Azera TG (2006-11) :: Overheating When Driving At A Very Low Speed
Apr 13, 2011
My 2006 Azera has a most bizarre problem. I can drive the car just about any where I want to with no problem. However whenever I drive it at a very low speed it starts to overheat, and it overheats quickly. It is most notable when I drive up the hill to my house. It is a dirt road and is a very steep hill. I generall shift into 1st to climb the hill. To see if going into first caused the problem I tried the hill a couple of times leaving the car in automatic. One time it did not overheat and the second time it started to heat up a little but then cooled right down once I stopped the car.
The dealer told my wife there could be a bad connection on the battery and they tried tightening the connections and the second time they replaced a battery cable, which was not cheap, and how either of those could affect engine heat is beyond me. I am at times almost suspicious that perhaps I just have a temperature gauge that goes psycho every now and then, but it goes psycho consistently. I don't think it's a warped temp gauge. The dealer hasn't mentioned the thermostat as a possibility and I'm thinking of pulling it out and testing it myself.
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2006 Azera Limited; 221k miles
I'm a new owner of an old Azera. It's become apparent I'll soon be busting my knuckles ferreting out suspension noises. I gather from perusing various forums that suspension noise is a common complaint with the Azera.
In my particular case, the car makes two distinct noises which seem to come from front right corner. I here "clicking" when driven over minor road imperfections, and "scrunching" when driven over speed bumps. It's likely two (or more) disparate parts have failed.
I noticed significant cracks in both sides of the bushing located where the shock absorber mounting fork (54682-3K000) bolts to the lower control arm (54501-3L000). I'll replace this bushing then determine if doing so remedies the clicking noise at this corner. If replacing this bushing fixes the "clicking" noise, I'll replace its counterpart at the other corner, then move on to identify the scrunching sound.
My problem is, I cannot find a part number for this bushing! ...nor can I find a procedure to replace it. I presume it's just a matter of digging out the old bushing and press-fitting (with soap) the new bushing in its place. Surprisingly, the service manual (first edition) does provide any guidance.
I need the part number for this bushing and tips/tricks for installing it into the lower control arm.
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Have a 2009 Limited with 14,500 miles. After driving an hour at 75 MPH on interstate on a hot day, the car died. The immobilizer warning light came on, and I coasted to a stop. Waited a couple minutes, the car started right up, ran fine. Went a few miles, and car died again. This time check engine light also came on. After couple more times, car towed to dealer. No problem apparent at dealer. 4 codes were active - all HO2S Signal Stuck Lean. Dealer called Hyundai tech and were told to check gas quality and replace all ground bolts and sand paint at contact. Gas was O.K. Took for 42 mile test drive, no problem. I drove home on interstate and after an hour same thing happened. Obviously not a ground problem. Now running fine and at my local Hyundai dealer.
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My Azera has developed a misfire. Upon leaving work today it ran rough ass soon as I started it. CEL flashing.. I could feel it skipping as I was driving home. Skip never let up.
When I got home, I hooked up the Scanner to it. DTC P0300 was set. Which I think is random misfire. I checked underhood. Nothing appears amiss. With engine off I clear the code and restart the car, This time it set DTC P0301 cyl. #1. I think.
I do not have all the factory service manuals yet. so I need to know what the firing order is on the 2006 3.8 L VIN F Engine. And where the #1 cyl is located. I am suspecting a bad coil at the #1 Cylinder.
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I own a 2006 Hyundai Azera and my air bag dash light stays on after I start the car and while driving. I understand that there was a TSB for the passenger side airbag but not the driver's side air bag? I called the dealership and they told me that since I have over 60K miles, it is not covered under waranty. I have also read that there are air bag sensor wires under the driver's side seat and this could be the source of the problem. Is it easy to get under the driver's seat to access the air bag sensors?
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My air conditioner (from new) seems to work properly only when I'm driving over 50mph. On the interstate, for example, it's fine. Recently I had a passenger who really drew my attention to it. "What's wrong with your air conditioner. You should get it fix!"
It seems that, when I am stopped (as in stop-and-go traffic) or parked with the car running, the air conditioner blows warm air.
Is this normal for this car? It's a 2006 Azera. If not, is there an easy fix?
This happened from day 1, so I just thought it was normal. But I guess it's not.
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My tires are cupping on my Azera. I've had the tires rotated every 7500 miles as required by the maintenance schedule. The tires make a lot of noise while driving, especially at highway speeds.
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I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty 3.7L that has a temperature gauge on the dash that reads an overheat when driving. The oil looks normal, there is no white smoke, no bubbling from reservoir. I have replaced the following:
Radiator
Thermostat
Water Pump
Coolant Temperature Sensor
Coolant Reservoir Tank
I am not leaking any coolant and the reservoir level has been fine. I have let the vehicle idle for 20+minutes, with no overheat. When I drive it around, the temperature gauge will read an overheat. When I stop the car and pop the hood, the engine is not overheated and both rubber hoses to/from radiator are flowing the coolant. The only thing that will bring the gauge down is turning on the heater full blast. Could this be the gauge itself being bad? Could it be a short in a wire somewhere? I had thought maybe a head gasket, but have no symptoms of a head gasket.
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Noticed when A/C is on, the fan speed suddenly turns up (i.g. 3bars to 4bars), especially during recirculate mode.
The Auto button is set OFF (on the middle circle knob). Is this a defect?
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So randomly my sunroof has begun to rattle terribly when driving at 70+. It only rattles when closed, if I have it in the "up" position there is no rattle but obv then u get road noise.
I looked as well as I could down into the tracks and felt around and couldn't see or feel any loose screws or anything so I'm stumped.
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My 2009 sonata started having issues with slight up and down accelerations while cruising and the check engine light would come on Then during start up the engine would accelerate up and down about 1500 rpms. I have taken it to two dealers neither could find anything wrong and said their was no record of an event on the computer. Now the car is stalling while driving, once at highway speed. It has happened three time this week. After coming to a stop, I wait a few minutes and the car starts up like their is nothing wrong. The engine light comes on for a while.
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How to fix the low speed brake squeal on my GS. I have an o6 with about 80K on it. Have had it for four years and never winter driven. I am debating trading it off on an AWD GS or putting it into full time service as my year round driver.
I haven't driven a rear wheel drive car in the winter for 20 years. Everything else I have is AWD of 4x4. Here in Alberta we get some serious snow and ice. I have Nokian WR2 tires on it year round because you can get snow in the mountains even in July. I tried mine on the driveway after a good snow fall and even on Winter ESB and with good tires, it does not seem to have great traction.
Have any of you used your GS430s in regular winter driving, heavy snow and ice. How to get it to perform its best in deep snow or very slippery roads?
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I have a 2006 f250 and the heater will blow cold air unless you are driving in like highway conditions. If you stop or drive slow it blows cold air only. What is causing this???
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My 06 azera will not crank or start some times. I put the Key in and nothing happens. The lights and radio all the bells and whistles work but the car wont start or crank. I turn the key and nothing, just silence. I take the key out and wait for 2 to 5 minutes at most then the car starts. I have taken it to the dealer and because the problem will not replicate itself for them, they can not fix it.
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The engine light comes on and the wrench. Car doesn't get up to speed going up hills when this happens. One time it would not go over 30 without a whining noise. It's happened now 3 x's in 10 days.
First time the radiator cap was not on securely. Apparently that must have been from the shop because I have only had it for 10 weeks. Which is 2 weeks over the warranty and 2K miles over warranty also. Just my luck.
Doesn't happen every day, appears to be on hot days. When it's cool in the 50's or 60's I'm fine. First happened when it was high 90's. Then today its about 80.
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My R has 133,000 miles and is overheating at speed. It will cool down at idle. Both fans are working. The water pump was replaced at 105,000 and I replaced both fans at 95,000 miles. The dash temp gauge goes almost to the red, but not all the way. It gets hot enough to shut off the A/C compressor.
Based on the collective wisdom of this forum, does this is a failing water pump, or a partially opening thermostat? This past winter it seemed to take longer for it to get warm. I'm leaning to thermostat.
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So yesterday in traffic my R went up 1 tick on the temp gauge while in traffic. It took about 30 minutes in traffic for it to go up that one tick. I know that there is some test you can do to check if the low speed fan is coming on. What is that test?
This morning in traffic for 45 minutes and no overheating of any kind, temp didn't move from full vertical... That being said, when i got to my office, I popped the hood and tossed the AC on while parked, only 1 fan (pass side) was running, aren't they both supposed to be going with the AC on?
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I have a 96 honda civic that I can't seem to figure out why its overheating. I've changed the water pump, thermostat, radiator cap, and cleaned the system a number of times. It only seems to overheat when I'm on the free way and up to speed. When I get to my destination I see that the water overflow is full of water like to the top of the filler, so the water is being ejected out of the system. It also seems to have a lot of pressure in the system.
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My Oil Filler Cap won't come off...it just makes clicking noises when I turn it....I've been told Ill have to break it off somehow.....I can't do an oil change until I solve this problem..it is a 2006 Azera....
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My 2007 Azera alarm keeps going off for no reason at all. How do I fix or unplug the alarm system?
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I have a 2006 Azera. H&R lowering springs. I just replaced the front struts but they are not stiff enough to stop some of the bounce. Any stiffer aftermarket strut that I could use to stiffen the front end?
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