Azera TG (2006-11) :: Shake And Stall / Car Doesn't Respond To The Gas Pedal
Oct 31, 2011
Friday night my car is fine. Sunday, after some wintry weather, I start the car and it shakes and stalls out. I start it again and notice the check engine light and the ESC light is on and the car doesn't respond to the gas pedal. No response to hitting the ESC light. Runs rough like it was 25 years old. I limp around the block and decide not to drive it. I hope it's a really simple inexpensive computer chip replacement....
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2008 Hyundai Azera 3.8L V6 .... Purchased in 2009 with 11,000 miles.
In early November 2012, I experienced occasional episodes of a low brake pedal, which did not affect the stopping power of the vehicle. Most of the time, the car stops and behaves normally. However, once in a while, the brake pedal drops/travels farther than usual. (This is accompanied by a heart pumping, "I'm about to blow through this stop sign", moment.) I had a full brake inspection performed at my usual automotive repair shop. Nothing was found to be wrong with the system. Linings were 30% front, 90% rear (rears were done at one year prior, at 48,000 miles). Odometer at the time was 64,850.
I returned to the shop one week later with the same symptoms. Again the system was inspected, and nothing was found to be wrong. Decided to replace the master cylinder as the most logical explanation of the symptoms. Drove car successfully, without symptoms, for approximately 1,600 miles.
Recently, at 66,600 miles, the same problem has returned. Returned to the shop for additional brake inspection. No faults were found in the entire braking system. No stored ABS codes. No visible fluid leaks. Fluid is clean and full. Shop contacted local Hyundai service representative, who claims that this behavior is normal for this particular vehicle. Claims that as the ABS hydraulic pump cycles, the vehicle will feel like is has no brakes (but will stop properly.)
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My truck will start and idle but when I engage it into a gear, whether it is drive or reverse, it will start to bog down and not respond to throttle. Sometimes the truck will stall other times it will just bog down then the rpms shoot up and the truck will run normal after. If the truck does die it will fire right up and have no issues and run great. Now whenever I stop and shutoff the truck the next time I start it up it will go through the exact same process. It doesn't matter how long the truck has been shut off. Could be a minute could be a day. Truck has 177k miles, in the last year it has given a code for camshaft sensor going bad and has been replaced twice. Have also had the catalytic converter and the O2 sensors replaced within the last 6 months. Not sure if this matters but was told my truck is California Emissions by the garage that replaced the cat.
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My car was parked for 5 days. When I next started it there was no response when I depressed the gas pedal--car remained in a rough idle. Had to restart the car three times before it worked but check engine light has not gone off.
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Have noticed recently a "slipping" of sorts of the tranny while shifting or if I release the gas pedal, then lightly accelerate again.
My 2001 Sebring has had these symptoms for years, but have been explained off as being a habit with the Chrysler electronic transmission...
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So, just overnight, suddenly the car doesn't respond to my key fob. When I press the button on the fob the little red light lights up, so the battery works. I open the car by using the old school physical key and get in. The car refuses to start up until I try to put the fob in its slot, and then it starts like normal. What could this be? I tried checking other threads, but they were all about the fob being out of battery or broken, which doesn't seem to be the case here, as I tried both my two fobs and neither work.
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My 2005 RX 8 has been a great car. However, in the past 1.5 years, when I accelerate it doesn't "jump on it' like it used to. It will eventually get up to the speed I desire, but she has lost her quickness.
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After starting the car, MFD doesn't repond to touches anywhere, the side buttons work but the touch screen doesn't respond to touches. Is this normal?
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All of the sudden the remote to my 2009 Subaru Outback stopped working. The car doesn't respond at all. I mentioned this when I had the car in for service and they tested my remote. They detected a signal that it was sending out so that means something is wrong on the car side and the remote appears to be functioning fine. Unfortunately I only have 1 remote (bought the car used). I didn't have them look any further into it because they admitted that they don't know what the problem could be and it would take time to investigate.
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I have a 2010 Ford Escape Limited. This has only happened twice, but when the fuel level is low (fuel level light on and indicating 50 miles or less til empty), the gas pedal does not respond as well. One time I pressed the pedal, the car shudders and tries to go, another time my wife was at a stop light, then tried to press the gas pedal and the car didn't go anywhere. She had to turn off the car, turn it back on, then it worked. Doesn't seem to happen when the car is full of fuel, but like I said, it's only happened twice.
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I have a 2003 elantra with 90 k when I'm. Driving the car it just stalls out the car never turns off it just idles and won't respond to gas pedal. I have to put the car in neutral accelerate and drop back to drive to keep driving it. Happens at all times car at normal heat , at regular driving speeds in the street any.
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Have an 07 gs350 awd and lately the pedal feels stiff and doesn't depress all the way down at startup. Sometimes the steering wheel will go back up as if I have just stopped the car and occasionally I will get the message on the dashboard that I need to press the brake pedal at startup even though I am doing that. Dealership claims they can't duplicate problem and don't know what it could be.
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Had 3 separate episodes dead pedal on my 04 bone stock 6.0. About a week ago I pulled out on the road and the truck went to idle and would not respond no matter how much throttle I gave. After about 10 seconds it woke up and took off. Had this happen 2 more times this afternoon.
No codes or dash lights.... What this might be? I have a 500 mile road trip this weekend and am worried about being stranded on the side of the road.
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My car is fairly new with 21700 miles approximately. It started to give me a little shake at the brake pedal. I drove to Victorville,CA last night and the shake was strong enough for my passenger to feel! Toyota said its a bad rotor and I have to take care of that because warranty will NOT cover that!
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2003 Hyundai Accent. I will try to give a good description of the issue. Wheel was shaking (or was noticeable) at about 60 mph. Lessened after that but still bad. I had my tires changed and balanced as well as an alignment. My rear right toe is still off a bit. Now, the shaking is noticeable at 68-70 mph and higher. Pedal shakes, wheel shakes. I can feel some vibration all over including the seat, gas pedal and wheel the most. Wheel not jerking, just vibrating mildly.
It is not quite as bad as before and does not happen until 68-70, 10 mph higher than before the tire change/balance. I have put my back wheels on the front and it is the exact same condition - this would remove tire and balance as the culprit (?). I also hear an audible hum.. kind of a pulsing sound at 50 mph+. This speeds up and slows down with my speed. For instance if I am going 70.. I hear it every half second, 50 mph I hear it less often. It is pretty faint, not a thump. It seems to be coming from the front but I can't pin-point it. I feel no tire play up/down/side/side.
What is the next step here? I'm going to get the rear toe fixed but this shouldn't be the cause of the pulse/wheel + pedal vibration. Vibration/sound doesn't happen when I am braking. No rubbing shield behind rotor.
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3300 miles in, and my brake pedal is extremely hard/stiff when I attempt to start the car. I don't have issues getting it to turn on, but it literally moves maybe 1/4 inch at most. It just randomly started doing this.
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My info screen will display all info but the clock will reset over and over and the. Buttons will not respond?
Here is a video of what it's doing : [URL] ....
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I've got a 1982 automatic chevy 454 engine with only 46,000 miles on it (in my Winnebago RV). It runs just fine except each time I step on the gas pedal from a stopped position for an instant it sounds like the engine is about to die and then it starts going. Is this a major engine problem or something that requires minor adjustments? I want to sell the RV. If it's going to cost a lot to fix, I'd rather lower the price of the rig.
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I have a 2005 f252 6.0 diesel with electronic climate control and when my a/c comes on it surges/stalls my truck and throws several codes (P0108, 0403, 0405, 2104, 2123, 2138, 2139, 2140) and disables my gas pedal. I know I am loosing my 5v reference, but not sure where. I have replaced my compressor, alternator, both batteries, low pressure switch, accumulator, oriface tube.
I've disconnected several 5 v reference sensors and all gives me the same results. if I disconnect my low pressure switch my defrost and heater works fine and no issues, but this is not engaging my compressor. when I plug the low pressure switch back in , the same issues happen, I checked my fuses, and swapped the relay in the battery box. Looking for drawings of the circuitry or wiring diagrams.
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I just got my 2014 Avalon XLE Premium and the brakes seem a little strange to me. When I first press down on the brake pedal the pedal goes down and the brakes seem a bit light, when I let up on the pedal and then push right back down the pedal doesn't go down as far and the brakes are firmer.
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My 06 azera will not crank or start some times. I put the Key in and nothing happens. The lights and radio all the bells and whistles work but the car wont start or crank. I turn the key and nothing, just silence. I take the key out and wait for 2 to 5 minutes at most then the car starts. I have taken it to the dealer and because the problem will not replicate itself for them, they can not fix it.
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