Buick - Lucerne :: 2006 - How To Stop Any Corrosion From Occurring
May 23, 2015
I have a 2006 Buick Lucerne. The wheels were losing chrome and were oxidizing. I just bought some new "Koenig Unknown" wheels for it. I took it to the local shop to have the new wheels put on And one of the tires had some bad scuffing on the sidewall. The mechanic said it was too much damage on the tire and that he could not mount it on the new rim. So, I took it home and did it myself.
The duct tape that I used under on the flat bar was not sufficient and I ended up putting some rather deep nicks on the edge of the new rim. Though you cannot see it them unless you look very close, I know that these digs can be sources of corrosion. The lip of the rims are a polished mirror-like aluminum finish. I am sure they have some clearcoat on them and that is what I have damaged. How I can fix them to prevent any corrosion from happening.
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I've seen posts about this problem online, but no one has listed a good fix. There seem to be LOTS of '06 Lucernes with back doors that won't open. It is not a child door lock issue as the customer has no kids needing such protection, and the door should open from the outside anyway.
I need to remove the inner door panel, but can't figure out how to do that with the door closed. Once the door panel is off, I can probably see what's going on inside, and maybe fix it.
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2006 Buick Lucerne... I have been experiencing this for about 12 months… But now I have new tires that have been balanced twice by two separate shops. I'm still getting a wobble from the right front at about 65 miles an hour. The original tire on the right front has outside wear about half way around the tire. It seems very strange… Half of the outside of the tire is down to the cord the other half has some tread remaining… It's like something is shaking it up and down…
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I bought a one-owner, 50,000 mile Buick Lucerne in February. Yesterday I heard a squeaking noise from the steering wheel/column and it is there today. Does this mean I need to lubricate or replace the lower seal on the steering shaft?
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We have a 2008 Buick Lucerne. Now that the weather has become humid, we have been using the air conditioner more. We noticed that the carpet was wet on the rear passenger floor. Shortly after that, we noticed it on the driver rear floor. The dealer repair guys are puzzled and say it can't be the air conditioner as it would get the front passenger floor wet and not the back. They blamed on a luggage rack or sun roof (which we do not have!) or on the rain or car wash. We haven't been through the car wash and it hasn't rained here in over 3 weeks. What would cause this to occur and how do we fix it?
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Where is the horn relay for a 2007 Buick Lucerne?
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Installed new compressor, condenser, drier... Local shop wanted to charge $140 just to evac. Bought vacuum pump and gauges/hoses. Evaced the system, held -30 for 45 minutes. Started car and proceeded to add freon... Compressor would not engage. Low pressure showed 90lbs but would not take any more and compressor wouldn't engage...
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I just put new rear air shocks on my Buick Lucerne. I noticed the back in my car bounced more than once when I tested them. After starting the car I hear the air compressor run for about five seconds. This seems to have no effect on my new shocks. The old shocks had holes in the bladder. What tests can I perform to figure out what's wrong?
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My wife's 2007 Buick Lucerne wouldn't start the other day after sitting maybe 20 minutes with the headlights on. She had to call AAA for a jump start. It starts fine now. I took it to an autoparts store, the battery shows 90% life left. Brought it home, charged in 10 minutes using my car charger. My question is, what could cause the car not to start so easily? I am skeptical the battery was the culprit. How can I check the alternator, etc? Any other thoughts?
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My wife's 2007 Buick Lucerne's directional signal is acting odd... When you turn it to the left-hand blinker, the pace is not the normal factory pace. After two or three cycle it then starts blinking on and off VERY quickly, like those blinkers you see on junkers periodically. The right blinker is normal pace as are the hazards lights. I am looking for potential causes before I bring it in for repair. I can't say anything trigger it, other than I noticed it after a car wash. Electrical problems are not my thing.
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I have a 2005 Impala with the 3.4 engine and 118,000 miles. About 2 years ago I had a code P0141 and since we didn't know for sure which oxygen sensor was out we replaced both of them. The P0141 code did not stop occurring after both sensors were changed. I read on an Impala forum that if you didn't replace the sensors with AC Delco the codes would continue so I didn't worry about it until my gas mileage starting going down recently. I ordered new AC Delco oxygen sensors and my husband replaced them Saturday, the old ones were sooted up pretty badly. Today a new code appeared, it is P0140, O2 sensor circuit no activity. What the problem might be now.
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I have a 06 Klavier lack v8 with the same problem and VW corporate is supposed to come and "evaluate" this this month. today i noticed more of the same on the underside lip of the trunk, not far from where the button to close it is. why would you get that in that spot? it is never exposed to the environment. I'm really concerned because i don't know who can repaint the door and trunk so it will match the piano finish.
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My '98 Buick's AC works well when I take it to a mechanic. But when I leave after they say, 'it seems fine now,' a few miles later the cold air starts blowing through the defroster vents, still nice and cold. Then it comes back down to the dash and then goes back up to the defrost. But sometimes it stops blowing altogether, it doesn't blow anywhere! Nothing, not even warm air. And then later everything is fine again, until it happens all over again and I take it to another shop when I hear 'it seems fine now.'.
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1995 Buick Regal, 128k miles, 3.8L V-6.Problem: When running errands around town, car will temporarily not start after 3rd or 4th stop. Vehicle cranks, has spark, has fuel pressure at fuel manifold. No codes on computer (Wish it was a '96). Car will start normally after cooling off (generally takes at least 45 minutes). No problem driving to work, parking all day, driving home. Have not tried long distance driving since problem arose, due to concern about being stuck for awhile far from home. Have determined at EGR valve is NOT a part of problem.
Sample situation: Drove 5 miles to town. Shopped for 15 minutes. Drove 2 miles further with 5 minute stop. Drove another 2 miles with 5 minute stop. Drove 1 more mile and stopped for 30-40 minutes. Car would not start. Cranks strongly, has spark and fuel pressure (don't know if fuel getting to injectors). Still would not start 30 minutes later. Left car for several hours. Started promptly and ran normally on return. Weather conditions - 90 F, low humidity. Problem has been occurring for several months. No computer codes to dive guidance.
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My problem is my 6 CL died going down the road I got to stop light & she quitly died. I got it started after a few tries & made it to BK, kept trying to start sounded like choked for gas. Hour later starts goes 1/2 mil dies call towtrk. Changed fuel pump(not so bad) fired her up, first couple times ran a sec. and died.
3rd time a charm it started & idled (a lttl ruf) for 20 min.& wife takes it to gas station shut off & restarted no problem & back home. 1 hr later I get in to run an errand & it dies I push it hm pop hood seems awfully hot. Is there a way to test the CPS unit?
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Last November my car began stalling while idling at stop lights. It didn't happen all the time, just occasionally. The car would start back up without too much difficulty. I took it to a GM dealer who cleaned the throttle body and decarburized the intake and exhaust valves. They also removed an aftermarket security system which had been installed by the previous owner which they claimed may have interfered electrically with the engine. They reported a history of code P0128 (thermostat sticking open) being stored in the ECM. I did not have the thermostat replaced.
The work the dealer performed did not resolve the issue. During the winter, I've been letting the car warm-up for a few minutes before driving. While warming up, the rpms will sometimes increase or decrease 200-300 rpm then return to normal idling a few seconds later. Sometimes when the rpms dip down low enough, the engine sputters and either recovers or stalls. On most days I don't have any issues and the car runs fine. The check engine light sometimes comes on while this happens, and sometimes it doesn't.
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I am having some trouble with my 02 Buick recently. The acceleration from a stop is very sluggish and gear changes come slowly, although they still seem to shift smoothly. The first thing I did was check the fluid levels and I can find nothing wrong there. The trans fluid was last changed 3 years ago, but the level, color, and smell are all normal so surely that couldn't be the culprit ?Unfortunately, that about exhausts my diagnostic skill.
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1998 buick regal gs. My problem is when i throw my turn signal on at a stop or coming to a stop the car completely shuts off. Also now I have the problem with when that occurs I try to start it and now it won't do anything! Then once started the brake light and the anti lock light with the trac light is on and wont let me move the gear shifter out of park!
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I have a 2003 Buick Park Avenue with the 3.8L V6, not supercharged. If the pressure control solenoid on the 4T65E transmission can be changed through the pan? I ask because I get hard shifting if the car is running in stop and go traffic where the engine cooling fans are starting to cycle. Simply shutting the car off and immediately restarting clears the hard shifting. Otherwise the transmission shifts smoothly. Searching the internet suggests the PCS is getting tired. I wouldn't mind throwing a $50 part in as an attempt to cure this issue if the average Joe can swap it out.
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My 1992 Buick Century frequently shuts down when coming to a stop or slowing down to make a sharp corner. I'm always able to restart it. I thought it was a torque converter lockup problem, but my transmission specialist said the transmission is okay. Last month, after the car died completely, I had the crankshaft sensor and harmonic balancer replaced by Firestone. Could it be the same parts that malfunctioned? Or, could it be another issue?
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I have a 1988 Buick PA Electra. Car idles rough and shaky at a stop light. When warmed up service engine light comes on for a few seconds then goes off. I've changed ignition coil box, wires, plugs, ignition module, fuel injectors, fuel filter. It seems like there may be a vacuum leak. Car has only 114,000 miles on it and I don't want to give up on her. Before this she was running smooth.
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