I have a 98 bravada that is leaking oil from drivers side of engine just above u joints on front driveshaft. pours out on start then stops. does again on stop.what is there to cause?
View 2 RepliesI've been having to add a quart of oil between every 3,000 mile oil change. This is a used 2000 2.5L motor now with about 150,000 miles on it and 317,000 on my truck. I notice the oil is coming from somewhere on the side maybe in a few places. I think the oil plug is dripping a little. I'm going to try an OEM Ford plug because I've changed them several times with aftermarket plugs and they never seal right. I thought it might be the oil pan gasket but it doesn't really look wet around the flange all the way around.
Then I checked higher up thinking it maybe the valve cover gasket which has been replaced and it's drive around the cover. I noticed under the power steering pump bracket it's all wet with oil. It's not the power steering, I've never had to add to it. It appears to be in the middle under the intake. I didn't see anything from the pressure switch. It looks like it's mostly around the pcv valve box. Is there a gasket that leaks there? Or anywhere else that is common to leak? I fixed my transmission pan gasket leak which cleared up some of the mess on the bottom. How hard is it to change that pcv valve box? They call it a crankcase vapor separator where the pcv valve goes.
I seem to be leaking coolant, its not coming from the radiator, and all my hoses seem to be okay as well. I removed the airbox, the leak is on the drivers side by the engine. Where this leaking might be coming from?
View 5 RepliesI've been commuting roughly 100 miles round trip daily for work for the past month or so and other than the need for an oil change (I'm at about 6,000 since the last one, current mileage is 171900), my 98 Bravada has been fine. However, this evening when I was about half-way home, I noticed the car was getting a little resistance on accelerating.
I had wondered if it was the wind and rain I was driving through, but the tachometer was jumping regularly, it was in the lower ranges (between 1-2, maybe a jump to 3). I was still able to maintain speed (up to 60mph, and a struggle to get to 65 - somewhat unusual) - however there was noticeable resistance to acceleration. Once I got home I noticed that the temp gauge was showing less than 150 and the oil was fluctuating between 1/4 and 1/2.
I bought my son his first vehicle, a 98 Bravada. We've had it less than a week and so far the major problem we have come across is the lights in for the gauge cluster in the dash are not coming on. First I thought it was a blown bulb so we replaced that. When we were putting the dash back together, I turned the truck on and turned on the headlights and got nothing. So I jiggled some wires thinking that it might've been a short or a loose wire and still nothing. It was getting dark so my son decided to put everything back together and try again in the morning. When he reconnected the connector for the dome/fog light, everything came back on. But when he moved the dashboard to put it back in place, everything went back out again. Again, I jiggled wires and nothing, not even a flicker. Now there's no lights in the dash and when he turns on the headlights, the radio lights go out along with the compass/MPG gauge located overhead.
View 1 RepliesI have an old 98 Lesabre, and it runs and drives great. When I first got it I had to do the Vacuum line mod on the programmer to get the HVAC to blow out the face vents. That was the best $1.60 and 30 min I spent on a car
That mod still works and was done about 1.5 years ago, the ENTIRE time i have owned the car the temp blinks when I start the car, but the HVAC has always worked fine so I paid no attention to it. That is until 3 weeks ago when I had to replace my intake manifold. I disconnected the battery without turning the system to "off". I have been doing a bunch of reading online, and it seems I may have thrown the system's sync off by doing this.
Right now my problem is this, colder air coming from the pass side then the driver’s side. When I start the car it will seem synched for a few seconds, then it will start blinking and both vents will go FULL COLD, eventually it brings the temp back up the d-side gets hotter than the p-side. I have done the following:
- gone through AT LEAST 50 on/off cycles
- Removed the 9c fuse to try to reset
- Pulled down the glove box door and watched both the upper and lower blend doors go through there whole range of movement (which they do)
- Tried to re-sync by pushing the temp full hot, then full cold a few times in a row.
Besides getting this scanned by a tech 2, which is my last resort, is there anything else I can do?
Bought a 98 last week and noticed an issue a couple of days ago. The car seems to be leaking power steering fluid from right in front of passenger front tire. Looks like it's coming down from somewhere behind the bumper, just not sure what line are over there. I had to replace one of the clamps on the line below the ps bottle and it seemed to be fine for 2 days.
The weird part is that it doesn't seem steady. I had the car parked in one spot for an hour the first time I noticed the problem and the wet spot was about a foot in diameter. But then I drove the car last night and left it parked in the driveway for hours and nothing. This morning when I was leaving there was a puddle about 4" in diameter.
I've currently have 114,000 miles on this Pontiac Bonneville and I replaced the intake manifold last summer. Recently, I have been having issues with the intake manifold leaking a fluid on the right side of it (facing the engine) and been having dirt or some other type of fluid mixing in my fluid tank. The leak has been causing some smoking issues. Also, when I start the car in the morning white smoke comes out of the back of it. Where I need to start so that I can get this fixed. I'm assuming something went wrong in the replacement.
View 6 RepliesMy 89 735il is leaking coolant from under the driver's side bottom of the car. Is this a heater core problem? Temperature gauge displayed hot temp, then coolant started to leak out...
View 14 RepliesI have been told that the EX has a problem with the windshield leaking on the drivers side, and it does, so does replacing the windshield fix this? Or is it something else that requires 50lbs of silicone...
View 7 RepliesIf the top is leaking on both sides by the side top front windows, is that expensive to repair? I think it might need a weather strip. In other words, when it rains, the car will leak on my thigh and or the passengers thigh.
View 12 RepliesThe wife's 2008 Prius has apparently been collecting water on the driver side (front and back) floors for some time. Allegedly, it doesn't have to be raining, or even wet outdoors at all for it to accumulate. The fluid is not engine coolant or windshield washer fluid; clear, colorless, and tasteless (yeah, I did taste it) liquid, totally saturating, and partially filling the floor pans on the left side, while leaving the area directly under the driver seat dry. There seems to be some dampness on the passenger rear carpet, but it's nothing like the driver's side. The undercarriage has plastic shielding of some sort covering the areas of the floor where the water has built up, so I can't immediately see any drain plugs, or holes where water may be coming in. Before I start tearing things apart, I thought I would run the strange problems through the forum, and see what you all might come up with. I've seen some reports of possible A/C drain issues in the passenger front floor, but this is definitely left side. Oh, yeah....there's a stink along with it, but I'm assuming that may be mold caused by the standing water, or something totally unrelated; but I thought it bore mentioning.
View 19 RepliesI hope this car isn't going to turn out to be a regret.. I've had it a couple weeks and have nothing but minor issues.. Now the rear drivers side tire is leaking air. I really don't want to bring a car with 500 miles to the dealer, I don't trust them. I could take the tire off and bring it to a tire shop but what could be the cause? I have no vibrations so I wouldn't assume the wheel. From that I can tell it doesn't look like anything is sticking out of it..
View 7 RepliesLeaking red fluid near tire on drivers side. Mostly when AC is running. 2 mechanics have looked and cannot stop it. Has 108,000 miles n does use coolant when AC is running.
View 7 RepliesNot my Elantra, but an '05 Santa Fe 2.7 ... I have a fuel leak from the driver's side of the tank. It has continued leaking while the vehicle has been parked with about a quarter tank of gas, even after 8 hours. I can see where it is leaking from - a quarter size depression in the tank - but I think this is some sort of plastic pan, not the tank itself.
Is there is a plastic pan under the tank?
If so, does it cover just the bottom half?
If it is a plastic pan, is the tank itself plastic or metal?
If it is plastic I don't see how it could develop a leak, so is it possible for the leak to be at the top of the tank due to a fuel line problem (maybe some mysterious syphon condition)?
I searched the forum and leaking fuel tanks don't seem to be a common problem. My usual parts store doesn't even have a listing for a replacement fuel tank.
My driver side floorboard is leaking something. I am not sure what this could be. There is a huge stain that looks like a burn almost, and around the hole is a brown stain that keeps getting bigger. I lift up my floor mat and it is soaked. Could this be my air conditioner leaking or could it be something more serious? 2002 Mitsubishi Galant ES....
View 2 RepliesWhat could possibly be leaking water on my drivers side floorboard below my dash? I could understand if it was on the passenger side but driver?
View 5 RepliesI had a slight head butting contest with a deer. My driver side AIR BAG BLEW OUT. I want to replace the air bag. ( I live in N.C. air bags are NOT required) so I don't care if it is functional. I just want it there un-blown, for looks. I've been told that a special tool is required to remove the old one ( and the one in a salvage truck I've located). What tool I need? Or what it might be called or where I can get one????
View 6 RepliesMy driver side rear strut/shock has started leaking recently (I've attached a pic). Its counterpart on the rear passenger side is bone dry. My Prius is a 2010 with 78,000 miles, mostly city driving.
View 19 RepliesPast couple of weeks, when i drive car 45+ speed,I can hear wind sound from inside car even after closing all windows , i am getting sounds from next to driver seat upper side speakers, I tried 4 to 5 repair shops in mira mesa(san diego).
View 14 RepliesSo I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra 5 speed. The driver side cv axle seal started leaking a few months ago and I finally got around to repairing it. Everything went relatively smooth until I got to replacing the seal...
The problem is, it will NOT fit over the cv axle. It just won't. When the seal is installed, not matter how much force I put on the axle it will not go in. Also, I even pulled the seal back out and tried to put it onto the axle out of the car and there is no way it is going on. This is the third seal (done the rounds to through the big name parts stores) and no go.
Now, some quick car back story, I generally do all of my own repairs, but over the winter in the midst of a family tragedy I had a friend (professional mechanic with a shop) do a bunch of work to the car. He replaced the boot and joint that goes into the transmission (he did not replace the entire cv axle assembly for some reason). What I am beginning to think is that he replaced it with the wrong part.
Now, what I am wondering, is this even possible? Is it possible that it could fit and work perfectly yet be wrong? This also appears to be what broke the original seal. The inner portion of the seal was totally blown out in a circle, but perfectly, like it was crushed or cut out, and I am wondering if this happened due to having extreme force applied to it (possibly when he reinstalled it?)
That, or is it just extremely difficult / next to impossible to get these seals on? Even with both parts out of the car, stretching and pushing down on the seal (oiled it up as well to see if that would work) with all my might yields no results.
The leak was not there for the first month or so that I got the car back and then showed up. I have put about 5k miles on the car since I got it back. With Monday quickly approaching, I am wondering if I should just blow the crap out of my budget and pick up a new cv axle? I could at least have them pull one and let me see if the seal fits, I suppose.