Bonneville :: Cranks Like It Wants To Start But Will Not
Apr 2, 2008
92 Bonneville SSE that has been giving us some problems. 2 weeks ago I left the house and upon turning left the car just died. I had a horrible time getting it restarted. I finally did and drove it home. Put some gas in it, thinking it was low, it is very sensitive to this and started it up and it ran fine. The next week driving home, turned around another corner and it died again. I would get it started and it would drive 50-100 yards and die again. Finally made it home and has been driving fine until today. Went to work and came out to go home tonight and it would not start. It cranks like it wants to start but will not. After some troubleshooting, there seems to be no spark coming from the coils. The coils were replaced 2 years ago, along with the module and the MAF sensor.
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1995 Pontiac Bonneville cranks but wont start.
I've replaced the crank sensor and also the cam sensor with no luck, the car cranks with no start, when I used starter fluid the car runs, when i stop using fluid it shuts off what could it be.
Only has 38,000 Miles on it.
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It gives me a code "122 Throttle Position Low", I replace TPS, but after clearing codes, the same code comes back & car still won't start.
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I was surprised this morning by my 2000 Pontiac Bonneville not starting. All the other devices and systems activated but the engine made no attempt to turn over at all. It's a rebuilt title but the car has shown no signs of difficulty except a small bit of sputtering last night when it was unfortunately running on fumes and the service light activating after the gas tank was filled. My limited experience and lack of funds makes me hope this is a blown fuse as that would be relatively quick and painless (so I understand it) to fix but a friend has suggested it may be the starter and I am not foolish enough to believe it couldn't be something even worse. Of course I want to be appraised of more serious concerns in case I need to start making long term plans to restore my mobility.
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I don't drive the truck much anymore but over time my MPG has gone to total crap...about 10mpg around town...and that's baby-ing it.
Now it suddenly takes many cranks to finally start on a first start. (cold or warm days)....
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I bought a 2002 Camry with a burnt engine one it for a project. I put a 2005 Camry engine on it, and changed ecm, ignition switch, dash harness and the harness that goes from the ecm down to the rest of the engine parts( transmission and sensors and such) all from a 2005 model. But I didn't change the other wiring that goes along the fire wall. We first tried to start the car I wont start at all. No even crank.
Checked spark = good
Checked fuel pressure = no fuel pressure.
But when I use the ecm from the 2002 I have fuel but not spark. So I open the the fuel relay and manually closed it, then the car starts and runs but zero throttle. My question is: do I have to take it to toyota to get it reprogrammed or there there is something else I can do before that.
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We have a 2001 passat 1.8T It has had problems starting up for over 1 year. My wife drives the car so I only notice issues with it when we go together in her car. When I first noticed the problem, it was that it took a couple more cranks before it would start and didn't always happen. Now I notice that it won't start on the first try no matter how long it cranks, try again and it starts right up. The only thing I have not done as far as tuneup is the PCV valve that I have not figured out where it is.
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Hit a pole hole blew out passenger front tire, rim gone, car went dead , car cranks over will not start, what my be wrong. no under carriage damage...
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About a month ago I went to start my car and it started up and died and now it won't start at all. All it does is crank and crank and crank. My vagcom say j271 relay open circuit . so I replaced the 428 relay and it still doesn't start. I'm also not getting any epc or cel light with the key in the on position which is strange to me. But if I swap the 428 relay with the 100 relay right next to it I get all the dash lights like I'm suppose to but as soon as I try to start it the two lights go out and won't come back on until I pull the relay out and put it back in. I hate obd2 so much sometimes.
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First time ever, my Passat has stranded me. Won't start. 120K. Cranks fine. Fuel pump fuse is OK. Almost new plugs. New fuel filter. No codes. Almost a full tank of gas. No smell of fuel in engine compartment. Disconnect MAF, no difference. This started over a week ago. The car would not start on the first try. Always on the second try. Once started the car ran fine, did not stall or hesitate. Then, just once, it almost did not start; I think it was the fourth try it finally started. After that I replaced the fuel filter, just in case. It's been fine for several days. Now this morning, no go
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My 2000 grand am gt with 3.4 cranks won't start. i was out yesterday car ran fine, stopped at restaurant for about 2 hrs. came out car started but took 15 seconds to come up to correct idle. went home car ran fine on way home, about 15 miles. parked it and went inside, came out 20 minutes later car cranks but wont start.
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This 2000 Volvo S40 19T wont start. New Battery Starter bench tested (Good) New alternator (Bad diode) Cleaned connections on battery, starter, and alt. The car cranks for half a second, just enough to move the timing belt about an inch or two. But to get it to do this, you have to turn the key from positions 1 to 3 quickly. If you sit in position 2 for any amount of time, then position 2 has no effect on the engine at all.
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95 GMC Sierra 1500. My truck cranks, but it won't start. If I push on the gas it delivers fuel and kind of starts, but it dies out immediately. I considered it to be a fuel pump issue at first, but I had my fuel pump replaced about a year ago so I do not think that is the problem, but I am not sure what else it could be. I am looking for some troubleshooting steps so I can narrow down the issue and get my hands dirty working on my truck.
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My 2006 Sonata LX cranks and sometimes starts. Usually it doesn't. I checked the spark plugs for a spark, which it has.
I attached a noid light to the fuel injector, and it flashes. I sprayed starter fluid into the throttle and the car starts and stays running.
I ran a computer diagnostic on it and it reads this: ""Monitor camshaft position in the full retard condition or during CWT control. Camshaft switching out of 109 to 141 degrees in full retard position, 70 to 140 degrees CRK during CWT control."
I'm not mechanically inclined, but what to do up to now. Now I'm at a complete loss as to what is wrong or what to do next.
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This is my son's car. He said it started losing power and then finally just died on the side of the road. The first thing I thought of was change the fuel filter. changed it yesterday and it still won't start (cranks with no problem). I used my code scanner on it and it showed three codes: P0300 / P0301 / P0305. I really don't think it's spark plugs or plug wires.
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'12 GLS with 45k on the odo. Keyed ignition, not a push button.
Did a 45000 mile recommended service, oil change with full synthetic, and throttle body service (cleanout) On Friday (July 3).
Drove it 70 miles on Saturday (July 4) with no problems...35 miles, sat for 10 hours, drive 35 more. 85 degrees outside and 60% humidity.
Drove it today (July 5) for ten miles, sat for 2 hours and 30 minutes. 87 degrees outside and 50% humidity.
Attempted to start after the 2.5 hours off. Starter cranked, but motor never caught and started. Tried five times. Nice crank (battery strong). Motor Still didn't catch. Third time motor almost caught, but it sputtered out.
Sixth time I let it crank for 7 seconds and it finally caught and started. CEL illuminated and stayed on all the way to the dealer (<1 mile from where I was) where left it for Monday diagnostics.
Spark should have been good.
Fuel and air were the unknown. TB service on Friday might make air the culprit. I also saw the high pressure fuel pump issue people reported. Not happy about having to possibly shell out 800-1100 for that! Also read about the oil starvation on the bearings, but the car exhibited no oil starvation symptoms (rattle, loss of power, etc).
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I have an 01 Elantra GLS, automatic.
The initial problem started 3 months ago. The car would surge at highway speeds intermittently, but not throw any codes. It would only happen every couple of weeks.
First I replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter. The car seemed ok at first, but eventually bucked while driving at hwy speeds.
Next I replaced the fuel regulator, which is located in the tank, if I am correct.
The problem continued. Next, I replaced the throttle position sensor. Again the car would run as normal, but soon enough it did the same thing. In addition, it also wouldn't always start on the first try. Pretty quickly it wouldn't start at all.
I was able to get it started and drive it home, however the car had no power and seemed like it would stall if i pressed an the accelerator too much.
I had to replace the starter next, and I also replaced both the crank position sensor and the cam position sensor.
I do believe the engine was flooded at some point. I was able to get it to start, but it still ran rough. I replaced the plugs twice. The first set I replaced looked pretty dark. I suspect it was because of all the cranking but no fire.
The last time I got it to start I did get a misfire code for cylinders 1&4, and it still runs rough and has no power. After shutting the engine off, I was unable to get it started again. That is when I put in the second set of plugs.
I have verified that the injectors are getting power at the same time as the plugs. I have ohmed out the primary and secondary sides of both coil packs and they are the same and within specs. I have also ohmed out the injectors and they are also all the same and within range. I have verified 12v power to the coil packs and injectors.
I have ohmed out the plug wires and they appear to be good. the resistance increases with the length of the wires. Is it possible that I have lost compression in cylinders 1&4 because of flooding the engine?
PS. The mileage is 155k
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My wife has a 00 passat . The car cranks but wont start. Has new battery.
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When I turn the key to start the engine, it makes the sound (I don't know what to call it) that it makes before the engine actually starts but it just keeps doing that. The dash has the battery light on in red so I think that might be the problem. It also flashed "STOP" at me on the dash so I stopped fiddling with it.
The dealership is only a few blocks away but they are closed until tuesday. What is usually the problem in this case? I know almost nothing about how cars work.
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Ok so i bought a 1994 celica GT from a police auction the other week and it wouldn't start so we went ahead and put a new fuel pump in it then we put new spark plugs in it. When removing the spark plugs i saw there was oil on them. My friend suggest we do a motor swap cause he thinks its a blown head gasket. Could this be an easy fix or should i go through with the swap?
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I have a 2008 r32 that was always 100% reliable until now. One owner, no wrecks, 90k miles, all services done by the dealer and the car is in perfect condition-except it won't start. I noticed symptoms a few weeks ago - a little longer cranking time to catch and then it slowly got worse. More tires at cranking until it would catch and run. Had it to the local dealer- 3 Rivers VW, they checked it out and said there were no codes -they said after talking to VW tech to disconnect the battery to "reset" the system.
It worked for two days and then it completely died- I think their "repair" ($200 in diagnostic time) was a waste. Two days later complete zero-cranks but won't start- flat bedded to dealer again this time they have the car for ten days! First they replace the ignition switch (said it was worn/loose) , then the battery ground strap in the trunk- said it showed to much resistance (4.5 ohms), they then called and said it still wasn't starting right-need to keep it for another day. Last they replaced a relay - part number 1KO-951-253. They declared it fixed! Car started for ONE day now nothing again. Searched - crank sensor, fuse, coil packs, etc- but no solid leads.
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