Azera TG (2006-11) :: Occasional Hard Shift While Accelerating From A Signal Light
Mar 1, 2012
On my 2006 Azera Limited with about 27,000 miles on it. Occasional hard shift issue. Normally the car is only driven 10 miles a day to and from work no problem. But on longer trips have hard a few instances of hard shift.
The first time this hard shift bump occurred was when I was driving on city streets 2 minutes after getting off the freeway after a 2 hour drive. On a scale of 1-10 this was a #5 bump like feel followed by a #3 bump in the next few minutes while accelerating from a signal light. There were no further bumps that day, even after another 2 freeway drive.
The second time the #3 bump happened was on an on ramp after a 3 hour freeway drive and a short rest stop. No further bumps that day even after another 3 hour freeway drive.
The last time this #3 bump happened was on a city street after a 45 minute freeway drive. No further bumps on the return trip. I am not sure which gears this bump happens between.
I have no MIL set. So I took it too a transmission shop and they could not find anything wrong but said there was a code C1616 CAN Bus Off Failure. His opinion was that this problem maybe an electrical issue.
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2008 Hyundai Azera 3.8L V6 .... Purchased in 2009 with 11,000 miles.
In early November 2012, I experienced occasional episodes of a low brake pedal, which did not affect the stopping power of the vehicle. Most of the time, the car stops and behaves normally. However, once in a while, the brake pedal drops/travels farther than usual. (This is accompanied by a heart pumping, "I'm about to blow through this stop sign", moment.) I had a full brake inspection performed at my usual automotive repair shop. Nothing was found to be wrong with the system. Linings were 30% front, 90% rear (rears were done at one year prior, at 48,000 miles). Odometer at the time was 64,850.
I returned to the shop one week later with the same symptoms. Again the system was inspected, and nothing was found to be wrong. Decided to replace the master cylinder as the most logical explanation of the symptoms. Drove car successfully, without symptoms, for approximately 1,600 miles.
Recently, at 66,600 miles, the same problem has returned. Returned to the shop for additional brake inspection. No faults were found in the entire braking system. No stored ABS codes. No visible fluid leaks. Fluid is clean and full. Shop contacted local Hyundai service representative, who claims that this behavior is normal for this particular vehicle. Claims that as the ABS hydraulic pump cycles, the vehicle will feel like is has no brakes (but will stop properly.)
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I have a 4 cylinder 2000 Ford Contour 133k miles
I've only driven the car for about 2 months, Ive never had an issue with it until yesterday other than an occasional hard shift when driving the car hard. Yesterday when I dropped the car in drive it wouldn't pull at all, I sat in my apartments parking lot continually revving the car high in drive but it wont do anything, its like the car is in neutral. Reverse works and I can drive by manually shifting from first to second and then putting the car in drive, but if I put it into drive before reaching 3rd gear it jumps back to neutral.
I checked the linkage, and the lever it connects to on the transmission; when put into drive the position of the lever coincides with the neutral position. I called a few local transmission shops and they diagnosed is as a broken sprag, but from reading online it seems like it could be a clogged transmission filter or a faulty transmission range sensor. Prior to this issue I would sometimes here a whistle coming from under the hood when driving, I didn't know until today that a whistle is indicative of a vacuum leak, but wouldn't it throw on my check engine light? I have checked my transmission fluid, its at the correct level and is a nice cherry red, it doesn't have any bad or burnt odor.
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My 2012 Toyota Camry SE V6. 37,500 miles. Occasionally when I'm parked shifting down to reverse it's so tight/put effort to shift & it literally thumps the entire car.. I heard to put the E-BRAKE/PARKING BRAKE down BEFORE shifting it to park & it worked but occasionally even with the E-BRAKE/PARKING BRAKE it still jerks the entire car going from PARK to REVERSE.
Also going from REVERSE to NEUTRAL it gives off a little vibration underneath me ALL THE TIME going from REVERSE to NEUTRAL.. I know these are so many questions that are probably a no-brainer answer but I'm looking to see if any one here had/has or heard of a similar or exact problem. Is the trans fluid low or dirty? I saw the CARFAX I didn't see the services he's done it's only been 1 owner on this car I'm the second. Previous owner leased it brand new.
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So, back when my car was my dad's, he used to drive a lot on the freeway for his job. He said that after getting off the freeway and transitioning to in-city driving, the transmission would start to act up. It only happened when the car was hot, and it's generally fine for just driving a couple miles to work like I do, albeit the occasional rough shift every now and again, but I'd like to be able to hit the freeway if I need to without worrying about the transmission badly misbehaving.
Also, I'm not sure if it's even relevant to that issue, but I've been aware of the fact that at least two of my ignition coils are bad, a common problem in MC Accents to my knowledge, and the engine hasn't been running as smoothly as it could be for the past several months. Is it at all possible that a long-standing misfire issue could play havoc with shifting patterns when the transmission changes from freeway to in-city shifting behavior?
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So, I bought an used 2006 Hyundai Azera Limited few days ago. It's clean title and has 86k miles on it now.
After three days from the purchase date, my car starts causing transmission problems, hard shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear only. It's getting worse now...
Now, what should I do? ...
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So, in my 99 Bounder RV (F53 chassis), V10
I think it has a 4R100 transmission in it (I have not verified this).
I had the oil and filter changed about 10K ago.
Runs and shifts fine .... then I stop and idle with it in gear (say stopped in traffic for a few minutes).
Now the thing shifts super hard! I actually get rubber in all gears.
So I pull over, shut it off. Restart the unit and everything is fine again.
It does this very consistently!
I went to the local transmission shop. They said with 110K in an RV it could be anything and I should think about letting them rebuild it.
Now that is something I would do ... not diagnose a problem and just rebuild it. I thought a "professional" would actually look for the problem first.
I don't want to rebuild the transmission if there is small item that will fix this.
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Tonight while driving and accelerating fairly hard we began to hear a noise. The car sat parked for roughly 5 hours and then we began to drive it home (apx. 12-15 miles). About halfway through the drive the power steering went out and the battery light came on. The battery light would turn off and the drivers seatbelt light would come on even while it was buckled. These two lights alternated being on and off 2 times each. We heard something that sounded like a rock got kicked up into a wheel well. After getting the car home with no power steering we noticed the car had begun to run very hot. almost all the way up the gauge.
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Although there are no more leaks (p/s fluid from rack and pinion and motor oil from valve cover gasket), I did notice a couple of things. First, the "ESC off" light off comes on when I start driving. The light is turned off when I start the car. Second, the steering feels a bit firm. It was softer before the parts were replaced. Shouldn't it be the other way around (firm before replacing the parts and soft after replacing them)?
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Nothing is plugged in or sometimes something is plugged in and it makes no difference! That light comes on whenever it wants and it is driving me batty!
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Recently my wifes 2009 Sonata limited has started having a hard "clunk" when braking. It feels like a hard shift from 3rd to 2nd (or 1st?) during deceleration. Only really occurs when moderately cold and only during the first 10 miles or so of travel. What I should check?
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I have brand new ( 800KM ) Accent with Automatic transmission and I noticed that it shifts from 1st gear into 2nd kinda rough. By this I mean that I can feel shift pretty good, and I don't feel shifts from 2 to 3 to 4. I don't rev engine high, typically shifts occur when engine revs around 2000 rpm.
I am not sure if it is a transmission defect or this is the way it shifts? May be I need to breaking my car first and it will go away?
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