Buick - LaCross :: 2005 - Brakes Not Working In Very Low Speed
Jan 14, 2016
My mother's in low has a problem with brakes that so far no one can tell what is wrong. The problem with her brakes some times appear and most of the time the brakes are fine. In very low speed ( forward or backing) when she press the brake pedal to stop, the pedal sink and the car keep going without stopping. The local auto-mechanic replaced something ( she does not know) and didn't fix the problem, then they replaced the main cylinder and still have the problem. She went to the dealer and the dealer decide that the brakes wasn't bled properly so the dealer bled the brakes. The car work fine for a wile until the problem appear again. What is going on with those brakes?
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A couple of weeks ago my 2005 Buick century start making a noise when i hit the brakes and all the lights on the dash lit up like a christmas tree. The noise it makes when i hit the brakes is like humming sound and the pedal will get kinda spungy and push in and out, if i keep driving it stops and all the lights come on (abs, trac off, service engine, and sometimes the brake light as if the parking brake is on) after all these lights come on the noises stop and the brake pedal works fine. I was told that the anti lock brake pump was going bad but I didn't realize there was a pump.
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I have a 1999 Buick Regal GS and it feels like I'm continuously riding the brakes at random times and engine sounds like its working harder than usual to get the car to move. I thought I had this problem solved by replacing the master cylinder but I seems to be happening again. The reason I replaced the master cylinder was because I came out one morning about 2 months ago and started down my driveway to get the mail (I live on a steep hill) and I thought I had a broken line or something because I had almost no pedal and it was sinking to the floor. What confused me the brakes seemed good the day before when I drove about 40 miles round trip to town and then parked it overnight. (except for the brakes sticking feeling) I had the car put on a rack and found nothing more than a slow leak at the proportioning valve but I noticed on the way to the shop the car was no longer hard to move and was smoother rolling than it had been in a long long time.
The brake fluid was a little low but when I filled it to the max level the pedal still felt soft and would sink unit I had the master cylinder replaced, With the sinking pedal and all I was thinking its probably a bad/sticking master cylinder that maybe could have been applying slight pressure to all the brakes at once and now it was released. I purchased a reman master cylinder from advance and had it put on and it seemed to work great and my car was still rolling freely. The proportional valve is still leaking (small drip when pressed) but I didn't think it could cause all these problems. I usually have to pump the brake before I leave of a morning or my pedal will be soft and sink but not all the time.
Recently I noticed my car is starting to feel like it is sticking again and my last mpg estimate was 17mpg, I might be a little hard on the throttle at times but not all the time. The rims feel equally warm after driving but not real hot. I have replaced a lot of parts over the last 2 years so most of the braking parts are near new. All the brake lines have been replaced along with the hydraulic hoses. Front calipers are new Rear caliper I rebuilt myself Master cylinder was replaced over a month ago. Could it be the abs unit or the brake booster? A week ago the car rolled freely but the pedal was starting to feel hard like the symptoms of a bad brake booster.
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I have a 2005 Toyota Camry that we purchased 14 months ago. When purchased it had bad brakes so the dealer replaced the rotors and calipers at their expense. A month ago I took the car in for a routine oil change and was notified that my rear calipers were stuck open and that my rear brakes were not working and rusted. The rotors look hardly worn, the one on the passenger side has some deep grooves in it and the driver side is pitted. We feel that we had poor work done when the brakes were replaced and that the back never worked. After the brake job was done we would get some "chinging" noise in the back brakes and I had them inspected twice and they said everything was fine. But now we find out they weren't fine.
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Does this mean I need to see a mechanic. My car is a 97 buick century, 94kmiles. Rear brakes were replaced at 83k and front brakes were replaced at 80k. A few months ago, the noise began and has persisted once a day when brakes are applied first time of the day.
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My right rear brakeline blew out on my 2000 Buick Century, but even though the car has dual master cylinder which had been giving me no trouble, brake light not lit, car would stop properly untill blowout, no blowouts or leaks in front brake system, I lost pedal altogether for both systems and had to creep home using emergency brake. Isn't a dual system supposed to still give me my front brakes, in a rear blowout? ABS seems ok, anti-lock light never came on.
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My 1992 Buck Century sometimes makes a whirring sound when I reach a speed of 45MPH or more. Sometimes it sounds steady or sometimes rythmic like "whir, whir, whir or whoop, whoop, whoop. It doesn't do it while standing still, so I know it's not the engine. It's strickly a motion noise. Is it the brakes or wheel bearings? Transmission problem?
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I have a 2005 F250 & both front calipers are locking up. I have replaced the front pads, no change, my mechanic installed a new master cylinder. No lockup for about two weeks until today. Front calibers are locking up again.
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The brakes on my 2007 LaCrosse do not feel like they are engaging when I am reversing and the car is cold (first thing in the morning or first thing after work). The pedal feels very stiff/hard and the car doesn't feel like the brakes are stopping it. Every time I apply the brakes after that first time, they behave fine. I had the front brakes repaired/replaced but the problem persists.
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We had the transmission in our Buick Terraza overhauled with 196,000 miles on it. The van had about 250,000 miles on it and we took it on vacation this summer when lo and behold, we were left stranded 800 miles from home when the transmission went out. We managed to make it home and eventually got the van home when my wife asked...what are you going to do with it? To which I responded, I am going to replace it myself with a transmission that has a better than 12 mo, 12,000 mile warranty.
Long story short, I bought a rebuilt Jasper transmission which comes with a 3 year, 100,000 mile warranty. When I was taking the transmission out though, I noticed that the brace that attaches the transmission to the right rear side of the engine was loose. There are 3 bolts that hold the brace to the engine and all three had bottomed out in the engine block. Me question...is this right...or did the previous garage that overhauled the transmission use bolts that were too long...or maybe they need a washer under them. With them being loose, there is some sloppiness to the bracket so I didn't know if it was designed that way to account for any variances in the transmission housing.
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my 1995 buick regal does not have a spark, and I have had 2 mechanics look at it. The sereptine belt broke while I was driving, I believe it was because the water pump was bad and locked up. the belt got wrapped up in the crank pulley and I removed it. The AC has not worked in a really long time so I do not think that it is that pulley. It is not getting a spark. I have replaced the water pump, and the car sounds like it wants to start but it is getting no spark to it. I have had the crank sensor tested and the coil something. none of those seems to be the problem. some one suggested that it is the computer brain. I suggested that it was the timing. Though I do not really know. the battery is good so i know it is not that. and it has fuel. and i know that the engine is getting fuel. I know that the spark plugs are not getting spark (tested with a screwdriver in the socket on metal) So what is wrong with it.
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I recently bought a 2005 Buick Century with 86,140 miles. It has a few things my old Century didn’t have including traction control, anti-lock brakes and 4-speed automatic overdrive. When I slow down to negotiate a sharp turn at an intersection, I sometimes hear a brief humming sound from the front end. It lasts for a second or two. It happens after the car’s been driven for about an hour. I don’t know if it’s the transmission, the brakes or power steering. It doesn’t matter if I turn right or left.
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Have 2005 Buick Century. There is a brake fluid leak somewhere between the brake fluid reservoir and the bottom of the car. Seeking a leak-stopping fluid such as the fluid used to stop a leak in a radiator.
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I recently put in a new compressor and accumulator. I didn't change the orifice tube since it is almost impossible to get to. I added freon and oil with dye and it would work fine sporadically sometimes it wouldn't get cold at all other times it would be freezing. This lasted about a week. I noticed that when it was hot the clutch was engaging fully but I felt the pipe near the firewall and it wasn't cold as if the compressor wasn't compressing and then it would start compressing and it would get cold. The compressor sounds different when it was making the car cold. This led me to rule out a problem in the air control doors. Now there seems to be a leak which is bad since it runs out almost immediately. The problem is finding it since there isn't any oil residue or freon dye where I can see.
(Looking for some shortcuts where I don't have to remove the vacuum brake, brake booster to change the orifice tube?)
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My running lights aren't working. My father (who has been working on cars since the mid 1960's and now fiddles with small farm equipment too)- checked every single fuse - on the passenger side panel, and both right and left panels under the hood. All fuses were good. A couple of years ago I had a problem with the brake lights (not the third one) not working and it turned out it was in the turn signal lever. We had tried the fuses, wires, etc. and couldn't figure it out. So I'm thinking that the running lights are something weird like that too. Especially since I can't drive at night without any running lights.
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I drive a 2001 Buick Century. Sometime last month (or maybe the month before), my digital odometer was on the fritz. There's a little sub-partition to my dash that houses my digital odometer as well as the indication as to what gear i'm in (PRND32). So it started fading a little, then on some days it wouldn't light up at all. I know the odometer is still working, because on the days when it would light up, it didn't pick up where it left off, rather it had been working the whole time I couldn't see it. And this started going in and out more and more frequently until now it hasn't lit up in about a month.
So, i take my car into my mechanic for an oil change (just had to guess at how close i was to 3,000 miles) and I ask him about it. He tells me that it'd cost so much in time and parts that I might as well not even fix it.
So now what? I'm fine just driving around without it. I know what gear I'm in without my car having to tell me, and I guess I can just estimate when to get my oil changed, although it's rather inconvenient. But what do I do when I want to sell it or trade it in? The longer I go without knowing my mileage, the farther afield an estimate will be.
You know, what I was thinking is that I really just need someone to run a red light and total my car. Then insurance would cover me and the odometer would be low on my list of worries. I just hope the airbags still work...
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The horn on the vehicle is not working. The fuse and relay have both been tested and replaced. The horn itself does work when connected in an alternate method. Trying to find wiring from steering column to horn to determine issue. Any wiring diagram that shows color of horn wire from steering column and route it takes
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I recently bought a 1997 Park Avenue and have a couple of repair questions.1) The car is in need of struts/shocks. The rear has air shocks. Before I purchase new air shocks, how do I test the compressor to make sure there is no problem? If the compressor is bad, is it possible to install conversion shocks and do away with the compressor/ air shocks?2) The previous owner says the cruise control does not work. On rare occasions it will work for a brief time during the winter. What things can I check out? Someone suggested checking the brake light switch.
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The cruise control stopped working. The "Cruise" light comes on, but the speed does not hold.Where should I start looking? Where is the control module?
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I have a 2001 Buick Century which is more or less reliable. Last year the fan stopped working on the first (low) setting, but continued to work on levels 2-5. Air came out of all of the vents, using the fan, A/C, or heat with no problems. A few days ago, level 2 stopped. The next day levels 3 and 4 stopped. The fan still works on the highest setting, but it's just starting to be summer in Minnesota and I'm worried that level 5 will stop on the hottest day of the year. Is this a simple fuse problem I can fix myself? Complicated repairs are probably beyond me, but I can do basic repairs.
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I have a 1996 Buick Century that I started having problems with tonight.
As I was driving, I pressed the brake pedal down and it felt like I lost most if not all of the pressure in the brake system and it was a bit difficult to come to a complete stop for the rest of the trip.
I admit that the system hasn't been maintained in quite some time, but I recently filled up the brake fluid reservoir (2-3 weeks ago) after the brake dashboard light came on and the brakes worked just fine after this.
What is wrong with my car, and how do I fix it as cheaply as possible (or is it a cheap fix?)?
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