Recently, my 1995 Bonneville SSE randomly will stall. No hesitating, no surging, no rough running, just DIE. This happens while driving, stopped at traffic light, warm / cold, Whenever the mood stikes it!
It always (so far) starts right back up. So far it has not tripped a code or caused any service lights to stay on. I've cleaned the battery posts and don't know what else to do.
1995 Camry 2.2 4cyl 165,000 miles FED (not CA).
Two days ago while doing a routine oil change I noticed my kids engine compartment was real dirty as we had alot of flooding from rain a few weeks ago. I sprayed the engine with a water hose w/nozzle to clean it. At the time I didn't know any better. The car was driven without any issue briefly that day. The following morning the car was driven a distance of 25 miles without incident.
After resting 30 minutes the car was started and began to idle rough and stalled repeatedly. When I showed up to inspect the issue it had been sitting about an hour. I went for a test drive and the car ran good. About 20 minutes later iI get another call saying the car is doing it again. It was sputtering/ hesitating when I attempted to accelerate it began to stall unless I limped it along staying off the gas.
Once I got it home I started doing some research and discovered that my spraying water in the engine compartment was probably what caused the issues I was experiencing. So I began to go through the motions trying to repair. I also noticed the car ran good when cold but at operating temp it would run rough. The check engine light has not come on.
I replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap & rotor, etc... sensor, and air filter, I cleaned the throttle body port and IAC valve port with sea foam cleaner. I cleaned and tested the EGR valve & ports. Nothing has improved from my efforts.
I must of screwed something up good, since its been 2 days, it should be dry by now. I also been thinking that maybe some water got to the injectors. NOt sure if a cause, but the oil was changed right before I sprayed engine.
My course of action as of right now is.
1.Check and clean all electrical connectors
2.Replace distributor with a re-manufactured one
3.Replace upstream o2 sensor
Recently, after exiting the freeway, may car ( lexus 1995 SC400) suddenly stalls. After a moment of panic, i placed the emergency blinkers on,. coasted to a stop, and re started the engine. It started right away and I continued driving home. The engine sounded perfectly fine, no hesitation, no roughness. After a few days it happened again....again after exiting the freeway and slowing down for city traffic. The Garage that serviced my car for many years has checked the electrical system, replaced the spark plug wire set, cleaned " throttle body". These seemed to fix the problem. The car was fine for 6 months and then it happened again last week.
View 8 RepliesI just bought a 2000 f250 diesel truck and am having problems with the ac. When I first turn on the ac it blows very cold and works perfectly but after about 5 or 10 minutes it will start blowing warm and slightly humid air for probably around 5 or 10 minutes and then suddenly the very cold air will come back. This cycle repeats over and over again and I'm not sure what is wrong.
View 5 RepliesMy daughter has a 1995 Grand Prix - 3.1. The car has an intermittent problem that can go 2-3 weeks in between occurrences.
It runs like a top, but will suddenly lose power while driving and die completely. After a while it'll be fine. (starts up again.)
The lights will flicker and give a bit of warning before it dies. I had both crankshaft sensors replaced a month ago and I though that would do the trick.
I have a huge problem. My 94 ranger 2.3L 5 speed manual transmission, has problems with idoling while it's cold, has no power going uphill and stalls when I slow down to stop. This is all after putting a new motor in. The old one was running ok with 310,000 but lagging bad. I figured with the driving I do, a new motor wouldn't be a bad thing. Boy, was I wrong. It has been a nightmare. But once the truck is up to operating temperature, it runs so smooth you wouldn't think there was a problem. But let it cool off, restart, and boom! There it is. We have changed so many parts and sensors with absolutely no change to the original problem. It's very frustrating. I just can't let this problem win. I will figure it out.
View 13 RepliesWhy my 1995 740i only blows out cold on the drivers side and warm on the pass side? this happens when i put the a/c on.
View 3 RepliesI have an 89 Volvo 244 DL series. I have had a complete tune-up, and oil change just recently. Battery works great, plenty of voltage, even had the fuel injection cleaned out.
Problem is the car starts right up when it is cold, however, after driving it and let it set for an hour the car starts up slower and immediately it stalls out. I do it again and the same thing happens and then I leave my foot on the pedal to keep it running at a higher idle for a bit and then place into a gear & it goes without any hesitation. If by chance I do not leave foot on pedal and put it in whatever gear it immediately stalls out. I have driven Volvo's for years, from the 70's to what I have currently. I never had encounter anything like this and have dealt with many other issues and this one has me baffled.
I need to put a starter in my v6. Is it fairly simple or will i have to jack up the motor the problem is it starts fine when cold but after you drive it for a short distance and shut it off it has a hard time starting.
View 4 Replies1995 Pontiac Bonneville cranks but wont start.
I've replaced the crank sensor and also the cam sensor with no luck, the car cranks with no start, when I used starter fluid the car runs, when i stop using fluid it shuts off what could it be.
Only has 38,000 Miles on it.
2007 GS 350 109,500 miles. My heater was blowing cold at idle and warm when driving so I took it to dealer. To my surprise, dealer says its a blown head gasket. No other symptoms. No white smoke, no smells, no warning lights on dash, and running fine. Just had VVT gear recall done last week.
Fortunately I have Lexus extended warranty good thru 125k miles and Feb 2014. I do my own maintenance (plugs, oil changes etc). Have records for all. But have not done coolant change (due at 100k).
Well my problem isn't a new one. My bonny - will stall at about anytime and anywhere - and yes various power ckts will also fail at the same time. I have cleaned every power connection that I can find. Several threads here have listed answers to this problem - One guy rebuilt his starter - another person found the problem in some wiring on the drivers side of the car in some shorted wiring. Some ignition modules and or coils have been replaced (do these drop out the power rail when they fail????) Interestingly enough I did not find any threads that indicated that cleaning power connections fixed the problem - Also, no one indicated that replacing their alternator fixed the problem. One guy did replace a battery with a leaky cell - he also replaced a neutral safety switch. I don't know which of those actions actually solved his problem. Since so many people have had a stalling problem and a power accessory problem at the same time (especially on 1994 and 95 models)- I thought it would be a good place to start a sort of clearinghouse where a collection of potential repairs could be cataloged. So if you have had a stalling and power accessory problem at the same time.
View 14 RepliesMy '06 GS450h has developed a fault where the heater blows cold at idle and low revs but blows warm when driving or revving the engine at a standstill. The coolant hasn't dropped at all and the car never goes above halfway on the temp gauge. Its starting to get frustrating now the cold weather has set in and temps dropping! Long journeys are ok as at high speeds it stays warm but short journeys are uncomfortable!
I just had a feel of the rad hoses and hoses that go into the matrix (engine side of bulk head) and matrix hoses feel warm (both of them), the top hose to the rad is warm but not hot and bottom hose is cold suggesting the stat hasn't opened yet. Its cold outside so getting the car up to temp is quite difficult without a long drive (rush hour at the mo).
Still I just had the car parked on the drive and cranked the heater up to max and held the accelerator for a while and super warm air blows out. The engine cuts back out as "normal operating temp" has been reached for battery mode and then the heater goes cool again! Still the bottom radiator hose is cool and top hose not massively warm. It has never overheated thus far and I drive 150miles a day back and forth to Reading from Cheltenham 4 nights a week.
Only thing I can think of is a sticky thermostat or water pump not operating sufficiently enough to circulate the water? Its getting colder and short trips where it used to blow warm air nice and quickly (within 3-5miles) are becoming unpleasant!
Just today,when replacing the UIM on a naturally aspirated 95 Pontiac Bonneville 3.8 with a Dorman upgraded type from my local auto parts, I ran into an issue. When following specified torquing sequences and specs , be very careful with the 1 long stud (#7), as it will split your new manifold there if you try to torque to 89 in/lbs. Took 1st back for replacement ,and the second new one started to split at the same place. Was using a brand new Craftsman in/lb torque wrench set correctly and following instructions exactly. I've seen a lot of excellent info on this UIM issue with the GM 3.8 ltr 1995-2004 years, but never this issue with the replacement ones. If I have to change this again will definitely go with the aluminum one.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1995 Bonneville with about 160k miles. I have a problem with the PARKING light on the dash coming on, accompanied by a chime. This happens fairly consistently after first starting the car and driving off, or after coming to a full stop (e.g., stop sign) and then pulling away again. The light and chime come on for only 5 or 10 seconds before stopping all on it's own. One suggestion was that the parking brake pedal was sagging, but pulling up on the pedal does nothing (it's up all the way and doesn't budge). I've also read that a leaking master cylinder may cause the light and alarm to activate, but I can't see any evidence of leaks when I examine the MC.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1991 Bonne LE with 150,000 miles. Have had GREAT luck with this car but realize it is getting high miles. I recently drove it about 250 mile trip and the A/C worked perfectly staying nice and cold. The next time I drove it, when I turned the A/C on, it got cold after about 5-10 seconds and then it was like you turned only the blower on with no A/C. It does the same thing every time I turn the A/C on, gets cold fast, then just neutral temp with no cold air.
I checked the compressor switch and it is working fine, and the compressor is engaging and staying engaged, but not outputting cold air except for the first 10 seconds or so. I do believe the temperature door inside the dash is opening properly. What I might check myself before taking the car in for A/C service? I am capable of replacing the compressor & seals myself but would have to have someone discharge the system and then recharge it afterwards.
The car is a rebuilder that I bought about 10 years ago. The fellow (very trustworthy) who rebuilt it replaced all the A/C o-ring seals when I bought it and made sure the system was fully charged. It has worked perfectly this whole time. He also gave me the a/c compressor and other parts from the parts car that was used to rebuild this one.
My car has a little over 200k on it. It does have new brakes on the front. I can hear the wheels squeak when I drive. It only does it sometimes, but i can hear it the most going around 30 MPH but it will speed up as I speed up, etc. Like I said it only does it sometimes. What it is. I bought it after brakes were put on, btw.
View 13 RepliesI have a 1994 Bonneville with charging problems. When started the gage on the dash might go up to 14 and stay there or not charge at all. The car at times while driving will charge then not charge and then charge again it is all over the place. I have put on a new battery, Alt. and starter still the same thing. I have had the car at Battery Specialist and they said it's in the wiring. I have put a new harness on and still the same thing.
View 2 RepliesYesterday this thing died on me twice. 30mph to 0 in nothing flat. No problems with stalling before yesterday. It's at the shop now, but they tell me they aren't finding anything and probably won't if they can't get it to die on them too. It had only been driven for about 5 minutes before each occurrence, and each time I had just topped a small hill(if that matters). The second time, it did slightly hesitate to restart and seems to me there was some light smoke from the tailend.
View 19 RepliesOn Sept 10, 2011 I was driving towards a major highway when my airbag light came on. I just figured it was a sensor malfunction and kept driving. I proceeded to the highway and when I was up to 57MPH I put my cruise control on. About 3 minutes later both of my airbags deployed while I was driving. Do you think I need a lawyer?
View 19 RepliesThe a/c in my 05 Saturn Vue suddenly began fluctuating from cold to barely cold. In May I replaced the compressor, condenser, and accumulator. It blew cold until 2 weeks ago when it started blowing cold when it felt like it... ... I really don't want to spend more $ or time with my mechanic... Should I just give it a Freon charge?
View 3 Replies