Buick - LeSabre :: 1987 - Suddenly Quits While Driving Slower Or Idling
Aug 21, 2014
My 87 lesabre has run great for many years, but lately, it has been quitting on me. It happens randomly, usually while driving slower or idling. It just suddenly quits almost as if it's out of gas. It usually starts right back up, sometimes have to wait 20-30 seconds. It runs fine, not sluggish or anything, up until it quits. Had a couple mechanics look at it, when I told one about it he thought for sure it was going to be the fuel injectors but they all checked out fine.
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Last November my car began stalling while idling at stop lights. It didn't happen all the time, just occasionally. The car would start back up without too much difficulty. I took it to a GM dealer who cleaned the throttle body and decarburized the intake and exhaust valves. They also removed an aftermarket security system which had been installed by the previous owner which they claimed may have interfered electrically with the engine. They reported a history of code P0128 (thermostat sticking open) being stored in the ECM. I did not have the thermostat replaced.
The work the dealer performed did not resolve the issue. During the winter, I've been letting the car warm-up for a few minutes before driving. While warming up, the rpms will sometimes increase or decrease 200-300 rpm then return to normal idling a few seconds later. Sometimes when the rpms dip down low enough, the engine sputters and either recovers or stalls. On most days I don't have any issues and the car runs fine. The check engine light sometimes comes on while this happens, and sometimes it doesn't.
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1994 Buick LeSabre Custom 3.8 Litre V6 with 103277 miles.
It runs smooth when idling in Park, rough when I put it in gear when I am stopped (either drive or reverse) has hesitation when accelerating, it smooths out again when driving then it starts to drive rough at about 55 MPH.
Mechanic told me it was the plug wires. I replaced those and the plugs. This fixed the hesitation when accelerating issue, but the other issues remain (now even seem a little worse) I thought the plugs and/or wires were bad, so I rechecked the gauge on the plugs and traced to make sure I had the wires hooked up right. Everything seems in order.
I have added fuel injector cleaner, and changed the oil, oil filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, air filter, flushed the radiator, and changed the thermostat. (For a tune up since it has admittedly been a while)....
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2000 Buick 3.8. stop for gas, red light, etc. engine quits. 1st repair shop said fuel pump bad. Replace filter pressure okay. car starts later, quits multiple times. 2nd repair shop, car quits while there. Mechanic comes out with tester and says "no spark", ignition module bad, also spark plug harness bad. Replace just wires, and car runs for 9 months, no trouble. Now car quits while driving, no sputtering, just quits! Wait awhile, car starts, but 30 miles later, quits. Seems that hot weather has something to do with it, although it quit on a cold rainy fall day and had a hard time starting again. It did start and ran for 300 miles before acting up.
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I have a well taken care of '95 Buick LeSabre w about 80,000. Bought it a couple years ago from a man who kept it in his garage. Most components on car are original.
Recently I was driving down a very steep driveway at about 3 MPH, and bottomed the car out and scraped the bottom. Not too bad, but enough to make me cringe. As I drove home at about 45 MPH, I noticed that every time the car would engage the gear, there would be a thump coming from under the hood. This was at about 1300 RPM. After looking under the hood and having a buddy rev the engine while in drive with the brakes pressed down, the engine doesn't seem to move too much. Furthermore, the engine mount and Trans mount seem to be okay, and not broken. Rubber is solid.
Is the thumping sound perhaps due to 'old' mounts or could this be something else like the torque strut mount,etc? Also, will it be evident when one of these are damaged, or is it something you replace after a certain while like shocks, etc?
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I have a 1995 Buick Lesabre. The car jerks while I am driving or when idle as if it wants to shut off. Sometimes it jerks and then the check engine light comes on. When I described the problem to my mechanic he said that it might have been the fuel filter but then he said it might be an electrical problem. I would like to start with the fuel filter to see if that would work but I am not a mechanic nor am I an expert on cars nor do I want to spend tons of money on such an old car.
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I was wondering my buick a 1995 lasbre it cranks up fine and the engine light comes on and off when i start driving it cuts off and cranks right back up people say its the crank sensor...
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I have a problem in the form of a 2000 Buick LeSabre Custom with the GM 3800 series II engine. After 245k miles, it has begun to show it's age in some very unaffectionate ways. It has been stalling, sputtering, hesitating, and unwilling to start at seemingly random intervals. And, such is my luck, there has been no 'check engine' light on at any point during this saga. Here's the chronology of events spanning 6 months:
The first symptom I experienced was occasional sputtering, mainly while going uphill. This began to occur shortly after the spark plugs were replaced during regular maintenance. So I replaced the spark plugs again, and also the wires, fuel filter, and fuel pressure regulator. Plus I gave the MAF a good cleaning.
But the problem persisted, and grew to include intermittent stalling when I would come to a stop. Undaunted, I replaced the ignition coils, and swapped in a used ICM.
The car, obviously displeased with my choice words toward it, began to not start every now and then. It would just crank to no avail. So I would try again after an hour or two and it would immediately start as if nothing was wrong. Fearing that I or my wife could be left stranded I replaced the fuel pump. It continues to stall every once in a while and it still sometimes sputters at low rpms. A lot of times it just wont idle at a constant speed.
So then I replaced the crank sensor and I cleaned the camshaft sensor too. Guess what? It's still intermittently sputtering/hesitating when I accelerate from a stop. And I have noticed that it will also sputter while idling in park as well. It's like it's misfiring, but with no engine codes. I'm not happy.
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Recently two of the hubcaps on my 1999 Buick Le Sabre have been coming loose after about 100 miles of driving. How to keep them secure? I don't want to buy aftermarket hubcaps. The wheels are balanced and the rims are in good condition, as are the tires.
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I am getting no pressure at the fuel rail. Relay seems to be ok, so I am assuming the pump just failed (in the driveway luckily). Before I drop the fuel tank, I would like to confirm I am getting voltage back to the pump. I cannot fine any wiring in or under the car going to that area! How to find that circuit as close to the pump as possible and still accessible without dropping the tank?
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Driving this 1996 Buick Century limited,4 cylinder car normally, the car will just stop running without any warning, nor rhyme nor reason. Most of the time this has occured, a tow truck has been called, but prior to towing, the car started normally and ran without problems for quite a while. The car has been in the chevrolet garage multiple times, at least over nine, for this problem, but will never show up for the mechanic. There is no specific driving pattern to cause this to occur: it dies in normal driving on the street, starting from a stop, in parking lots,
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I have a 1987 LeSabre that will not start sometimes and if I disconnect the battery and let it sit about five minutes and reconnect, it starts right back up. Then it seems to be fine for a few days, then won't start again. When it is trying not to start, it cranks, but when you let go of the key it dies again Unless the gas is continuously pushed down.
If you keep trying to start it without adding any gas, it seems like it cranks less and less each attempt? There don't seem to be any other problems with this car at all and no real warning that this is going to happen. I can't even think of things that have been the same each time it happened. It has happened when car was warm, happened when cold. I guess it has happened after letting the car get below 1/4 tank and then refilling (sometime within a day of a fresh tank it does this, maybe?)
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Car:2000 Buick Regal54,000 miles3.8 V6, Vin K
Problem:The engine quits running. Idle, part throttle, moving, stopped, open or closed loop doesn't matter. Sometimes it will re-fire immediately, other times it may take a dozen or more attempts.
There is no MIL, and my TECH 2 is finding no issues.
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I have a 1995 buick roadmaster with 308,000 miles. The car quits intermittently but starts up immediately thereafter. Seems like an electrical issue but it doesn't act like the distributor is malfunctioning or fuel stoppage since it doesn't shudder prior to quitting. I have had the car since new, we love it and would like to keep it.
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I have a 2010 Chrysler Sebring that in the past month will all of a sudden quit running. Had to the dealership twice in past month. New plugs, injectors cleaned. Got car out of shop yesterday and drove 6 miles and it quit twice again. Too late to take back to dealer. They have checked it out twice on monitor and all they said was what they did to repair. It seems to me that it is a fuel problem. Maybe a fuel pump, fuel filter, or dirt in the fuel itself. Will have to take back to dealer Monday. What do you think is the problem. Not missing or ideling rough. Runs good, but will all of a sudden quit.
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Tucson with 31,000 miles, and my 5-year power train warranty will expire in mid-September 2011. Recently, and consistently, when I drive through a puddle my power steering suddenly quits, the battery light comes on, the brake light comes on, and my blood pressure rises a bit. After a few seconds, the power steering will come back on, or I'll pull over and re-start the car for the power steering to come on.
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I have recently noticed that my car will stall out when I get up to about 20 mph. My car starts fine, no check engine light on. I has a tendency to just die in the middle of the road at times too. I have changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, and a new fuel filter. Do I need to change the mass air flow sensor? Or the crank position sensor? I have no problems starting the car either. Runs good when it runs.
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Where is the relay box for turn and hazard signals in 98 Buick LeSabre custom? my hazards ans signals don't work switched fuses but didn't work. Where the box is I've never owned a Buick til now. there isn't one under the hood just the main on the driver's side.
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1996 buick lesabre custom 3800. The car stalls from time to time, and the fuel pump, power windows, power seats, and power mirrors all stop working. Most people who have had this problem cleaned the ground bus on the drivers side under the carpet. I have done this, and the car has not stalled yet, but I haven't driven it far because I have noticed the fuel pump relay and power windows relay are getting extremely hot to the touch after 5 minutes or so of driving. Why these relays are getting so hot? I cannot afford to keep getting the car towed home.
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My 2001 Buick Lesabre has always shown to run exactly normal on the temperature dash unit until recently. I checked my coolant level and it was a bit low, so I added. After I filled the radiator I have noticed a coolant leak spot on my driveway, after I drive it now. I have removed the gravel shield and have tried to pin point exactly where the leak is coming from, but cannot. Now, each time I park, after driving it, I put a clean piece of cardboard under it to try to see exactly what area the leak is coming from. Last night I put the car on ramps and crawled under to discover that the leak is located just above the oil filter and is actually dripping from the oil filter, but I still cannot see the exact location of the leak.Actually the leak does not appear until about an hour after I park the car, so it sounds like something is contracting after the engine has cooled off, but what? The leak has seemed to be getting worse each time I drive the car. How can I determine exactly where the leak is coming from without just changing a bunch of parts.
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I currently have no brake fluid in my car because it keeps leaking out (leaks while actively being used). The leak is between the power brake booster and the brake master cylinder... Is there any type of gasket I can get to better fill the gap between the two pieces of metal? Is there some way to tell which of the two pieces is creating the leak to narrow down which to purchase?
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