Azera TG (2006-11) :: P2068 CEL Code / Loose Connector
Oct 5, 2015
Got a CEL in my 06 Azera yesterday. Went to autozone and got two codes
P2068 but I think the gentleman told it was both sensors (I guess A and for the fuel gauge.
He said it could possibly be a loose connector.
My question is: where is this connector located ? And what should I be looking for. I most likely will bring it to a recommended mechanic, but just want to know more about it.
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I recently bought a beautiful 2005 6.8L V10 Excursion with ~90k miles. While looking under the hood, I noticed a loose cable. See attached pictures. Where it may have come off?
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A few weeks ago my check engine light came on.......P0021 code. Three days later the light went out.
A few days ago MIL came on again.......P0021 code. Today MIL went out.
Does this warn me of potential CVVT issue or oil control valve problems? Having this "on-off....on-off condition?
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I recently bought a used '06 Camry V6.
After driving it for several days, the red airbag light went on on the instrument panel. Certainly, I do not want to go to the dealer, not only because of costs, but also cause of the distance of the dealership from my home.
I did a bit of a research and so far have tried disconnecting the ground wire on the batter for half an hour, in order to reset the computer. Although, as soon as I plugged in the wire back and turned the car on, the light did not disappear.
After looking online, I found a similar problem and a solution regarding Toyota Sienna in this link: [URL] ....
-Following the advise, I remember that right before the light went on, I have tried to reach for the plastic water bottle that ended up deep under the driver's seat.
Is it possible that the airbag problem stems from the loose connector under the driver's seat? If yes, how should I approach this.
Also I recently had my intermediate steering shaft replaced [URL] .... Are there chances that such replacement caused the airbag to fail. This manual does not tell any steps to disconnect any yellow wires (or wires at all).
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Just got this Azera with 61K running after replacing front end body parts. This code (bank 2 sensor 1) came on. I reset the code and it came on in about 30 miles again. From my reading it seems this car has 4 O2 sensors.
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My check engine light came on again tonight. I recently had it checked and it was a bad O2 sensor and was replaced under warranty. I took it to Autozone tonight, as the dealer was closed, and it came back a troublecode of P0110. They did not have that specific code for the Hyundai, but for the other cars (Toyota, Mazda, Kia, Lexus) it is saying IAT sensor or Intake Air Temperature circuit. It is saying possible open or short circuit, faulty iat sensor, or faulty ecm.
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Have got a Azera 3.3 which is showing P0171 CEL. Have cleared it but it soon returns and emissions are well out. Have tried with my limited knowledge to check the live data via a scanner but everything seems OK.
I've cleaned the MAF sensor but I'm thinking of replacing it but don't want to do this unnecessarily!
Is there anything else I could be checking? Car drives OK and there's nothing obvious symptom wise other than the emissions and the CEL.
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Azera that is coming up with the error code P2422. I have figured out that the code relates to the EVAP system. I have cleared the code a few times but it always comes back within a few kilometers. Also I have started to notice at some gas stations that the gas stops pumping around every $5 i put in the tank. This only happens at some gas stations but not all that i go to.
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Having problem on my wife's 06 Mountaineer, 4.0. Couple months back the loose gas cap light came on out of the blue. I bought a stant gas cap and cleared the code, no problems. Well about 2-3 weeks ago it threw code 0450.
One of the things I saw it could be was the fuel cap. So I ordered a new Motorcraft fuel cap this time and cleared the code. Ran it about a week and the light came back on. No change is performance, mileage, and no fuel smell. So, I don't know what the problem is.
OBD II Code P0450 : It says that a common misdiagnosis is the fuel cap. Says that it is most likely a defective sensor or something. Need to change the fuel tank pressure sensor?
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Today i came back from a long drive around 250km. After 1 hour i again started the car it drove well for 2 minute then suddenly engine conked off wasn't restarting i knew it was a fuel related issue. Then I smelled petrol got out of the car saw pool of petrol but it wasn't leaking i removed the panel in my boot and to my horror i found the fuel line connector was unattached to the fuel pump.
So whenever if i would switch on ignition it will spill fuel everywhere. I reattached it and got a nice locking sound tried to pull it but it was really secure. What should i do?Get the connector replaced? An year ago i got my fuel pump replaced could this be because it was not connected properly?
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I tried to remove the MAF in 2007 Sonata Limited, and could not figure out how. I removed a cap by lifting the tabs on the sides, but the connector with the wires was still attached. I flipped over and saw another kind of tab on the bottom and seemed to be tricky to be disengaged. I did not want to go further because I broke Toyota ignitor connector not too long ago so I know some of the connectors with plastic tabs can be delicate. I want to make sure it is more clear to me before I proceed further.
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I purchased an OEM VW ipod connector and need installing it to my factory radio. Looking for how to's? or pictures.
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Changed the spark plugs on my 2006 Camry today. Everything went smoothly and quickly except for the fact that I broke all the little keeper clips on the connector plugs that connect to the coil packs. I called my Toyota dealers and one said I had to replace the entire wire harness. The other found the connector plugs for around $8 each. Will the broken clips be a problem with the connectors eventually coming off from vibration if I don't replace them? I'm not sure how to replace the connectors if I go that route. How to go about replacing the connector plugs?
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My 06 azera will not crank or start some times. I put the Key in and nothing happens. The lights and radio all the bells and whistles work but the car wont start or crank. I turn the key and nothing, just silence. I take the key out and wait for 2 to 5 minutes at most then the car starts. I have taken it to the dealer and because the problem will not replicate itself for them, they can not fix it.
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I have a 2006 F250 XLT 6.0 diesel. I bought last month to haul my fifth wheel. Looking for the wiring diagram for the "under hood lamp". I have no power at the connector of the under hood lamp. I have checked all the fuses in both locations (battery box and central junction box) and did not find a blown fuse. The under hood lamp is not listed on the the central junction box fuse and relay posting in the owner manual. Is it controlled by something else?
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My Oil Filler Cap won't come off...it just makes clicking noises when I turn it....I've been told Ill have to break it off somehow.....I can't do an oil change until I solve this problem..it is a 2006 Azera....
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My 2007 Azera alarm keeps going off for no reason at all. How do I fix or unplug the alarm system?
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I have a 2006 Azera. H&R lowering springs. I just replaced the front struts but they are not stiff enough to stop some of the bounce. Any stiffer aftermarket strut that I could use to stiffen the front end?
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Several months back the maintenance guys at the local dealreship somehow managed to screw the AC compressor which was covered by the warranty and replaced with new one (or so they say). Ever since then the engine noise becomes louder and more audible when I switch the AC.
A simple experiment to compare - let your car slowly crawl (1st gear or D) with your foot off the accelerator and try to make a difference with the AC on and off. When I do this I can clearly hear louder noise from the engine compartment as if the motor is significantly loaded.
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I purchased my Azera 5 years ago and it now has 44,xxx miles in it. The car runs well and everything works on it but I am now on my second set of tires!
The car came with Michelin tires and at about 25k they were extremely noisy. Investigation revealed the tires were scalloped and not wearing properly. At that point I had an alignment done. At 35k I had the alignment checked and found that it was 'out' and had the alignment done again.
At 43k I replaced the tires with Continentil Tires and the tires were balanced and the alignment was done. This alignment was 'guaranteed' for 6 months and I returned prior to the 6 month expiration for an alignment check and found it was 'out' and the shop corected the alignment. This correction was needed after only 1,000 mi!!
So here I am - 6 yrs of use with 44k accumulated and 4 alignments
The tire shop is well regarded in the area so I think their work is competent and we have reasonably good streets and we have not hit any curbs so where does the problem lie?
The Sonata (v-6) that I had before was only aligned once when new tires were installed and the Mercedes cars I owned before that I don't think were ever aligned.
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