Bonneville :: Slight Jolt When Go To Shift Into Rev From Park
Sep 13, 2011
My car has always done this since I've had it. When i go to shift into rev. from park, i get a slight jolt. It also does from park to drive and so on. Also, when I am driving and the transmission shifts, I also get a little bit of lag. I really hope my transmission isn't slipping. It is using a little bit of fluid but I am not 100 percent on that. Would doing a flush/ filter replacement work? I really know nothing about stuff like transmissions, so on.
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So my automatic accent with 82000 KM is doing some funny things. The first, is occasionally when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear, it will shift, and then almost shift again with a bit of a jolt (double shift?). The second, is when in 4th gear, when at 2000 rpm, it will jerk, almost like if it shifts yet there is nothing to shift too (4th is the highest gear). What is going on here?
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I just started idling high in park and while driving I cleaned the throttle body and the ics but did not work I pulled the ics out and had some one turn the key on and off and the ics plunger does not move I can feel the ics motor moving but the plunger does not move while i had the ics out I pushed a rag in the ics hole to control the idle and the idle came down but the ics plunger still doe not move would that mean the ics is bad?
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My car was running fine. I drove it 2-3 miles city & freeway a week ago to make sure. I was going to lend it to a friend and handed him the keys at a different location. When I got home he showed me that he was unable to move the car out of Park. I got in and the motor started fine. I checked and the battery was showing at the normal level,but I too could not budge the car out of Park. That was a few days ago.
Today I went out to start the car up and to my surprise, the battery is completely drained. The battery is only about 17 months old. I previously had had the motor rebuilt a couple of years ago and the car hasn't been driven but 2-3 thousand miles since.
What the problem may be? What kind of mechanic should look at it? (the friend admitted to pushing buttons but since I wasn't there I don't know if that was before he tried to move out of Park or after).
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Another problem with Bonne. My transmission has a very hard shift intermittently. The car has approximately 102,000 miles. The shop says it needs 2 new solenoids(1-2 & 3-4). The cost is going to be about $1050. I've read of a pressure control valve causing similar problems but not 2 solenoids. When the problem occurs all the shifting is hard in all gears.
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1992 Buick Park Avenue, Base. For awhile now I've had trouble shifting into park from other gears. Sometimes, it'll flow right into park without trouble. Other times, I have to work it, to kind of baby it in. However, it simply will not shift into park from reverse. Period. If I'm in reverse and want to park, I have to go into drive, neutral, etc, and then try to move it into park.
A mechanic I know looked at the neutral safety switch and thought it could be causing the problem. We figured it wasn't in the steering column or the cable to the switch because if we disconnect the cable, you can slide that lever all day long. So I purchased a new neutral safety switch and had him install it, but the same problem is there. Actually, let me clarify: while it was in his garage, with the old switch, it would no longer go into park at all, regardless (kind of decided to just stop altogether). At least with the new switch we can baby it into park, but it is basically back to where it was last week. He mentioned it might be deeper in the transmission, but that's out of his league.
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Today, without explanation the shift indicator on the dash on my 98 Passat Wagon highlights all gears. When you shift to any gear. . . . the display does not change. Further, shifting is rough from 'park.'
I noticed this problem after looking at all the fuses to see why the radio was not powering up. I have checked fuses. . . . and unplugged the battery and plugged it back in.
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About three weeks ago I noticed a slight shudder in my 2008 Ford Taurus with app. 75,000 miles (automatic). It did not come from the steering wheel, but the car itself seemed to be shaking, but only slightly. Like someone who's had too much caffeine holding out an unsteady hand kind of shudder. It was going in for an oil change anyway, so I had my mechanic check it out, even thought the shudder was gone the next day. It came back, for a few moments while the mechanic was driving. He couldn't tell what was causing it, but said not to worry.
Two days later when I was in the car for the first time that day the car jerked when I put it in reverse out of park. I checked the transmission fluid, and, sure enough, it was about a quart low. All symptoms went away. I took it back in to double check that there was no leak and that everything seemed in good working order. The car was given the all-clear.
Then this week the shudder returned, again, only sometimes. It doesn't seem related to temperature, distance driven, or weather. And the maddening thing is that it only does it sometimes. I checked the transmission fluid again and it is still in the safe zone.
Two days ago, after being parked overnight, the car shook very noticeably for about ten seconds the first time I switched it out of park, first into reverse, then into drive. This was different to the other shudder (I know, seriously). This was a shake, like the bass in a super strong stereo was cranked. Then it stopped and the car drove just fine. I parked it for twelve hours then switched the gears again. Nothing out of the ordinary happened.
Today it had no issue when I first switched gears, but while I drove (for about a half an hour) that original slight shudder was there. This time at all speeds, not just low ones. I went where I needed to go, drove it again about four hours later and it was fine. No shudder, nothing and this drive went through road work with stop and go traffic as well as some time on a highway at speeds up to 55mph. I drove it another time after that, and again, no symptoms. Finally, I drove to the store. The shudder had returned. I parked, shopped for about 15-20 minutes, returned to the car, and it hesitated to accelerate as I pulled out of the spot. It did not jerk or seem to try to catch up. It simply delayed, but accelerated smoothly.
I parked again and let it rest for about 10 minutes, started it up, and no trouble at all. Even that weird shudder was gone. I think this car is toying with me. I'm taking it back to the mechanic, but the trouble is that it doesn't always have these symptoms. I drove it Thursday on a two hour trip and back again with no issues at all. This might make it difficult for the mechanic to diagnose, but at least it's a guy I trust. There are no warning lights on, no smells (unless they are faint as I don't smell things well), and no strange sounds.
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I have a high milage (210K) '07 2.4L which has a slight engine rattling noise at idle RPM at cold and operating temps, in gear or park. It is a fairly constant noise at idle but does vary a little. Otherwise, engine/tranny operate beautifully with no obvious problems.
I am concerned this could be a timing chain/tensioner related issue although I also wonder if it may be some other component. I have not been able to determine the source or location of the sound.
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So I drove my phaeton home today and when I pressed the button on the gear leaver and moved it to shift into park it would not move past neutral and sometimes reverse. The button on the gear lever got stuck in and cannot be moved out of the pressed position... because of this I removed the shifter, and the wooden panel. The plastic piece at the top of the gear shifter has broke off and I cannot figure out how to get into park and the car will not let my key go...
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I have the 5.3L FLEX Fuel with 98K miles. I have purchased this 2nd hand and having a slight idle stumble when in park as well as in drive @ a stop light...etc. If i am under way, the vehicle runs flawlessly. When i am idling with the brake on or in park, there is a slight stumble that is driving me crazy. I have replaced the high dollar IRIDIUM plugs but did not replace the wires...they looked fine. I did clean the throttle body. I get fuel from different places and it does not make a difference. I have not cleaned the fuel system professionally but I have used OTC additives such as SeaFoam. No codes are exhibited on a diagnostic computer or any updates available for that matter.
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So I am hoping this is an easy fix and I'm just missing something. I have a 2012 VW Passat, automatic transmission. My boyfriend, who knows nothing about VW's decided he was going to 'take care' of my 12v's which don't work, they never have since I bought the car at the end of Nov 2014. I found a penny in one of them, probably someone used that area for their change and it dropped in. Regardless they have never worked. I'm actually taking it in for an oil change the end of the week and planned on having the dealer fix it then since I have a warranty still.
I tried a while back, bought some new fuses, but could never find a definite fuse map for my car and wasn't so worried about it that I wanted to risk causing more problems. Anyway, he decided to check my fuses by pulling every one . Now my car won't shift out of park and the dashboard has the ESC light and the engine MIL light are both on and solid. The tire pressure monitoring system Malfunction light is blinking. Just fyi....I did do a 'soft' restart by unhooking the battery, and checked that the brake lights are working. Not sure that these things are even relevant but I was reading a few things and this is as far as I've got.
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I have a 1989 F-250 with 90,000 miles. Fixed steering wheel. When I first start up all lights in and out, radio, heater, wipers, etc. work. When I shift into park everything stops. Dash gauges do work always. Orange "Rear Antilock" warning light is on. If I shutdown, and restart nothing works. So, everything works on initial startup, but not on later startups. No problem restarting and a good charge is showing. If I start it the next morning, all is well until I put it into gear.
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I have a 2011 Sorento LX AWD 4 cylinder autotomatic with just under 14,000 miles. Twice in the last couple weeks I have been unable to shift into park. The hill descent assist and traction control lights come on and I can't move the shifter past neutral. If I restart the car in neutral the lights go off and I can put it in park.
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A friend is having trouble to move his car after he lost his keys. How do you go about shifting the car out of Park? It is a 2008 passat 2.0 Auto,,,,,
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Gears won't shift from park. What's wrong? Is it the neutral safety switch?
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Two times today I had my shifter stick in park. I hopped in the car to go get my kid and everything was fine. I got to the house to pick him up, turned off the car and went to the door and then came back, hopped in the car and turned it on. Went to shift it out of park and it would start to move to the right a little but wouldn't budge out of park. I checked to make sure everything was OK and couldn't get it out of park. I turned the car off and turned it back on and it came right out of park, no problems at all.
We stopped by Sonic to get some food, leaving the car running, and when it was time to leave the car shifted out of park no problem. Made one more stop by the grocery store, leaving him in the car with the car running like at the previous stop, this time when I got back in the car it wouldn't shift out of park again. I stopped and restarted the car about three time, like what had worked before, and finally after about the third time I got it out of park.
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I have a 2014 Prius C and for the last month or so it's sometimes difficult to shift from P. I always park car with handbrake. It's specially difficult if I push down hand brake before stepping on the brakes and car shifts a little while on park. Car has 35,000km.
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On my 2002 sometimes when I come to a stop after rolling around with the ICE off, then right after I shift in Park the ICE starts up. Why would it do that? Is this a bug or is it normal?
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I have a 2002 Pontiac Sunfire 2.4L 4 door (AT) with 132K miles on it. I have been having a little bit of difficulty for a year or so with the key not always wanting to turn without jiggling it a bit, since I've had cars before with this issue, I just fiddle with it till it turns.
A few weeks ago, I turned it on, and though the engine was running, it prevented me from shifting out of park, then I noticed that even though the engine was running, the AC wasn't working, and the gauges were not working. I even revved the engine a bit to make sure that my ears were not fooling me with the engine running, discussed it a bit with my husband (in passenger seat), then turned it off. While discussing whether we should get his keys to take his car, then I tried it again. It turned over, ran just fine and I forgot about it as a one-off anomaly. (Note: I never keep more than 4 keys and a few plastic key fobs for the grocery stores on my key ring, because I don't want the weight to mess up the ignition. I have a second key ring for my work keys that is kept separate.)
Last Friday, I'm getting ready to come home to start my one week vacation, and it did it again. So, I turned it off, waited a couple seconds, and tried to start it again. I saw the "Theft Deterrent" light on the dashboard and tried to turn the ignition off. It wouldn't turn off at all. It stayed running the whole hour until the tow truck showed up, and I gave myself a blister trying to get the ignition to turn off.
I verified is the system in my car here
[URL]................
MODEL YEAR(S): SUNFIRE 2000 -2003
KEY: N/A
T-HARNESS: GM-7
IMMOBILIZER: GM's PASSLOCK 2 ANTI-THEFT System, Requires: 791 Bypass Module
The tow truck driver pulled the fuel pump fuse to get the car to shut off, which occurred to me just about the same time that she did it. Then she disconnected the shifter linkage, so it could be put in neutral to tow it. As it was now 10PM by the time I got home, all I was worried about was running the battery down since it was still "on". I disconnected the battery and came in to wait til the morning to start researching.
Now, I discover that I should not have disconnected the battery. I wonder if it could be the magnet inside the ignition that is preventing it from turning off. It did feel like there was something inside preventing it from inserting completely and possible for the key to be pulled out while in the on position.
Because of the airbag, I'm very reluctant to try to replace the ignition switch myself. I know when I'm in over my head, and this is one of those times.
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I have a 2002 Golf GLS. About a week ago I was driving around like a raped ape and spilled some soda down the gear shifter. I cleaned it up and didn't think anything of it. Recently, now that it's been getting colder out I found that my car doesn't want to shift out of park when I turn it on. No worries, just did the ("Step on the brake pedal five times,
hold the brake pedal down, start the car, shut off the car, turn the key a quarter turn, move the shift lever between neutral & drive, start the car and then you can move it into drive.") and shifted into gear fine.
[URL]............................
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