Another problem with Bonne. My transmission has a very hard shift intermittently. The car has approximately 102,000 miles. The shop says it needs 2 new solenoids(1-2 & 3-4). The cost is going to be about $1050. I've read of a pressure control valve causing similar problems but not 2 solenoids. When the problem occurs all the shifting is hard in all gears.
View 5 RepliesI have a 05 expedition and when it goes to shift from 2nd to 3rd the engine revs up and shifts hard all other gears shift fine. What can this issue be and is it a easy fix?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 Bonneville. Just recently the doors will lock and unlock on their own. The controls(windows/mirror) and lock on the drivers side works intermittently. The window and locks on the passenger side work correctly. At least I haven't found a time they don't work. Coincidentally, things started acting up after the drivers side widow was left open and a little rain came in. I have removed the mirror/window control panel from the drivers side, unplugged the connector, cleaned and put electrical grease on the contacts.. I did the same thing with another connector I could reach inside the door panel.
View 3 RepliesThis is on my 7.3PSD. I've observed that the 1-2 gear shift drops about 1,000 RPMs and takes a good half second or longer to do so when given a lot of accelerator pedal input. And then the 2-3 shift is a very quick and harsh shift.
If I am accelerating gently the 2-3 shift is as unnoticeable as the 1-2 shift is quick. Is the slow 1-2 shift causing the trans to protect itself and affecting the 2-3 shift? And if so, what do I do to resolve all of this? I changed the trans fluid a week ago and there is no change.
Could my brake issue be related to my transmission problem? Neither are constant. Brake problem= sometimes the brake pedal feels hard, like there's no power brakes (I drove a car once. ..looong time ago. .. that had no power brakes or steering) but it will kick in after a short distance. Transmission prob= seemingly unrelated, is a problem shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. This has happened maybe a 1/2 dozen times, the first time and mostly when in heavy commute traffic and when going between 1st and 2nd gear because of the slow commute speed, but also at other times when not in lengthy slow commutes. When it doesn't shift, the odometer doesn't work (shows only dashes) and an engine light comes on (the sprocket/gear looking one). Usually the transmission will eventually shift and the light goes off.
I read that the brake problem might be a vacuum hose problem? Something about a booster? Is this dangerous? or is it like having a car w/ no power brakes? Going to have my transmission looked at this week. Read on another site about dropping valve seats on this year car. If there's a major transmission problem, I'm wondering if it's worth fixing? I changed, timing belt, water pump, front and rears brakes, tires. 143,000 miles.
1997 Ranger extended cab, 222k mi., 4 cyl, standard transmission. Shifting got worse until it finally died and the mechanic replaced the clutch "kit" and slave cylinder.
It still fights back going into 1st, 2nd, and reverse. But it is intermittent. If I put it in neutral, depress the clutch, and start the vehicle, then, after a few seconds wait, when I try to go into 1st (or reverse), it fights me back, forcing me to pause and apply about twice the pressure I should need to go into gear. When I go forward in 1st, and am ready to shift to 2nd, it fights back so that I have to pause just a bit and apply more pressure than I should for it to go into 2nd gear. 3rd, 4th, and overdrive are FINE. Also, the clutch seems to disengage about halfway down, where I was expecting it to disengage after only 10 -20% depression.
The mechanic doesn't see the problem (or won't admit it). Is there an adjustment to make the clutch disengage with only 10-20% depression instead of the 50%? Is that something I should be worrying about?
Is there some other problem? Like maybe the synchromesh mechanism in the transmission itself not bringing the transmission rotor to engine speed soon enough (wear on the synchromesh)?
When it was new, it went into ALL gears with ease, no fighting back, and it starrted doing this after about 150k miles. Now, at 222k mi., even with a new clutch, plate, throughout bearing, and slave cylinder, it still seems partially stuck going into 1st, 2nd, and reverse.
I just don't want to start replacing things until I can get a correct diagnosis as to what is causing the problem.
Having issues with speed sensors on the transmission in their 2012 Elantra? My Elantra has 201K km. Transmission will intermittently shift harshly or sluggishly between all gears. If I turn the vehicle off and restart it it will go back to normal, sometimes for weeks at a time before another occurrence. Also after long periods of driving when the vehicle comes to a stop, say for instance at a red light, when brakes are applied the car will gently lunge forward or flutter. No engine codes.
View 6 RepliesI get a hard shift into second gear, it jerks into 2nd but not all the time. I only notice it after driving on the freeway for several miles. It has 60,000 original miles. Service Engine Soon light come on after the hard shifts with a transmission fault code. I reset the Engine light and let it set 20 or so minutes and it shifts like new.
1997 CHEVROLET TRUCK S10 2WD
6 Cylinders 262 X 4.3L SFI
Automatic
I own two of the most hated cars on this show, a Renault Alliance and a Peugeot 505 V6. On the 505, the transmission was shifting pretty roughly, it was knocking hard. I bought another 505 for spares that was shifting smoothly. So this summer, I decided to spend 4 weekends on hard labor and I swapped the ZF automatic transmission from the rough car to the good one. After all that job, I didn't notice any real difference. So I guess it was the torque converter that I left on the engine?
Anyway, I decided that it will stay like that because I will rather take a bullet than drop this tranny again. Now yesterday, it was -30?C outside, after 3 months of storage outside, just for fun, I tried to start it. It started right on! So I let it warm up for few minutes then went for a little ride. Big surprise, it shifts very smoothly now in cold weather... So what's wrong? Wrong type of oil? I filled up with the one suggested in the owners manual!
'87 Peugeot 505 STX V6
'87 Renault Alliance DL
'70 Renault 16
'97 Volks Transporter T4 (Eurovan diesel).
2009 Kia Sorento. The Transmission was replaced twice last week and the week before. For the same problem. 50K miles. Auto Transmission...
I have a hard shift between 3rd & 4th gears, I have had the transmission replaced twice. Could it be something else?
When I had other repairs done they told me that problem was in the number 2 cylinder and it was an internal problem. It was out of their league. I called Honda dealership, they had a girl on the phone and she said she couldn't give me a quote I would have to pay 85. to find out what it was. I don't think she knew what she was talking about. i need a quote how much this should be to fix it before I pay 85. for something that maybe thousands of dollars to fix. The car jerks when it is going into another gear especially in the 1st and 2nd gear. It like shoots off. Jerks and then kicks. If ya know what I mean. Like a transmission slip but I had that checked, that wasn't it. confirmed 2 places that is not the issue.
View 4 RepliesI asked a question about the E40D a while back about a hard 1-2 shift. However, I needed to replace the shift lever to get my OD light operational again. I fixed it and the issue seemed to stop for a while, so I just forgot about it. It's back again, last time it did it, it was hard enough to make the whole truck almost buck. It was a real good bang. So, could this be the 1-2 accumulator piston or the bore it resides in?
The next question I had is how long should an E40D take to shift from second to third? I've noticed on a steep onramp with some throttle, mine can have around 2.5-3 seconds of rev before it finally shifts (unloaded). I could of sworn I watched the tach climb a hundred revs or so during this once (real steep onramp), however maybe I was just dreaming, as I've never replicated it. Just wanted some opinion on this, wondering if I need to start putting some funds aside.
The truck has about 139K and the transmission looks to be original. It was used to haul a camper and a boat most of it's life, or at least that's what I was told.
At 37 mph and transmission shifts to 5th gear a violent shift occurs. The fist time I thought that I had hit a cement block! It only happens in triptonic or if I leave the shift lever in 4th gear and exceed 55Mph. My local VW dealer said a new Transmission would cure it.
View 8 Replies2011 F-150 Scab 5.0L 25k miles. Why my transmission is waiting several seconds after being placed into drive or reverse before it actually slips into gear when first started in the morning and why it has a hard shift between 1st and 2nd than again between 2nd and 3rd and maybe why when it shifts into 2nd and 3rd gear it slips back out than back in?
View 7 RepliesI have a e99 7.3. had the transmission rebuilt a couple weeks ago by a local shop. have been getting some hard shifts between 2nd/3rd when lightly accelerating. Took it back already but they couldn't find anything. I am planning on taking it back again but what it is so it gets fixed right. What is causing this or what it might be? Should I be worried about having this shop try and fix this?
View 1 RepliesI have an 04' R32 with about 56k on it. Here's the problem; when I drive it hard and speed shift from 2nd to 3rd it grinds just a little. It doesn't do it when I'm just cruisen grany shifting. For awhile now I've been thinking that the synchronous from 2nd to 3rd gear was going bad, till I talked to a friend with a 20th GTI who said that the 6 speed trannies will start to do that, and there's really nothing you can do about it. Is this true that I just have to deal with it or can it be fixed?
View 12 RepliesLong time listener first time poster. My wife has a 2009 Vw jetta 2.5 with a manual transmission that is very hard to shift. It has 80,000 on it and has had the clutch replaced once. She told me that she never had any problems shifting until she let it sit for two weeks while she went to cape cod. I have driven it myself and can confirm that there is an issue. Sometimes it just will not go into gear. No grinding noise at all and very very stiff when moving the stick shift laterally from first to fifth. Not actually shifting from 1-5 just moving the stick across the range it feels like cement. I have already changed the transmission fluid and used the Vw oem oil. I also removed the shift boot and lubed all the moving parts with a high quality grease. Tomorrow I am going to bleed the clutch slave and have a good look at the shift linkage. Is their something I am missing?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2010 accent blue model with stick shift. been fine for 50k miles. Lately i have noticed an issue where i am in first gear and then when i push clutch in to go into second, the lever won't budge. it does eventually go in but it just isn't like it used to be. it happens say about 25% of the time. Since at higher rpms it won't do it but normal rpms it will.
Also, i just had a new short block installed, perhaps something is binding? If I sit in the car, stopped, i can shift into and out of all the gears perfectly. Maybe my 1st gear synchros are going?
I have a 2004 manual transmission Santa Fe. I've maintained it very well since new.
About 6 months ago I noticed it was getting difficult to manually shift gears. It wasn't grinding or anything, just "hard" to get it to go into the various gears while driving. Before, I could shift into any gear with just 2 fingers on the gearshift and it was smooth as silk.
I went in and had the gear oil changed. This was something I didn't even know needed to be changed and the guy said most people never do. They showed me the oil they took out and it looked more like black water than oil and smelled kinda funky. They changed the gear oil out, but still no difference, and in fact it's getting worse.
The best way to describe it is the only way I can really shift gears now is to find that "sweet spot speed" where the gears will change on their own (so to speak). I find it particularly difficult going from 1st to 2nd, such as when starting from a stop light. People almost rear-end me now as it takes me longer to get it into 2nd gear.
Once in gear it runs perfectly, no problems. The clutch seems to be working normally, except perhaps while stopped in 1st gear, it sometime seems to jerk a bit, and I find this most noticeable if I'm stuck in very slow moving heavy traffic with the constant stopping and then moving forward slightly and such.
It is almost impossible to "gear down" into a lower gear unless I'm at the speed where it would normally go into that lower gear on it's own. The best way to describe it is how it is possible to drive a standard transmission car WITHOUT a clutch if you shift at just the right time/speed. But I DO use my clutch, but if I'm not close to "that speed" it's really, really difficult to force it into another gear, and the few times I do try and force it, I'll often get a bit of grinding.
I went on vacation for a week and left my car at my parents house. I came back and now it has become extremely difficult to shift between gears. It's nearly impossible to get the car into reverse, extremely difficult to get it into first, makes a thud when pulling it out of first, is semi difficult to get into 2nd, but only a mild nuisance to get into 3rd through 6th.
For more information, the car is a 2012 Volkswagen GLI with just shy of 40,000 miles. The car ran just fine before I went on vacation and the car was not moved while I was on vacation. I did notice that a little ticking kind of sound when I had the car in neutral with no clutch. So the throw out bearing was starting to wear, but it was a very slight. But I haven't had any other problems.
I just recently bought a 95 F150 with a 351. The truck has high mileage, about 190k, and I am not sure how long the transmission has left. It rides smooth down the road, but when I put the truck into reverse it hesitates for a moment then makes a loud clunking sound(as if a door is being slammed) and then jerks into gear. The reverse works great at the moment though. Should I be worried, is there anything I can do to fix this?
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