I've driven 06 Azera 3.8 80,000 miles now.
When idling or stopping at red light, the rpm slightly and continuously goes up and down. (+/- 50 rpm)
Which part is a problem and how to fix it?
My Subaru Outback is dying on me when I come to a stop and has happened when just idling. I have been told it is the torque converter and replacement is 2 thousand.
View 7 RepliesMy 06 azera will not crank or start some times. I put the Key in and nothing happens. The lights and radio all the bells and whistles work but the car wont start or crank. I turn the key and nothing, just silence. I take the key out and wait for 2 to 5 minutes at most then the car starts. I have taken it to the dealer and because the problem will not replicate itself for them, they can not fix it.
View 4 RepliesThe alarm on my 07 Elantra is going off and I tried disconnecting the battery to no avail. What can I do to stop it from going off an keeping me from driving the car?
View 3 RepliesMy Oil Filler Cap won't come off...it just makes clicking noises when I turn it....I've been told Ill have to break it off somehow.....I can't do an oil change until I solve this problem..it is a 2006 Azera....
View 1 RepliesMy 2007 Azera alarm keeps going off for no reason at all. How do I fix or unplug the alarm system?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 Azera. H&R lowering springs. I just replaced the front struts but they are not stiff enough to stop some of the bounce. Any stiffer aftermarket strut that I could use to stiffen the front end?
View 2 RepliesSeveral months back the maintenance guys at the local dealreship somehow managed to screw the AC compressor which was covered by the warranty and replaced with new one (or so they say). Ever since then the engine noise becomes louder and more audible when I switch the AC.
A simple experiment to compare - let your car slowly crawl (1st gear or D) with your foot off the accelerator and try to make a difference with the AC on and off. When I do this I can clearly hear louder noise from the engine compartment as if the motor is significantly loaded.
I purchased my Azera 5 years ago and it now has 44,xxx miles in it. The car runs well and everything works on it but I am now on my second set of tires!
The car came with Michelin tires and at about 25k they were extremely noisy. Investigation revealed the tires were scalloped and not wearing properly. At that point I had an alignment done. At 35k I had the alignment checked and found that it was 'out' and had the alignment done again.
At 43k I replaced the tires with Continentil Tires and the tires were balanced and the alignment was done. This alignment was 'guaranteed' for 6 months and I returned prior to the 6 month expiration for an alignment check and found it was 'out' and the shop corected the alignment. This correction was needed after only 1,000 mi!!
So here I am - 6 yrs of use with 44k accumulated and 4 alignments
The tire shop is well regarded in the area so I think their work is competent and we have reasonably good streets and we have not hit any curbs so where does the problem lie?
The Sonata (v-6) that I had before was only aligned once when new tires were installed and the Mercedes cars I owned before that I don't think were ever aligned.
I noticed some time ago that engine is making a sound like smth. is spinning very fast (gyrscope? mass wheel?) That happens when it is idle or drives slow, when I accelerate the sound disappear. The sound is hearable inside and outside of the car.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2008 Azera Limited with a rear sunshade. It works fine except that the switch (located on the console between the two front seats) jams. The switch has been replaced once by Hyundai, who said the old one was full of grit (it's possible - I own a dog who rides in the front sometimes). Since then I have been careful to avoid the grit problem. However, the switch is jammed again and I want to take it out and clean it or otherwise free it up, but I cannot get the console cover off. I can free up the front of it, but then it will not come off, being held in place further back by something I cannot find.
View 3 RepliesI just bought a used (25K miles) 2008 Azera. On Friday I started the car to leave work, and the ABS and ESC OFF lights came on. Not sure what to do I started to pull from my parking spot, and the front wheel ABS seemed to be engaging as i drove slowly (had the sound and feel of ABS as if I was making a fast hard stop). I pulled into another space and shut off the car. When I restarted it minutes later, the lights were off and no sound/pulsing feel. Is this a known issue?
View 2 RepliesWas driving my Azera back from lunch and got to work and we have some speed bumps in the work lot - it's a big one (not blaming them), but when accelerating, i noticed a lag and then a thrust from the engine, then the same on the second one. Then after a corner the engine cut out completely, I'm able to start the car, but it won't hold idle and just dies within 3 seconds.
2 hours later started the car, and it does idle, but just surges on the RPM's, and if you give it gas on delay it will increase the RPM's? I'm not driving home like this, it's getting a tow. The RPM's are all over the place at idle (just not high) and the
118,500km 2006 Azera. If the plugs, or wires have ever been done, feels a lot like Coil packs, maybe EGR. Never overheating. At first I thought maybe fuel pump, but it's getting fuel now, but rattling rough.
I am in the process of fixing the front end clunk on my 2009 Azera. Clunk is coming mostly from the front right. So far I have replaced the Strut, Strut mount and top control arm. Still same problem.
View 4 RepliesMaybe around 35000 miles, experienced a creaking noise when you brake? The car typically does it after warming up, but every time I come to a complete stop, the rear of the car produces a creaking noise right before the braking completes. I brought it to Hyundai, they couldn't replicate it. So I took them for a drive myself, and was able to replicate it, however the technician had never heard or experienced this before. So far it's intermittent, but whenever it's more constant I'll bring it in again.
View 6 RepliesA few weeks ago my check engine light came on.......P0021 code. Three days later the light went out.
A few days ago MIL came on again.......P0021 code. Today MIL went out.
Does this warn me of potential CVVT issue or oil control valve problems? Having this "on-off....on-off condition?
My wife had complained the seat would not go forward. Today I was looking for something under the seat. It went all the way back but will not go forward. Also up and down does not work.. Am I screwed or might this be a fuse? Strange, I would have thought the Driver seat would have failed first.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 Azera Limited with 180k miles. I just replaced the rack & pinion, inner tie rods, outer tie rods, front axles, and the valve cover gasket over the weekend. I had the alignment done this morning.
Although there are no more leaks (p/s fluid from rack and pinion and motor oil from valve cover gasket), I did notice a couple of things. First, the "ESC off" light off comes on when I start driving. The light is turned off when I start the car. Second, the steering feels a bit firm. It was softer before the parts were replaced. Shouldn't it be the other way around (firm before replacing the parts and soft after replacing them)?
I own a 2006 Azera Limited. I've been experiencing intermittent problems starting it. It cranks fine but will not start? The battery is new.
View 1 RepliesMy 2006 Azera Limited keeps blowing its backup fuse (10amp) whenever I so much as move an inch in reverse. Moving from P to D (or even past the manual gate) is OK, as long as I don't take my foot off the brake when passing R.
I've so far burned through 4 fuses and still don't know what the problem is.
Here's some history:
The first time this happened yesterday AM, I just replaced the blown b/up fuse with the spare 10amp and the car ran fine the whole day, including several feet of reversing.
The second time this happened was today AM. I ran out of extra fuses, and decided to use the ABS (10amp) fuse instead, to be able to go pick up extra fuses at the local autoparts store. On the drive, I kept seeing check engine and ABS failure messages on the IP, as expected.
After I replaced the 2nd blown fuse, the check engine light came on. I didn't have my code reader with me (it's a funky bluetooth obd reader + android tablet, and i don't always carry the tablet). Had the local gas station look at the codes, and was told of "speed sensor" and a "high-speed controller link" error codes.
Reversed out of the parking spot at the gas station, and the fuse blew again. Twice.
Nothing on the car (other than as described above) has changed in the past several months. I haven't had the car washed for over 6months, but did drive in the rain several weeks ago. There haven't been any other changes at all (I opened the hood up just yesterday after several weeks of not needing to). The car is stock, there haven't been any major modifications (except, I removed an aftermarket nav system and put the stock 6cd radio back, but that was several months ago).
I'm pretty sure there's some sort of electrical fault somewhere, but can't quite figure out what / where.
Just this morning, my 2006 Azera Limited would not cycle on the A/C. I found that the 10 amp fuse for the A/C solenoid had blown. I replaced the fuse. The A/C worked perfectly, blew ice cold air, for about 15 minutes. Then the fuse blew again. Replaced the fuse again, the compressor clutch kicked and started to turn compressor and fuse blew yet again. Replaced fuse a third time, blew immediately. And now tonight, the dash lighting will not go into "night mode" - will not dim the instrument cluster fully, and the night illumination on controls will not light. Also, randomly, the fog light indicator will not light - even though the fog lights are on and illuminated. Not sure all these things are related, but it seems like some sort of major failure is occurring somewhere. I looked for shorted or burnt wiring under the hood, couldn't find any. Other than taking the car to Hyundai and paying two arms and a leg? I have seen posts for other Hyundai models where the compressor wiring shorts against the compressor - but so snug down there I haven't been able to check it properly yet. Also, another post suggested the clutch coil may be bad? But if it was, would it kick in and run properly for 15 minutes? I'm mechanically inclined, have done a lot of work myself on cars for over 20 years, but this one stumps me...
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