BMW :: 2006 Shaking And Running Rough After Valve Job
May 19, 2016
I had a valve job on my 2006 Bmw 750 li, when I picked the car up from the shop the engine was loud ,before the job it was quiet couldn't tell the car was on , it also shakes back and forth while idling at every stop light,and when I take my foot off the gas the engine kind of jerks I have taking it back to the shop several times and they seem to not know what it could be they have recalibrated the valves and it seems to not shake soon after I leave but right when I'm a mile or so away it starts to shake again, what could be causing this? I'm pxxxed I paid them close to 4000 to replace the valves and now the car is running rough.
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I have a 2005 325xi BMW with 31,000 miles I get regular oil changes. Recently the engine seems to be running a little rough. The other day, after driving about 15 miles, the car started shaking and getting progressively worse. At first it seemed like the tires, but later it seemed like the engine. Also, when I accelerate, it seemed to get more rough, but again, not all the time. Last night, it was the worse yet. After I left the car for 2 hours, it didn't happen right away. Then it did again, but with 2 more miles to go til home, it stopped! Not sure if it's the fuel pump, fuel filter or even something with the wheels (sway bar?)?
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98 5.0 last week i was driving around for a few hours and everything was fine. Did some work in the garage for a few hours and had to run to the hardware store. Started the truck up and she ran like crap. Engine shaking like a misfire. First thought plugs and wires. Well by then it was late and Easter was the next day didn't get to it till Monday. Well after the change still crappy running.
So I changed the fuel filter and cleaned the mass air. No change. Checked for spark on the coil packs all have spark. Checked the PCV all good there. Checked for vac leaks none found. During that I noticed a small hole in the EGR tube I repaired that but still running like crap backfiring out the exhaust, engine shaking badly at times. I also changed out the FPR on the fuel rail. No change of course.
As of today I changed the coil packs. Again no change. Only code it throws is a EGR high flow after I fixed the hole but was having problems before that.
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My 2001 escape recently decided to act up, it was running rough for a little while and then it died and would only run intermittently after that. I found the #3 coil was bad and the egr valve was broken. I replaced those and now when it decides to run it runs smooth but when you give it has it bogs down and dies and doesn't want to run again for a while. I also put on a new fuel filter and the fuel pump sounds like its running good. I know I'm missing something here but I can't seem to figure it out. Also there are no DTC's at all. I really need this car to be back on the road again.
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On my way into work this morning, my 06 with the 5.4 started running very rough/shaking at low rpms. I could kick it out of overdrive and it would smooth out and seemingly be fine at higher rpms.
This worked out for a couple of miles until the truck just died on me completely. The Edge is showing po351, 352, 353......358 codes. Ignition coil Primary/Secondary circuit fault on every cylinder.
I'm thinking its unlikely that every coil failed simultaneously....computer? When I try to start the truck, it will try to hit on a cylinder or two, but will not run.
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I have a 1992 F-150 straight 6. Several days ago it started running rough and losing power and the trans shifted hard.
I put my code reader on it this morning and it read codes 332 and 334 - Insufficient EGR flow detected and EGR closed valve voltage high...
I have looked for vacuum leaks and found nothing. Is it possible the EGR valve is stuck?
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Accent that won't start. My wife was driving home the other day, and while she was sitting at the light she said she noticed a sudden change in the idle. She said the car starting shaking a little and idling really rough. When she tried to accelerate after the light changed, she said the car sputtered and would barely go.
She was only a couple of blocks from the house so she continued home. The car made it the rest of the way home, but she said it never went over about 5 mph even though she was pressing the accelerator as she would if she were going about 30...the car just never responded. When she pulled into the garage the car died as she was turning. Now it will crank but it won't start at all.
I tested the crankshaft position sensor with my multimeter and it was bad. I bought a new one and put it on, and I tested it immediately. The new one works, so I plugged everything back in and tried to start the car...nothing, just cranks and won't start. It's getting fuel and fire as well (tested both), but it's not hitting on any of the cylinders.
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2007 Accent Hatchback. Put gas in it from an Exxon we have bought from before with no problems. My kids car, running on vapors, put 1/2 tank of gas in. Pulled out of gas station and car starts running really rough, shaking. Still running though. I have gathered some knowledge from other threads, like timing belt needs to be changed (65000 on car). I replaced the plugs as an initial attempt at correcting the problem. Runs better, not great. Saw a thread with changing to better gas, will try that.
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I have Subaru B9 Tribeca 2006. Week ago started the following problems - after starting up, engine is shaking (rough idle) for a few (20-30) seconds and then it's OK. Then I got Check Engine, Cruise and ABS lights on. Diagnose shows mistake in 1st cylinder. changed spark plug, air filter, checked all connections, cleaned injector and throttle. Lights went out and engine was working as new. but the second day car had rough idle again....
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Have a 2007 Sonata (2.4 L inline 4) and been plagued with rough/shaking car when initially started and pull to stop, and generally goes away when fully warmed up. Recently had oil change and service area switched me to a lower viscosity oil (5W30 to 5W20) and checked a solenoid and it was fine. Also did a fuel service treatment I suppose in an attempt to flush out stuff........I was a little surprised he didn't pursue talking about tuning up aspects but maybe none of those codes flashed......a repeating code I do have is Code 11.........though I confess when the codes refer to emission stuff I sort of ignore them.......
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I have a 2008 Accent 1.6L automatic that is running very rough when it accelerates. First of all there was some engine check light, I got the codes and it was a Cylinder misfire. Then I checked the following:
1.- Spark plugs (replaced them same NGK but I didn't gaped them, same result)
2.- Fuel injectors (removed them, cleaned them and installed in different order, same result)
3.- IGN coils (measure resistance, swap them in different places, same result)
4.- Checked most of the sensors including TPS, Crankshaft PS, MAF, Camshaft PS and nothing.
5.- I checked for any type of vacuum leak and I couldn't find one
After all that troubleshooting I cleaned the codes, started the car again and I have the same problem with no check engine lights on except that sometimes I would get a "running rich" code.
I also noticed that the air intake is LOUD like a performance air intake, is that something normal on the accent? (I checked the air filter and its not clogged FYI). I could only think of:
Gap spark plugs to .035
check timing belt
check fuel filter (I don't think so)
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When I'm driving and get above 50-60 I will get the Check Engine Light. Check the codes It shows 6 ---300, 303, 306, 300, 303, 306. When I slow the car down it is running rough, almost like it has a miss.
I reset the computer while this is going on and the engine smooths out and it runs correctly until I keep my pedal down and then it kicks the exact same errors.
Here's strange part number one: Once I get down to about a gallon or two of gas in the car everything seems to run fine. I have plenty of power, no codes and the car runs fantastic!
Strange part number 2: Very occasionally When I get in the car in the morning to go to work, the car is a bit difficult to start. When it finally kicks over, it is immediately running rough. resetting the computer with the engine running does not seem to stop the rough running. If I turn off the engine and let the car set for a bit it will start and run fine, with the exception of the first problem mentioned in this thread. There is no code while it is running rough, but when the Light kicks on as per the first issue mentioned, I have an additional code -- 335. This car has been excellent up until the last few months when this issue developed.
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History: Truck was running okay but acted like a coil was bad when under load. I changed out all the plugs with Motorcraft and put on Summit racing COPs.
After the plug and cop change the truck will run rough after it is warmed up. I changed back to the old COPs and it runs the same.
First I replaced the MAF sensor after finding many posts on here about it. No change.
I read a bunch of posts on oil causing the problem so I used 10-30w and nothing changed.
I searched for a vacuum leak with carb cleaner and couldn't find one. I removed, cleaned and reinstalled the throttle body.
When I did the plug change I disconnected the PCM without disconnecting the battery. Would this cause this type of problem?
I think this is about all the stuff I found to try in the threads that came up through searching.
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The check engine light came on after cleaning the engine and the engine runs rough. Where to look. 2007 Hyundai Accord.
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I have a Ford F150 XLT. I have 67000 miles on it and the other night it just started running rough out of no where near idle. Once you got over 20mph the rough running would go away. I took it to get an engine change and engine flushed but it came back. It doesnt always run rough near idle or below 20mph. The Ford dealer says my engine has only 22 psi oil pressure near hot idle and cant engage the VCT phazers and they want to replace the whole engine.
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Our Accent has just about 86k on it now, back in November it suddenly started running real jerky/rough, misfiring kinda thing. So I was able to drive it to my local repair shop and they found a bad coil pack on #3, so they replaced that and put in new plugs while they were doing it.
Just Saturday we were shopping about 20 miles from home and cranked it up to go home and started doing it again, pretty much identical symptoms, runs out normal at certain RPMs so I knew it was probably same thing...I was able to get it home and then took it in this morning and sure enough now #1 is shot. So they are replacing that. They want about 30$ more per coil then I can order them for myself online so I didn't want to scarf up the money for the other 2 that are still original.
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2006 F350 6.0 ... I am piling up parts for a bulletproof party later this summer. It has gotten grumpy ahead of schedule. I will hook up the AE tomorrow for consultation.
In the meantime. Running rough at 50. Seems to accelerate from a stop semi ok. Sitting at idle, holding rpm at 1750 I hear kind of a thump under the hood and the rpm drops 300, then slowly finds it way back to 1750 and it repeats itself.
This thump has not been noticed in the past. Could this be the VGT not working as expected?
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I have a 2006 f250 with a 6.0 with sct livewire, arp studs&gaskets, oil cooler, blue spring mod, sinister egr cooler and it had been giving me some real troubles lately. Started off as a code for injector #8 so I replaced that and while I was in there I rebuilt the oil rail with new nipple cups and orings, replaced standpipe and dummy plug in that bay(also updated the arc fitting less than a year ago), new exhaust back pressure sensor tube because it was right plugged with carbon, and a new egr valve because that was right packed with carbon as well, all backed together and torqued to spec from the Haynes manual and the truck still sounds like its missing at an idle with some light smoke(just smells like unburnt fuel). From there I went to test the ficm which is also only a couple years old and it seems to stay at a constant 48v so at this point...
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Check engine light had come on, the car was running rough at idle and it would crank hard. So I threw my code scanner on it only to find out it wouldn't link. Drove it to O'Riley's and had them pull the codes. It ran rough and had next to no power on the way there. O'Riley's pulled the codes and we got a P0300 (random multiple misfire), P0301 (cylinder 1 misfire), P0302 (cylinder 2 misfire), and a P0496 (EVAP emissions system high purge flow). So once I got it back to the house, she told me that she had the codes pulled once before and that they told her it could be her gas cap so she replaced it. She also stated that she had replaced the plugs about 3 months ago.
So with new gas cap and new plugs, and these codes, I did a bit of research and come to the conclusion that it'd replace the purge solenoid. The solenoid was making a pretty loud ticking noise and when I pulled it off, it rattled so I figured that was the fix. Pulled her plugs and you can clearly see that cylinder 1 was running VERY lean and cylinder 2 was a little richer but still too lean. Plugged the plugs back into coils and laid them on exhausted. Turned the car over and we had spark. Lead me to think the misfire had something to do with the P0496 EVAP code. Put everything back together and erased the codes. Gave the car back to her and told her to let me know if the light came back on. That was Wednesday last week. Sunday she told me the light came back on and the only code that came up was the P0496 again. When I gave it back to heron Wednesday, it would still crank hard but would start.
Battery is new and checked good, alternator is pulling about 14v and checked good and the starter checked good. My dilemma is the code and the hard crank. She told me that it only cranked hard for her once so I am assuming that has gone away but we're still left with the P0496. I am not 100% sure as to how this system operates but I understand it for the most part. She told me that she had just put gas in it before the light came on. Not sure how much time had elapsed after filling it and the light coming on but I do know she put gas in it. If it's a high purge flow, that makes me think there may be a leak in the system but I'm not sure where to go from here without throwing a bunch of parts and money at it.
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Ok just bought this truck ran fine. Put a sct tuner on that the truck came with and some how got the egr turned on. It had a egr delete so it was smoking and finally found it out that it had turned on but fixed it. Now we have another problem, it will start up and run fine and about 45 seconds it will start running rough and go into a limp mode. It will run rough and starts to die slowly and when it starts to die there is no throttle at all.
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CEL came on last night, OBD code PO420, truck is an 06 f250,5.4? Btw, truck running rough, no power on acceleration, in gear at idle, runs rough....
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