Bonneville :: 1995 Pontiac GM 3.8 Upper Intake Manifold Replacement
Nov 24, 2012
Just today,when replacing the UIM on a naturally aspirated 95 Pontiac Bonneville 3.8 with a Dorman upgraded type from my local auto parts, I ran into an issue. When following specified torquing sequences and specs , be very careful with the 1 long stud (#7), as it will split your new manifold there if you try to torque to 89 in/lbs. Took 1st back for replacement ,and the second new one started to split at the same place. Was using a brand new Craftsman in/lb torque wrench set correctly and following instructions exactly. I've seen a lot of excellent info on this UIM issue with the GM 3.8 ltr 1995-2004 years, but never this issue with the replacement ones. If I have to change this again will definitely go with the aluminum one.
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I've currently have 114,000 miles on this Pontiac Bonneville and I replaced the intake manifold last summer. Recently, I have been having issues with the intake manifold leaking a fluid on the right side of it (facing the engine) and been having dirt or some other type of fluid mixing in my fluid tank. The leak has been causing some smoking issues. Also, when I start the car in the morning white smoke comes out of the back of it. Where I need to start so that I can get this fixed. I'm assuming something went wrong in the replacement.
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So i was thinking about buying a intake manifold for my truck and porting it and polish it. Would it be worth doing. I've decided that trying to port the heads will take up to much time and money for gaskets. Now the only reason why I am buying another stock one is so i can take my time and do it right.
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It doesn't look anything like the illistration in my Haynes book.Where are the bolts located and how many?
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Coolant spilled on my upper intake manifold. I washed it off to the best of my ability but when i started the car white smoke came from tge exhaust. What my next move should be?
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1999 F-250 LD 5.4... There is a hole on the back of the upper intake manifold, just below the back of the throttle body, is a vacuum hose supposed to be attached here? Have a serious vacuum leak, no coolant loss, no overheating, just had cop's and spark plugs done, now she backfires, stalls and will not stay running, mech. says its an intake gasket but the gasket and lower intake manifold look new.
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I have a 2000 Pontiac Bonneville ssei (Supercharged) 3.8L V-6. I had a issue with the fuel injectors now that problem is fixed. I can't get the car to start on it's own. I and a auto garage have replaced the MAF,MAP,Camshaft Pos Sensor, Crankshaft POS Sensor, FPR, ICM, IAC, Someone had the TPS in wrong and I was missing 5 volts at pin B of the TPS. I corrected that and now it's ok. The engine cranks but it will not start on it's own, I have about 54 psi on the fuel rail.
The ECM was replaced by the dealer before i fixed the fuel injector problem but that did not work so the original is back in place. The car runs like a top after I shoot some starting spray down the intake and will run until I shut it off. I try to restart it and it won't start until I spray it again. I am very careful not to spray on the MAF sensor. Even with that being said I use Electronic spray cleaner to start it. All Sensor wires have been checked with the exception of the crankshaft position sensor which I'm going to do today going to the icm.
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1995 Pontiac Bonneville cranks but wont start.
I've replaced the crank sensor and also the cam sensor with no luck, the car cranks with no start, when I used starter fluid the car runs, when i stop using fluid it shuts off what could it be.
Only has 38,000 Miles on it.
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I have a 1995 Bonneville with about 160k miles. I have a problem with the PARKING light on the dash coming on, accompanied by a chime. This happens fairly consistently after first starting the car and driving off, or after coming to a full stop (e.g., stop sign) and then pulling away again. The light and chime come on for only 5 or 10 seconds before stopping all on it's own. One suggestion was that the parking brake pedal was sagging, but pulling up on the pedal does nothing (it's up all the way and doesn't budge). I've also read that a leaking master cylinder may cause the light and alarm to activate, but I can't see any evidence of leaks when I examine the MC.
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Looking for any pictures or directions on replacing the intake manifold on the 2004 F150, 5.4. Got all the parts with the pulgs, and ignition coils.
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I took my Monte in for the annual Missouri Safety Inspection. Note: I had no known problems with my 2003 Monte SS 117K Miles. After the inspection, which passed, I was informed of a variety of problems: Intake Manifold Gasket Replacement, Valve Cover Gasket w/Intake replacement, Thermostat w/Intake Removal, Fuel Injector O-Rings w/Intake Removal.
My question is should I have all of this done? It's not cheap..roughly 1000 bucks. I know very little about this and I don't want to just tell my mechanic to do it without some research. Are these common problems with Monte's of this age/mileage and just part of the cost of owning this car. I am the original owner and have avoiding costly repairs/maintenance..it's been a great car.
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I have had a problem with my car idle hunting for about the past year. Last week my car threw a code and my code checker said that all 4 cylinders were misfiring. So I am still under warranty and took the car to the dealer. They said the intake manifold was leaking.
Two questions come to mind: Has to engine suffered any damage from leaking for over a year? and Do they automatically change the oil when changing out the intake manifold/gasket?
I did have an oil analysis last year (5/11) through Blackstone Labs and no antifreeze was present in the oil but the silicates were mildly high. Car is a 2005 toyota corolla with 102,xxx miles. The dealer also did the head gasket and a couple other engine gaskets 1 year ago.
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I am about to replace the intake manifold and gaskets. I know all of that process, but first question is if there is anything i should do whilst in there. Second question; what can I do with my intake to get more power? Mainly just kind of wondering before I get my parts ordered.
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I have a 1998 chevy silverado z/71 4x4. I had a water leak and had the intake manifold gaskets replaced. Ever since then, the check engine light comes on and it soots up the o2 sensors and the 4 plugs on the right bank. It may run good for a month or so and then it starts all over again.
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I went thru a 100 posts on "Intake gasket" search but I couldn't find any repair information on the 4.0L intake gasket replacement. I'm having difficulty pulling the upper intake off. All nuts and connections have been removed except for the egr tube that's connected to the upper intake.
According to another site, u should be able to just pull straight up, clear the intake studs, turn the intake to the left and then up due to the fact the egr tube is curves inside the intake towards the front of the upper intake. No luck. egr tube won't separate from the intake. This is a little long but everything has been disassembled to this point. BTW this is a 4.0L OHV engine
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Our 2000 explorer xls 4x4 with 4.0 ohv just pop the code for the intake gasket leaking. My question is, would there be any way to tell if it is the upper or lower that is leaking? It has 188k on it but still runs good. I think I can feel a miss in it at idle but it is not a steady miss.
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I have a 1998 Ford f150 4.6 2x4 i have a coolant leak on the upper intake. It comes out on the back left of the intake through a metal pipe. Well where the metal pipe is (pressed in) to the intake. Now i talk to the guy at ford dealership in the parts he said it is called the (heater pipe). He also told me that the part is 21 dollars but I have to press it in and if that does stop the leak he said I would have to buy a new intake. Now here is the problem I can not find any info regarding this heater pipe. I don't know how to remove it properly, why it is leaking. I can't find it in the handbooks that i have read so far.
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I'm in the process of changing my upper and lower intake gaskets. my question is, the upper intake along with the tubing on the fuel rail are caked with oil/carbon, along with the back side of throttle body. What would be the best way to clean them?
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Well I have to make a long story short, suffice it to say this is a bit embarrassing, but I need an answer: I removed the 440-t4 transmission from my daughter's 1987 Pontiac Bonneville and had it rebuilt. After I replaced the unit I discovered I left off (and lost) the TV link and cable. I (miraculously)found the link and the cable, and I am wondering if I can replace the link without having to remove the side cover of the transmission, and what I can do to avoid dropping the TV link rod down into the trans while I am trying to reattach it to the linkage arm inside the trans thru the little TV link hole on the top of the trans.
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I have a beautiful 2002 Pontiac Bonneville SSEI with just over 100k miles on it. I've been saving for a new set of tires and a new regulator for the rear window. The window suffers from the "pop and drop" syndrome but I have instructions on how to fix it myself when I can get the parts.
Yesterday, I started her up to go to my second job when I discovered I had no reverse. In drive, I could just creep forward at 3000 rpm. Fixing a transmission is probably the worst case scenario I could imagine happening.
I'm left with two options: Either find something simple I can do myself to get it moving again or get what I can for it and use the proceeds to buy a piece of metal to get back and forth to work.
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Air ventilation on my 92 pontiac bonneville ssei. There is no air coming out of the dashboard or the floor. only to the windshield. What can be the problem?
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