I have a 2000 LeSabre and every time you start the car and then push the gas pedal down it's hard to push, then it will break free and work normally for the rest of the drive, but the next time you get in to go somewhere else, it will do the same thing. If you "POP IT" real quick with your foot it will work just fine until the next time. Is this a cable issue?
View 6 RepliesBeen having trouble shifting into any gears on these chilly mornings in VA now... The clutch has been sticking on its way out when I release it and the gears don't want to engage unless I really push hard on the shift knob.
View 11 RepliesMy brake pedal needs to be practically be pushed to the floor for the car to stop. I went to a Munro Muffler and they replaced all brake pads and turned the rotors. The problem of the pedal to the floor did not go away. The Munro tech struggled with this then popped me with this estimate - brake lines master cylinder to ABS / brake lines ABS to front brake flex hoses connections, / brake lines - ABS to rear junctions fittings at the passenger front door. Also they want to sell me a rear wheel bearing because the temperature at one point was very high. The total estimate is $840. I can remove the Rear wheel bearing to bring the estimate down to 500. I asked if we could do lines from ABS to Master Cylinder only and the tech advised against it. I feel like I am about to get ripped off and am going for a second opinion.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2000 Buick Lesabre with 226k and my parking/E-brake annoys me. The brake isn't stuck or anything, but the pedal doesn't come back all the way, at least not enough to turn off the brake light or accompanying dinging. Most of the time, the cable is disconnected from the pedal to keep the light and dinging off unless I have to use it. Is there any way to adjust the parking brake to get the pedal to fully return or is there something else wrong with the system?
View 19 RepliesMy car recently started running overtemp not much, but enough to bother me. I flushed the system with no change. after about a week with continued symptoms, my trans started shifting hard between 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd, and running rough in general, sputtering lightly in high gear. I assumed it was running over temp with the rest of the car, so I replaced the radiator and the radiator cap, yet still am having the same problem. Is it still related to the cooling system? if I replace the water pump will i solve my problems, or is it really a hidden trans problem? I'm fairly certain the trans has never been serviced, and I'm reluctant to do so given the high milage, 174,000. The fluid is full, but its very thin, and no longer red, its sort of a pale yellow.
View 19 RepliesI have the limited with the push start. In order to start the car, you have to push the brake in so far and then push the push button. Lately the brake pedal is really hard to push down after its been sitting for an extended period. Once its started, all is fine. Its almost like I've pumped it a few times first, but its not the case.
View 11 Replies1996 Jaguar XJ6 4.0 Litre Base, 43000 miles... While driving, this car, suddenly accelerator pedal becomes very hard to push and car will not move at all even if you press hard pedal to the floor( Requires a lots of force). If I put brakes on, shift the transmission to reverse and to then to drive, it will start moving again. No check engine light comes on and there are no codes stored in computer. This never happens on cruise control. Car starts flawlessly even on cold morning. Battery is new and charging system works fine. Spark plugs were changed at 30,000 miles so also direct ignition coil on cylinder No.3 .....
View 3 RepliesI've been noticing severe power loss lately . I know the 12 camry i4 has a bit of lag when acceleration but it's a bit worse now . I do have weapon r header , injen intake and magna flow muffler. I've cleaned the intake filter but sometimes the car feels as though it doesn't want to go then it does. I have to push the pedal down hard . I also have res delete.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2001 F-350 Diesel 4x4 crew cab 8ft bed dually 7.3 diesel 6 speed. The issue is that the parking brake pedal is extremely hard to push. One day it pushed down and ratcheted into a locked position as normal and the next day I couldn't push it more than an inch down. I have rear disc brakes with internal drums in the rotors for the parking brake assembly. I replaced the shoes and hardware (which were fine) and I still have the same issue. I removed the front single cable from where it splits into the two rear ones and the foot pedal depresses smoothly and with the touch of a finger with no load on it. What else is it? The only other thing is one of the rear cables unless I am missing something?
View 5 RepliesI have recently noticed that my car will stall out when I get up to about 20 mph. My car starts fine, no check engine light on. I has a tendency to just die in the middle of the road at times too. I have changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, and a new fuel filter. Do I need to change the mass air flow sensor? Or the crank position sensor? I have no problems starting the car either. Runs good when it runs.
View 10 RepliesWhere is the relay box for turn and hazard signals in 98 Buick LeSabre custom? my hazards ans signals don't work switched fuses but didn't work. Where the box is I've never owned a Buick til now. there isn't one under the hood just the main on the driver's side.
View 1 Replies1996 buick lesabre custom 3800. The car stalls from time to time, and the fuel pump, power windows, power seats, and power mirrors all stop working. Most people who have had this problem cleaned the ground bus on the drivers side under the carpet. I have done this, and the car has not stalled yet, but I haven't driven it far because I have noticed the fuel pump relay and power windows relay are getting extremely hot to the touch after 5 minutes or so of driving. Why these relays are getting so hot? I cannot afford to keep getting the car towed home.
View 1 RepliesMy 2001 Buick Lesabre has always shown to run exactly normal on the temperature dash unit until recently. I checked my coolant level and it was a bit low, so I added. After I filled the radiator I have noticed a coolant leak spot on my driveway, after I drive it now. I have removed the gravel shield and have tried to pin point exactly where the leak is coming from, but cannot. Now, each time I park, after driving it, I put a clean piece of cardboard under it to try to see exactly what area the leak is coming from. Last night I put the car on ramps and crawled under to discover that the leak is located just above the oil filter and is actually dripping from the oil filter, but I still cannot see the exact location of the leak.Actually the leak does not appear until about an hour after I park the car, so it sounds like something is contracting after the engine has cooled off, but what? The leak has seemed to be getting worse each time I drive the car. How can I determine exactly where the leak is coming from without just changing a bunch of parts.
View 10 RepliesI currently have no brake fluid in my car because it keeps leaking out (leaks while actively being used). The leak is between the power brake booster and the brake master cylinder... Is there any type of gasket I can get to better fill the gap between the two pieces of metal? Is there some way to tell which of the two pieces is creating the leak to narrow down which to purchase?
View 1 RepliesMy car would not start yesterday, and I realized the fuel pump was not running. So I bought a new fuel pump today and put it on, the car still won't start, the fuel pump still does not run and I have been told to check the relay. I cannot find the relay for this car.
View 7 RepliesI have a 1995 buick Lasbre and my engine light is on my car would cut off every once and a while. but when it does it cranks right back up like its a sortage in the wires people say it is an electrical problem i thought it was my crank sensor but my car has never had a problem cranking up it sounds wonderful when it cranks up so whats my problem....
View 3 RepliesMy '98 Buick's AC works well when I take it to a mechanic. But when I leave after they say, 'it seems fine now,' a few miles later the cold air starts blowing through the defroster vents, still nice and cold. Then it comes back down to the dash and then goes back up to the defrost. But sometimes it stops blowing altogether, it doesn't blow anywhere! Nothing, not even warm air. And then later everything is fine again, until it happens all over again and I take it to another shop when I hear 'it seems fine now.'.
View 2 RepliesI have been to a few different repair shops for my 2000 Buick Le Sabre shimmy problem with no luck. I have a really bad shimmy, while accelerating between 45 and 50 mph, and it seems worse on an upgrade. Past 50 mph, it smooths out. Over the past several months, mechanics have checked the balance of my tires and rotated them, done front end alignment, rear alignment, replaced the right lower control arm, the right sway bar link and the right wheel hub. Still no luck, so it came down to the determination that it must be a bad tire. Now I have 4 new tires (it was soon time to get them anyway), and I still have the shimmy. What else can we look for? My local mechanics seems stumped. I have not taken it to a Buick dealership, however...
View 9 RepliesDriving my car over the week-end and experienced a lot of hesitation when I stepped on the gas. The car seemed to delay in kicking in to the next gear.I stopped and checked my transmission oil and realized I didn't have much transmission fluid, practically none. So, I added a quart. My question is what should I do now. I know it probably doesn't have enough but I don't know how much to put in. Or should I just have it changed?
View 12 RepliesI have a 2002 Buick LeSabre. Back information is this. the car has had a coolant leak for years, very slow though. Last night while working (I drive for a living) the thermostat climbed up to hot and then immediately went back down to the middle range where it normally goes, so I thought I was fine. It then climbed back up and staled out. It started again nearly immediately and I made it back to my work. About 30 minutes later I began to drive home. The temperature gauge started to climb up again, and then immediately went back to normal running temperature. I kept an eye on it.
About 2 minutes later it shut off completely. I had dash lights, head lights, and emergency flashers. Trying to restart it killed my battery and I had it towed home. This morning I put water in it (it was a gallon low even though I had filled it three days prior). I got a jump start but the car wouldn't start. It cranked and cranked but would not start. I did notice a leak of water from near the bottom of the engine. I am curious as to what the problem may be and why it is not starting now.
Where is the PCV valve is located?
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