BMW :: 2004 - Engine Hesitation When First Started
May 19, 2012
I have a 2004 325ci. The car will hesitate when first started and not move. It's as if the car is in neutral when I step on the gas as the engine revs and then all of the sudden it jumps into gear and takes off. I had it checked last year for the first time and I was told it was the transmission, that didn't set well with me as that is $5k. I took it to the dealership and they re-programmed it and that worked some as it was August and made it much less noticeable and then it went away as we were moving into the cooler months. I live in Vegas and it is starting to approach those 3 digit temps and the problem is back. It only happens in the warmer temperatures. When I first bought the car in '06 it would have this problem every now and again and it wasn't consistent. Now its very noticeable and driving me crazy! There has to be another reason besides a re-program??? i know the people in the parking garage are wondering why this lady can't drive a stick shift!
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I have a 2004 325ci. The car will hesitate when first started and not move. It's as if the car is in neutral when I step on the gas as the engine revs and then all of the sudden it jumps into gear and takes off. I had it checked last year for the first time and I was told it was the transmission, that didn't set well with me. I took it to the dealership and they re-programmed it and that worked some as it was August and made it much less noticeable and then it went away as we were moving into the cooler months. It is starting to approach those 3 digit temps and the problem is back. It only happens in the warmer temperatures. When I first bought the car in '06 it would have this problem every now and again and it wasn't consistent. Now its very noticeable and driving me crazy! There has to be another reason besides a re-program? I know the people in the parking garage are wondering why this lady can't drive a stick shift!
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I have a 2004 F150 4x4 super crew with te 5.4L in it. Truck has 200K plus miles on it and I went to start it after driving (it may have say for 10 min) the truck hesitated and didn't start and smoke started coming from under the hood. Looked like it was coming from the drivers side maybe mid fender or closer to the firewall. Look at it and nothing was on fire but something defiantly happened cause now its compensating for something. The rpms are up from what they usually are and the drivers information was cleared. Truck runs now but just worried
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I just bought a used 2004 Elantra that has 97,000 miles on it. When I took the vehicle out for a test drive it was smooth and quite. That was on Monday its now Saturday less than 300 miles later and the check engine light came on and it is having serious hesitation issues?! I am going to take it back where I purchased it from on Monday when they open but in the meantime I would like to know if its could be something simple?
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I have a 2004 Pontiac Montana with 90K. If the overnight temperature has been below 40ish, there is a noticeable hesitation or stumble (almost as if the engine cuts out for a second-but never actually stalls out) on the 2 to 1 downshift when braking to a stop while the vehicle is in open loop. As the engine warms up the stumble becomes less noticeable until the temp gauge reaches the 1/4 mark at which point the stumble is gone. It won't return until the following morning - the next cold start. Our mechanic has cleaned the Throttle Body and the MAF- no change. Their transmission guy said he did not think it was a tranny issue. It has no other symptoms and seems to shift normally at all other times. What to do next??
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I have a 2008 Ford F150 4.6L and its been broken down in our shop for quite some time now. It started acting funny when I could not get the truck to do over 80kmh. Slow acceleration, and a horrible shaking when it idled. Eventually it was undriveable since I could go above 50kmh anymore. From looking online we replaced the plugs and coils. We removed the intake to find the gaskets were shot so coolant was leaking into the spark plug tubes which could've been the cause of a misfire. Fixed that. Still the same. We replaced the egr valve and dpfe sensor because we keep getting the P0402 excessive egr flow code. Still no luck. My dad is a journeyman hes just not too familiar with newer trucks.
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I've been having some trouble with engine hesitation after driving for 15-20 minutes and poor MPG on my 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L. I've been slowly running through some tests as I learn how to diagnose car troubles. I just ran a voltage test on my 4 O2 sensors using a bluetooth scan tool and the Torque Pro app. I ran the tests at idle after warming up the engine. To me, the upstream sensors seem fine but downstream sensors are not behaving like they should. Aren't the downstream sensors supposed to be relatively flat around .45 volts while the upstream sensors fluctuate steadily between .1 and .9?
B1S1:
B1S2:
B2S1:
B2S2:
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I posted a while back about my 04 5.4 having an issue at idle. I did all the normal things like replace coil, spark plug, etc etc. No change to the issue. It still acts as though it's misfiring on a cylinder and I get codes P0306 and P0316. Finally took it to ford and had a diagnostic check ran. Everything on the top end was in working order. The tech even put a known working coil on 6 and nothing changed. I was told that it's either an intake or valve issue on that cylinder. But no definite answer to problem.
Fast forward to yesterday. I got a wild hair at lunch and went out and started truck. Pulled injector plug off of 6. No change to the way it was running. I did the same for 5, 7, 8, 1, and 2. All of which made a big difference in the way it ran. It was obviously misfiring with no fuel to cylinder. This gave me the idea to swap 5 and 6 when I got home to see if the issue followed the injector from 6. I did NOT. I pulled the plug on 5 and got the obvious change in the way it ran. So there is definitely something going on at cylinder 6 that I cannot figure out.
PCM, bad intake, bad valve? I'm not rich so a trip to ford for repair is gonna have to wait. Truck seems to run fine when driving except for slight hesitation during acceleration.
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My '92 Integra has ~280K miles. A couple of years ago the tachometer started "bouncing" up and down while the engine seemed to run fine. Some time after, it started to hesitate under acceleration. A few months ago the car died while driving along the highway. The tachometer went up and down as the engine cut off and came back on before finally dying. A tow to the repair shop lead to a tune up, changing of spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and the ignition coil. That got the car running again, with its usual erratic tach and hesitation on acceleration. Then, the car died again in a similar way while driving. I was found to have a dead battery. Replacing it got the car running again...but the tach is still erratic and the car still hesitates. I am concerned that there is still some underlying issue that has not been fixed. I sometimes think it is a loose connection because there are times when the car seems just fine, but that is happening less frequently.
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What's the deal with making fuel filters difficult to replace? My engine has started sputtering (cutting in and out) and I began to wonder if it was the fuel filter. So, I investigated how to change it. Apparently it's part of the fuel pump and located in the fuel tank -- good grief.
A filter is there to catch stuff, and if it catches stuff it can get clogged, if it gets clogged it has to be replaced. It appears they put in the filter to catch stuff but assumed it never would.
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My van will rev really high when started and may stay that way for most of the day. Sometimes once it is turned off it will restart just fine. but when it is revving like this you have to hold the break down at stop lights, constantly slow down because it wants to take off. Now it is stalling when driving slowly. the throttle positioning censor has been replace a couple of times.
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I have 2007 explorer with the 4.6 V8....
Recently it started running horrible. Rough idle, drives badly, hesitation, etc. Check engine light is on, code P0171. I cannot find a vacuum leak, and i am pretty much at a loss. Before it started running poorly i replaced the thermostat, and flushed the coolant. I am assuming this is a coincidence.
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We bought a 09 RX 350 that is a CPO, currently has 75 K on it. When the engine is first started it rattles like crazy and sounds like a diesel while the motor is at idle Once the car warms up it sounds fine.. The dealer tells me this is normal. Last oil change switched to full synthetic and it still rattles at start up.
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2008 GX470..... Car died 3 times on the way...engine started missing a bit then completely died. First time n of Dalhart TX pulled off the road and restarted in a few minutes ran ok for about 30 miles died again. Restarted in a few minutes, filled up and drove 120 miles to Trinidad CO no problems....stopped at Toyota dealer in Trinidad, ran full diagnostics, said fuel mixture would run too high, car was fine now, maybe bad gas. Drove 150 mi no problem to Co Springs. Car died again climbing up to Breckenridge, pulled into gas station, shut down, filled up, restarted and no problems the last 100 miles into Breckenridge? Only commonality when the car died was that I was at half tank of gas. If fuel pump issue should full analysis have showed that?
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2005 has 130,000 trouble free miles. Recently during a long trip the engine started to make more noise than usual. This occurs during acceleration up until the point when you hear the engine really start to work.
I took the car to Toyota and they said it sounded normal. I am picky about my car and know a new noise. My wife even said she can hear it.
I think it sounds a bit like the old lifter rattle my 289 Ford made in my 67 Mustang.
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I have a 04 heritage f-150, V6 I bought a month ago. Truck ran fine till tonight. Got in to start it, the engine started to crank and everything went dead except for a busing click some what like a turn signal. When I raised the hood the light weakly flashed in time with the buss. I checked the cables, clean and tight. The click came from the #2 ( I think) relay. I wiggled it and it stopped and the lights came back on but when I turned the lights on it all started again. The book says the #2 relay is for the PCM. Don't tell me the computer is out!
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I have a f 150 2006 4.2 liter (basic truck standard) 60.000 km. Yesterday the engine just started chugging and quit I changed the fuel filter. I turned the engine over and the pump did not work when the filter was off so i pushed the emergency shut off button still nothing one question is i pushed the button in it didn't click or anything is that how it works? I have checked all the fuses and grounds what would cause the fuel pump not to work? Or what should I check next?
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The other night I was going up the mountain and while going it started making a clicking noise..probably from no oil..We had been told from the dealership there was a small leak but nothing to worry about at the moment.We tested it and it wasn't leaking visibly but I guess with it getting cold out the hole got bigger and we didn't notice so all the oil leaked out as we were powering the lil car through the mountains..Needless to say on the cruise down it started shaking i saw some sparks and I think the rod went through my engine block and we broke down. It's completely dead. The car has right around 200,000 miles on it and has always been very well taken care of.I just traded my dad the car about 7 months ago for my 4-runner cause of gas prices..I moved across the country and of course have had NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS since day one.
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Driving home the other day I noticed some vibrations up front. Reminded me of out of balance wheels. Then the check engine light started blinking. Then it was on steady, then blink, then steady... Took it easy the rest of the way home. Code reader said P0138 Oxygen sensor circuit high voltage bank 1 sensor 2, and P0304 Cylinder 4 misfire detected. At home is where I saw the engine shaking and extra noise from it (visions of piston rod slapping around in there). Removed plugs (original? tough to get out!), compression tested all 4 cylinders (130 to 140), new spark plugs (had they been in there for 196K miles?). Start engine and same, shake shake with some extra noises that weren't there before (car just sitting in driveway).
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04 with 200k miles, car started stuttering like out of gas, when stopped there was a grinding noise from engine. Took to dealer on trailer, when it was taken to the mechanic all problems went away. Changed oil looking for metal chips, none. Did computer upgrade which was the only code on the check engine light.
Drove car for two days on short trips, four or five times 20 to 30 miles. Ran great. At around 40 miles on next day same problem. No lights or codes of any type. Carried to dealer again, they said they were not sure if it is the engine, transmission, or something in between. I was told they would have to take it apart to find out and the least amount it would cost is $5,000.
The grinding occurs when the engine is running only. when revved up it is louder, at idle the noise changes while sitting in park, louder quieter etc. when driving on electric, sounds perfect. (no sound at all)
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I have an 04 Accord EXV6 with 237K miles. I have recently replaced shock absorber assemblies and all 6 motor mounts / transmission mounts, which resolved most of the loud "clunking" noises. However, I now have more of a "rattle" sound which I hear when one of three things happens...First, when the engine is started (typically when the engine is cold). Secondly, when shifting between park, reverse, and drive (also, more common when engine is cold). Lastly, when driving over rough roads or potholes at slow speed. The sound is the same in each of the 3 conditions, and appears to be coming from the right side. It doesn't seem to me that any bushings, control arms. etc. would be the cause since the same sound is heard during startup or gear shifting while the car is sitting still.
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