Buick - LeSabre :: 2004 - Hesitates While Shifting Between Gears?
Feb 10, 2014
Our 2004 LeSabre has the following symptoms - there's a clicking that occurs whenever the car is in motion, the car occasionally hesitates/bucks when shifting between gears (but not always), the radio sometimes does not go off when the keys are taken out of the ignition, we're losing about a quart of oil about every 2500 miles but there is no sign of a leak on the ground, we also seem to have reduced mileage (using more gas).
In this corner, Mechanic 1 (high price) - replace front lower control arms, sway bar, and bushing, front end alignment, throttle body gasket and EGR tube, oil pan gasket replacement, ignition switch replacement, brake fluid and coolant flush. $1900
In the other corner, Mechanic 2 (low price) thinks it's just the spark plugs and wires that need to be replaced, the wires, replace air and fuel filter, and PCV valve - $450
We had the oil changed about 2500 miles ago, replaced the air filter then. The oil change place suggested a coolant and brake fluid flush. I've used mechanic 1 in the past and they have replaced my head gaskets a couple of times and I suspect they are ripping me off.
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After I start my Lesabre when cold, after about 15 minutes or so it starts idling high, usually about 1500 , but sometimes it's as high as 2300 while stopped at a light. And a few times it has been 3-4000 rpm after putting it into PARK. After it starts idling high it starts shifting late. If you shut the engine off and immediately restart it, it usually starts idling fine again temporarily. Engine has normal power and runs smooth and idles smooth. It has also randomly died a couple times while driving at 30-40mph but then immediately restarted as if there was no problem.
It has a P0121 code which is "throttle position sensor switch A circuit range/performance problem". It also has a P0420, "Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) ", which I'm not sure is related to the issue because the check engine light had been on a long time before the idling/shifting issue started happening. Like in the neighborhood of a year and a half before the current issue, but it ran fine the entire time and got 30+mpg on the highway.
First thing I did to troubleshoot was to test the TPS and it seemed ok. Voltmeter readings were .4v with throttle closed and seemed to advance smoothly up to 4.4v at WOT. But, I tested it before the engine was hot and I don't have a Oscope. I then used some carb cleaner and shot it around the injectors and a few vacuum inlets to check for vacuum leaks, to no effect. Engine runs quiet and I don't really hear any vac leaks.
Next, I cleaned the idle air control valve which was pretty dang dirty, but that didn't seem to resolve the issue, although it may have had a slight effect because the issue seems to come and go some while driving now, but I'm not totally sure. I also tested the connector at the IAC and had voltage on all 4 pins between .4v - 11.4v approximately.
Lastly, I got the engine to reproduce the problem and then pulled and then reconnected these sensors one at a time while the engine was idling high:
MAF Sensor
TPS
IAC
Intake Air Temp Sensor
This didn't have the slightest effect on the engine... I'm thinking it might actually be the TPS or IAC but I don't want to just start replacing stuff without knowing damn near certain it's going to resolve the issue. Could a vehicle speed sensor cause this? How I should proceed from here? :?
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, My 1997 Buick Lesabre transmission slips at random when I shift into overdrive. I have my mechanics look at the transmission and have them drive the car to recreate the problem and what do you know the car doesn't do it. I made a post about this problem a while back and it wasn't the A/C that was the problem. I do not drive fast in the car and I checked the Transmission dipstick and the fluid is still red and at the full mark. I brought my car to Auto zone to check the codes but all i get is a loose gas cap.
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My car recently started running overtemp not much, but enough to bother me. I flushed the system with no change. after about a week with continued symptoms, my trans started shifting hard between 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd, and running rough in general, sputtering lightly in high gear. I assumed it was running over temp with the rest of the car, so I replaced the radiator and the radiator cap, yet still am having the same problem. Is it still related to the cooling system? if I replace the water pump will i solve my problems, or is it really a hidden trans problem? I'm fairly certain the trans has never been serviced, and I'm reluctant to do so given the high milage, 174,000. The fluid is full, but its very thin, and no longer red, its sort of a pale yellow.
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Issues with the transmission in the 2000 Century. My car shifts perfectly fine cold, but once it warms up it shits hard between all gears. Downshifts are never an issue, just up shifts. To me this sounds like both shift solenoids may be sticking or shot... I have already drained the fluid and changed the filter, added lucas tranny stop-slip, drained that out and replaced fluids again... no codes to go by and no high revs before shifts when accelerating...
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Driving my car over the week-end and experienced a lot of hesitation when I stepped on the gas. The car seemed to delay in kicking in to the next gear.I stopped and checked my transmission oil and realized I didn't have much transmission fluid, practically none. So, I added a quart. My question is what should I do now. I know it probably doesn't have enough but I don't know how much to put in. Or should I just have it changed?
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I have come to understand that Buick LeSabres are known for their issues with their ignition modules but I'm trying to figure out the root to the problem. I have an '04 LeSabre 'Custom'. I have had all of the coils and wires replaced and the ignition module. I had to replace some of the coils and ignition module twice since. I can already feel it going again.
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When I turn on my a/c I get a constant clicking noise. Very annoying.
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I have a 2004 buick lesabre that last year had the steering wheel harness replaced (left blinker issues and then just total car dying while driving). This year, the right signal light blew out, along with the low beam light. When I replaced them, the low beam light was very faint, and the signal light worked (till the next morning for the low beam light and till I closed the hood). So fiddled with the signal light, it works- but now the right signal blinker works but not the marker light and still can not get the low beam to work again.
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My son in law's 2004 F150 had been having a random hesitation and dieing on light acceleration. Now it is every time he drives it.Here is the scenario. After taking off from a stop, with light acceleration, when speed reaches 22 mph in drive, it is like you turn the key off,,,except all the gauges still work,radio air all electrical seems to stay on,BUT the indication lights on the dash and the small red anti theft dash light for the security function comes on. If you try to continue accelerating, the truck will die, but if you let off on the gas and then continue to accelerate all is well.
I tried starting off in 2nd thinking it is a transmission problem same scenario except truck did get up to 29mph before experiencing the dieing issue. Tried starting off with Overdrive disengaged, same problem. The truck is throwing no DTC codes and Ford says unless it throws a code, they can't work on it. Truck runs great at highway speeds . My son in law says that if the truck does die,(by trying to force acceleration) he has to stop, and put the truck in neutral or park, and then it will restart. I have checked all connections at the transmission, rear end and all sensors/controls, but no solution. We are getting desperate and don' t know what else to check. It has the 5.4 engine.
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Is it normal to feel resistance and binding of gears when shifting into L or H, when regular shifter is in neutral? One Lexus dealer technician said no, a different Lexus dealer said yes, and a 20-year private transmission shop technician said yes; the "yes" technicians said its because the gears are not synchronized and will grind and bind a little when shifting into L or H on the 4 wheel drive shifter. Car is a 2007 GX 470 and runs great.
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My 2004 Forester (73000 miles) with 5-speed manual, is sometimes hard shifting into gears. The Subaru agency says that there's 'not much left' on the clutch and I need a new clutch @ $1300. Does hard shifting , no clutch slipping, indicate new clutch is necessary?
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was diriving my toy1and was shifting from 3rd to 4th when the rpm reved up and the car would not take any gears to drive foword or revers my gears when you shift are engagging but no mvement also i dont have to push the clutch in to shift it will go with out clutching.
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Every so often, my manual transmission Corolla will "overthrottle" during acceleration, especially shifting into 2nd and 3rd gears (and sometimes even 4th), i.e., the engine will race above the usual RPMs associated with each gear, just for a bit. This however, isn't consistent. I still need to check if the engine air filter is dirty, which I suspect could be a part of the issue.
The vehicle has ca. 124,975mi, and only started exhibiting this problem 2-3 months ago, and only in 2nd gear. Again, this issue is very intermittent, and sometimes I can go a week or two without any incidents at all. The regular maintenance (oil changes, cooling system maintenance, etc.) has been faithfully performed according the manufacturer's specifications.
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2006 GX470, ~65k mi. When shifting from P to R, P to D, or R to D, the transmission often (but not always) seems to have to think about it a while. When it shifts fine it takes about 1sec for the transmission to change gears. When it's being cranky it takes ~4secs. There are no other symptoms.
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I have recently noticed that my car will stall out when I get up to about 20 mph. My car starts fine, no check engine light on. I has a tendency to just die in the middle of the road at times too. I have changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, and a new fuel filter. Do I need to change the mass air flow sensor? Or the crank position sensor? I have no problems starting the car either. Runs good when it runs.
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Where is the relay box for turn and hazard signals in 98 Buick LeSabre custom? my hazards ans signals don't work switched fuses but didn't work. Where the box is I've never owned a Buick til now. there isn't one under the hood just the main on the driver's side.
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1996 buick lesabre custom 3800. The car stalls from time to time, and the fuel pump, power windows, power seats, and power mirrors all stop working. Most people who have had this problem cleaned the ground bus on the drivers side under the carpet. I have done this, and the car has not stalled yet, but I haven't driven it far because I have noticed the fuel pump relay and power windows relay are getting extremely hot to the touch after 5 minutes or so of driving. Why these relays are getting so hot? I cannot afford to keep getting the car towed home.
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My 2001 Buick Lesabre has always shown to run exactly normal on the temperature dash unit until recently. I checked my coolant level and it was a bit low, so I added. After I filled the radiator I have noticed a coolant leak spot on my driveway, after I drive it now. I have removed the gravel shield and have tried to pin point exactly where the leak is coming from, but cannot. Now, each time I park, after driving it, I put a clean piece of cardboard under it to try to see exactly what area the leak is coming from. Last night I put the car on ramps and crawled under to discover that the leak is located just above the oil filter and is actually dripping from the oil filter, but I still cannot see the exact location of the leak.Actually the leak does not appear until about an hour after I park the car, so it sounds like something is contracting after the engine has cooled off, but what? The leak has seemed to be getting worse each time I drive the car. How can I determine exactly where the leak is coming from without just changing a bunch of parts.
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I currently have no brake fluid in my car because it keeps leaking out (leaks while actively being used). The leak is between the power brake booster and the brake master cylinder... Is there any type of gasket I can get to better fill the gap between the two pieces of metal? Is there some way to tell which of the two pieces is creating the leak to narrow down which to purchase?
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My car would not start yesterday, and I realized the fuel pump was not running. So I bought a new fuel pump today and put it on, the car still won't start, the fuel pump still does not run and I have been told to check the relay. I cannot find the relay for this car.
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