Bonneville :: 1997 - Gear Engaged But Car Doesn't Move
Dec 7, 2014
I'm working with some family members who have a 97 Bonneville with the 3800 supercharged and approaching 300,000 miles. It already has a rebuilt engine and transmission.
Just recently when putting the car in gear it sounds like it goes in gear (the engine rpms settle down) but the car doesn't move. Under the hood I can see the arm that shifts the transmission. It moves normally and appears to engage the transmission properly, but the car just doesn't move.
It doesn't do this all the time, but it does it about 90% of the time. The other 10% it goes it gear and drives just fine.
Today while testing a little more we put it in drive and it didn't want to go, but with the RPMs up around d 3,000 the car creeped forward a couple feet and stopped.
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Here's the scoop: 2 year old clutch & flywheel with 21,000 miles on them. Clutch master cyl. is full & not leaking. The clutch slave cyl. moves when the clutch is pressed & is also not leaking. The shifter linkage has been checked at the shifter and moves freely as it should.
I started the car, put it in gear, let the clutch out and there is no movement from the car regardless of the engine revs. The engine runs freely and does not die with the clutch engaged and the transaxle in gear. Putting it in ANY gear (including reverse) has no effect. The car will not move.
After turning the engine off I left the car in gear, left the e-brake disengaged, released the foot brake and the car stayed put. I then put the shifter into neutral, let the foot brake off and the car began to roll. I stopped, put the shifter back into 1st, let the foot brake off and the car was again stationary and did not roll. This tells me that the shifter linkage indeed works and that the car WILL go into gear. So, why won't the car move under power?
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This morning as I get in to drive my kid to school (2005 2.7 2 wd auto) as I go to put it in reverse I noticeably have to pull it with some force. I have never had to "force it" before, it had always switched gears with ease. This time it felt very stiff but had no issues going into gear. After I dropped my son off at school I went through the gears up and down and it felt very stiff (at this point i have no issues with starting it or P).
At lunch I go out to get something to eat and when I go to start it up it won't start. I try and try and nothing. All the lights came on, it's not a battery issue at all (brand new). But after 10 tries it starts, so I'm pretty happy. Then I go to put it in gear (reverse) I can not press in the button on the side of the gear shift. It will not go in. I press with all my might and it wont budge. But again, after about 10 good tries at it goes in and I can then select my gear but still feels very stiff.
After stopping again I didn't shut off the engine and dicked around with the shifter basically figured out that my car is not recognizing Park. On the instrument panel each gear lights up but not P. It gets very stiff when trying to put it in P but it doesn't actually go into P. If I put it in P (or really the further up it will go) and shut off the car, it won't start again. I can start it up in N and only N.
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Caravan acting like it was in neutral when she put it into gear and then jumping abruptly. She solved the problem by turning it off and back on. I think her problem might be the Speed Sensor b/c my Ford Taurus did the same thing for years: When put into gear, doesn't move and revs like in neutral, then suddenly jumps into gear sometimes. Problem could sometimes be solved by turning it off and on or moving gear shift to park and then back to drive. Also, even after warming up, when starting from a stop it would stay in 1st gear and not shift up, then suddenly shift up and car would jerk forward. Sometimes when it wouldn't switch gears the RPMs would remain high, even on highway. We thought we needed a new transmission! We found on line that it might be the speed sensor, which lets the car know what speed you are going. We switched it out and all the problems disappeared!
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I might have a chance to pick up an 1997 F150 with a 4.6 pretty cheap. He has replaced the ignition switch and lock cylinder, Says it keeps turning over until you put in in gear. In my experience a solenoid that is sticking wont stop until you disconnect the battery, just wondering what people think it might be? I am thinking I will just put a push button stater to make it work if its a wiring issue.
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My launch scanner reported a bad oil pressure switch, but I've replaced that, and when I did the oil pressure light went away, but my gauge still didn't work. Could it be a faulty switch? Or is it common for gauges to stop working on these fords seeing how there's a resistor to trick the gauge from the factory anyway? If I smack my dash the gauge will raise and lower. But I think that's normal.
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My car was running fine. I drove it 2-3 miles city & freeway a week ago to make sure. I was going to lend it to a friend and handed him the keys at a different location. When I got home he showed me that he was unable to move the car out of Park. I got in and the motor started fine. I checked and the battery was showing at the normal level,but I too could not budge the car out of Park. That was a few days ago.
Today I went out to start the car up and to my surprise, the battery is completely drained. The battery is only about 17 months old. I previously had had the motor rebuilt a couple of years ago and the car hasn't been driven but 2-3 thousand miles since.
What the problem may be? What kind of mechanic should look at it? (the friend admitted to pushing buttons but since I wasn't there I don't know if that was before he tried to move out of Park or after).
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I have a '90 Bonneville SSE and after coming to a stop at a red light on the highway, when the light turned green the car wouldn't move forward. There were no odd noises, the car had been in cruise control and there had been no problems up to that point. The car shifted crisply, there was no obvious slippage or hesitation going into gear.
I can feel the car engage in both drive and reverse, but it won't move at all.
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I am just about committed to purchasing a 1997 Ford E350 extended cargo van with the 5.4. The transmission shifts through all the gears nice and firm (reverse also works). The only issue with the van is the column selector lever is very hard to move between the entire range of PRND21. It also does not "click" into the selected positions, you have to just line up the pointer to the desired gear selection.
Is this a complete deal breaker (internal transmission issue/replacement necessary) or, is it something relatively simple (such as a worn selector cable). The owner did admit the van has been sitting for sometime. It has 134,000 miles on it.
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I have replaced the driver control switch but the passenger and rear windows still doesn't work.
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Well here it is I just put a new slave cylinder in my 02' F-150 and once we figured out all the little issues we were having we finally got the truck to fire up!!! Now my problem is that when the truck is running I can't get the truck into gear with the clutch pushed and it doesn't even grind. But when the truck is off it goes through the gears no problem what so ever. When we did the slave cylinder while we were in there we just replaced everything clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, rear seal, and pilot bearing. We figured that since all the shops were quoting me 800 and up for just doing the slave that since were in there we might as well do everything since nothing has ever been replaced yet. My question is why will the truck not let me shift into gears when running but no problem when off. Oh and yes the system was bled after doing the slave actually twice so far.
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Alright, I picked up this 92 bonne se 3800 about a month ago for cheap so i figured i would have to do some work to it...i was not let down there...when i first got it it would start but kind of rough then smooth out and would run and drive great...now for the issues
when it got colder (and was still starting) i would have to wait for it to warm up or rev the engine a few times to get it to kick into gear, otherwise you would shift into gear and nothing would happen.
Now the thing is not starting, after cranking it once in a while it will hiss a puff of something out of the ends of a rubber connector on top of the throttle body. and the area around this is wet with what smells like gas. what would this be? it will crank over but not catch. and it just happened. it was starting then then next day this.
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My 2002 lincoln ls v8 140k miles doesn't move when put into reverse or drive 5 or even d4,3,2,1 , it just starts to roll back/forward when taken out of park. It has the gear selector with d5, d4,3,2,1 not the select shift. I was told needs new transmission, but before it stopped moving completely it was still driveable second slipped at lower speeds(mostly when looking for parking or in traffic).
I had made an appointment to bring my car to the shop and the same day is when it stopped moving. All this happen within a week during the week i constantly got an e where d5 was and on last day check engine light came on.
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My new to me 04 W12's rear sunshade does not work. The fuse is fine but when I push the button the sunshade doesn't move at all and it doesn't make any sounds. Also, I have had the left battery on a CTEK charger for a couple days and the battery is fully charged.
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My new to me 04 W12's rear sunshade does not work. The fuse is fine but when I push the button the sunshade doesn't move at all and it doesn't make any sounds. Also, I have had the left battery on a CTEK charger for a couple days and the battery is fully charged.
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I have this 2005 Camry since 2010 and never had any issue. Yesterday, I used wiper and the driver side moved slightly. The passenger side wiper blade went over it. So I checked and the driver side arm doesn't move at all but the passenger side is working fine. Winter is coming here and it'll be terrible without working wipers. Is it something I can tinker on?
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The oil pressure gauge in my 04 v8 treg doesn't move until I drive it for about 15 minutes. Is this normal?? When THE BEAST is idling it takes about 15 minutes to pass 60 on the oil pressure gauge. I find this very odd.
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First off i couldn't get the car into reverse to back out of a convenience store and then i let off the clutch to try and pump it again and the car just dies. drove just fine up until i parked. Now when i try to move through gears it sounds like it's shifting but the car doesn't move. The car does have a stronger clutch and unitronic chip if that would have to do with anything.
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I have a 2005 camry 4cyl my daughter was driving, she said it became difficult to get it into gear. The car does have 200,000 miles never had clutch problems. I can get it in gear when the engine is turned off. when it starts no gear can be engaged. I bleed the slave cylinder but no air . the slave master is not leaking. I turned the rod on slave master and when I started it the clutch was engaged. I am lost, I am used to working on old cars but I do not know if its a clutch that it needs to be replaced or what.
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I have read other people having problems with their power seats. Mine is kind of weird, the right side moves, the left doesn't. So when I try to move forward, it moves forward and pivots to toward the left, since only the right side is moving forward on the rail. There is only one motor moving the seat forward and backward right? I am hoping it's just an obstruction on the left railing or something....unless there are two motors moving the seat forward. The lumbar motors are fine, I can move up and down, it's just the seat itself that can't slide forward and backward.
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It doesn't move back when I turn off the car anymore. I checked settings and it's set to full. I tried the middle one and nothing... Weird...
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