Buick - Century :: Shut Off For No Apparent Reason While Idling / Engine Races After Restart
Feb 8, 2015
I had this problem a few times in the past. Sometimes my 1992 Buick Century will shut off for no apparent reason while idling. When I restart it, the engine will race for a few seconds before slowing down to normal idle speed. Could this be caused by a glitch in the car's computer?
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I just had the crank sensor replaced in my 1992 Buick Century (3.3L V6) because of abrupt hesitation and failure to restart. Because I had the sensor replaced twice before (10 years ago & 6 years ago), I recognized the symptoms and had my mechanic replace it. After running some local errands, I left the car outside for 2 hours before putting it away in my garage. I cranked it but couldn't restart it. I took the transmission out of park and put it back into park and the car restarted. Could there be some kind of transmission-connected safety switch that's intermittent? My mechanic says it's highly unlikely for the ignition module or computer to be intermittent. Once an electronic circuit malfunctions, it stays inoperable. That's why he replaced the sensor.
Also, what this trouble code means: "26 Quad-driver sense voltage shows a low voltage when battery voltage should be present or if the sense voltage shows battery voltage when a low voltage should be present."
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My morning commute is about 33 miles. After about 30 miles, when I almost reach my destination, my 1992 Buick Century makes an additional noise besides the normal engine, muffler and road noise. It sounds like a BRRRRRRR....., but only when the car is moving, not idling. I thought it could be a temperature- related transmission issue. I noticed it was low on transmission fluid, so I added some. It still makes that noise, but only after I traveled about 30 miles. I didn't notice it last year when my commute was only 16 miles. What could cause it?
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A month ago my check engine light came on so, after checking to ensure the gas cap was screwed on correctly, I did what the manual recommended and took my car directly to the dealership. After paying a diagnostics fee and losing my car for an entire day while they ran tests and contacted Toyota, my dealership told me they couldn't find a problem and just reset the indicator.
Within a few days the light came on again but before I had a chance to take it back to the dealership it went off. Now some 3 weeks later it is on again and I'm wondering what to do.
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The engine on our Ford Expedition (2003) has started quitting for no reason. The engine light does not come on. We might be driving and it just stops or stopped at a light or turning into the driveway and it just turns off. Often it we simply turn it back on and it is fine but occasionally it is difficult to restart.
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I have a 1990 buick lesabre motor is a 3800 and it runs fine until the motor warms up and then when i shut it off it won't restart for about an hour after i shut it off. It's not over heating it has a new fuel pump.
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I have a 2001 Buick Century that started making a noise from what seems to be the engine. It sounds like a jet engine when I accelerate. The noise is still there when I cruise, but it evens out. It is loudest when going between 40 and 50mph. The car is not overheating, and other then the noise it drives fine. My husband at first thought it sounded like the catalytic converter had been stolen, but he rarely knows what he is talking about. What could it be?
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I have the GM shop manual and I have gone through the flow chart for an engine which cranks but does not start. I have confirmed that there is fuel pressure and spark, but the injectors do not fire when cranking. I have gotten to the final troubleshooting step of disconnecting the crank angle sensor connector, jumping A and B terminals on the connector, and momentarily grounding the jumper with a test light. The injectors fire as confirmed using the GM injector test light (in place of an injector). The flow chart conclusion is that the crank angle sensor is bad or misadjusted or the connector is making a bad connection. I have replaced the sensor twice and adjusted it using the GM adjustment tool. The connector terminals appear clean and undamaged. 1989 Buick Century 3.3 liter ...
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2000 Buick Century Custom with 140K miles: Service Engine Light came on. Re;placed gas cap, light still on. Took to dealer who replaced HO2 sensor, light still on. Took to dealer who found no problem but charged $100 for looking. Light still on. Took to dealer who said it needed two major parts. Light still on. Took to another mechanic who could find nothing wrong. Light still on. Is there hope?
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The Buick Century has about 22,000 miles. The Service Engine Soon light has appeared on the dash. The instruction manual is not clear. What would you recoomend? What might cause the light to appear?
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I have an 07 Camry and the alarm keeps going off for no apparent reason. Is there anyway to reset the alarm system itself? If so how and what do I need to do? How to do this.
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My 2009 managed to lose 4 quarts of oil over 200 miles today.
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I tried starting my car today and it didn't want to go. I took out the air intake sensor blew at it and plugged it back in and started it, but it didn't sound the same, the muffler wasn't making as much noise as usual and just sounded like the engine wasn't working the same. After that it started normal and i've been driving for about a week, and today it didn't want to start again so i took out the censor did the same but still didn't start so i put down the clutch revved it a couple times and like magic it worked.
I think i need to change the censor but i'm not sure and i don't want to spend money if i don't have to.
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I own a 2003 BMW 5301 with the sports ,premium and 'M' package. Of late the battery drains for no apparent reason. This happened a few times 2 months ago and I had the battery and alternator replaced. This has again started happening. The car starts promptly in the morning but refuses to start in the evening when I am ready to leave work. It has to be jump started. This does not happen everyday and the BMW service folks have not been able to figure this out.
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Last month I changed the oil and filter in my 1992 Buick Century with 264000 miles. I used a name brand (Citco) of the correct oil, 10W-30, API Service SN. I bought the oil on sale at a local supermarket. Now, I hear a loud tapping sound from the engine, especially when it's cold. It dosen't sound as loud after warm-up. The tapping increases in frequency when I rev up the engine. I don't intend to keep this old car much longer, but is this problem an immediate concern? Could it be a valve problem? Could it Could I have bought some bad oil with a conterfeit label? Other than this noise, the car runs okay.
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I have a 2002 Chrysler Sebring with 116,000 miles and over the past month the engine has shutoff as I am driving and once I park turn the key off and turn on it has started to run again. This has happened about four times and each time it has been difficult starting it after the car has stalled. The most recent time this happened when I went to restart the car, a grinding noise became apparent. The last few times that I have started the car the grinding noise would be heard only to ultimately fade away in about 15 seconds. The check engine light came on and went to get the code and it came back suggesting a problem with the camshaft position sensor, but I don't fee the noise is related to that.
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The other day, in sub zero weather I left my radio and lights on as I ran into the store to grab washer fluid. The engine was turned off, but I did leave the radio on for my buddy.... I was in the store for a max of 5 mins. I get back into the car, go to turn it back on...... and nothing.... ZERO juice.... now I've had the radio on before for a much longer period of time without the engine running and have had no problem.
We ended up jumping the car and it started up with no problem. I let it idle for a bit but then all of the light on my dash came on..... I reved the engine a bit and they all went away.
A few days pass and the car starts up with no problem. Then I get stuck sitting in underground parking, so I turn the car off while I wait for the cars to exit the garage... again listening to music with the car off... go to start and nooooo juice! Being that the car is manual I was able to get it rolling and then popped the clutch..
224,000kms and counting.... all OEM
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My wife just had an issue today on her 2009 base sedan. The TPMS came on for no apparent reason. Tire pressure was good all the way around. Cleared the code, which shut off the light, only to have it come back on 20 mi. later. What the cause could be?
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My aunt came to me the other day about her car not starting and I found that the battery was shot and would not accept a jump start so i replaced that and then yesterday it died again with the new battery so naturally, I replaced the alternator. After swapping the alternator I jumped the car ran it for about 20 mins and told her to follow me to grab some food. When she proceeded to back out the car died again!!!
So I tightened the belt on the alternator a little more, jumped it and let it run a little bit. This time I went through all the basic electronics lights blinkers brakes ect except ac and radio. then i back out and pull back in the parking spot and I was thinking pow it's fixed.
So I turn on the A/C and i notice the sound of the RPMs go down which doesn't concern me too much but when I looked at the RPM gauge it was erratic but the engine wasn't fluctuating with it. So I turned the ac off checked the A/C fuses they were fine. Tried turning the A/C on one more time and this time, RPM gauge stops reading all together and the A/C light was flickering very quickly.
I'm not good with the electronic side of the car but I am leaning towards a very bad grounding issue or short. I have no multi-meter so I haven't read any voltages but I am going to see if I can borrow one from my cousin.
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I Have A 2001 Ram 1500 With The 318 5.2 Engine , Oil Pressure Jumps From 40 To 0 For No Apparent Reason, And Then Lifters Began To Tick. Turn Off Truck And Recrank Oil Pressure Returns To 40 Lbs, Rev Up Engine To 2000 Rpm Or Better And Pressure Goes To 0 Instantly. I Have Replaced Sending Unit, Replaced Oil Pump And Pickup, Changed Oil And Filter Using Dodge Filter, Removed Valve Covers And Intake Cleaned Out All Sludge, Tried 3 Different weights Of Oil, Cleaned Oil Passages, Inspected Oil pump Drive Shaft, Pulled Rear Main Cap And Inspected Bearing , Looked Good, Changed Oil And Filter 3 Times , Engine Is Very Clean. Engine Never Has Low Oil Pressure Either 0 Or 40 Lbs Never 10 Or 20. I Have Heard Others Describe This But Never Heard The Answer . Truck Has 70,000 Miles ,runs And Sounds Perfect When Oil Pressure Is At40. It Can Idle At 40 Lbs Hot, Which Leads Me To Believe Bearing Clearances Are Fine.
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I've noticed on a few occasions (maybe 3 or 4 times total) on my 2005 V8 (about 2.5 months old and 2000 miles) that the brakes seem go into "ABS mode" for no apparent reason. No rain and no snow etc. As I depress the brake normally or even lightly it takes over and reacts like I slammed on the brakes. Then everything returns to normal.
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