I have a 2001 BMW 330i. The car has been a dream since the beginning but lately issues have risen to the surface. Today, when I turned off the ignition all the dashboard lights remained on. The keys in hand, lights off, nothing else on, but the dashboard was lit up light a christmas party. I recently recharged my battery, a problem, I think, caused by the cold temperatures.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 BMW 330i. The car has been a dream since the beggining but lately issues have risen to the surface. Today, when I turned off the ignition all the dashboard lights remained on. The keys in hand, lights off, nothing else on, but the dashboard was lit up light a christmas party. I recently recharged my battery, a problem, I think, caused by the cold temperatures. Other than that I have not noticed anything wrong ..
View 1 RepliesOk so my santa fe is doing some weird things. No dashboard lights work the car wont turn over, it has new battery new starter new ignition and no fuses are blown. Basically it seems electronically dead.
My mother in law was driving it and it just killed, my brother in law changed the starter and battery first then the ignition switch.
I have been working on cars for 15 years and i've never come across this problem.
I have a 2003 Honda Pilot with about 152,000 miles on it. Recently while driving if i have the radio on or have my ipod hooked up, the volume will turn all the way down and the dashboard warning lights will turn on. It only lasts for a few seconds at a time but it happens very randomly. Sometimes it won't happen at all and other times it will occur every few minutes or so.After the few seconds the volume turns back up to its previous set level and the dashboard lights go back to normal. The way the lights come on seems pretty random as well. Sometimes it will just be the "parking break" light and other times it will be all of the warning lights. I'm not sure what the problem is. Maybe a fuse is shorting out?
View 4 RepliesI just bought this 2004, and I'm having issues with it
My Phaeton v8 won't start at all after doing my research it seem to be the typical wet KESSY issue. Fine I went ahead and matched the KESSY part # ordered a replacement from a used 04 Porsche Cayenne S.
While replacing the bad KESSY my negative on the battery was disconnected, and my key remained stuck on the ignition, I've plugged in the battery and saw dash lights come up then they turned off.
At this time, I was able to get my key out of the ignition (I guess the KESSY replacement is working normally) as I was not able to get my key back.
So I guess my kessy needs to get re-programmed to start my car as well my keys I do have a vag-com as well but don't know how to proceed there a way to Program my keys and kessy or I need to go to the dealer?
I just want to start this car and drive it I don't want to get stuck in this process if there no way to do it myself.
When I insert the key, there is current to the dashboard and the steering wheel moves into position. When I try to start the car, the dashboard is illuminated- the radio comes on etc- but the starter does not engage all. It's totally quiet. I remove the key, insert the key and try again. Sometimes the starter engages, sometimes not. When it cranks, it starts right up. The battery is good. We had the ignition switch changed out a while back, but it didn't really improve the situation.
View 2 Replies2005 Ford Focus : About 10 months ago noticed my battery light was faintly visible with car off and key out of ignition. It was faint and erratically pulsing, it also did this when car was running. This issue would last a week or so, then go away for a while...then come back.
Then it spread to include the ABS light too, and eventually became permanent. But six weeks ago, after driving from CA to WI, it went away...for a few weeks, but came back.
A few days ago I went to my car, and it spread to include the checkfuel cap, oil, and door ajar lights. Also a loud beep occurs at erratic intervals. The lights all flash and pulse individually. Most are faint, but the oil light and door ajar light seem full strength. When I turn the key to second position, all the lights light up full strength and solid, like they're supposed to (for the testing phase).
Then once car is on, they go back to flickering faintly...but the loud beep goes away. I'm concerned about the beeping running down the battery with car off-so I pulled out fuse #36, which is for "a/c swith, instrument cluster". This stops the beeping and flickering, cuz the lights no longer have power to them.
The battery voltage is 12.3 volts, and while running it's a steady 14.35 volts.
I recently bought a 2009 Toyota Corolla. The other day I noticed when I opened my door and the keys were still in the ignition, it either did not beep at all to warn me or only beeped once very briefly. I am almost certain I recall it beeping constantly until I pulled the keys out of the ignition. This feature has saved me from locking my keys in my car a few times and would like it to work again.
There are no other issues that I have had with the car, the ignition works fine as well as everything else.
We have a 2004 2.4L 4 cyl Santa Fe. Turn ignition key get a click and engine will not turn over. Push key in harder and engine may start fine. If it is the key ignition switch or something else. is there somewhere I can look to see how to remove the ignition switch?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 Prius with 105K miles on it. It was working perfectly until one day, the dashboard lights didn't turn on. I messed with the switch to the left of the wheel just to make sure I hadn't touched it, and that didn't work to turn them on.... then I went to turn my car off and it just didn't turn off! I tried several different techniques, made sure it was in park and not in neutral, and it just wouldn't turn off.
View 12 Replies2001 Dakota: With the Ignition "ON" (engine running or not)any lights that are ON blink off and on. if the Ignition switch is in the "OFF" or "accessories" positions they work normally. It can be just the dome lights, the Park lights or all of the lights. It some times takes 10 to 15 minutes for this to begin, but once it starts, it is continuous. I have checked the switches, the relays, and every connection I can find. I unplugged the connector from the dash to the chassis and it stopped. I ASSume that means it is probably not the "Central Timing Module," otherwise the problem would continue. I don't know what could be in that circuit that would overload the system only with the Ignition ON.
View 3 RepliesLast week, my 2002 V6 Camry decided it didn't want to start when the key was turned. That was with my wife driving. By the time I got out there, the car was running just fine. She said it didn't turn over, didn't click, nothing.
Today, it did it again, but it didn't have that magic reawakening like it had last week. I tried jumping it to see if it was the battery, but it did not change anything.
Here's what happens: Turn key to run position, and the dashboard lights up.
Turn key to start position, and there's silence. The clock on the dash turns off (as normal), but the only noise under the hood is the sound of the starter relay making a single click.
Does that mean the next place to look is the starter Solenoid? Can I jump the solenoid like on an old car to see if that starts her up?
This has been driving me crazy for the past 3 years. My car has 276,000 miles and runs great with no hesitation. I drive this car 1/2 the year and my 2012 Nissan Altima the rest of the year. I alternate every other month so neither car sits for too long.
My problem is most of the time the 2003 FORD TAURUS starts right up. However, sometimes, about 1 out of 5 times or so of starting, when I turn the key, I get nothing. The dash board lights come on, but the car does not start. So I found that after turning the key back and forth from ON to ACC (with nothing) and then turning the key back and forth (left to right and back) after doing that 6 or 7 times, the car finally starts .
Then it runs fine, starts the next 5 or 6 times with no problem. Then I turn the key to start it again, then nothing. So I turn the key back and forth 6 or 7 times and it starts. I took it to the Ford dealer and they said I need a starter. I went out and bought a starter and had Pep Boys install the starter (total price was around 1/3 the price quoted from FORD dealer). By the way, Pep Boys also said a new starter will fix this.
Then 3 months later, same problem. I took it back to Pep Boys and they said most likely the starter is defective. So I got the starter replaced, and all was great for another 3 months. Then the same problem. So I took it to NTB and NTB said it was also the starter. So I had them install a brand new starter.
All was Ok. My battery is brand new and my alternator is ok, used but OK.
Then 6 months later, the same problem. So a friend of mine tried to fix it. He unplugged the battery over nite, and had my re plug the battery cables to the battery terminals the next morning. And all was fine for 4 months. Then the same problem again. This time it took about 14 or 15 key turns before the car finally started. (Note: after 8 turns of the key back and forth, it resets the key FOB for programming on the Ford Taurus). This guy checked my electrical and cable from the starter to the battery, and he said all was Ok. He then tried to start the car, turned the key, and it started right up.
I don't mind turning the key back and forth, but if someone is in the car with me with the summer Atlanta heat and humidity, it can be a little uncomfortable, until the car finally starts. Keep in mind, the car always starts eventually. The car has never let me Down. I got the car in 2007 and the car still runs great and the A.C. blows super cold, no funny smells inside the car and the transmission is good. I like this car. I think it is built Much better than the 2012 Nissan Altima.
My 2006 V8 has starting problems since a few days ago.
After the problem occurred I was able to start the car using the right/left/right key turn but this worked only one time. Further attempts did not work. Upon the turn of the key all the dashboard lights would come up, the voltage appeared to come up over 12 volts but no joy on turning over the starter.
Vag Com scans on this car always showed some low voltage errors and the left side battery was old so I replaced the left side battery, something I had intended to do before too long anyway. After replacing the left side battery the car started once, not as it should but again using the right/left/right key sequence. I drove the car around the block and all seemed well, but after shutting it off, the same symptoms reappeared, no start...
Another poster had similar problems and it turned out to be relay 433 in the right side plenum relay/fuse box. I replaced this relay with a known good one, no change in the symptoms.
I disconnected the negative post of the starter battery, again after reading of another poster's experience, and the car starts right up ! Reconnecting the starter battery brings back the no start behavior.
I have no reason to suspect the starter battery, voltage is 12.6 or so...
Attached is a scan done on the car after installing the new left side battery:
Chassis Type: 3D - VW Phaeton
2000 Camry 4 CYL ... Very sporadically, the car won't start. The battery was replaced a year ago, so that's not the problem. The lights on the dashboard turn on, but there is no sound and the car won't turn on. After turning the key 10-12 times, the car finally starts. It happens in rain, no rain, mild or hot weather. There just does not seem to be a reason. We had the mechanic change the spark plugs, but that didn't work. He doesn't want to start replacing things willy-nilly until he can duplicate the problem in his shop. We just don't want our daughter out late at night, and have THAT be the one time the car refuses to start.
View 7 RepliesMy uncle (school district mechanic) and I recently replaced the front brake pads and front rotors on my 2003 Dodge Stratus. Within the last couple weeks, the dash lights for my ABS and Traction Control have remained on while I'm driving. I have also noticed a grinding noise on the front, driver side wheel, similar to what I'd hear when I applied my brakes on an icy section of road. I am concerned that my brakes may fail. My uncle and I have not been able to figure out what the problem might be.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 Hyundai Tiburon. I have an aftermarket radio in my car that has the capability to be hooked up to a rear view camera. I did not put it in, I also do not have a back up camera. It was done before I got the car. At first it was just a quirky thing, whenever I would turn on the headlights, the radio would switch to back up mode. I would turn the radio on and then off again and everything was fine. Then every once in a while the radio and clock would reset. I kept getting annoyed with that so I left the light switch on. (When i turn my car off the headlights turn off as well) Then it occasionally started resetting when i turned the car on. Now as I drive down the road and my car has been on for 20 min, half hour, the dashboard lights turn off and the clock and radio reset.
View 10 Replies2001 Honda Odyssey 200k miles
recent (1-month-old) changes: a-new alternator-new a/c generator
What is happening:1) starting the car all instrumental dash lights stayed on and only very slowly cleared. This happened all the time I started the car.2) All red lights (brake, battery, and all doors open) start turning on together quite often.3) And I see a dropping in 'power' voltage. Like my headlights are getting darker. The headlights are also buring out quite often,
I went toan AAA mechanic and they checked the car and found nothing. And he said he did nothing.Since then all instrument dash lights turn off at normal speed.But all the red lights still light regularly. But less than before.This (the red lights lighting) happens more often if A/C in on. Less if the only fan is on. And even less while driving - usually when slowing down.
Recently, my dashboard lights stopped working. All of the indicators work like gas light, check engine, etc. I checked every fuse and they seem to be working fine.
I work 45 minutes away and usually drive home at night so I'd love to be able to see my speed again without relying on my GPS.
On my 2002 Santa Fe I just noticed that the instrument lights on the dashboard are out. Also the ones that show the shift position do not work when you put the parking lights or headlights on except R lights up. I have checked about 10 different fuses, but they are all good. All exterior lights and turn signals work.
View 2 RepliesGot a 2001 Alero 4 cyl. Couple. Almost a month ago that car wouldn't turn over. Did the 10 min passlock procedure and it started. Been OK til today. So now the key won't turn in the ignition. Won't turn at all. Steering wheel is not locked, car is locked in park. Tried to turn it while moving wheel, shifter, etc. to no avail.
Is this a bad ignition lock cylinder? If so, I've read some procedures on how to replace this thing. It looks horrible. And it seems that one needs to turn the key to get the cylinder out. Is this correct? Remember, my key won't turn at all. Also, is there any way to key it to match the existing keys without taking it to a stealer/dealer? I saw a part on Rock Auto that comes with 2 keys. But I guess then the ignition keys would be different from door/trunk.