Buick - Lasebre :: 2001 Not Starting Properly - Check Engine Light On And Shows EGR Valve Stuck Open
May 9, 2012
My 2001 Buick Lasebre is not starting properly. I have to pump the gas several times before it will start; then when it is started at low speeds or idle it wants to stall. As long as I can some how keep pushing the gas peddle it wont stall. On the other hand when I am driving at higher speeds, anything above 40 or so it runs perfect. The check engine light was on and shows EGR valve stuck open. I have replaced the Mass airflow sensor, fuel filter, and the EGR valve. I had the code cleared and a short while later my check engine light came back on with the exact same reading. I bought this car only a week ago and was not expecting to have to fix a car I just bought and ran fine while test driving it. I have read may different forum that say that it could be anything from my fuel pump to vacuum hoses, to some other sensor.
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My check engine light came on the other day and the code stated the the "throttle position is open" so after researching and everyone telling me that i need to change the sensor. I did everything after was fine running better but today only after 3 days replacing it i get the same problems. car has no get up and go hardly can push to 20 mph and when in idle i press the break it starts to bog down and almost want to shut off! and can be really loud...
Santa fe 05' 3.5L ....
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I have an 05 Elantra GLS auto transmission, ~83000 miles. Last Friday, the car was driving fine. I didn't drive it on Saturday, but when I started it up Sunday night, that's where the issue began. First, when I shift into reverse, the car makes a noise like as when you go over a pot hole. Idle RPM is around 800.
When I press the gas pedal, usually the response from the car to go forward is almost instantaneous, but now it take a second or two from the time I press down the gas pedal to when the car moves forward. The process is smooth though, no hiccups as it does that. Next, when I was driving on the highway between 70 - 80 MPH, the car's RPM was 4000 - 4500. It even sounds like the engine is "working harder" than it usually does. The 'Check Engine' light is also on with these codes: P0700 and P0885.
Another thing I noticed is that the car alternates between running fine and running with the conditions described above. If the car run with the symptoms described above, I shut off the car and restart it. Then it will run fine, but the check engine light will stay on. Then if I turn off the car and restart it, it will go back to the mode where I have the issues.
From some research, the P0700 code just means that the TCM has the actual code which is P0885. According to the tech manuals at [URL] ...., the P0885 has the following probable causes.
- Malfunction of the A/T control relay
- Malfunction of connector
- Malfunction of the PCM
The car actually ran fine today, with out any issues but the Check Engine light is stuck on. How to replace/service this PCM item? Or maybe this issue is covered under 100,000mile warranty?
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I changed a fuel pump that a service shop said was bad. It would start and run for a few minutes and then stop. If it started at all. I dropped the tank and put a new pump in. The car did not start at all, not once. Not even fire. I had to install a new electrical connector inside the tank on the pump. The connector was different than the one in there. I connected black wire to black and grey to grey, thinking that made sense. Took off inline fuel filter next to tank. Had someone turn on key to see if fuel would come out. Nothing. But I did hear fuel running loudly through the return line. Which confused me at the time.
Thinking of it over night, could it be not likely, very likely those lines are in reverse, causing the pump to pump backwards. Which is why I heard fuel going through the return line? If this is the case I am going to try tomorrow to reverse the lines going into the tank. Instead of the fun of removing tank again. Why would pumps have black and grey wires that hook up differently?
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My 2010 Prius with 72k miles on it. I bought a OBDII scanner and read P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected. The check engine light comes on for few days, then go away for few weeks and then come back again. It's been doing the exact same thing (Come on for few days and then go away) in last few months. But I do not feel any different in terms of driving.
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2002 Ford Windstar: Whenever I disconnect the battery and then reconnect it, I get this hum that sounds like the CD player preparing to play a CD. There is no CD in the player. It last for about 30 seconds and then stops. Afterwards, my check engine light comes on and stay on until I have the mechanic reset the alarm. The battery is new. My meter shows that the battery is giving out enough volts. It annoys me to have the check engine light on all of the time. I'd rather it be off so it can report if something else goes wrong with the engine.
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About, one month ago my car shut off while driving(pretty scary at the time). I pulled of the road and attempted to start it again. Everything looked good there, but as I was making my way home from work it started to act funny. It would not acknowledge me depressing the accelerator. When I got home, I ate supper, then went to have a look.
The car would turn on, but not acknowledge me pressing the accelerator at all, It did however go up to 30 mph at a snails pace as if it was coasting down a hill. I plugged in my code reader, and it read that the Throttle Body Valve was stuck open. I took it off and tore into to it a bit. I noticed the gears inside the TB itself were corroded and the butterfly valve was locked up.
I replaced the part, and tried to turn my car on with the new TB. All the dash lights are in working order, however upon turning the ignition to crank the engine, the whole car system shuts down. No lights no nothing, besides the car door open sound. The car will remain like this regardless of the key position until I have reset the batter(take off the terminals and put them back on) to which the process repeats itself.
The code reader says no codes are stored because I obviously reset the battery. So now am at a standstill.I believe the old TB froze up, because I had to run in through 3 ft standing water during a storm, and then deployed shortly after(I'm in the service) for a few months while letting the car sit.
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I have 2006 GS 300. Check Engine and VSC Light came on after car wasn't shifting properly. The codes are P0761 and P2714. Dealer claimed transmission fluid was low said they drain and refilled the fluid. Transmission does not have a leak, so I didn't understand why they claimed the fluid was low. Car ran fine for a day then issue came back. The codes refer to shift selenoids.
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I had a code for the EGR valve stuck open. I tried cleaning it but it didn't work (and didn't seem that dirty). Then I tried replacing it. Both times the code came back. What should I do now? I reset the code each time by disconnecting the battery.
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I have a 2000 Buick Century with 212k miles on it. I would like to sell it. The problem is the transmission overdrive solenoid keeps getting stuck open. It's not a big deal once I get going 55mph or so. It's just that it's kinda "jerky" before getting up to that speed. Is this something that can be fixed by having the transmission system flushed or is it a problem of having to replace the transmission? How do I sell this car (even for dirt cheap) if I have to tell the interested persons that the transmission is going out???? Can I get a thousand bucks for it simply for the fact that it does run? I have been driving it until yesterday, fairly regularly.
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So the day before my 20,000 mile service was scheduled my check engine light came on. I took the car into the dealer and told them the light was on. When I got the call that the car was done they said that the EGR valve was bad and they ordered me another one. They said that they cleared the code and that the part would be in this week. Since they cleared the light it has not come back on. My question is did I lose my Revo stage one tune in my TDI? The dealer never said anything so I didn't want to ask if they had reset my ECU.
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I brought my 2004 Passat 1.8 in for check engine light-- After checking several things and test driving the car they said the finally found the problem-- the "combinations valve" I searched the forum and below was all I found this under that word combo-- is that the only "combination valve"? This is not something I've heard about before-- are they just saying perhaps 2 different valves?
" Turbocharging System, Overview"
For brake booster
10 - Air filter with Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor - G70 -
11 - Pressure control valve for crankshaft housing ventilation
12 - Combination valve
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Get in my car, try to start it and BAM it hits me. As I turn the key, the engine cranks up quick, kinda too quick, if you ask me. As I go to adjust my radio, I feel my car start to jump around and shake pretty rough. As I look at my gauges, I see my check engine light start to flash. So instead of trying to drive away, I turn it off and try to start it again. Same thing happens!! So I try it again and finally a normal start. Whew, I thought that was close. But oddly enough my check engine light comes on and stays on this time, no more flashing and the engine feels fine. What the problem could be? Is it safe to drive my car?
2000 Buick Park Avenue 3.8 auto....
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2006 Buick Lacrosse, CXL, 78K miles. 6 months ago, the check gas cap message came on. The gas cap was replaced. The message is still on. Soon after, the engine light came on as well. The Buick dealer said (without running a diagnostic or looking at the car) we needed to replace the catalytic converter and it would be expensive! Had 2 diagnostic tests run - one at a garage and one at an auto parts shop. No codes were detected.
Whenever the car is close to its 3k oil change, an "'oil low" message appears. The oil has never been low, it's an annoying message to get the oil changed. As the gas cap/engine light came on shortly before its 75K mile check, could this be the same case?
The car runs great and there has been no change in gas mileage.
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I have a P2440 code from warning light- Secondary AIR System Switching Valve A' Stuck Open. This started to appear when I took it into the dealer for other issue with transfer case whining when in 4x4. Can this code be associated with something the mechanic did , would they remove any sensors or wires, that may not have put back. Not happy. Are these trucks know for this code? Estimate cost?
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Check engine light computer scan indicates intake manifold runner control valve stuck open. Will it damage the car to drive it in this condition and what does fixing it entail?
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So for the past week or so, I've been having problems with my cooling system. (May or may not be related to my air valve stuck open code, just thought I'd mention it.) First thing that drew my attention to the problem was smoke (or steam) coming from under the hood, I let the car cool off, and drove home. During this time I also noticed the heat stopped working. I went to get some coolant in another car and filled it up. Smoke went away, and heat started working again.
Later the same day I checked the reservoir and it looked low so I figured the radiator sucked all the coolant up, so I refilled the resivoir tank. I spilled a nice amount when doing that, and the steam came back. It cooled down again and no more steam, figured it burnt off. The next few mornings on my first drive of the day ONLY, I saw steam. Thought it was the condensation mixing with the leftover coolant that I spilled since it didn't happen at all until the next morning.
Today was the first time it started steaming at night, and the heat stopped working again, even though the reservoir level was mostly full. I let the car cool down, and then I added more coolant and the heat started working again, no more steam either. Looked under the hood once I got home, abt a 20 min drive, resivoir was nearly empty even though car was still warm. No visible leaks on the smaller reservoir hose but there are puddles under the hood.
I've read it could be a leak of course, but also the Cap could be preventing the right pressure to suck fluid back in radiator after expanding into the surge tank, or something causing the tank to boil over....
Car is a 2013 Chevy Sonic with 68,000 miles. Coolant has never been drained/refilled since I bought the car new in 2013.
[IMG] ....
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I only have 2200 miles on my new 2012 Passat SE V6 and the check engine light came on the other morning. I took it in to the dealer and they found codes P0442 (EVAP Emission Control System Small Leak Detected) and P0456 (EVAP Emission Control System Very Small Leak Detected). The tech says on the work order that he removed and tested the EVAP Purge Valve with a vacuum pump and the valve would not hold a vacuum. The dealer replaced the EVAP Purge Valve under warranty. They say this is the first 2012 passat V6 they've seen with this issue. I've only had the car for 4 weeks.
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I changed plugs wires and car started drove 32 miles to work started loosing power fuel pump seems to b fine check engine came on then started flashing worked 10 hours and car won't start 98 Buick v6 3.8....
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So sometime last week my check engine light came on. Took my 13 Accent to the dealership and they said the purge valve is to be replaced. Now my Accent pings when running 87 gas and I read that others (not necessarily Accent owners) who changed their purge valve noticed the pinging go away.
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On 12/30/14 my car had 6 spark plugs and a gasket replaced by a GM dealershhip in response to the check engine light being on. An air induction service and a fuel injector cleaning service was also performed at this time. On 01/26/15 I had to replace the battery in my car. After replacing the battery the check engine light was on and has stayed on. I read elsewhere online something to the effect that when a car battery is changed your car has to relearn the emissions system and the check engine light might possibly come on but should go off after driving awhile. I have driven approximately 300 miles since the battery change and the car is running fine. However, the check engine light is still on. The GM dealership is in another town and I hate to make the trip to have it checked if I don't really need to.
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