BMW - 330 :: 2001 - All Dashboard Lights Remained On When Turned Off The Ignition
Jan 31, 2011
I have a 2001 BMW 330i. The car has been a dream since the beggining but lately issues have risen to the surface. Today, when I turned off the ignition all the dashboard lights remained on. The keys in hand, lights off, nothing else on, but the dashboard was lit up light a christmas party. I recently recharged my battery, a problem, I think, caused by the cold temperatures. Other than that I have not noticed anything wrong ..
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I have a 2001 BMW 330i. The car has been a dream since the beginning but lately issues have risen to the surface. Today, when I turned off the ignition all the dashboard lights remained on. The keys in hand, lights off, nothing else on, but the dashboard was lit up light a christmas party. I recently recharged my battery, a problem, I think, caused by the cold temperatures.
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I just bought this 2004, and I'm having issues with it
My Phaeton v8 won't start at all after doing my research it seem to be the typical wet KESSY issue. Fine I went ahead and matched the KESSY part # ordered a replacement from a used 04 Porsche Cayenne S.
While replacing the bad KESSY my negative on the battery was disconnected, and my key remained stuck on the ignition, I've plugged in the battery and saw dash lights come up then they turned off.
At this time, I was able to get my key out of the ignition (I guess the KESSY replacement is working normally) as I was not able to get my key back.
So I guess my kessy needs to get re-programmed to start my car as well my keys I do have a vag-com as well but don't know how to proceed there a way to Program my keys and kessy or I need to go to the dealer?
I just want to start this car and drive it I don't want to get stuck in this process if there no way to do it myself.
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2005 Ford Focus : About 10 months ago noticed my battery light was faintly visible with car off and key out of ignition. It was faint and erratically pulsing, it also did this when car was running. This issue would last a week or so, then go away for a while...then come back.
Then it spread to include the ABS light too, and eventually became permanent. But six weeks ago, after driving from CA to WI, it went away...for a few weeks, but came back.
A few days ago I went to my car, and it spread to include the checkfuel cap, oil, and door ajar lights. Also a loud beep occurs at erratic intervals. The lights all flash and pulse individually. Most are faint, but the oil light and door ajar light seem full strength. When I turn the key to second position, all the lights light up full strength and solid, like they're supposed to (for the testing phase).
Then once car is on, they go back to flickering faintly...but the loud beep goes away. I'm concerned about the beeping running down the battery with car off-so I pulled out fuse #36, which is for "a/c swith, instrument cluster". This stops the beeping and flickering, cuz the lights no longer have power to them.
The battery voltage is 12.3 volts, and while running it's a steady 14.35 volts.
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I recently bought a 2009 Toyota Corolla. The other day I noticed when I opened my door and the keys were still in the ignition, it either did not beep at all to warn me or only beeped once very briefly. I am almost certain I recall it beeping constantly until I pulled the keys out of the ignition. This feature has saved me from locking my keys in my car a few times and would like it to work again.
There are no other issues that I have had with the car, the ignition works fine as well as everything else.
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A couple weeks ago i started to get the "ABS", "ESP off", and a picture of a truck heading downhill "hill descent"? warning lights when i turned the ignition on. The warning lights would all stay on and this was happening about 25% of the time that i started the car. Once on they stay on until i turn ignition off. The owners manual states the when the "ABS" failure light comes on it automatically turns ESP off. So I tested to see if ABS really not working and sure enough i was able to get wheels to lock up and i smoked the tires pretty good.
I took car to dealer and they found a hard fault code for the ABS failure but they could not find anything wrong so they ended up cleaning all connections - whatever that means. That was yesterday. Today the warning lights all came back on.
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01 Elantra, once warmed up to running temp starts to run like a pig & wont idle, has new plugs/leads.
Funny thing is there is no engine check light, in fact it doesn't even come on for the 6 seconds when the ignition is first turned on at all.
Secondly I have OBD2/ELM327 with scanpro but it doesn't connect to the ECU.
We put it into a shop & they claim they were able to connect to ecu but gave no codes which I find a bit strange.
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I have a 2004 Elantra GT, and for the past year it sometimes makes no attempt to start when the ignition key is turned. All the dashboard lights, radio, bells and whistles are fine, but once the key is turned to start nothing happens. There are no clicks or anything. Some dashboard lights stay on and I can hear the initial whirring under the hood from the electrical system.
I've replaced the battery, ignition wires, and plugs. This will happen very erratically. Then all of a sudden it will fire up like nothing was wrong. This is always over a several minute time span of trying and retrying to start. I took it to a mechanic but we can never replicate the problem while there.
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2001 Ford Taurus 3.0 DOHC. Starting Problem. When the door is opened the interior lights come on, door dings, etc. As soon as the ignition is turned everything goes black all power is lost. Disconnect battery cable and reconnect, the open door again and the interior lights come on, door dings, insert key and turn, everything goes black, the car does not start. This cycle repeats over and over again every time the battery is disconnected and reconnected. I have replaced the battery, ignition switch. The starter was replaced last year. Why does power blackout, and car not start when the key is turned?
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Ok, so I'm working on a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe, 93,000 miles. The vehicle runs great! So great that you cant get it to stop running!! The problem is intermittent and generally happens after the vehicle has been running for at least 3 minutes. I turn the key off and she keeps on running (not dieseling, but running at 340-450 rpms!) I have already removed the aftermarket remote start that was installed on the vehicle thinking that was the problem, it was not. Then I went to the ignition switch and unplugged that, also to no avail! I plugged my scan tool in and can communicate with the computer and view pids while the key is on. When I turn the key off, I should loose communication. When everything acting normal and the car actually shuts off with the key, I loose communication with the computer upon turning the key off. When I turn the key off and the veh. keeps running, I do NOT loose communication with the pcm. The only way to shut the car off is to step on the gas pedal. Otherwise it'll run at 400 or so RPM for an hour or so!!
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My wife's 2001 Gran Prix has a problem with the ignition switch, or related to the ignition switch. Intermittently (more frequently in warm weather or when the car's warm) the ignition switch can't be turned back to the 'off' position all the way, meaning the key can't be removed from the switch. We've heard from several mechanics that there are a couple problems that can cause this, and in fact had the ignition switch replaced which did not solve the problem. I understand there is a connection to the transmission or gear shift lever that may also be part of this problem in some way. There can only be so many solenoids, switches, connections, etc, related to this, I'd like to fix the problem and avoid spending money unnecessarily.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Sante Fe 2.4L that keeps blowing the ECU fuse under the hood when the ignition is turned on. We have replace the fuel pump and the inertia switch. I have tested the relay, ignition failure sensor, both coils and O2 sensor wiring.
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I noticed yesterday that my 2001 was stumbling when turning left. Later in the day, the CEL came on, and I retrieved a P0301 code. In both cases, I was driving around town, not cold but not fully warmed up, engine temp around 40-70 C.
I haven't done any further investigation, other than trying some different driving experiments. I've been able to recreate the problem several times starting out with a left turn when the car briefly runs on three cylinders. Going straight or turning right is fine.
Question: which cylinder is #1? My intent is to check the plugs and leads first, but since it's cold outside I'd like to focus my attention as much as possible on the problem area. I thought at first it might be fuel related because of the turning behavior, but on reflection, it feels more like an ignition issue.
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2001 Dakota: With the Ignition "ON" (engine running or not)any lights that are ON blink off and on. if the Ignition switch is in the "OFF" or "accessories" positions they work normally. It can be just the dome lights, the Park lights or all of the lights. It some times takes 10 to 15 minutes for this to begin, but once it starts, it is continuous. I have checked the switches, the relays, and every connection I can find. I unplugged the connector from the dash to the chassis and it stopped. I ASSume that means it is probably not the "Central Timing Module," otherwise the problem would continue. I don't know what could be in that circuit that would overload the system only with the Ignition ON.
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My uncle (school district mechanic) and I recently replaced the front brake pads and front rotors on my 2003 Dodge Stratus. Within the last couple weeks, the dash lights for my ABS and Traction Control have remained on while I'm driving. I have also noticed a grinding noise on the front, driver side wheel, similar to what I'd hear when I applied my brakes on an icy section of road. I am concerned that my brakes may fail. My uncle and I have not been able to figure out what the problem might be.
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2001 Honda Odyssey 200k miles
recent (1-month-old) changes: a-new alternator-new a/c generator
What is happening:1) starting the car all instrumental dash lights stayed on and only very slowly cleared. This happened all the time I started the car.2) All red lights (brake, battery, and all doors open) start turning on together quite often.3) And I see a dropping in 'power' voltage. Like my headlights are getting darker. The headlights are also buring out quite often,
I went toan AAA mechanic and they checked the car and found nothing. And he said he did nothing.Since then all instrument dash lights turn off at normal speed.But all the red lights still light regularly. But less than before.This (the red lights lighting) happens more often if A/C in on. Less if the only fan is on. And even less while driving - usually when slowing down.
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Ok so my santa fe is doing some weird things. No dashboard lights work the car wont turn over, it has new battery new starter new ignition and no fuses are blown. Basically it seems electronically dead.
My mother in law was driving it and it just killed, my brother in law changed the starter and battery first then the ignition switch.
I have been working on cars for 15 years and i've never come across this problem.
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Recently, my dashboard lights stopped working. All of the indicators work like gas light, check engine, etc. I checked every fuse and they seem to be working fine.
I work 45 minutes away and usually drive home at night so I'd love to be able to see my speed again without relying on my GPS.
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On my 2002 Santa Fe I just noticed that the instrument lights on the dashboard are out. Also the ones that show the shift position do not work when you put the parking lights or headlights on except R lights up. I have checked about 10 different fuses, but they are all good. All exterior lights and turn signals work.
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Just install a car kit for buddy's 2004 Hyundai Elantra Gt. Installation went fine, later that night he noticed that his dashboard lights stopped working.
Checked all the fuses an they seem fine, checked to make sure we connected all the plugs, all connected. Even swapped out the cluster fuse with another new fuse an same results no lights.
What could cause the lights to stop all of a sudden?
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Just bought a Santa Fe CRTD CDX on UK plates 2005 year model. After successful test drive took the vehicle home. After 20-30 minutes driving the ABS light came on. Restarted the vehicle and had no problem for next hour.
Next day same procedure so went to Hyundai dealer. After plugging in his laptop he said the sensor near the hand brake was the problem. This was replaced and had no problem all day.
Next day after 30 mins driving on came the light again. Took the vehicle back to the garage where I bought it and its been there for 4 days. They say the light has not come on, but I would question whether they would drive around for 30-60 minutes.
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