My rear brakes are grinding so I am preparing to replace all pads and rotors. Any special tools or procedures from when they did theirs? Do the rotors have retention screws? Do you have to use a special tool to push in the pistons?
View 10 RepliesMy read brakes have been grinding. I bought new pads to replace them. After pulling the drums I noticed that they were hardly worn. 50,000 miles on the car. They was a bunch of brakes dust in them. Cleaned the dust out and put the drums back on. It was quiet for about 3 weeks, now the grinding is back.
View 3 RepliesI heard a grinding noise from one of my rear wheels. After investigating, I saw that the OUTER pad was worn down all the way. I had only driven 15K and it had not been very long so I did not expect this. I also didn't hear the warning tabs as the they are on the inner pad and it had not worn down enough. I checked the caliper slide bolts and they were gliding freely. I checked under the boots and there was still grease in there.
My old pads had only been worn to 30%-50% so I installed those on for now. When I compressed the piston, I had a hard time getting it started and had to apply a bit of force with the C-clamp, but then it compressed without the need for much force. When I put the pads in, it was pretty hard to get them into the clips. the inner one required me to press pretty hard with my hand, the outer one was so tight, I had to use the c clamp to get it all the way up to the rotor.
I'm wondering what the cause may be. Are there some typical causes for why the outer pad may wear faster? I would think if the caliper bolts were stuck, that would do it, but they move freely? could it just be that the pad is too tight on the slider? How might I fix that? I tried filing them down a little but that obviously wasn't enough.
Also, now the pads on the right and left are uneven and the rotor on the right isnt smooth anymore. Should I go ahead and change out the pads and that rotor? Does uneven pads or a rough rotor affect the effectiveness of the brakes significantly? They are the rear brakes so I would think there is less of an impact. I know that uneven pads and a rough rotor will cause them to wear faster, but if I need to replace them anyways, I might as well wait til they wear down more.
I have a 2006 Azera 3.3L. 72000 KMS. I have a heavy grinding noise from front end. Can't tell if left right or both sides. Changes pitch (heavier) as I speed up. Not related to eng RPM, only road speed. Is the heaviest starting at 60km/h to 80km/h then seems to level off. Begins (noticeably) around 15-20 km/h. I believe its bearing noise but have been told can be transmission or brakes. Had it on a lift with wheels off and in drive. There was no noise at slow speed. Appears to be getting worse as the days go by.
View 1 RepliesI have the same problem that many azera and sonata owners have where my headlights dim when i slow down or apply brakes etc on my 06 azera. I have found the alternator to battery positive issue and fixed that with another piece of 4awg wire added (now has 0 volt drop). That didn't fix the issue.
Then i seen a suggestion of checking/sanding all grounds. Did that to battery to chassis, chassis to trans, engine to chassis, pcm/misc grounds (bunch of 5), and 2 more by windshield washer reservoir. This didn't fix the problem either
I've had my alternator checked and my battery as well. My only questionable idea as of now is my battery. Its the right size and checks out fine but only rated at like 450cca, etc vs 700+ and I assume more reserve at advance auto parts? Not sure if the battery is oem or not it is some bs "powervolt" brand.
I've been living with a rattle in the rear shelf since ~6k miles. When I took the car in for an early 15k service, I told them about it. It rattles whether the radio is on or not, so it's not speaker vibration. The tech heard the rattle, but did NOTHING to try to fix it. I was told by the service writer that since I was past 12k miles, it may or may not be a warrantied repair! He said that if the part is broken, it would be covered, but if it simply needed an adjustment it would NOT be covered. How do you adjust a rear package shelf???
I called Hyundai and was told the same thing. The girl at Hyundai said they go by what the dealership says. It was almost like she was saying "wink, wink - have the tech say the piece was broken and we'll pay for it." I'm supposed to authorize them to tear the car apart not knowing what reason they'll give for the rattle. It's an intermittent rattle, so I've been tolerating it.
I have a 2006 Azera and recently had the small part of the door handle fall off (part #83652E). I got a new part but wanted to know how easy it is to install this or whether I should have the dealer do it. Do I need a special tool to remove the door panel/clips or can I do it with something else. Once inside, is it just as simple as screwing the new part on through a hole in the door?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2011 Azera. The rear doors don't automatically unlock when shifting into park. They function properly otherwise. The child door locks are set in the open position.
View 2 RepliesWe have a 2008 Azera Ltd. with 108,000 miles. Until recently rear sunshade worked perfectly as we used in in auto mode retracting in reverse and going up in forward. No noise during any phase of operation. Not sure when but recently sunshade quit functioning. have tried console button without success but also hear no noise indicating a broken gear as others have reported. Have checked fuse on drivers side fuse panel and it is not blown. From this I can only assume problem is either motor has completely failed or switch is bad. I have laid in the trunk to see if i can access system but covers are all riveted so i thought I'd pull the switch and test it but not sure how to remove it without damaging console
View 6 RepliesMy car came back from the shop yesterday with new brakes and pads and seems to be making some odd noises, both at low speeds and while breaking. I called the shop this morning and they said that this sound was normal for awhile but to come back in a week if it persists. Is this sound advice, or should I be driving my car right back to the shop?
2005 Hyundai Tucson 122,000 miles
I've got an 03 Camry (211K mi.) with front and rear disk brakes. I have a pulsing/grinding sound from the rear brakes. I think the pulse is from the run-out of the disk/rotor. Took it to a Toyota dealership last year and they pulled apart, cleaned and lubricated the parking brake assemblies on both sides. Brakes ran quiet for about 3 months and then the noise came back. When the climate is dry, it makes all kinds of noise. When it's humid (above 80%) or raining it's quiet. It still stops good and there is no pulling to one side or another, so I figure my calipers aren't leaking.
I bought the car used a little over 3 years ago and don't know when the last brake job was done. I was going to replace the front and rear disks and pads and inspect the calipers for cracked cups or seals. I was talking to an old school mechanic and he said something about opening the bleeder line(s) when I compressed the cups or I'd damage the ABS control. I looked at my manual and it said nothing about this. I'm not looking to replace the ABS controller because of a silly mistake on my part. Looking for info about cracking the bleeder when compressing a caliper??
I have a 2008 with 21,000 miles on it, the arm rest has a completely worn down as if it has a 100,000 miles on it. Also I took car back to dealership because the rear speaker vibrates at the sound of music. I like this car but it doesnt seem to be built as well as the Sonata I had before it. more trips to the dealer.
View 6 RepliesI have 23, 400 miles on my Kia Sportage 2009 and just found out I need to replace both of my rear brakes.They were making grinding noise. Is this a defect? Seems like low mileage to have to replace them?Also my front brakes are down to 50%. Is this a known KIA issue?
View 4 RepliesIn February 2014 I purchased a 2011 Honda CRV. I often travel and am gone for about a week. Every time I come back the rear brake are rusted. They have a loud thumping and grinding sound. I immediately took the car back to Honda dealership (2 time) both times they 'shaved' the roaters. I then contacted Honda headquarters to report the issue. They told me to deal with the dealership and take it to a local mechanic for other opinions. Car Talk will be my second opinion. Honda dealership told me that this is just the way it is. This is my third Honda, I have NOT had this problem before.
View 8 RepliesWhat size sockets do I need in order to complete a brake pad replacement for my rear brakes?
Also, what are the torque specs for each bolt I will be refastening?
And just in case a bolt breaks... what size bolts are used on the calipers?
I have a 2007 Prius with 130,000 miles on it. I plan to trade in about a year, maybe a little less. I have noticed my brakes grabbing. My mechanic says that the front brakes are sort of grinding and the rear brakes are grabbing. Both are worn, the rear brakes to about 30%, front brakes to 60%. They also say they will probably last out the year. Should I put new brakes on to be safe and to be able to sell the car with new brakes, or should I just wait it out and trade it in with worn brakes?
View 6 RepliesBefore I get started... My truck is a 2006 F-250 Super Duty XLT 6-speed 4x4 with a Limited Slip.
I just got finished with a big job on my truck. New pads all the way around, turned rotors, new emergency brake shoes, hardware, and backing plate as well as replaced the rear wheel bearings both inner and outer as well as the axle o-ring and inner seal. Also, took off the rear pumpkin cover painted it and put fresh fluid in, went with Mobil 1 75W140 LS.
Took it for a drive and the brakes work great. Followed the directions for breaking in the emergency brake which worked fine.
Now the problem is I'm getting rattling from possibly all of the wheels. Definitely from the front driver and at least one of the rear wheels. It was so dark I didn't get a chance to look at it I just pulled it back in driveway.
I'll start looking at things tomorrow but, any common mistakes or things I should check first?
I have a grinding noise coming from what I believe are the front brakes. It happens when I apply the brakes and sounds like the brake pad is worn out and there's metal-on-metal contact but when I checked the pads, they are at 80-90% (rears have about the same amount left). I hear it the loudest just before coming to a full stop, from about 20 mph down to stop. I thought it was caused by rust on the brakes but after I wore off the rust, the sound is still there.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2007 Sonata V6 I bought used two years ago. When I bought it mechanic serviced the rear brakes as the caliper was sticking. Now the rear brakes make a grinding noise when I brake and when I drive the rear brakes make a sound like slight metal on metal contact. I know Sonatas are known for brake problems. Should I replace the rear pads, rotors, calipers (including pins) and if so what brands are decent to buy? I have used rock auto in the past.
My car has about 198,000km on it (123,000 miles).
I have a leak in one rear shock and the pads need replacing. Local NTW says they are certified mechanics and work on GX's. Dealer is so darn expensive I'm trying to find an alternative. I'm looking to see if others feel good with going outside the dealer when they can not do it themselves. 2004 GX470 ...
View 1 RepliesMy car is a 1999 Honda Civic.
This morning I went in for a state inspection, oil change and rear brake replacement. Driving home while going downhill on the highway, I hit the brakes - and they failed completely. At first it felt like the car actually bucked forward. I tried flooring the brake, but felt no resistance and the car didn't stop. I kept my foot off the gas and coasted to a stop.
The tow truck driver told me he could feel a problem just getting the car onto the tow truck, and again when he took it off.
The Honda place checked it and did a test drive, found nothing.They said it couldn't be air in the brakes be took me for a short test drive and assured me I'd be fine. The
I headed home again and the brakes failed again at almost the same spot. This time it wasn't a complete failure. After no resistance at first, the brakes "caught" though somewhat mushily. I put on my flashers and kept going, at about 45 mph. Got off the highway and had to crawl because braking wasn't taking effect immediately. But as I drove on at 10 mph, they began working again. Not as well as they should, but enough to get me home.
It seems the brakes fail after 15 - 20 minutes of driving at 65 mph. They work better after a rest and at slower speeds.
If it makes a difference, my compressor is gone, so the car doesn't have a/c, and it is hot out so I'm wondering if the heat is affecting something. However, I haven't had these brake problems until today.