My backup lights only work when I have one bulb or the other installed but not both. The other 4 mini lights in the same circuit on the trunk work. The backup lights do not work at all when the headlights are on. Could it be the backup light relay and where is that located? I checked wiring on the trunk and multiple bulbs.
View 5 RepliesThe backup lights don't work and a simple test shows the wires have no power. The bulbs test good. I also checked all the fuses and they are good. Where is the switch located? Also, I searched AutoZone online for the part and get no results.
View 4 RepliesMy car is a 1992 Buick Century with a 3.3 liter V6. My tail lights, parking lights and dashboard lights are out. I checked the fuse in the fuse panel and it's good. The light switch is good, I confirmed it by inserting a voltmeter in the empty fuse socket and turning the switch on and off. The wiring diagrams in my manual are not useful. The diagrams don't include the lighting circuits. Is there another hidden fuse someplace? Could it be a bad relay? If so, where the lamp relays are located?
View 4 RepliesI start the car and everything looks good. I drive 10 feet and the ABS and Brake light come on at the same time. I replaced the "ABS CONTROL MODULE UNIT COMPUTER" that was under the dash by the steering column but that didn't work. Brakes feel firm and strong. Breaks well. What next?
View 19 RepliesUsually, the interior lights ( e.g. over rear doors ) will turn off after a while...but now they stay on as well as the two lights on the rear view mirror.
View 1 RepliesA couple of weeks ago my 2005 Buick century start making a noise when i hit the brakes and all the lights on the dash lit up like a christmas tree. The noise it makes when i hit the brakes is like humming sound and the pedal will get kinda spungy and push in and out, if i keep driving it stops and all the lights come on (abs, trac off, service engine, and sometimes the brake light as if the parking brake is on) after all these lights come on the noises stop and the brake pedal works fine. I was told that the anti lock brake pump was going bad but I didn't realize there was a pump.
View 3 RepliesMy 2000 Buick Century has an issue that whenever it rains really hard, after driving a while the ABS, Trac Off, and Service Vehicle Soon lights come on. I am assuming that part of the electrical connections are getting wet and causing the lights to come on. When there is no rain, obviously the lights don't come on. It's only done it one other time and it did it today. I was just curious what to do to fix it, before I jump into looking at all electrical connections which we all know can be hard to diagnose. By the way, the car has 64,000 miles on it if that makes any difference.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Buick Century that started making a noise from what seems to be the engine. It sounds like a jet engine when I accelerate. The noise is still there when I cruise, but it evens out. It is loudest when going between 40 and 50mph. The car is not overheating, and other then the noise it drives fine. My husband at first thought it sounded like the catalytic converter had been stolen, but he rarely knows what he is talking about. What could it be?
View 2 RepliesReplaced sensor, light stays on.Removed sensor, grounded the probe, light goes out.Replaced antifreeze, bled system twice, no air or oil.Getting desperate. Removed and cleaned battery to body ground strap.Removed and cleaned battery to engine ground strap.Today found out there is no error code in the OBC but the light is still!
View 1 RepliesThere's been an interesting progression of trouble with my 2001 Buick Century:
My heat/AC had been working fine for years. About a year ago, the dial which controls the force of air (off, low, high, max, etc.) broke. But the 'off' and 'max' portions still worked. I could get full blast, or nothing. I didn't do anything, because I could still get what I wanted.
Just yesterday, I switched my heat to max - and nothing! No air comes out at all now. Obviously this is problematic for the upcoming winter.
I drive a 2001 Buick Century. Sometime last month (or maybe the month before), my digital odometer was on the fritz. There's a little sub-partition to my dash that houses my digital odometer as well as the indication as to what gear i'm in (PRND32). So it started fading a little, then on some days it wouldn't light up at all. I know the odometer is still working, because on the days when it would light up, it didn't pick up where it left off, rather it had been working the whole time I couldn't see it. And this started going in and out more and more frequently until now it hasn't lit up in about a month.
So, i take my car into my mechanic for an oil change (just had to guess at how close i was to 3,000 miles) and I ask him about it. He tells me that it'd cost so much in time and parts that I might as well not even fix it.
So now what? I'm fine just driving around without it. I know what gear I'm in without my car having to tell me, and I guess I can just estimate when to get my oil changed, although it's rather inconvenient. But what do I do when I want to sell it or trade it in? The longer I go without knowing my mileage, the farther afield an estimate will be.
You know, what I was thinking is that I really just need someone to run a red light and total my car. Then insurance would cover me and the odometer would be low on my list of worries. I just hope the airbags still work...
I have a 2001 Buick Century, ~120,000 miles that a couple months ago started smelling like gas or exhaust+gas when the heat was turned on. I've changed the cabin air filter. I don't know how much that could have ever worked. I couldn't find a gas leak in the engine compartment, but I didn't give it a really close inspection. Where should I check for the most likely leak? Or could it be more of a problem with the cabin air intake?
View 11 RepliesI have a 2001 Buick Century which is more or less reliable. Last year the fan stopped working on the first (low) setting, but continued to work on levels 2-5. Air came out of all of the vents, using the fan, A/C, or heat with no problems. A few days ago, level 2 stopped. The next day levels 3 and 4 stopped. The fan still works on the highest setting, but it's just starting to be summer in Minnesota and I'm worried that level 5 will stop on the hottest day of the year. Is this a simple fuse problem I can fix myself? Complicated repairs are probably beyond me, but I can do basic repairs.
View 6 RepliesMy current issue is as such: I started my car the other evening after a long day at work to find that when I started the car (I always leave the heater/AC control in bi-level mode with the a/c on with the fan at low or not on at all, unless I need the floor heater or the defroster) the interior of the windshield as well as the side windows instantly became fogged up. It took close to 10 minutes for the windshield to defog. Upon arriving home from work, I checked the reservoir where the coolant is recirculated and found that it was bone dry.
After the vehicle had cooled down, I popped the radiator cap and indeed the radiator fluid level was down. I replaced close to a 3/4 gallon if not a tad bit more of 50/50 mix. The next morning I started the car and the problem was still there and it took a few minutes for the heater to heat the car. Last evening and then again this morning, after the engine cooled to ambient temp, i squeezed the upper and lower hoses and there was still coolant in both hoses and thought this was odd, but I started the car w/o the fan on and the problem seemed to go away, but I noticed it didn't take any time for the car to heat up. Taking all of these things into account, is this a heater core(no coolant in cabin) or water pump problem or simply a bad thermostat?
I own a 2001 Buick Century Limited that has 208k miles on it. A couple days ago I started the car up at a friends house and noticed that it had a loud rough idle and that the check engine light came on. When I drove the car home, the CEL would flash when I accelerated and I could smell something burning. When I released the gas pedal and coasted, the flashing CEL would return back to a solid state but I could still smell the burning. When I would accelerate, the CEL would start to flash again. Whenever I was stopped at a stop sign, the flashing CEL would again be solid and there would be a loud rough idle along with the same burning smell. Am I looking at an engine replacement or an easy fix? One problem or could it be multiple problems?
View 9 RepliesBulbs, wiring and fuses are fine. Backup lights sometimes work for short periods of time if you jiggle the socket on top of the PNP switch. Tried spraying the sockets with wd 40 but did not work. know if cleaning the PNP will resolve this?
View 9 RepliesI screwed up installing LED taillight assemblies in my 2011 SuperDuty and pinched a couple of wires against the body. The result of this (at least I think that this cause) is that my backup lights no longer work - neither the backup lights in the tail light assembly nor the reverse light power on the trailer plug. I have checked the fuses, etc. and nothing. I brought it to a local shop and they could not figure out the problem, either, but said that it was probably the "control module" that got fried when the wires got pinched. They said to take it to the dealer. The questions are, what "control module" might they be referring to, or what to check?
View 1 RepliesProblem with 1157 LED bulbs . I install all 4 light bulbs the tail lights and front turn signal lights the problem is all lights work with the signal lights. but when I turn the head lights the front signal lights don't work. Also the turn signal lights on my dash board both light come on
One more thing if I install the regular 1157 on the front . the LED lights on the back work fine and the from work fine . looks like the front don't like the LED bulbs. I have 87 ranger cab and half or extended cab. v6 2.9
Toyota corolla 2013 automatic gear reverse lights don't work after I installed new stereo it's my fault i shorted 12v positive backup (reverse) light trigger camera stereo v12+ cable to ground while backup (gear R) in place. As a result reserve lights don't work beside gear indicator doesn't show on main screen. I can drive without problem but problem still intact.
I checked all fuses and they are all okay I need to identify problem or possible repair too I only find 2 fuses behind glove box i think they call "instrument panel" there are bunch of cable and underneath of cables there is only 2 rectangle shape fuses I could not see anything else, the other fuse box is in engine compartment i thoroughly tested each small fuses they are all okay is there anything else i forgot to check ?
I attached also instrument panel screen shot ....
I have a Prius 2 (non nav) and would like to get a backup camera installed.
View 1 RepliesHow to easily remove the old one to install new bulb?
View 11 Replies