Rough start like some thing missing, check engine light came on, shut off car checked my oil, ok, restart runs smooth but check engine light stays on, went to dealer 8 mile drive, car ran fine ????
View 12 RepliesYesterday my car had a rough start (lasted all of 5 seconds) and it threw the check engine light on. Now other symptoms. It was a rough start, almost like a misfire then it idle fined, and drove my 60 mi commute home without issue. I had fine acceleration, gas mileage idle etc.
I got home and turned it off for 10 min and it then started normally and ran fine again. I'm thinking it was just a random miss that threw on the light, but I'll take it to Advance to get the code later today.
I replaced the plugs about a year ago with cheap-o plugs so it may be time for a replacement again. I thought maybe an o2 sensor but there wasn't a drop in mpg, at least anything noticeable.
And its been a few days since I've gotten gas so I'm doubting just a gas cap issue... The CEL did NOT flash, only solid the whole time.
My check engine light came on again tonight. I recently had it checked and it was a bad O2 sensor and was replaced under warranty. I took it to Autozone tonight, as the dealer was closed, and it came back a troublecode of P0110. They did not have that specific code for the Hyundai, but for the other cars (Toyota, Mazda, Kia, Lexus) it is saying IAT sensor or Intake Air Temperature circuit. It is saying possible open or short circuit, faulty iat sensor, or faulty ecm.
View 2 RepliesI have been experiencing some issues with my '06 rio5 (same engine as your hyundais). this forum is way more active than the kia forums, so figured id give it a shot here.
I am experiencing a rough idle at start up while the car is low on fuel (<1/4 tank). it idles rough for a few seconds, the check engine light flashes a bit, and then it runs fine.
The car is an '06 rio5 with approx 19k miles on it, five speed manual. Also, sometimes after refueling and it will just shut off while waiting at an intersection. Not sure whether these two issues are related, but thought i would mention it just in case they were.
When I turned on my 2005 Passat V6 this morning, it idled very rough and the check engine light came on. Kind of sounded like a misfire. After about a minute or so, the engine ran as it always has....normal. Smooth as ever. Well I had it scanned at AZ and they said it was in fact a misfire from two of the cylinders. So then I called my local VW service department and the guy there gave me a no nonsense over the phone diagnosis, he told me that he owns a V6 Passat and he encountered the same issue on several occasions when the outside temperature drops precipitously over night. He stated that the misfire is due to condensation in the ignition/coil area. He stated that it is in fact a very common problem and that I would be fine and that the light would go away on it's own. The car is running fine. Should I really worry?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2006 azera limited with about 63k miles on it and I noticed in the owners manual that at 60k I should have the valve clearance checked and adjusted if theres vibration or rough idle. I currently have a rough idle and more vibration from the engine.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 azera limited 63k miles on it and I'm getting a rough idle that sounds worse when the weather is cold. also when I press the gas there is hesitation from the car to accelerate. on top of that, I feel vibrations from the engine all through the driver and passenger seat. When I turn the car on it idles at 1300-1500 rpm and takes about 5-7 minutes to come down. when it does , it idles at 650 rpm. I'm not getting any check engine lights or codes. I've replaced spark plugs, air filter, had the air induction service done at the dealership, and had to have Hyundai put on a new throttle body last march when it gave out on me while at work. the dealership doesn't know what it is and said to use a fuel additive when I fill up the tank. I have and am waiting to see if that does anything. I put in a bottle of CRC 1 Tank fuel system cleaner 2 days ago. I've even changed my brand of gas from exxon to bp just in case. I think it may be a bad hose for the idle and a bad motor mount for the vibration. Could an O2 sensor be going bad?
View 1 RepliesI started my Accent this a.m. The Check Engine Light is on and it runs really rough. I left it here at my apartment - it's that bad. It's got 27k miles.
The only other thing to note is that it's been very cold (for Northern California anyway) - around 45 degrees F right now.
First-time poster, haven't had any problems with the accent except for a sun visor that was replaced under warranty last week. All scheduled services done at the Hyundai dealer.
The check engine light came on after cleaning the engine and the engine runs rough. Where to look. 2007 Hyundai Accord.
View 5 RepliesI just bought this car from the original owner. She didn't take that great of care of the car. First oil change was done at 8,000 miles for example. Basically if it was broken she would fix it, but didn't do much preventative maintenance.
I just replaced all 4 spark plugs and coils since one was misfiring and didn't want to have to go back in and replace one in another few months. Replaced the AC belt a few days ago since it was cracked and worn. All other belts are fine. I drove the car around for a few hours the next day and it ran great.
Today, the check engine light flashes and then stays on. The car is idling rough at stop lights and acceleration is poor. Previously, the light came on and it was the EVAP system. Not sure which component and I was told it isn't supposed to affect the way the car drives.
I have a 2005 jeep liberty 3.7L with 60,000 miles on it. The engine light when on 2 weeks ago and gave a p300 code. the dealership replaced coil and plugs, I believe. Then would start rough when cold, the engine light would blink for about 10 seconds then remain on. the car runs just fine except when cold....first minute of starting it. they checked for head gasket problem, and cant seem to find the problem. They told me that this could just be something that happens. I don't believe that. I have no loss of power, no hesitation. Runs fine 99% of the time
View 19 RepliesI constantly hear 'tick, tick, tick' sound from the engine at start. Once the engine gets heat up, the sound disappears. I live in canada so it is still kinda cold in the morning. I didn't have this problem in the summer. the problem started in december when it gets really cold in canada. so i thought it might be an engine oil problem. I called the dealer to ask what kind of engine oil they use for my azera, ans they said they just use a regular engine oil with viscosity of 10w-20. However when I check the manual, viscosity of 5w-30 is recommended. I know engine oil with viscosity of 5w-30 is thinner than the one with 10-20w and therefore easy for the engine to get heat up and better protection at start in the winter. What viscosity engine oil do you use for you azera? Will using synthetic engine oil useful??
View 17 RepliesToday, after making a few stops at local stores, I tried starting my car and it wouldn't start. It sounded like the engine did turn over once, but would stall out immediately. I ended up calling a tow truck, but when he showed up an hour later, the engine started first try. Except now the engine light was on.
I should note that a friend was watching my car for last week while I was out of town and she said she had no issues with the car. At first I thought maybe she forgot to put the gas cap on, but that's not it.
My 2006 Azara has had a no start problem since about a year after we bough it new. The condition is intermittent and is not dependent on outside temperature, humidity or other conditions, It happens when the engine is cold or hot. Sometimes the problem goes away for a week or so then it comes back. It happens with either key.
The engine cranks over but does not start. Usually resolve it by sitting for 10 - 15 seconds then trying again. Sometimes have to do this two or three times before it fires. All other electrical items work ok and the battery has no problem powering accessories. I've had it into the dealer however because it is difficult to replicate, they have a hard time repairing the problem. The first time they neutralized the immobilizer and re-programmed it. The second time, I got a check engine light and they replaced the immobilizer. But the problem continues.
I go in this week to recheck my nagging check engine light. Flashes after a warm start, then stays on. Been there once already for it, it has come on too after a cold start... Last time they said it was a very vague miss fire code.... It did shake a bit... On the plus I get to drive a nice new Elantra again.... On the down, I never want my car back after driving it ...
View 2 RepliesCar dumbie back again with another question.The diagnostic for my check engine light indicates numerous cold start misfire codes. The cylinders are OK. That was checked during the diagnostic.The fuel intake is carboned up. It is recommended that I clean the intake manifold. Does this mean cleaning the fuel injectors, the throttle body or both? 2006 Passat VW....
View 1 RepliesI was driving home and all of a sudden my rpms are at 3.5 4k rpm wont shift to next gear. I put in in tiptronic mode and shift it to 8 it works fine. Then about 10 minutes later check vsc shows on dash traction control light is on check engine light is on and the light next to the check engine i think it is the abs light. I havent pulled the code yet.
View 1 RepliesI have owned my 2011 Azera Limited for 12k miles. It has been a great car except for the rough ride and road noise. I have rotated my Michelin MXV4 Energy Plus Greens ( P235/55R17) every 6k miles. I was told, by the dealer, that the ride is because of a "European Suspension Style design", which calls for a stiffer ride but more control. I asked Michelin about this and they said the tires are made up of a new type compound which might make them ride a little harder. They suggested it was in the design of the car also.
After getting the run around from everyone, I went to and old retired Michelin Dealer/Owner, who I've known for years, and he said, forget these tires, they will cup easily and always run rough. Look for a brand with a higher speed rating, you'll get a better ride but expect less mileage out of them since they probably will be a performance tire. Tire sidewall stengths have changed so don't think a higher rating will make a stiffer sidewall. This is not true today at all.
My mechanic tells me I need the intake manifold gasket replaced (check engine light on, engine surging, running very rough). How much damage can I do to the car by doing this repair myself and screwing it up? I've done lots of repairs on my car before -- brake pads, rotors, replace oil pan. I also have a copy of the manufacturer's shop manual.
View 2 RepliesMy car was parked for 5 days. When I next started it there was no response when I depressed the gas pedal--car remained in a rough idle. Had to restart the car three times before it worked but check engine light has not gone off.
View 3 RepliesA few days ago my "Check VSC" warning came on along with the check engine and traction lights being on. I left my car in a parking garage for a week when I was on vacation and the lights came on once I started the car after getting back from my trip.
I have had the "Check VSC" warning before and I fixed it by replacing my gas cap. My gas cap seems fine this time around so I got my codes scanned and the only one that came up was P0300. Having this issue with the 2007 Lexus GS 350? I still feel like it's my gas cap because I bought a cheap replacement last time around.