BMW :: 2008 - Stalls Upon Releasing Gas Pedal?
May 18, 2012
I had a question about a weird symptom that my 2008 BMW 528i is having. When I take my foot off the gas pedal when I'm going 10-30 mph, the car seems to brake/stall momentarily. It almost feels as if the car is jerking for half a second. If I slowly let off the gas pedal this doesn't happen. It also doesn't happen at high mph.
My dealer said this is normal but I have never experienced this in all my time driving a Tacoma or accord. Wondering what could possibly be wrong with the car.
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I noticed that when I'm stepping on the gas pedal, revving up, when I release the gas pedal I can hear the engine revving up some more instead of slowing down.
When I release the pedal even if the revolution light on the dashboard shows that it is slowly dropping, the engine is still making the noise as if I am stepping on the gas harder for about a second.
Example: I am at a stop, when I start going from 0 to 30 mph, if I release the gas right away that's when I notice this issue.
This doesnt happen when I'm cruising on the same speed and suddenly release the gas.
I wonder if this is an indication the my tranny is having a problem.
I have a 2013 prius C 2...
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I have a 2005 Murano, 96K.
In Aug 2011, I had the rear disc brakes/rotors replaced. Front ones were replaced in Feb of this year.
For the past month, whenever I release the brake, I hear squealing (no sound when I press the brake to stop). Last about 5 secs, or until I hit about 15-20 MPH. Seems to happen only after the brakes heat up. I've tried to "Google" the answer, but the answers are mostly for drum brakes.
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Started a few months ago didn't really bother me until now. Started when I would forget the parking brake is on and would just put the car in reverse & wouldn't move until I released the parking brake. Did it about 5-7 times and now every time I brake without the parking brake on, it squeaks & is really annoying. Is there any way to fix this or is it just gonna be complicated & expensive?
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2004 Accent 1.6L 5spd
Purchased this car used with 64k miles on it. I am in the process of performing the 60k miles service items and going through typical replacement of worn parts.
I have noticed that my rear passenger brake drum assembly squeaks when I let off the brake pedal. Note that this is not noise when applying brake pressue, but after releasing the brakes. Additionally, the drum happens to be rusted very badly. It took a good amount of brute force to remove the drum in order to inspect the brake assembly. There was a lot of brake dust built up and I thought that cleaning that out would get rid of the noise.
I suspect it could be one of the springs but I cannot be for certain. The squeak does not occur when I release the parking brake.
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My R has been giving me some trouble lately. First I had some issues, I thought were clutch related.
-A loud clunk when releasing clutch pedal (only when engine running) and sometimes when depressing it too.
-Randomly changing clutch biting point when driving hard. So e.g. when revving through 1st and 2nd gear the clutch would bite much lower than usual. (This was so weird.)
-Whistling sound when changing from 1st to 2nd gear.
Replaced the clutch, flywheel, pressure plate and the TOB and bled the system several times. Also new solid DLI motor mounts and new oem dogbone mount.
There was some side-to-side play on input shaft that I was told is not a big deal. Also this gearbox has always been much louder than other cars Ive driven.
Now that weird changing clutch biting point is gone but other issues are still there. And now, because of the lightweight smf and the motor mounts the gears shatter and whine so much more on low revs and during engine braking. I know 02m s tend to do that but its so loud I am a bit worried.
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2000 Dodge Neon clacking noise at low rpm after releasing gas pedal. Around the 2000 rpm range letting off the gas produces a clacking noise. I have listened to the engine with a long screwdriver at idle and revving. The noise is not always present in this condition. Although when it has come up it seams to coming from behind the engine. Does not seem to be valves, connecting rod or main bearings etc.... Only at low rpm 1200 thru 2000 rpm WHEN releasing the throttle. Clacking seams to be timed with the crankshaft as it reduces the sound as the engine reduces rpm, not at the speed of the cams. Sounds fine at idle, going through gears and at freeway rpm's.
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On releasing the clutch pedal, a creaking noise can be heard, which:
- sounds and feels like a rusty spring being unloaded
- occurs for the entire range of pedal travel, but worse near the bottom
- is louder outside the car than inside
- happens not only when driving, but also when stationary with the engine off
I don't think anything is wrong with the clutch itself, or any bearings, or major components... It just feels like something needs to be lubed. I've lubed the spring above the pedal inside the car, with no real effect.
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I've had the EV mode switch installed since the day I bought my Prius. Its great for coasting down the hill when I first start out, or to move it around my garage / driveway. But yesterday, I wanted to see if I could make it home (2-3 miles, mostly downhill) in EV mode. So as I was driving, I puched the button, it beeped twice meaning it wasn't going to engage, and I pushed it again, just to show it who the boss was. The EV mode did not engage, but now everytime I let go of the gas pedal (car warm, under 45 mph, battery above 2 bars) the engine shuts off instantly!
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I get a clunk noise when stepping on and releasing the brakes occasionally but not always. This occurs even with the engine off and the vehicle stationary. I also hear some other noise like some sort of vacuum servo thing is happening.
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After stepping over gas pedal revving up, when I release the gas pedal I can hear the engine revving up some more instead of slowing down.
When I release the pedal, the engine is still making the noise as if I am stepping on the gas harder for about 3 seconds. when this happened, EV mode will be always not available, and gasoline consumption is increased. Getting lower MPG.
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Bought a 2004 GX470 a few months ago. Took it into the local Toyota dealer for oil change (40+ miles to nearest Lexus)
They told me I needed to replace front brake pads, so I did that. Immediately after they finished I noticed what I would describe as a clack or clank sound when pressing or releasing the brake pedal.
This sound was not there before. I went back inside and told them, the tech came out and listened and said it would probably go away. I took the car back in a couple weeks later and they applied some type of lube which didn't work. The service rep said that the only way to remove sound was to replace some type of pin.
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I have a 2000 X 5.4... There is a loud roaring noise when releasing gas pedal or stopped (doesn't matter whether its in park or drive)...noise stops when giving gas...the noise is almost like a bull horn...there are no engine lights on so can't get a code...
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I had 2 brake related issues. First was a honking noise when pressing/releasing the brake pedal (covered by T-SB-0363-10, attached below). Second was rear brake squeaks, particularly when backing up (T-SB-0102-11, attached below). I had the squeak issue repaired under a previous TSB a few years ago, but the noise came back after a while, and the updated TSB includes replacing the pads and other parts.
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I have an 00 Accent 1.5 liter 5 speed with about 192000 miles on it. I have put about a tank of gas through it since I've owned it, so I can't give a lot of background on it. When I got it the previous owner told me it was popping out of fifth gear and the clutch fluid leaked.
Upon driving it around a while I noticed it would pop out of fifth and third gears almost at random, but seemed to happen more when I applied throttle. I assumed it was an issue with the shifter not fully engaging the gears, and checked out the bushings under the hood and in the console. All looked good, and I didn't see any extra play.
I drove the car for about 30 miles straight and had to downshift and wasn't able to get the car to go into any gear but fifth. I was moving about 20 mph when this occurred. I was able to limp along to a parking lot where I let the car sit for about ten min and I shifted through the gears when stopped. I headed back home with this problem throughout the trip. There is a sound that happens on occasion (that stops when I press the clutch pedal) that sounds like a bad bearing in the clutch area.
When I'm stopped with the car in neutral and I release the clutch the car stalls like it's in gear. I was able to get the car to move some, but it really doesn't want to it acts like there is something jammed in the gears and popped really loud when I backed it up.
There is fluid for the master cylinder, and I can see the slave cylinder moving when the pedal is pressed. I jacked it up and removed the plug to check for gear oil, and it came pouring out, so I think it has fluid in the gearbox. I'm pretty sure it needs a clutch at the least. I think there may be some internal damage in the tranny, and I'm only into the car for the time it took to power wash a house and don't want to get involved in a big mess.
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I have a 2001 Lexus ES 300 and each time I start the car the RPMs will dive straight back to 0 and the car will die unless I keep my foot on the gas pedal (foot off pedal = RPMs drop to 0 and car dies). However, once I get up to speed and drive for a while, the RPMs will eventually return to normal and I can take my foot off the pedal without worrying about the RMPs dropping to 0 and having the car stall.
This problem used to happen sporadically but now it happens almost every time I start the car. I’ve taken it to two separate mechanics (both “repaired” the problem but it started to come back after a week of driving, I’ve forgotten what changes they did to it as this happened a while ago – but from now on I will make sure to document what’s being repaired so I can finally get this problem fixed).
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1995 Mazda Protege1.5 LAuto153K miles.
My car was running fine, then one day it started sputtering while driving, mostly when I accelerated. It stalled and I could not get it started. This happened on a day when it was raining hard, but not sure that had anything to do with it. A few days later when I went to pick the car up it started right up, it had stopped raining and been dry for 2 days prior. But about a mile into the drive back home it stalled and I could not get it started.
Here is what I have tested so far.
- Put in new fuel filter.
- Tested the fuel pressure and pressure regulator
- Tested the injectors with a noid light.
- Tested that the spark plugs were producing a spark.
After I pulled the plugs and cleaned and dried them (they were wet with gas) the car started, but I think not because of anything really related to the plugs. What I've noticed is that when cranking the engine if I give it gas it will not start but if I keep off the throttle it will reluctantly start. But once it starts the idle is smooth and as it should be. Then if I give it any gas it immediately stalls. It seems to me given these symptoms that it is getting enough air to idle but not enough air to match the increased gas.
The only CEL code that I'm getting (which I had before this issue occurred) is the "closed throttle position switch" (I forget the number). If it was an MAF, or IAC, or EGR issue would I not get a code? What this could be and how to test it. Again my guess is its an air intake issue but not sure where.
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As the title says, I have an 02 Supercrew with the 5.4. The engine starts when cold and runs fine but sometimes when I start it hot after running for a bit, it will stall out unless I keep my foot on the gas pedal. This seems to only happen on hot days. It was about 90 F here yesterday and I drove it to a shopping mall after supper - maybe 5 miles. It sat for maybe 20 minutes and when I re-started it, it stalled out.
The tach needle just drops slowly to zero and the engine stops. It will re-start without any problem but will only keep running if I keep my foot on the gas and keep the revs up a bit. It has done this a few times in the past few years and only on hot days after it has been running and then sat for a few minutes.
What I should look at? It does not throw any codes and generally runs ok after a few minutes. For example, last night I managed to keep it going by shifting into neutral when required until I got back on the road. I drove 2 or 3 miles and at the next light, it acted like nothing happened.
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I have a 1999 f250 that runs and drives great but the only issue I have is when I baby the gas pedal it stalls a little and when I give it more gas it's fine or if. I'm going 50mph then let off gas and then baby the pedal it's stalls a little.
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I have a 2005 VW jetta 2.0 engine 5 speed. Just replaced right control arm spark plugs wires and coil pack. I had a misfire only when it rained and it got rid of it! Driving home in stop and go traffic and My car stalls out a hear a bang and my clutch pedal drops to the floor. I had noticed some fluid loss but nothing was low I checked everything before I left work. I finally get it towed but I can not shift to first I can shift to 2 3 4 5 and reverse. I was in first when it stalled out during stop and go traffic while it was in first gear and i had the clutch pressed in. Everything Ive google says it is more than likely the Slave cylinder that is right below the air box. I found some that said it could be the release bearing in the gearbox for the tranny...
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I have a 1987 automatic Nissan Sentra XE- two barrel carburetor, mileage 212,880. The car has one major problem that is going to get me hit driving it in rush hour. Most mechanics will not touch the car due to being carburetor.
Let me explain: the car idles real rough at times, hesitates at stop signs and red lights, about stalls out on me when I press the gas pedal to go or when I start to make a left or right turn. However, other times the car has little to no hesitation and idles perfectly. I have not been able to come up with a good a pattern with this problem.
I have replaced, fuel pump & filter, spark plug wires, coil, distributor, ecu computer, ran sea foam through the fuel system and have replaced many vacuum hoses.
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