Bonneville :: 1998 - Rust On Engine Cradle Mount
Jan 22, 2012
My 98 Bonneville has some rust on the engine cradle mount. Is there any repairing this? If not, how long should I expect the car to go for until this causes problems? The mount that sits in front of this one is still intact.
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I took my car in to the shop to get an oil change and fix a scraping noise from a rear brake (just a bent backing plate), and when I went to pick it up the guy basically advised me to avoid putting any more money into the car as it has severe corrosion on the engine cradle. He went on to tell me to start looking for a new car. Fairly inevitable given its long life (nearly 170k miles) and exposure to harsh winters. Basically most of the front suspension is also in pretty bad condition.Thing is, I'm a grad student who drives this thing about once a week for <5 miles on average, and I don't really want to deal with the hassle of replacing my car at the moment. I'd like to get some more input into how long I can keep safely driving it under these conditions.
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I have no dash lighting on my 1998! I've checked all fuses and they are all in working order. What is the next direction to head in?
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I just bought the car a week ago 90% of the time it shifts great sometimes shifting very rough and going through the gears way too fast....sometimes its jerky on the interstate as if odd kicking in and out today i jump in cold takes off great get 1.5 miles out and starts slipping the further the more it slips if you let it cool it does just fine again until 1 mile or so and repeats...
Took to auto zone and read fault codes...p0440 evap (expected that one due to its age and mileage 186000)...p0742... stuck on(paper says) tcc commanded off by the ecm-tcc slip detected after off command...p1860..pwm solenoid electrical fault(paper says).. The ecm has detected an improper voltage level on the tcc pwm solenoid circuit...
Fluid level correct and not burnt up although slightly dirty... I have added sea foam to the fluid and what the heck does pwm stand for?
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I've currently have 114,000 miles on this Pontiac Bonneville and I replaced the intake manifold last summer. Recently, I have been having issues with the intake manifold leaking a fluid on the right side of it (facing the engine) and been having dirt or some other type of fluid mixing in my fluid tank. The leak has been causing some smoking issues. Also, when I start the car in the morning white smoke comes out of the back of it. Where I need to start so that I can get this fixed. I'm assuming something went wrong in the replacement.
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What is it that is making a fast clicking sound in the back under the car every time i turn my key to on?? It last for maybe 5 minutes or so then goes off...Not a clue !!
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Noticed an ATF leak on my van on crossmember/tailpiece mount awhile ago. Not the driveshaft seal but near mount. Checked tightness of bolts on case and mount and found the one mount bolt that goes into transmission case loose- about one whole turn.
(other bolt is on an "ear" of tranny case) Checked again after a couple of weeks and leak is worse, same bolt is loose again.
Is there a gasket or O-ring on this particular bolt? 1998 Ford E-350 with 6.8L - trans code E on door sticker. I believe it is an E4OD as the tranny pan says "Metric" (?) 324,000 miles on this and runs/shifts fine. Occasional vibe issue at highway speeds... I've added 1 quart of ATF over this time period.
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Have a 1998 Mitsubishi Montero.
Best car I've ever owned. 184K miles, never once failed to start.
I was crushed to discover this spot of frame cancer on the driverside rear portion of the frame behind the rear wheel (attached images) .
Is this terminal?
Is it safe to drive and therefore potentially crash this vehicle?
Before the ground froze I dug a 10x18x10 foot deep hole in the backyard....
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Last year I had carbon deposits cleaned on all 4 cylinders and fuel injectors replaced at a local shop. The same shop that did this work is now telling me that my crankshaft cradle needs to be resealed because it is leaking oil. There wasn't an oil leak issue prior to the carbon cleaning and replacement of injectors and they were the last people under my hood. I am wondering if this leak could have been caused by faulty reassembly or other damage after cleaning the cylinders and replacing the fuel injectors? I have a 2009 Volkswagen Jetta 2.0 with about 75,000 miles.
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My 91 sse showing codes 13 and 14. I have changed the thermostat and the temp sensor. I tested the O2 sensor, it appears to be sending the proper signal. The check engine light comes on after the car warms up. I don't know what else to check,the wiring looks OK.
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My 95 Bonne with 3.8L uncharged engine (90 k miles) is consuming coolant. No external leaks (hoses, clamps, core plugs, water pump, radiator, heater or overflow tank). Coolant side pressure checked hot & cold OK. Coolant sniffed for exhaust; none detected. Here is the crux: the exhaust pipe drips GREEN LIQUID. Engine runs fine (for now).
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Alright, I picked up this 92 bonne se 3800 about a month ago for cheap so i figured i would have to do some work to it...i was not let down there...when i first got it it would start but kind of rough then smooth out and would run and drive great...now for the issues
when it got colder (and was still starting) i would have to wait for it to warm up or rev the engine a few times to get it to kick into gear, otherwise you would shift into gear and nothing would happen.
Now the thing is not starting, after cranking it once in a while it will hiss a puff of something out of the ends of a rubber connector on top of the throttle body. and the area around this is wet with what smells like gas. what would this be? it will crank over but not catch. and it just happened. it was starting then then next day this.
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My friend has a 1996 or 1997 Pontiac Bonneville with over 130K miles on it and its been in her family for several years and she says the "Check Engine" light on it has never turned off. She's taken it to different shops to have it looked at and none of them can tell her what's wrong with it. As far as she can tell, the car runs fine, she keeps up with the service on it but I wonder what would be causing this? I once owned a 1999 Chevy Malibu with the V-6 3.1 liter engine and I had the same thing happen to me but when I had it serviced, the mechanic hooked a little code reading device to it and turns out the spark plugs were misfiring so he changed the coil pack in it....problem solved. So obviously my friend is having issues with fuel emissions system in it but I wonder why the mechanics in the City she lives in can't seem to figure out the problem. Not saying her car has the same problem my old malibu once had, there's a number of reasons why that light turns on and from what I've learned it usually involves the fuel emissions system in it. So what could be wrong with it?
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My engine codes as a no 3 injector miss. sometimes it misses more severe than others. When accelerating it doesn't seem to be missing. I have changed out injectors, ignition control modules, spark plug wires etc. Sometimes it doesn't miss or code out at all but this is rare.
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Every year at this time I get check engine code about either the temp. sensor or the thermostat. I replace the temp. sensor every year, and last year I replaced both the temp. sensor and the thermostat and flushed the cooling system and replaced the coolant. but not this year, no I'm not doing it! For there has to be some other reason other than the temp sensor failing each year! 2005 Pontiac Bonneville 3.8 V6....
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I was surprised this morning by my 2000 Pontiac Bonneville not starting. All the other devices and systems activated but the engine made no attempt to turn over at all. It's a rebuilt title but the car has shown no signs of difficulty except a small bit of sputtering last night when it was unfortunately running on fumes and the service light activating after the gas tank was filled. My limited experience and lack of funds makes me hope this is a blown fuse as that would be relatively quick and painless (so I understand it) to fix but a friend has suggested it may be the starter and I am not foolish enough to believe it couldn't be something even worse. Of course I want to be appraised of more serious concerns in case I need to start making long term plans to restore my mobility.
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I recently purchased a 2004 Jeep wrangler Sahara. In retrospect, I probably should have inspected it more closely. The underside, including the sides of the engine block (below the heads, etc.) have a lot of rust. With little effort I can flake off pieces as thick as a quarter for example. How concerned I should be and what I need to do???
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Well today I was happy go lucky on my way to work everything was going fine then all of a sudden this car in front of me slows down. Okay then I go to speed back up and my car was still crunk but I lose power I could not accelerate at all. So I had to coast to the side of the road and I put the car in park to see if it will allow me to accelerate in a different gear and when I do that.
The car shuts off then I go to crank it back up the first time and I got nothing then I wait a couple of seconds then try it again. It cranks up but still cant accelerate until I raise the engine then I can finally move. I was able to do about 65 mph to get to work but this happened two more times before I got back home that night. The car is a 2000 and has 220,000 miles on it.
I took the car to a part store to see why the service engine light was on. They told me it was a bad or faulty EGR valve but this was the first time the service engine light has flashed before.
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Yesterday I had to replace two right side engine mounts on my 2WD 2004 Honda Element w/ 63K (most short drives in a hilly city). The mechanic saved the old parts for me and sure enough they were really torn up. The lower left side control arm also needed to be replaced and they think the Lower right control arm will need replacing in about 3-4K.
This seems to be a fairly short life for such vital items. I've owned front wheel drive cars before and hadn't had this happen. What gives ( besides the rubber)?
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About a year ago i notice this vibration and took it to my local lexus shop they stated that my engine mount is bad. bought the mount from lexus and change and vibration is still there...,my question is am i the only one that is having this engine vibration problem or this a common problem for the 06-11 awd.?
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Finally took the Wolf in to see about an engine rattle thats been getting worse. The culprit - loose engine mount bolts! Dealer decided to order new bolts, not just tighten the old ones. Also mentioned a recall for the transmission software. Odd that the "recall" wasn't listed on-line for my VIN. It must be the one that smooths the tranny a bit, it is a bit jumpy at low speed.
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