Azera TG (2006-11) :: Noisier Engine When AC Is On
Mar 2, 2010
Several months back the maintenance guys at the local dealreship somehow managed to screw the AC compressor which was covered by the warranty and replaced with new one (or so they say). Ever since then the engine noise becomes louder and more audible when I switch the AC.
A simple experiment to compare - let your car slowly crawl (1st gear or D) with your foot off the accelerator and try to make a difference with the AC on and off. When I do this I can clearly hear louder noise from the engine compartment as if the motor is significantly loaded.
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I noticed some time ago that engine is making a sound like smth. is spinning very fast (gyrscope? mass wheel?) That happens when it is idle or drives slow, when I accelerate the sound disappear. The sound is hearable inside and outside of the car.
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Was driving my Azera back from lunch and got to work and we have some speed bumps in the work lot - it's a big one (not blaming them), but when accelerating, i noticed a lag and then a thrust from the engine, then the same on the second one. Then after a corner the engine cut out completely, I'm able to start the car, but it won't hold idle and just dies within 3 seconds.
2 hours later started the car, and it does idle, but just surges on the RPM's, and if you give it gas on delay it will increase the RPM's? I'm not driving home like this, it's getting a tow. The RPM's are all over the place at idle (just not high) and the
118,500km 2006 Azera. If the plugs, or wires have ever been done, feels a lot like Coil packs, maybe EGR. Never overheating. At first I thought maybe fuel pump, but it's getting fuel now, but rattling rough.
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Less than 30 days ago, replaced the Timing Belt, Water Pump, Front Arm Bushings, and Power Steering High Pressure Hose on my 2007 Honda Odyssey.
Today, my wife noticed the engine was noisier than usual, then suddenly became stranded on the roadside when the power steering went out; at the same time a "Check Charging System" error displayed on the panel. The van was within walking distance of home. I got it home and checked the engine, finding the Power Steering Fluid Reservoir to be nearly empty (far lower than the minimum line).
My questions - am I right to think Honda blew it? Does the above scenario sound like they simply forgot to refill the fluid after their repair? Or other? If negligence, what sort of damage may have resulted that I should be on the lookout for? Finally, why is the "Check Charging System" light coming on as a result of this?
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I have a 2006 azera limited with about 63k miles on it and I noticed in the owners manual that at 60k I should have the valve clearance checked and adjusted if theres vibration or rough idle. I currently have a rough idle and more vibration from the engine.
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Question to everyone who drives an Azera out there. This is regarding the 3.8 V6 engine.Does your engine make a whirring noise at around 2000 rpm? Sounds almost like a supercharger whine, starts at around 1800 rpm and continues up to the low 2000 rpm's. It's not a loud noise, only audible with low volume music or none at all.
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I constantly hear 'tick, tick, tick' sound from the engine at start. Once the engine gets heat up, the sound disappears. I live in canada so it is still kinda cold in the morning. I didn't have this problem in the summer. the problem started in december when it gets really cold in canada. so i thought it might be an engine oil problem. I called the dealer to ask what kind of engine oil they use for my azera, ans they said they just use a regular engine oil with viscosity of 10w-20. However when I check the manual, viscosity of 5w-30 is recommended. I know engine oil with viscosity of 5w-30 is thinner than the one with 10-20w and therefore easy for the engine to get heat up and better protection at start in the winter. What viscosity engine oil do you use for you azera? Will using synthetic engine oil useful??
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I got this problem for 10 days and by the time to take my car to the auto shop it turned out that now I cannot start the engine at all. I started to hear that the starter is still running for a second or two after I switch on the engine but I was busy and was not able to leave the car for a check. Well, this morning the car gave up and refused to start at all.
Before I blame the starter I was thinking about the ignition lock although I didn't noticed anything problematic with it. I think that the battery is OK since I didn't lost the radio and I still can operate the windows as well.
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Rough start like some thing missing, check engine light came on, shut off car checked my oil, ok, restart runs smooth but check engine light stays on, went to dealer 8 mile drive, car ran fine ????
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I have recently noticed that my Azera makes a "knocking" sound right after starting the engine. It just about a dozen of fast short knocks one after another and it is gone after 2 seconds (like a diesel engine started on low temp. It appears more often when the engine is rather cold.
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My check engine light came on again tonight. I recently had it checked and it was a bad O2 sensor and was replaced under warranty. I took it to Autozone tonight, as the dealer was closed, and it came back a troublecode of P0110. They did not have that specific code for the Hyundai, but for the other cars (Toyota, Mazda, Kia, Lexus) it is saying IAT sensor or Intake Air Temperature circuit. It is saying possible open or short circuit, faulty iat sensor, or faulty ecm.
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I have a 2006 azera limited 63k miles on it and I'm getting a rough idle that sounds worse when the weather is cold. also when I press the gas there is hesitation from the car to accelerate. on top of that, I feel vibrations from the engine all through the driver and passenger seat. When I turn the car on it idles at 1300-1500 rpm and takes about 5-7 minutes to come down. when it does , it idles at 650 rpm. I'm not getting any check engine lights or codes. I've replaced spark plugs, air filter, had the air induction service done at the dealership, and had to have Hyundai put on a new throttle body last march when it gave out on me while at work. the dealership doesn't know what it is and said to use a fuel additive when I fill up the tank. I have and am waiting to see if that does anything. I put in a bottle of CRC 1 Tank fuel system cleaner 2 days ago. I've even changed my brand of gas from exxon to bp just in case. I think it may be a bad hose for the idle and a bad motor mount for the vibration. Could an O2 sensor be going bad?
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My 2006 Azara has had a no start problem since about a year after we bough it new. The condition is intermittent and is not dependent on outside temperature, humidity or other conditions, It happens when the engine is cold or hot. Sometimes the problem goes away for a week or so then it comes back. It happens with either key.
The engine cranks over but does not start. Usually resolve it by sitting for 10 - 15 seconds then trying again. Sometimes have to do this two or three times before it fires. All other electrical items work ok and the battery has no problem powering accessories. I've had it into the dealer however because it is difficult to replicate, they have a hard time repairing the problem. The first time they neutralized the immobilizer and re-programmed it. The second time, I got a check engine light and they replaced the immobilizer. But the problem continues.
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I have a 2007 Azera with a 3.8 engine. It has 16000 miles without any problems. There is a clicking noise coming from the engine compartment when accelerating. The noise only occurs when the engine is cold and seems to be more pronounced when accelerating quickly. I do not hear it when the car is idling.
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12 Santa Fe, I decided I better give it the once over. I found the cabin air filter was pretty bad and that surprised me because I don't drive in dusty areas etc and usually don't drive much at all any more since I got a company car but anyway....to the question: AFTER I changed the filter, making sure the airflow arrow was correct, I noticed that the blower motor is much noisier than before especially when set on the higher fan speeds. The sound is much like a off balance fan with a bit of a thump to it. Could I have dropped some of the dead bugs into the fan when I changed the filter? I was careful and didn't see anything fall into the fan area but the noise is annoying as heck. Is this something that would be covered under Hyundai's warranty? Headed to the Florida Keys Saturday and not looking forward to hearing that racket all the way down there.
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Went to start "Larry", my 1990 Ford F150, the engine cranked but did not start. I switched to the other fuel tank and it started right up. The tank I normally use is the rear one and the pump had been getting noisier while it was running so I knew it would be soon to fail and it made no sounds when I checked it later to see if it would click and whir. I pulled the tank and installed a new pump. To test it I turned the key and heard the pump whir and stop. I turned the key to start and it started and died a couple ti mes. Front tank switched on and the truck started. While running I switched to rear tank and it died. So I have the pump in and it sounds like it runs up to pressure but the fuel is not moving.
Thought maybe I had fuel lines crossed but my manual seems to indicate they are two different sizes so that left me scratching my head... I have years of experience doing all my own wrenching but this is my first in-tank pump replacement. I have assisted a friend on a couple but never really wanted to pull a fuel tank and in my case this job required I remove the tow hitch set up as well. The hand pump for $9 at Harbor Freight was worth every cent as it made moving fuel to front tank a snap. So what the heck is happening? I don't see how a pump could be installed wrong, it is getting power on initial key turn...I should add the only time it did start I presume was because of fuel in the line that the front tank had supplied on previous start ups...
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So I have a swb LS with right at 100k miles. drove great and got tires (same brand same model Continentals as the previous set) put on yesterday - right after that the car got noisier (mechanically, not because of the tires).
When I drive over 25-30mph it's like the car rattles...it starts "rougher" and is audibly noisier in idle now. The water bottle in my cup holder visibly shakes and did not do this before yesterday. What's weird I watched the guys install the tires, they never got close to anywhere under the hood..
Just to rule out the possibility, I had the tires remounted and rebalanced but of course same issue. Sounds like a noisy tranny or like I have an aftermarket muffler..have noticed a slight lag in acceleration (oil change at lexus 600 miles ago).
I got new plugs, air filter, coolant flush, diff fluid flush within the past 3 weeks and had no issue with the car until yesterday. My early suspicion is a motor mount or muffler-exhaust related issue?
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My 06 azera will not crank or start some times. I put the Key in and nothing happens. The lights and radio all the bells and whistles work but the car wont start or crank. I turn the key and nothing, just silence. I take the key out and wait for 2 to 5 minutes at most then the car starts. I have taken it to the dealer and because the problem will not replicate itself for them, they can not fix it.
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My Oil Filler Cap won't come off...it just makes clicking noises when I turn it....I've been told Ill have to break it off somehow.....I can't do an oil change until I solve this problem..it is a 2006 Azera....
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My 2007 Azera alarm keeps going off for no reason at all. How do I fix or unplug the alarm system?
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I have a 2006 Azera. H&R lowering springs. I just replaced the front struts but they are not stiff enough to stop some of the bounce. Any stiffer aftermarket strut that I could use to stiffen the front end?
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