I am having problems with with the rear defroster and the a/c in my '98 Buick Lesabre, they went out at the same time, and I checked the fuses in the fuse box, and the meter says they are all good, the fan motor isn't running either, and I think that they are all tied together.
View 14 RepliesI have a '98 Buick LeSabre, 112,000 miles and it's white. When I put the ignition key in and turn it without starting it completely I get a humming noise coming from the rear of the car. It lasts about 5 seconds and stops. When I start the car it begins again and continues all the time I'm driving. A friend suggested it might be the fuel pump.
View 1 RepliesWhere is the relay box for turn and hazard signals in 98 Buick LeSabre custom? my hazards ans signals don't work switched fuses but didn't work. Where the box is I've never owned a Buick til now. there isn't one under the hood just the main on the driver's side.
View 1 RepliesMy '98 Buick's AC works well when I take it to a mechanic. But when I leave after they say, 'it seems fine now,' a few miles later the cold air starts blowing through the defroster vents, still nice and cold. Then it comes back down to the dash and then goes back up to the defrost. But sometimes it stops blowing altogether, it doesn't blow anywhere! Nothing, not even warm air. And then later everything is fine again, until it happens all over again and I take it to another shop when I hear 'it seems fine now.'.
View 2 RepliesMy wife's 98 LeSabre will occasionally cut out or stall. It usually happens at low speeds and she thinks it may be more frequently on a right hand turn. The engine can always be restarted immediately. There is no other symptom, no check engine light on when running. The car runs well and has ~125000 miles. Sounds like an intermittent connection or short but where?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1998 Buick lesaber it ran hot the other day [temp light came on] do I pulled in to gastation and the overflow tank was empty I filled it to the hot line and ran it for a few minutes light went off drove 8 blocks to my house let it cool down and opens the radiator cap no coolant. I checked the overflow tank empty too. So I got some coolant from my garage and poured it into the radiator as I was pouring it started to leak out somewhere on the upper passenger side of the engine under the plastic noise cover and behind the pulleys. This happened while the car was not running. It's my family's only car so I can't tear it apart until the weekend but where to start or what parts to have on hand.
View 9 RepliesI am currently driving a 98 Buick with the 3.8 V6 and 120,000 on the clock. The car runs 100%, and its paid for
My problem is I seem to be losing coolant, at the rate of about the entire overflow in 2 weeks (I only drive on avg 15-20 miles a day). The problem is I have no leaks. I even went so far as to pull the spark plugs and they all looked good (none of them looked "steam cleaned"). I put florescent dye into the rad, and I can’t find a drop of coolant anywhere. The intake gaskets have already been done on this car, and I triple checked around it with the die.
Rad, and hoses all check out, no dye in the oil, no dye at the heater core/AC drain under the car, the core plugs are fine, around the head gaskets seem fine as well.. I CANT FIGURE THIS OUT !! I am 100% losing coolant, but I can’t find hide nor hair of it..
I know I can keep adding coolant, but I like my cars as leak free as possible and if it is something bad, I want to know about it now not later.
My dad has a 98 Buick La Sabre that will shut off at times. It once shut off as he was turning on the air cond. last summer. Right after it stalled and would not start he attempted to open the windows but they would not work. After a few hours and cooling off it started and the windows worked again. He took it to a shop who said it was the map sensor. They changed it but the problem happened again a few weeks after. The fuel pump has recently been changed along with the fuel filter.
One mechanic suggested it could be the ignition control modular or knock sensor. He recently got a different car so I an going to test drive it for a while. If it shuts down I will test for spark to confirm it is not a fuel problem. I will also try swooping relays to see if that is not the problem. I will be cleaning all the connections I can find with contact cleaner as it can't hurt.
What could be the problem. Could it be a short, a bad wire that once it gets to much of a load on it cuts the engine off?
Engine light won't go off - printout says it's running lean - replaced mass airflow sensor, upper & lower O2 sensors, spark plugs, wires and coils. What else I need to do to get the light to go out so it'll pass inspection?
View 4 RepliesI have an old 98 Lesabre, and it runs and drives great. When I first got it I had to do the Vacuum line mod on the programmer to get the HVAC to blow out the face vents. That was the best $1.60 and 30 min I spent on a car
That mod still works and was done about 1.5 years ago, the ENTIRE time i have owned the car the temp blinks when I start the car, but the HVAC has always worked fine so I paid no attention to it. That is until 3 weeks ago when I had to replace my intake manifold. I disconnected the battery without turning the system to "off". I have been doing a bunch of reading online, and it seems I may have thrown the system's sync off by doing this.
Right now my problem is this, colder air coming from the pass side then the driver’s side. When I start the car it will seem synched for a few seconds, then it will start blinking and both vents will go FULL COLD, eventually it brings the temp back up the d-side gets hotter than the p-side. I have done the following:
- gone through AT LEAST 50 on/off cycles
- Removed the 9c fuse to try to reset
- Pulled down the glove box door and watched both the upper and lower blend doors go through there whole range of movement (which they do)
- Tried to re-sync by pushing the temp full hot, then full cold a few times in a row.
Besides getting this scanned by a tech 2, which is my last resort, is there anything else I can do?
1997 buick lesabre, 4 door, v6. It was having problem stalling out. This weekend a friend and I lifted the car and replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump. Drove great Saturday and Sunday. Today I get in the car, starts up without a hitch. I start heading down my street and realize I am having to push my brake pedal in ALL THE WAY to get it to stop and even then it's slow to stop. So I back up, pull the hood and check the brake fluid. Sure enough, it's low, so I run to Advance, grab some fluid and fill it up the max line and think i'm ok. Start the car up, pump the brakes a few time and notice nothing new. I get out and realize I have a very steady leak in front of the right rear wheel of fluid. It's a steady drip in two places. Is there something I could have done to have caused this. The only line we messed with on Saturday was the emergency brake line and it's clearly working (I tested it).
View 1 Repliesso I have a 2010 Camry and I'm 99% certain the rear defroster doesn't work. I came from a 2000 Camry where, upon pressing the rear defrost button, the rear window would clear up within like 5 minutes (literally-- that thing was fast), but my 2010 Camry doesn't do that.
I drove for about 15 minutes last night and saw no change whatsoever. The orange LED lights up when I press the button (and stays lit) for the rear defroster, but I'm not seeing any results.
Is there a fuse I should check? the orange LED comes on and stays on when I press that button, but I'm pretty sure nothing's happening. This is the only problem thing I've ever noticed that's wrong with my car.
Got our 2012 package 5 lesss than a month ago, so we haven't had much opportunity to use the rear defroster. The two times I have used it I noticed that it works well on the upper rear window, but the glass below the rear spoiler doesn't seem to be clearing. The red/orange "wires" are visible in the glass, but don't appear to do anything. Wasn't planning to head back to the dealer until first service since we haven't had any other problems, but this could be annoying with the winter weather.
View 7 RepliesFor the second time in the last 24 months, my rear defroster doesn't seem to be working. The first time I took it into the dealer and under warranty, they had to replace the entire rear window. The side view mirror defrosters still worked and they still work now. It just seems that the rear isn't working again and this time my warranty has run out.
Should I take it back to the dealer and hope they honor their work? My 3yr/36k expired 4 months ago. How could I even test that it is working? I've only had to use it 2 or 3x since last Feb. and that's when I noticed it doesn't seem to be working. I only had to use it for short trips so the main defroster in the cab eventually defrosted the rear window. The weather is warmer so now I won't have as many chances to have it fogged up.
i have prius 2004 yesterday the rear defroster stopped and not working while the key on steering wheel and the yallow light indicator works very well and mirror defroster also working well, this case it become yesterday but before that it was working as usual.
View 1 RepliesA couple of days ago I noticed that one of the elements in the upper rear window defogger/defroster isn't working. It's the fifth one from the bottom I believe. All the other elements on the top and bottom seem to be working correctly. Is there a way to correct this without taking it to the dealer?
View 2 Replies2011 F350 with the rear window defroster not working on the slider window, just the glass that slides.
I had them look at when it was in for other warranty work and the dealership says it is not covered by the ESP. I looked up the ESP and it states that it covers heated back glass(electrical only). The dealership says it is considered glass and it isn't covered. If it was the outer sides of the back window it wouldn't bother me, but it is the center piece.
I had it looked at a while back when the truck was in for different warranty work and they supposedly fixed it, it was never fixed but I just thought I would get it fixed next time I was in there instead of just going in for that. Last time I was there I was under the 60K mile warranty and it is covered under that, but not the ESP supposedly. Bad dealership or just live with it?
I have a couple of things going on with my 2014 Toyota Camry. My car was in a recent rear end collision and I noticed the other day that my rear window defroster is no longer working. I waited 15 to 20 minutes and still nothing. The side mirror defrosters work fine. One button turns on both my rear and side mirror defrosters. The extent of the rear damage did not go past the trunk lid. They did replace the lid, but I'm not sure why that would make a difference. The rear window was not replaced. There was also some quarter panel damage underneath that required welding. It was working fine before the body work and now it's not working. Would could be the likely cause? I'd rather fix it myself if it's quick, rather than spending time taking it back tot he body shop.
The other problem...I was on a road that had a drop off on my passenger side. The lane slightly narrowed for some odd reason for just for a few feet. The front right side tire went off road and the front of my car hit the pavement pretty hard. I couldn't see any damage underneath, but of course that doesn't mean there isn't any. When I was driving to work this morning I could hear a humming noise that only got louder as I drove faster. It wasn't a continuous hum. You could hear a break in between hums but the breaks were more frequent the faster I drove. I'm not too sure what that is either? A wheel bearing?
The horn on the vehicle is not working. The fuse and relay have both been tested and replaced. The horn itself does work when connected in an alternate method. Trying to find wiring from steering column to horn to determine issue. Any wiring diagram that shows color of horn wire from steering column and route it takes
View 1 RepliesThe following have stopped working (at the same time if I remember correctly): power door locks, power mirrors, power trunk release and rear defroster. We are also getting a tire pressure fault warning when the tire pressure is ok. As far as other items located on the drivers door, the power seat adjustment and power windows are still working. I checked every fuse in the interior box and the the rely ant fuses unde the hood. I exchanged the big, square, grey fuse for the rear defroster with the one for the starter and still no luck with that issue.
View 5 RepliesCurrently I have a 1998 Buick Century Custom having turn signal issues.
The front left blinker is not blinking. Understandably, with this malfunction, the rear left blinker blinks rapidly when the turn signal switch is in the left turn signal position. However, when I put the hazard lights on, BOTH rear blinkers blink normally as does the front right blinker.
When the headlights are on, the amber-colored blinker bulb remains lit (left front). The right side front and rear blinkers work great.
I have checked the fuses, replaced the bulb and cleaned the socket of the front left blinker and still have no results. While my next guess would be that the flasher unit is the problem, I don't believe the rear, or front right blinkers would blink if that was the problem.