Azera TG (2006-11) :: P0171 Code And High Emissions Output
Apr 16, 2015
Have got a Azera 3.3 which is showing P0171 CEL. Have cleared it but it soon returns and emissions are well out. Have tried with my limited knowledge to check the live data via a scanner but everything seems OK.
I've cleaned the MAF sensor but I'm thinking of replacing it but don't want to do this unnecessarily!
Is there anything else I could be checking? Car drives OK and there's nothing obvious symptom wise other than the emissions and the CEL.
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Have got a 2006 Azera 3.3 (same engine as Sonata and have had no luck in the Azera section) which is showing Check Engine Light and P0171 code. Have cleared it but it soon returns and emissions are very high. I have tried with my limited knowledge to check the live data via a scanner but everything seems OK.
I've cleaned the MAF sensor but I'm thinking of replacing it but don't want to do this unnecessarily!
Is there anything else I could be checking? Car drives OK and there's nothing obvious symptom wise other than the emissions and the CEL.
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I've been chasing this P0171 code for over a year now. STFT is normal plus minus 5 but LTFT won't go below 21.1%. At highway speeds the lowest the LTFT will go is 10-15% then goes back up to 21.1% at idle.
Things I've done:-
- New the air intake gasket to the Orange one
- Cleaned the MAF sensor
- New PCV
- Smoke test reveal nothing (vacuum is at 21-24 in-Hg) (did not smoke test the exhaust yet)
- Changed to used fuel pump. Funny thing here is that now when I shift the car to park the STFT steady increases to 25%. The old fuel pump never done this. But the car feels like it has more power now.
- New gas cap
- Cleaned TB
- Cleaned fuel injectors and flow tested
- New A/F sensor and downstream O2 sensor
All parts were either genuine Toyota parts or OEM Denso. My next course of action is to buy a new Denso fuel pump or replace the ignition coil pack.
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What difficulties might I run into on switching in the HO alternator. Is it that hard to get the stock alt out/putting the serpentine belt back on once i get the HO alt in?
Any pictures or videos to make this job easier? The stock alt almost looks impossible to get out unless i remove the entire radiator.. Should I just bring it to a shop and have them install it?
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I just purchased my 2006 Passat 2.0T FSI and she just broke 100,000 miles.
So yesterday my car popped the P0171 code, STOP Low Coolant light flashing, and Tire pressure very low, so today i will be removing my cold air intake and forge diverter valve adapter and bring her to the dealer for warrenty work. I will keep this thread updated with whats wrong with her.
Tire Pressure Low: all tires looked fine.
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My accent 2006 has the check engine code p0171. AT mornings I have to start the car like 5 times until it revs up and do not stall. Also when the car is running, If I press the gas too much it starts misfiring and have really slow acceleration. I have already change the 02 Sensor, spark plugs, TPS and maf sensor, and PSV valve, cleaner the throttle. I really don't know what else to look for.
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I noticed when I first start of my 2006 Azera at night or even during the day and make the first turn of of my driveway or out of the parking lot at work there is a high pitched whining sound. Sounds like it maybe coming from under the car maybe from the back. I thought at first it maybe a belt (power steering) under the hood but it sounds like it coming from the back side of the car. It only does it one time mostly when its cold outside. What can it be?
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I have a 2006 Ford Ranger with the 3.0L v6. The check engine light came on and the code it is blowing is a P0171. It runs rough at idle or when I let off the accelerator and "fine" at speed.
The code told me to check/clean the MAF which I have done. Next on the list that I saw was the PCV valve. I disconnected the electrical to it and then disconnected the hose. Some oil poured out of it... not a lot but some... The valve still seems free, it clicks when I rotate/shake it and I can blow through it (I know, highly scientific). I can replace this (if I can find it, Napa and Advanced Auto don't have a part that looks like it...) but I'm wondering what else could be wrong.
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A few weeks ago my check engine light came on.......P0021 code. Three days later the light went out.
A few days ago MIL came on again.......P0021 code. Today MIL went out.
Does this warn me of potential CVVT issue or oil control valve problems? Having this "on-off....on-off condition?
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I have a 2006 Chevy Trailblazer LS/LT 4.2 liter 2wd. I have been trying to get it smoged, but can't clear the code. P0171 - Lean Bank 1.
I've been having a parts throwing contest with it, but it has been winning and my wallet is losing.
I have changed the air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor, changed both O2 sensors, changed the secondary air valve and relay. I've done the carb cleaner spray test around the intake and vacuum lines, with no spikes in RPM.
Most recent try was a couple bottles of Techron concentrate with premium chevron gas.(still waiting to see if the code hits again)
Next steps are checking the intake bolts(to see if they are torqued) and intake gaskets, check for exhaust leaks at the exhaust manifold, and checking the MAP sensor.
Freeze frame data from the most recent hit on the code is below.
***Fuel system 1 - CL***Fuel system 2 - NA***Calc Load(%) - 30.2***ECT(deg c) - 48***STFT B1(%) - 3.9***LTFT B1(%) - 22.7***MAP(kPa) - 33***Eng RPM - 809***Veh speed(km/h) - 0***Spark Adv (deg) - 10.5***IAT(deg c) - 20***MAF (G/s) - 5.82***TPS(%) - 15.3***Air status - NA.
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Got a CEL in my 06 Azera yesterday. Went to autozone and got two codes
P2068 but I think the gentleman told it was both sensors (I guess A and for the fuel gauge.
He said it could possibly be a loose connector.
My question is: where is this connector located ? And what should I be looking for. I most likely will bring it to a recommended mechanic, but just want to know more about it.
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Just got this Azera with 61K running after replacing front end body parts. This code (bank 2 sensor 1) came on. I reset the code and it came on in about 30 miles again. From my reading it seems this car has 4 O2 sensors.
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My check engine light came on again tonight. I recently had it checked and it was a bad O2 sensor and was replaced under warranty. I took it to Autozone tonight, as the dealer was closed, and it came back a troublecode of P0110. They did not have that specific code for the Hyundai, but for the other cars (Toyota, Mazda, Kia, Lexus) it is saying IAT sensor or Intake Air Temperature circuit. It is saying possible open or short circuit, faulty iat sensor, or faulty ecm.
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Azera that is coming up with the error code P2422. I have figured out that the code relates to the EVAP system. I have cleared the code a few times but it always comes back within a few kilometers. Also I have started to notice at some gas stations that the gas stops pumping around every $5 i put in the tank. This only happens at some gas stations but not all that i go to.
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So I recently got APR stage 1 low output (93 octane v1.2) installed and loving it so far on my '15 GTI. I went with the low output tune after hearing many clutch slipping issues and since this is my daily driver and i need reliability, didn't want to risk it too much. BUT... I am starting to wonder about the regular output. Going low to high, worth it? Seems like a 20-29 hp difference would be a lot. Have the stage 1 regular tune and no clutch slipping issues?
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I decided to change out my alternator to a high output. After researching I've decided to go with a DC Power...I'm planning more lights and a power inverter. Any recommendation on which one? I don't care what it cost just don't want to over do it, can too many amps hurt anything? Also, on my previous EX I did the big 3 upgrade. Is it the same on a 2 battery setup?
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Bought a Powermaster 250amp alternator for my '05 V10. Says I need to upgrade my power and ground wires to 4 gauge with fuse on power cable. I don't really run too many accessories other than HID heads and fogs and 2 DVD screens for the boys.
Do do I really need to upgrade my wiring? Can't imagine I'm pulling much more amperage than stock (130amp on my truck).
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My Honda CRX, 1989 failed the NJ Inspections for very high Emissions. The engine has 200,000 miles. I had a lot of repairs done on it: new majorrnator, new oil pan cover, new engine gasket, new radiator, new axels. brakes, new alternator. catalytic converter, muffler. Unfortunately, now it failed for very high emissions. I added the Diesel and Car Cleaner, but did not work. what can I do to fix the car so it will pass the Emissions Test? what can be wrong with it, and will it cost me a lot of money. Is it worth trying to cure it or should I retire it, and sell it?I am on a very tight budget, and am depending on this car for my transportation.
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I have a 2001 5.4 4x4 supercrew with 300,000 miles.. This truck is my baby. Recently when I start it up and after putting it in gear and begin taking off my engine is loud as if I am revving the engine without any indication in the rpms. I want to say it starts out on the trip a tad sluggish. Is there anything I can do to eliminate?
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My 1992 Honda Accord failed the emission test today for a too high NOX reading. The applicable standard is 2.50 and my car's reading was 2.61. I've read that high NOX has something to do with a malfunctioning EGR valve. Will replacing the EGR valve guarantee that I pass the emissions test? I don't want to start throwing money at all kinds of parts.
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On Sunday the high-pitched beep went off while driving, followed by the orange engine light to the left of the speedo needle and EMISSIONS WORKSHOP coming up on the computer.
Everything is normal. Revs are fine, temp is fine, no other lights come on. I checked the coolant and that is fine too. This happened about two months ago, but it stopped after a couple of days.
Could this be something like an O2 censor?
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