Buick - Lucerne :: 2007 - Won't Start - Alternator / Battery?
May 15, 2016
My wife's 2007 Buick Lucerne wouldn't start the other day after sitting maybe 20 minutes with the headlights on. She had to call AAA for a jump start. It starts fine now. I took it to an autoparts store, the battery shows 90% life left. Brought it home, charged in 10 minutes using my car charger. My question is, what could cause the car not to start so easily? I am skeptical the battery was the culprit. How can I check the alternator, etc? Any other thoughts?
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Where is the horn relay for a 2007 Buick Lucerne?
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We have a 2008 Buick Lucerne. Now that the weather has become humid, we have been using the air conditioner more. We noticed that the carpet was wet on the rear passenger floor. Shortly after that, we noticed it on the driver rear floor. The dealer repair guys are puzzled and say it can't be the air conditioner as it would get the front passenger floor wet and not the back. They blamed on a luggage rack or sun roof (which we do not have!) or on the rain or car wash. We haven't been through the car wash and it hasn't rained here in over 3 weeks. What would cause this to occur and how do we fix it?
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I've seen posts about this problem online, but no one has listed a good fix. There seem to be LOTS of '06 Lucernes with back doors that won't open. It is not a child door lock issue as the customer has no kids needing such protection, and the door should open from the outside anyway.
I need to remove the inner door panel, but can't figure out how to do that with the door closed. Once the door panel is off, I can probably see what's going on inside, and maybe fix it.
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Installed new compressor, condenser, drier... Local shop wanted to charge $140 just to evac. Bought vacuum pump and gauges/hoses. Evaced the system, held -30 for 45 minutes. Started car and proceeded to add freon... Compressor would not engage. Low pressure showed 90lbs but would not take any more and compressor wouldn't engage...
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I have a 2006 Buick Lucerne. The wheels were losing chrome and were oxidizing. I just bought some new "Koenig Unknown" wheels for it. I took it to the local shop to have the new wheels put on And one of the tires had some bad scuffing on the sidewall. The mechanic said it was too much damage on the tire and that he could not mount it on the new rim. So, I took it home and did it myself.
The duct tape that I used under on the flat bar was not sufficient and I ended up putting some rather deep nicks on the edge of the new rim. Though you cannot see it them unless you look very close, I know that these digs can be sources of corrosion. The lip of the rims are a polished mirror-like aluminum finish. I am sure they have some clearcoat on them and that is what I have damaged. How I can fix them to prevent any corrosion from happening.
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I just put new rear air shocks on my Buick Lucerne. I noticed the back in my car bounced more than once when I tested them. After starting the car I hear the air compressor run for about five seconds. This seems to have no effect on my new shocks. The old shocks had holes in the bladder. What tests can I perform to figure out what's wrong?
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2006 Buick Lucerne... I have been experiencing this for about 12 months… But now I have new tires that have been balanced twice by two separate shops. I'm still getting a wobble from the right front at about 65 miles an hour. The original tire on the right front has outside wear about half way around the tire. It seems very strange… Half of the outside of the tire is down to the cord the other half has some tread remaining… It's like something is shaking it up and down…
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My wife's 2007 Buick Lucerne's directional signal is acting odd... When you turn it to the left-hand blinker, the pace is not the normal factory pace. After two or three cycle it then starts blinking on and off VERY quickly, like those blinkers you see on junkers periodically. The right blinker is normal pace as are the hazards lights. I am looking for potential causes before I bring it in for repair. I can't say anything trigger it, other than I noticed it after a car wash. Electrical problems are not my thing.
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I bought a one-owner, 50,000 mile Buick Lucerne in February. Yesterday I heard a squeaking noise from the steering wheel/column and it is there today. Does this mean I need to lubricate or replace the lower seal on the steering shaft?
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So my sister's 2007 Jeep Cherokee Laredo died, seems all the lights went haywire, it started to smell like something burning so she turned it off. I took a look at it, seems the battery went bad with a bad cell (sucker was pretty darn hot). I replaced it to find the negative battery cable sparked like crazy when I connected it and the alternator was smoking. I disconnected the battery. Looked to be some smoke damage on the alternator and the B+ post cover had completely melted. The cable harness & fusible link was fine although the wire sleeve was melted in places. I have replaced the alternator.
2 questions, could the battery failing cause the alternator to go; or could it be something else like the starter? Apparently the last few weeks the car was starting weirdly and driving odd until it warmed up.
Where can I get a insulating cap for my Jeep Cherokee? I tried the dealer and they wanted to sell me a whole new engine harness.
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I'm having a sudden turnover issue that appears as though it's the battery, but I'm not too sure now. I left work tonight (no problem), drove to a destination about 15min away, came back out in about the same amount time....Dead!
The headlights, dash, & gauges fluttered dimly on. Weird noises was coming from the radio & A/C. I turned back the key, cut the auto headlight thing off, and the A/C and radio off. Turned the key & slowly the dash came up bright, but still didn't have enough juice to turnover. Soon there afterwards, everything else seemed better, but just not starting.
I got a jump from this guy, drove 20mins home, cut the car off, and guess what?... Dead! What's the deal? Battery, Alternator...?
- 2007 Camry
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Over last two years have replaced a few alternators and (3?) batteries in my 2000 Solara SLE with 150,000 miles. However, In last three months I have had three additional alternators. Car wouldn't start, had it towed, and a mechanic put in new alternator and battery. Happens again, car won't start (now own a jump charger!), and the same mechanic puts in new alternator. Happens again and Mechanic #1 says he has checked it and its fine. I then go to my regular mechanic... Says its the alternator which is bad (when you put the AC and Radio on, it appears to charge for a while, but if you leave it running it will stop charging and then after a while it will go to overcharging and undercharging. I noticed when driving on highway my lights will brighten and dim).
He sends me back to the first mechanic because the alternator is bad. They put in a new alternator. I take it back to Mechanic #2 my regular mechanic to test it so I don't get stuck. He says its still doing the same thing. I tell him I will pay to have him put in the new alternator and he can own the warranty.... He sends me to a car electrical specialist. After having my car for 3 days the car electrical specialist just called and said in 30 years he has never given up but he has now. May or may not be related: My check engine light was coming on and I had mechanic put in new oxygen sensors. I also have intermittant traction light and ABS light coming on and the check engine light will sometimes come on too. My dash board feels like Christmas...
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So 3 times in the last 2 days, my car has needed a jump start. Took it to pepboys and they told me to replace the battery, a new battery later, my car wouldn't start again and I needed to get it jump started again. Took it back to pepboys, they say everything checks out fine including the battery and the alternator and that it should work fine. This happens to be exactly what they said the last time.
The car is a 2012 Ford Mustang V6 convertible.
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I have a a 2003 or 2004 Nissan Pathfinder (can't remember which at the moment). For the past few months, it's been having the same problem. One morning, I'll go out to start the car and the radio will have stopped working, but everything else is fine. A few days later, however, the car won't start in the morning. I'll jump it off, and the car and radio will be fine again for a few weeks. This doesn't last for long though.
Eventually, the radio will go out, and a few days later the car won't start again. I took it to my local mechanic and they tested the alternator/battery/ starter and said they were all fine, and that the battery cables just needed to be cleaned. After the cleanup, the car and radio worked fine for a few weeks...but sure enough, a few days ago, the radio went out. This morning I had to jump my car off again. What the real problem is? I'm taking it to the shop again today, but what else it could be...
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Last night, while my wife was driving, the battery light on her instrument panel started flashing. This morning the battery light came back on when she started the car. As she was driving on the highway, the ABS light, the stability light, and couple other lights came on, plus her she was losing power to her wheels. She said it then felt like the car was towing a heavy object and that there was no power going to the wheels or any other part of the car. She was able to drive it a few miles to a parking lot, where it died.
When she tried to restart it, she heard a clicking sound, but had no power and the engine was not turning over. She could not remote lock the doors because the all power was gone.
The tow truck driver tested the car and said the battery is fine, but that the alternator was dead. She had it towed to the dealer, who also says it is the alternator that is the problem.
This all occurred after we had a previous, and resolved issue, to the instrument panel (including the light around the cigarette lighter) and the taillights going out intermittently. The dealer disconnected the electrical connection to the towing package and the lights have stayed on since.
Seems odd to have an alternator go on a two-year old vehicle (we bought it new in Jan 2011). Could it actually be the alternator or something else?
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I went to start my 2006 F350 6.0 this morning. 20 degrees outside. It nearly turned over, then it appeared that the batteries would not support another start - a slowing of the pre-engine start revving....
So I let it sit a while, now it won't start at all. When I try to start it, the dashboard flashes, clicking sounds occur and even after pulling out the keys, the needles on the gauges shake for a few seconds.
Is this more a battery issue or an alternator issue?
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2009 Hyundai Accent w/~90k miles
The other day my car failed, showing all the signs of a bad alternator (battery light on, lights dimming/flickering, etc.).Had a mechanic look at it and it was definitely the alternator - the bracket had even broken - as well as the battery.After replacing, though, it still has a problem with charging the battery, at least on initial start.Basically, when you start the car, the battery light comes on immediately. Hit the accelerator or drive 15-20 feet and the battery light goes out and the alternator starts charging again.
The mechanic thinks it is a wiring problem and said that would cost 800+ to fix. He suggested I just live with it. Does his diagnosis seem correct? Are there other things I should look at and/or test?
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I bought a well-used 1991 Buick Century for my son in December '12. At that point I put in a battery that was bought brand new just the month before. The car ran fine until a couple weeks ago. He tried to start it but only got a slow crank, like a low battery. I tried to jump start it, with no difference. Since the car was at his school, I asked his auto shop teacher to take a look at it. The teacher tested the battery on two different machines and determined the battery was bad. I returned it to the store I bought it at, where it was tested as working fine. I then swapped the battery from my car for his, and his battery (the one that was tested bad) started my car with no problems while my battery would not start his car. It produced the same slow crank. I talked to the shop teacher again, who pulled the starter and took both the starter and the battery to various auto parts stores. The starter tested good, but the battery was tested bad at 3 shops, and weak at a fourth. So the car is still sitting at the school, and we're at a loss. What might be causing this problem and how can we get his car running again, short of just buying another car?
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My battery went dead so I replaced with new. This did not fix the problem so I replaced the alternator. It's working now but the battery light stays on. I think I still have a problem.
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2002 Ford Focus SE with 130k miles on it. For the past 4 months the battery light flashes randomly while driving. The flashing and frequency of flashing doesn't seem related to anything I can tell including temperature, length of time the car is running, speed or any variable. Seems like it should be an alternator, but that was replaced less than an year ago and it also has a new battery. The alternator always checks out fine at the mechanic and it will never flash for the mechanic. It went 1 month with no flashing and suddenly it will now flash maybe 20 times in a 5 mile drive. Yesterday it just died at a stoplight with no warning, but then after shutting everything off it started just fine and the battery light didn't turn on for the 2 miles to home.
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