Bonneville :: 1991 SSE - Check Engine Codes 13 And 14 Shown
Dec 21, 2011
My 91 sse showing codes 13 and 14. I have changed the thermostat and the temp sensor. I tested the O2 sensor, it appears to be sending the proper signal. The check engine light comes on after the car warms up. I don't know what else to check,the wiring looks OK.
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Every year at this time I get check engine code about either the temp. sensor or the thermostat. I replace the temp. sensor every year, and last year I replaced both the temp. sensor and the thermostat and flushed the cooling system and replaced the coolant. but not this year, no I'm not doing it! For there has to be some other reason other than the temp sensor failing each year! 2005 Pontiac Bonneville 3.8 V6....
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My friend has a 1996 or 1997 Pontiac Bonneville with over 130K miles on it and its been in her family for several years and she says the "Check Engine" light on it has never turned off. She's taken it to different shops to have it looked at and none of them can tell her what's wrong with it. As far as she can tell, the car runs fine, she keeps up with the service on it but I wonder what would be causing this? I once owned a 1999 Chevy Malibu with the V-6 3.1 liter engine and I had the same thing happen to me but when I had it serviced, the mechanic hooked a little code reading device to it and turns out the spark plugs were misfiring so he changed the coil pack in it....problem solved. So obviously my friend is having issues with fuel emissions system in it but I wonder why the mechanics in the City she lives in can't seem to figure out the problem. Not saying her car has the same problem my old malibu once had, there's a number of reasons why that light turns on and from what I've learned it usually involves the fuel emissions system in it. So what could be wrong with it?
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I have a 1991 Bonne LE with 150,000 miles. Have had GREAT luck with this car but realize it is getting high miles. I recently drove it about 250 mile trip and the A/C worked perfectly staying nice and cold. The next time I drove it, when I turned the A/C on, it got cold after about 5-10 seconds and then it was like you turned only the blower on with no A/C. It does the same thing every time I turn the A/C on, gets cold fast, then just neutral temp with no cold air.
I checked the compressor switch and it is working fine, and the compressor is engaging and staying engaged, but not outputting cold air except for the first 10 seconds or so. I do believe the temperature door inside the dash is opening properly. What I might check myself before taking the car in for A/C service? I am capable of replacing the compressor & seals myself but would have to have someone discharge the system and then recharge it afterwards.
The car is a rebuilder that I bought about 10 years ago. The fellow (very trustworthy) who rebuilt it replaced all the A/C o-ring seals when I bought it and made sure the system was fully charged. It has worked perfectly this whole time. He also gave me the a/c compressor and other parts from the parts car that was used to rebuild this one.
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The 91 bonneville stopped having forward gears but was drove back in reverse about 4 miles, reverse appears to work fine does this thing need new transmission or is there an easier fix...
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The display says "check charging system" only when I turn the key to on position. Is this normal?
2015 Camry XLE
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Recently, I needed to go through DEQ and failed the first time with a cat sensor code. After going through a shop and having the cat replaced, I thought I was good to go, but the check engine light remained on. It is supposed to reset after a few drive cycles, but it didn't. I'd say I went about 50 miles and started the car around 10 times. I used a code reader to erase the codes and the check engine light hasn't come on since. And most importantly, I made it through DEQ.
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My '05 Prius check engine light has been on for a while now, at first it would turn on for a while then turn off but now it is staying on. I took it to AutoZone and they ran a diagnostic and it returned the codes P1121, P1123, P1150, P1116.
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I bought a 00 v6 sports pkg and I am in the process of getting the clockspring replaced. I have noticed a little slip in the transmission (atleast that's what it feels like to me) when I am going between 40-50mph and was wondering how serious that is. Is this something that i have to have done right away? Also would the Lucas transmission lubricant work with this. I took the car to aamco to get the trans and check engine check and they told me I needed my transmission rebuilt but I only feel a little slip only when going between 40-50. They also pulled these codes on the check engine p1565 p0430 p0171 p0174 and p1112.
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I have a 2010 Tiguan and the check engine light has come on. When I use my ODB scan tool it doesn't find any codes and the check engine light won't go on. What might be the problem?
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I have a 2002 volvo S60 2.4T that I just had the check engine light come on so I pulled the codes and here is what I found,
PO403
PO611
P1378
P2623
So my question is what does this mean ? what is wrong ?
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I've had a 2005 Prius for almost 2 year and 50,000 miles now and had no problems. Recently I decided to do an inverter recall and them some "necessary" maintenance (TB, transaxle fluid, etc). How I have an intermittent CEL, P1112 (Intake air temp sensor) coming on every other day. Before I thought Autozone had another DTC detected (1121 It had something to do with a coolant stacked too high?)
What are the most common check engine light (CEL) or DTC codes and how to deal with them?
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Just bought my volvo several days ago. It was throwing check engine codes so I had it scanned and it came down to a vacuum leak. I found the spot where it was leaking which was a little piece to the left and slightly behind the exhaust manifold, slightly behind and beneath the thermostat housing. It went from a hard plastic vacuum line, to a 1.5 inch rubber vacuum line which plugged into a nipple on the exhaust manifold or something behind the manifold. the rubber section had 3 large holes in it, so i replaced it with more rubber vacuum line. same length and same inner diameter.
What I did notice when I replaced it was that it was too large for the plastic line, slid on way too easy, but i had to fight it onto the nipple. The check engine codes went away for 2 days(I drove about 150 miles over that time) but today, the check engine light came back on, went to auto zone, had them scan it, came back with vacuum leak. So when I got home, I popped the hood, sprayed some carb cleaner by the replacement vacuum job I did, and sure enough the idle changed. What the proper replacement hose is for that area?
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The Check Engine Light is on. Diagnostic Codes: P0722, P1618, and P1633. Do these mean the output speed sensor/connector wires should be replaced? Is this a DIY job?
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My '04 santa fe 3.5 v6 gls/lx, 79k miles, gas, auto, check light has just come on while I was driving a less than 10 mile journey. How can I check what is wrong. Do I need some sort of diagnostic code checker. Do any national outlets check it for free (Pep Boys or Auto Zone, etc).
Just 5 days ago (about 50 miles only) I had timing belt, water pump, plugs and leads replaced, brakes checked and lubes flushed; BUT not at above dealers. I would rather know what the code is saying before I go back to the shop who carried out the work.
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The light just came on in my 06 Sonata 3.3L, showing many codes... P0171B, P0172B, P2187, P2188, P0174B, P0175B, P2189, and P2190. All of these just came on at once, within the last hour. Everything that is stated is regarding Too Lean or Too Rich on Bank's 1 & 2. Where to start on this...
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I am a grad student hoping my car will hang in there till graduation next year. I have about 227,000 miles on my Honda Accord Wagon and recently the odometer stopped working, S light started flashing, and the check engine light came on. This only happens sometimes, and the check engine light does not always come on when the S light flashes and odometer stops working. I've continued driving the car to see what happens and so far, no problems have come up. I have driven another 1000 miles and am hoping I can just ignore the problem and continue driving the vehicle since I am not in a position to fix it or get a new car.
Recently I passed my California emissions test and she seems to be running smooth. Any thoughts or warnings as to why sometimes these signals happen?
I have to drive with GPS on all the time to know my speed, but other than that I feel OK.
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My 1993 Bonneville SE; fuel pump is not working. I don't know if it's the relay or not. How can I check and where is the relay. I have relays in horizontal line in center of my firewall. I am disabled and don't have any other transport.
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The car was misfiring and the check engine light codes were all sensor coils were bad. Lexus told me that it was coil6 bad and they fixed it. I should have had no problems, I got a whole 2 miles and I misfired and engine light back on. I drove for a while and light went off and then misfired again. Before I bring it back in I was looking for some insight. I can't understand how it wasn't fixed right the first time but I don't want to go back and get a few thousand bill either. Could fixing one coil cause another to go bad.
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Toyota read the codes wrong and told me that I need a new hybrid battery. That is incorrect info. Codes P0300 P0301 P0302P0303. The codes mean misfire in cylinders 1 , 2 and 3. I have had injector cleaned in the past new spark plugs. If I drive it it gets warmed up and shuts down. It will restart and run maybe 7 more miles the same. The brake light comes on and I have to restart it.
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A couple of weeks ago the check engine light came on and when I had the codes checked it showed a problem with the EGR valve. I replaced it and the light went off. A week later the check engine light came back on but when I had the error codes checked there weren't any. After a few days the light went off but earlier today it came back on. There are still no error codes.
I forgot to mention that it's a 2000 Camry, 6-cyl.
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