Have noticed recently a "slipping" of sorts of the tranny while shifting or if I release the gas pedal, then lightly accelerate again.
My 2001 Sebring has had these symptoms for years, but have been explained off as being a habit with the Chrysler electronic transmission...
Car has 67k. It did this before when the car was under 50k. took it in , got it documented and they could find nothing. Last 3 days when I punch on the freeway to pass someone, the car goes in to neutral. Manually down shifting does not work. I had to pull to the side of the freeway today for a few minutes before it would engage. Felt like I was in a very dangerous situation.
View 7 Replies2007 Azera 120k miles. Have noticed first thing in the morning when shifting from 4th to 5th gear, I hear a clunk.. Yesterday I heard two clunks when downshifting from 5th to 4th. Tried shifting the car manually today and was able to replicate the problem. After 15 minutes of driving, the problem is gone.Never seems to happen in the afternoon after car has been driven.Transmission fluid is full. Have always changed at the 60k intervals.Fluid is not burnt. Light pink color.
What could possibly be causing this? Is this likely to get worse? How long might I have before the car might become not drivable ? I ask this because I have been considering trading it in for a new car. Now seems to be a good time to buy a 2016 car, since the 2017"s are almost out.
I have a 2008 Accent (base model for the most part, no C/C), and my transmission seems to be slipping a bit. The symptoms are: slow acceleration, a delay in gear shifting, and after the 30MPH mark, it takes forever to get up to anything near 60. I just wanted to know if it's a simple solution such as topping off the transmission fluid, or if it's a bigger issue.
View 5 RepliesWhat's the best way to be faster when you shifting using pedal shift or stick shift on automatic transmission? Release the gas pedal before shifting and then hit the gas pedal again (just like driving manual), or keep flooring the gas pedal while shifting?
View 11 Replies99 Grand Marquis. Transmission won't down shift unless you release the gas pedal. Check engine light not on, no OBD codes. Changed the transmission fluid and filter. Fluid level OK.
View 3 RepliesI have a '96 2.2L Cavalier with an automatic transmission. The car has about 275,XXX miles on it. Recently, I have been having problems with the transmission. Basically, the transmission doesn't shift unless I release the gas pedal and press down on it again. It always happens around the 20-25 m.p.h. mark. If I don't release the gas, my speed doesn't increase much, i.e. it goes up to about 30 m.p.h. and I hear the engine revving hard. Once I do the gas pedal thing though, it accelerates well.
View 1 Replies2005 Escape CD4E gone...157,000 miles. Previous owner said it was slipping when shifting to 3rd. During test drive the vehicle would hardly move. Only code was for the output shaft. There were metal shavings on the sensor magnet as well as the magnetic drain plug. The drivetrain is now out of the vehicle.
Questions:
1. After a bit of research it seems like there are a lot of tweaks that should be done during a rebuild to make this tranny live longer. Is there any point to having a local trans shop try to rebuild it?
2. Given the reputation of this trans I assume it makes no sense to look at used ones, correct?
3. Any other options?
So, I bought an used 2006 Hyundai Azera Limited few days ago. It's clean title and has 86k miles on it now.
After three days from the purchase date, my car starts causing transmission problems, hard shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear only. It's getting worse now...
Now, what should I do? ...
2007 Chevy Impala3.5L 6-cyl Flex Fuel engine w/ 4 speed auto trans52,800 miles
Extreme driving conditions maintenance schedule kept.Transmission standard service done @ 32,800 miles which was 20k ago.
PROBLEM:
1) Twice in past three days, when shifting from reverse to drive the transmission has slipped, revving hard with rpms spiked above 3,000 for about 2 seconds before engaging the forward drive gear.
Normally I come to a complete stop of all reverse motion with foot fully on the brake pedal before shifting. Admittedly, I got sloppy the first time noted and still had very slight reverse motion when I shifted.
2) Several times late today, while driving uphill at approx 35 - 45 mph, when the car downshifted there was an extremely brief moment of transmission slippage with spiked rpms. It was so brief each time that at first I thought I'd imagined it until it happened again. Then it did it once on a level surface in a parking lot when having shifted from reverse to drive without problem and was gently accelerating the transmission again slipped for just the briefest moment when the normal automatic shift point was reached. So far, all incidences while driving have been so extremely brief that it was the merest hint of a hiccup.
3) When bringing the car to a complete stop, such as at a stoplight or when parking, as the transmission automatically shifts for the braking of speed, sometimes there is a minor but noticeable thunk sound seeming to come from underneath the car, I'd judge to be somewhere about under the level of the dashboard or slightly forward of that. Could that be from a worn or broken transmission mount? And, if so, could that be somehow causing the slippage problem?
4) This transmission has always, even since new, allowed more roll after being shifted into park, the engine shut off and my foot taken off the brake than any other car I have ever driven. If I forget to engage the parking brake quite tightly, the car will roll forward quite a few inches before the parking pawl holds it, even on the level. I've been told both by the dealership shop and the independent mechanic shop that there is no problem and that this particular engine/transmission combination tends to do this although my particular car seems to do so somewhat worse than average.
ACTIONS TAKEN SO FAR:
1) Have made an appointment to take the car into the mechanic.
2) Will check the transmission fluid level per instructions in the owner's manual tomorrow when I have daylight to see what the fluid level and color on the stick looks like.
NOTE:
1) I periodically check the transmission fluid level and it has never been low or discolored. The shop checked it for me, along with making sure everything else was road trip worthy, for an emergency 1,000 round trip in late November, just three months ago. No problems then.
2) No evidence on the garage floor of any leakage. Garage floor is dry.
QUESTIONS:
1) I presume the first step is for the mechanic to check the fluid level and examine for any leaks?
2) If the mechanic cannot duplicate the problem in a test drive, then what?
3) If the problem cannot be duplicated and no apparent cause found, I presume that the prudent course of action is to go ahead and have standard transmission maintenance done (i.e. drop the pan, check for debris, drain and replace with fresh fluid) then see if that halts the slippages?
4) Given that this car has already had failures of the power steering pump, water pump, and part of the wiring harness, and has a fuel pump starting to get noisy, despite aggressively maintaining all standard/preventive maintenance, that perhaps it is time to think of replacing this car, especially if there proves to be any truly major transmission problem found?
We have a 2010 Santa Fe AWD LTD with about 140, 000km on it. It recently came back from front suspension work. The suspension is fine now, but we notice harder shifts in the transmission. Also, there seems to be a vibration just before shifting gears and when under load (like going up hill) seems to slip (like on ice) about once every second until the shift is made. Once the shift is made it drive smoothly until put under pressure again. Even stepping down a bit on the accelerator will cause this slipping feeling (or maybe its loss of power). Just had new plugs put in and a tuneup so it's not that. Could something from the suspension work cause these symptoms?
View 29 Replies, My 1997 Buick Lesabre transmission slips at random when I shift into overdrive. I have my mechanics look at the transmission and have them drive the car to recreate the problem and what do you know the car doesn't do it. I made a post about this problem a while back and it wasn't the A/C that was the problem. I do not drive fast in the car and I checked the Transmission dipstick and the fluid is still red and at the full mark. I brought my car to Auto zone to check the codes but all i get is a loose gas cap.
View 14 RepliesMy 87 Acura Legend with 210,00 miles has an automatic transmission slipping problem. Car will not start moving when in the D position (slips), but if i shift manually to 2 , then S3 , it shifts ok except for some shuttering when shifting to D at about 35 mph. It also does not lock into Park when shifting to P position( car will roll when on a hill.) The shift cable and adjustment are ok. The S3 light does not blink and there are no codes stored. The trans fluid was changed 5,000 miles ago and level and condition are both good.( I have only used Honda fluid for the life of the car and change it every other oil change.) I removed the shift solenoids to find all of the screens clean and all solenoids clicked when 12v applied. At this point i realize i probably have an internal problem (possibly bad clutch pack?) My question is why doesn't the parking pin lock? Is this related to the slipping problem?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2011 Azera. The rear doors don't automatically unlock when shifting into park. They function properly otherwise. The child door locks are set in the open position.
View 2 RepliesI own a 2005 f-250 superduty with the 6L diesel. Just recently when I leave to work in the morning I notice the trans shifts slow through the gears and when it does start to shift it will start slipping then kinda vibrate for a few seconds then finally shifts into the next gear. It will do this through all the gears until I get up to speed on the highway. After it warms up it shifts and drives great until I let it sit for around 8hrs or more. I really hope I don't need a new Transmission considering I bought this truck as is from the dealership just a little over a month ago. I have checked the trans fluid it is full, I even drained all the fluid and replace with new and it still does the same thing.
View 4 Replies Hauled my last 2 cord of wood for the season, and I now have a pretty good 3-5 slip in and an intermittent bang/clunk when its shifting. So I've put this off for a long while now, and I want to fix it. I've done my research, and I don't really feel like I'm any further ahead than before I did my research.
I'm looking for recommendation's on what transmission and or kit is the best for my truck. I pull my 5er 10-15 times a year mostly up and down the east coast. We are looking to get a new 5er with a bunk house, my goal is to stay in the same weight neighborhood, I run 13-13,500 now depending on where we are going. The goal is to be able to get maybe another 3-5 years of use from the truck, maybe more, and then upgrade to a newer truck. So let me hear what you all recommend as I'm going crazy and probably over researching what I'm gonna do...as usual.
2008 Hyundai Azera 3.8L V6 .... Purchased in 2009 with 11,000 miles.
In early November 2012, I experienced occasional episodes of a low brake pedal, which did not affect the stopping power of the vehicle. Most of the time, the car stops and behaves normally. However, once in a while, the brake pedal drops/travels farther than usual. (This is accompanied by a heart pumping, "I'm about to blow through this stop sign", moment.) I had a full brake inspection performed at my usual automotive repair shop. Nothing was found to be wrong with the system. Linings were 30% front, 90% rear (rears were done at one year prior, at 48,000 miles). Odometer at the time was 64,850.
I returned to the shop one week later with the same symptoms. Again the system was inspected, and nothing was found to be wrong. Decided to replace the master cylinder as the most logical explanation of the symptoms. Drove car successfully, without symptoms, for approximately 1,600 miles.
Recently, at 66,600 miles, the same problem has returned. Returned to the shop for additional brake inspection. No faults were found in the entire braking system. No stored ABS codes. No visible fluid leaks. Fluid is clean and full. Shop contacted local Hyundai service representative, who claims that this behavior is normal for this particular vehicle. Claims that as the ABS hydraulic pump cycles, the vehicle will feel like is has no brakes (but will stop properly.)
Friday night my car is fine. Sunday, after some wintry weather, I start the car and it shakes and stalls out. I start it again and notice the check engine light and the ESC light is on and the car doesn't respond to the gas pedal. No response to hitting the ESC light. Runs rough like it was 25 years old. I limp around the block and decide not to drive it. I hope it's a really simple inexpensive computer chip replacement....
View 4 RepliesMy car was parked for 5 days. When I next started it there was no response when I depressed the gas pedal--car remained in a rough idle. Had to restart the car three times before it worked but check engine light has not gone off.
View 3 RepliesI purchased my 2012 EB used with 35k miles on it. at about 42k I had the condensation issue happen when passing several RV's in a mountain pass. I took the truck to the dealer I purchased it from and they did the TSB13-8-1 Fix to it. I noticed right away that I had lost some power (I was very saddened).
I also have Noticed that I lost about 2.5-3 MPG. Since the work was done I still have a shudder that feels a lot like the transmission is slipping when I mash the go peddle. this does not happen every time but I would say it does happen better then 50% of the time at highway speeds trying to pass slower rigs or getting up to speed to enter the highway.
My question is has ford updated the TSB's for the 2012 EB F150's lately? I love this Truck, it is the only vehicle (besides my motorcycle) I have owned to date that I was not tired of after about 6 month's. I hope when I take the truck back to the shop next week that there is a fix that works that I get my MPG's and power back and that lets me drive it the way it should be driven.
I am trying to change my 2006 azera's transmisson fluid.
I tried to find the location of transmission fluid drain plug bolt, but i can't find either in the service manual nor owner's manual.
Looking for a photo to show the transmission fluid drain plug bolt?