BMW - 318 :: Aircon / Heater Stayed On Even When Car Is Completely Off
May 21, 2012
I have a BMW 318i and today the aircon/heater came on by itself and has stayed on, even when the car is completely off. I took it to an auto shop and the guy looked at the aircong flicked on/off all the buttons and said he would need to get it in for repair and I said I am concerned that if the car is turned off but the aircon is still running the car could run the battery flat or worse catch fire. He then said..its not on, and he was right he had turned it off.
I drove home knowing that I have had this car 10 years and its never done this before and it started up again. I parked my car and it was still running, so I decided to do what I saw him do and turn every button on and off. It seems to me to be an electric issue. This car always has its oil light on as well.
One last thing its nearly winter here and each day I drive the kids to school and the car seems to jut back and forth a bit when trying to drive. i can put my foot down on the pedal and and it takes a while for it to sbe responsive that it picks up speed. Could they be related?
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While I was trying to park, I heard a clunk, wheels stayed in the same position. The steering wheel is loose as hell, it literally feels like its buttered up and wont turn the wheels at all, what to buy to fix it? I am thinking I just need a new gearbox....
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I have an 06 Sonata 4Cyl
My air conditioner has decided to stop working. The compressor wont turn on. This has happened in the past a handful of times but it has always come back either after changing my cabin air filter or just by itself after a few minutes. So far its been 24 hours and it still doesn't work.
From reading online, I'm thinking one thing to check is the Evaporator Temperature Sensor. It seems like that could explain the behavior in the past..
In the manual, it says "Pull out out the passenger's crash pad center low cover". Where is this?
After watching this video: [URL] .... I thought I knew where it was, but when I look in that location, I don't see any connectors.
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1994 BMW 540.... My car stopped suddenly while I was driving 30 mph. The radio stayed on. I pulled over. I tried to start the engine a couple times and finally it started. I drove for another few minutes and then parked and idled the car. After idling the car for about 5 minutes it turned off, and the radio stayed on. I tried starting it again for 5-10 minutes but was unable to. I got it towed and brought to a mechanic. The mechanic wasn't able to start it either, so he sprayed some starter fluid on the engine and it was able to start. He drove it around and idled it and was unable to recognize what the problem was. He didn't expect it to stay running with just the started fluid, but it did. He has no clue what happened and is not able to replicate it. There were no engine codes. I'm afraid to drive the car in case it stops again. Wat is going on? Is it safe to drive? I don't want to be driving 60 mph and have this happen again.
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So, to get out of a parking spot I had to go into reverse, then put it into drive, got onto the freeway with my Prius v three and then looked down at the screen and the backup camera was still on. It clicked back to my ipod or nav or whatever after another minute or so on it's own.
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Getting brakes HARD and have esp come on and stay on until shut the car off and restarted?
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I am coming out of a loaded Treg that had its footwell lights on low while driving the car, which I really liked. While my new B6 also has footwell lights they turn off once the car is started up. Is there any way to get the footwell lights to stay on from the MFI? Can it be VAGGED? Or is there no way to do this?
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My wife called today. After she shut off the car today (13F and 2" snow today), she "says" the car stayed on for 10-15 seconds before it went quiet. I'm assuming it was fan noise, since I don't see how the car can stay running if the key was removed. She didn't have the REST button set. What is "staying on". Haven't heard this before today.
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Last night I changed out my alternator and charged the batteries on my Excursion. When I went to start it up the ABS light stayed on. I scanned for codes but no luck there.
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I was waiting in the mall parking lot. I never got out of the car, so the headlights stayed on and drained the 12v battery. A good Samaritan "jumped" the car with a portable jump-start device. The next morning, I hit PriusChat and found out about the system diagnostic. It shows that battery has one foot in the grave and another on a banana peel - 12.1v at rest and dropping to 9.8v with the dome light on for a few minutes! Back to PriusChat to research replacement batteries, their sourcing and installation.
I have an Optima Yellow Top on order, as well as a pair of those jump-starters (One for the Pruis and one for the pickup). Before I install the new battery, should I have it trickle-charged overnight?
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1999 Olds Intrigue, 3.8 eng.Last month, I replaced the Oil Level sensor while changing the oil, which was causing an oil leak due to a broke seal. Three weeks later, the "Low Oil" light came on and stayed on shortly after starting the car. I checked the oil level and it was full. I went ahead and drove it to work. No engine operating errors during the drive. While continuing to drive the car (yes, driving it), I did notice that the light stays off after starting the engine at operating temps, but comes on while the engine is cool (Faulty sensor?) I asked an Autozone associate about a Oil Pressure gauge to test the engine but was told that they dont sell such a thing. Chiltons repair manual says to use a 3amp fuse jumper to test the Oil Level and Oil Pressure sensor. What a fuse jumper is.
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So today I was playing around with a Honda civic from light to light with my 2012 v6 AWD Santa fe. After lighting the tires up on the first light I decided to hit the AWD lock switch.
Second stop light was great, my suv launched and before I knew it I was doing 100km/h. Only problem is my AWD light stayed on and didn't disengage? Is this normal?... I could be wrong but I think my check engine light flashed but I'm not 100% on that.
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I started hearing loud fan like noise today. It stayed on for a bit after the car was turned off. I usually wouldn't mind lil bit of fan noise.. but this was horrific loud.. I'm guessing I just need to replace the fan.
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Yesterday morning, when starting my 2010 Prius, the red BRAKE light stayed on, and also the yellow Traction Control light and yellow ABS light. The brakes seemed less than usual. Dealer says the left rear caliper froze up, causing the ABS sensor to melt, causing the system to go into fail-safe mode (no regenerative braking).
I have done no hard braking, the car is currently getting over 50 mpg, and has only 57,368 miles on it. I checked the brake fluid level, it looks fine. Also shut down and restarted several times, no change, lights still on.
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I had the oil changed in my 2009 Prius but the "change oil" light stayed lit. Rather than taking it back in to the Jiffy Lube, I found instructions on this site for resetting the light (hold down odometer button while pressing on button twice, etc.) and the display did what it was supposed to--the numbers were replaced with dashes and it seemed like the system reset. But the oil light remained on. I tried it several times to no avail.
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This morning I went out to warm my car up for a few minutes because it has been so cold and when I started it the red triangle warning light stayed on and the consumption screen said "problem" across the top with a little icon in the upper left hand corner that looked similar to a high beam headlight indicator. I turned the car off and started it again wondering if it would clear which it did not. I left it running and went inside to get my child and by the time I came out it had cleared itself.
In typing this I recall that I thought it stayed on a little longer than normal the other day and just ignored it thinking it was still in lamp test mode on initial start up.
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I recently had my tpms light turn on when I started my car in the morning. It blinked for about a minute and then stayed on. After checking my tire pressure and seeing they were all normal, I checked online and found that when the tpms light acts like it is for me, it means there is a malfunction somewhere, so rather than deal with trying to fix it, I went into vagcom to turn it off. I went to the proper byte/box for tpms and unchecked it. But the light is still on...
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Car was taking 3-4 seconds to turn over when I started it one night. After that, flashing CEL and then CEL stayed. Car idles ridiculously rough, thought it was just a coil pack but seems to be a lot more. What is going on with my car?
Performance mods:
APR intake (stage 1&2)
SPM track edition turboback
Stage 2 revo software
R8 coilpacks and NGK plugs put in 9-10k miles ago
Have 52k miles on the car if that matters
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I have 2006 Honda civic my SRS indicator light came on and stayed on about a week and a half ago, Today while driving the car i turned the steering wheel and the horn went on by itself and even stayed on for a minute. Later the volume on the radio went off when i turned the steering wheel and then the cruise control light came on and stayed on, i can't' turn it off. The horn no longer works.
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Just got in my car and the clutch went to the floor and stayed there when I stepped on it. What are the steps to diagnose this problem? I'm assuming my slave cylinder went kaput!
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Randomly, on my way home from work yesterday, the ECS light turned on, and stayed on for about 10 miles.
I got home, turned the car on and off, even drove around for 10 more minutes, and the light never turned back on.
Now this morning, on my way to work, the light popped back on and stayed on.
I have a 2011 Santa Fe, 4 cylinder.
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