Just bought a '97 Buick LaSabre in great condition (Grandma-owned), 74K miles. Only problem is when I turn on the car I have to wait 1 to 1-1/2 minutes to get it out of park.... as if it needs to "warm up" before changing gears.
View 9 RepliesI was driving down the road and the rpm gauge went crazy. Then it flat lined at zero. The voltage warning light came on then the car stalled. It then wouldn't restart. Tried jump starting and tightening the battery cables. After sitting a while after I tried starting it I heard a sound like a demon grumbling I think it may have been a pump of some sort.
View 1 RepliesMy Buick started wobbling during accelerating a few months ago. It only does this from 45 to 55 MPH. If I stay between 45 and 55 it continues to wobble. Slower or faster and it quits. I've had it in the shop 4 times and they can't find the problem. The first shop changed the steering angle sensor but that didn't fix the problem. I took it to another shop. They couldn't find anything wrong. I took it back and they said a tie rod end had some play. They changed that. They did an alignment afterwards. They've also balanced the tires twice during this process. None of this fixed it. I took it back and they couldn't find anything so I ask them to check the motor mounts and they said they are good. They said everything in the front end feels tight. I like my car without the wobble and it only has 79,000 miles on it. How am I going to find out what the problem is?
View 1 RepliesVibrating at 50-55mph, also at 75+, was reduced considerably when forward transmission mount was replaced. Still shimmies and feel little in the steering wheel. Have replaced tie rod ends, back struts and tires. Need to figure out what I am missing.
View 2 RepliesI don't get it. Usually after I've driven the car, either of the remotes (I've changed batteries on both) do not work. However, if I go into a store and come out 10 minutes later, both remotes will lock, unlock, open the trunk, sound the emergency horn without any problems.
I've even replaced the Keyless Entry Theft Cont Module, which is basically the Remote Entry receiver located in the trunk. I still have the exact same problem with the new receiver.
The remote fobs have new batteries, and one is brand new and programmed with a GM Tech Tool II. The system's receiver is new.
What else could it be. Why does the remote entry only work when the car has been sitting idyll for a while.
Ok, here is the problem: 1997 Buick Park Ave driver's door will not open from inside or outside. It will not unlock. The inside lock/unlock button will not move to unlock position. Using the key from outside will not unlock the door. This happened on the coldest day of the year (15 degrees). I'd love to take off the door panel to look inside but I can't open the door! I'm getting tired of entering and exiting the car from the passenger door!
View 3 Replies1997 Ford F150 4.2 liter V6 with Eod transmission. I have replaced the shift actuator, the brake switch, the ignition switch and tumbler, tightened all nuts and bolts on and around the steering column shifter, and had a mechanic replace the shift cable and go through the wiring from front to back. He couldn't figure out the problem.
I recently noticed while coming to a stop on a gravel road I touched the brakes and the front brakes locked up. I have anti-lock on this truck so is this normal and could this maybe be the problem with no brake lights and not coming out of park? Just for giggles I also had to come to a sudden stop in town on pavement a couple times and the tires locked up so hard I could smell rubber burning where the tires slid.
I have a '97 F150 Lariat Ext cab, 5.4, 2Wd, 175K, a bit rusty but for the most part functional. Unit is parked for long periods of time.
3 - 4 years back the gear shift did not want to go into PARK and and the gear indicator was out of register. Unit would not start and I had to move shift lever to N to start. Fixed the two screws on shift plate/column per this site. Then 18 months ago same thing begin to occur but this time I used blue thread lock to hold screws in place. Still had to throw into park to get it to stay.
6 months ago shifter became very difficult to move and near impossible to get into PARK. When in PARK the interlock must have not been engaged so had to move to N or push lever hard into PARK to start.
Tired of this so I cruised the site and found several posts on taking dash apart, repairing a broken shift tube and or replacing bushings.
Battery disconnected, dash apart, cluster out, steering wheel still on and steering column still in position. Shift tube appears OK, i.e. not broken as in one post, bushings appears OK as there is no play or slop evident, but I cannot get the shift lever to move from PARK, period.
When the shift lever is pulled toward the wheel, a pawl on the tube causes a plastic or nylon arm to move about 90 degrees. It must be a stop or safety of some sort. I have not dug deep enough to see the shift plate with the two screws. At 75 I find it difficult to lay upside down to reach and hope I can get to them from the top.
Questions:
1. How do I get it out of PARK to check all things on shift tube and gear selector units?
2. Does the battery need to be connected for the interlocks to function?
3. Do I need to drop the column to check on shift tube items?
4. With a rusty trans, can the shift cable to trans connection be the problem?
5. What to look for, how to repair. etc.
I have a 01 F150. I just turned it on and everything was fine it turns on lights turn on but when I tried to get out of the garage I would not shift. Windows won't go down . I am guessing it's something electrical .
View 1 Replieshaving problem w/ 98 f-150. first truck stuck in park. figured out how to get around that (turn key 1 position, shift to neutral, start vehicle, then engage transmission). but no brake lights! I have turn signals, driving lights, hazards, etc in rear. I disconnected harness from brake light switch. there are 2 leads, 1 hot, 1 not. i jumped them and no brake lights. i tested the switch and it functions properly (it's reconnected now). i changed my bulbs in tail lights. I unplugged the solenoid (which is impossibly located behind/beside steering column). this allowed me to shift like an old truck (without having to brake first), but doesn't solve my lack of brake lights (i've reattached the solenoid harness to remind me of my problems).
i am putting my money on a broken wire somewhere between the brake light switch (b/c that was good) and the solenoid (i am not hearing that faint click when i step on brake). but a broken wire should work by accident some of the time (unless cut cleanly and completely). there is a green wire with red stripe leaving the brake light switch and 3 wires at the solenoid harness (1 green and maybe a smaller gauge than those at the switch and 2 others which i don't recall their colors). Ford service manager doesn't think it's the solenoid but wasn't otherwise useful except to say, "hey, why don't you bring it in to me." What to look for before i plunk down for someone to perform what I already have before completing the job!
can i splice a wire from something (? brake light switch?) to something (?wire in solenoid harness?) or does that "electronic signal" get processed somewhere else first?
Where I could get a front driver side window regulator I am having a problem finding one and tired of the window going up and down slow due to the window ending up on the wrong side of the rubber.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1988 Buick PA Electra. Car idles rough and shaky at a stop light. When warmed up service engine light comes on for a few seconds then goes off. I've changed ignition coil box, wires, plugs, ignition module, fuel injectors, fuel filter. It seems like there may be a vacuum leak. Car has only 114,000 miles on it and I don't want to give up on her. Before this she was running smooth.
View 4 RepliesI have a '63 Buick Wildcat that has been sitting for 17 years. It has 2 spark plugs stuck in the motor. I got the other 6 out with liquid wrench. The other 2 have been soaking in liquid wrench for 2 weeks and I have been using a 3/8 drive spark plug socket, but still unable to get them out. How to get them out?
View 9 RepliesI purchased this vehicle this week.69k miles..driving 25 miles to my home the temp. control beeped...near my home...my son added near 1 gal of anti freeze....that night there seemed to be a small amount of leakage under the radiator (but none since that date 11/24/14 or 2 + days ago ).. the coolant level in the radiator appeared down 1 inch on one check. On the last check after running and then off...the radiator level was up to the top and the reservoir level was at 1 inch. My son thought there might be a fine/mist spraying in the area near the left lower side of the radiator..since that time with the motor running I placed a piece of file folder down near where he thought there was a mist and saw none on the folder... this car was owed my an elderly person and likely was not driven often of late.
View 4 RepliesI recently acquired a 1992 Buick Park Ave. My problem is that she shakes as i slow down and stalls when I stop. Usually about 10 minutes or so of driving. It doesn't stall every time but less when i baby the brake (i think) Its getting worse quickly and I've changed the spark plug wires and that didn't work also the previous owner recently changed the Cam sensor yet I'm getting a code 41.
View 14 Replies1994 Buick LeSabre Custom 3.8 Litre V6 with 103277 miles.
It runs smooth when idling in Park, rough when I put it in gear when I am stopped (either drive or reverse) has hesitation when accelerating, it smooths out again when driving then it starts to drive rough at about 55 MPH.
Mechanic told me it was the plug wires. I replaced those and the plugs. This fixed the hesitation when accelerating issue, but the other issues remain (now even seem a little worse) I thought the plugs and/or wires were bad, so I rechecked the gauge on the plugs and traced to make sure I had the wires hooked up right. Everything seems in order.
I have added fuel injector cleaner, and changed the oil, oil filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, air filter, flushed the radiator, and changed the thermostat. (For a tune up since it has admittedly been a while)....
I recently had the radiator on my car replaced and wen I got it back the temperature and gas gauge needles are both blown past the HOT sign and past the full sign on my gas gauge and is sitting under the little black piece under the the cold side and under the empty side. it was obviously messed with and completely turned around but why is it like this? will it reset itself or should I take i.e., back to the mechanic to have it fixed by him?
2000 buick park avenue....
I have a 2000 Buick Century with 212k miles on it. I would like to sell it. The problem is the transmission overdrive solenoid keeps getting stuck open. It's not a big deal once I get going 55mph or so. It's just that it's kinda "jerky" before getting up to that speed. Is this something that can be fixed by having the transmission system flushed or is it a problem of having to replace the transmission? How do I sell this car (even for dirt cheap) if I have to tell the interested persons that the transmission is going out???? Can I get a thousand bucks for it simply for the fact that it does run? I have been driving it until yesterday, fairly regularly.
View 2 RepliesI just bought a 2003 Ford Crown Victoria with sport package. It is similar to the P71 Police Interceptor model with stiffer springs, thicker anti-roll bars, etc. I checked the sticker on the door and found that Ford recommends 32 psi for the front tires and 35 psi for the rear tires. This is a conventional front-engine, rear-drive car. I was expecting to see 29-32 psi, and same pressure for both front and rear. I don't understand the manufacturer would recommend higher pressure in the rear for a car that is a little heavier in the front. I am thinking of keeping both the front and rear at 32 psi.
View 14 RepliesEvery time I use my left turn signal it tends to get stuck and stay on...never turns off unless u get luck enough to jiggle it a little... So I have reverted to not using.. Why this could be happening? Its funny cause when it gets stuck it even stays on when i turn the car off so i end up disconnecting the battery...any way to stop this? 2000 buick park ave.....
View 9 RepliesI have been trying to move my vehicle. It starts but does not let me put it in gear. It's stuck to park. Whole bunch of warning lights came on. I have the check engine, abs, EPC, traction control and parking brake(even if it is not on) lights. A real Christmas tree. What it is.
View 2 Replies