Azera TG (2006-11) :: Headlights Dim When Braking Or Taking Foot Off Gas
Sep 4, 2007
I have a 2006 Azera Limited, and over the past few months I have noticed that when driving it is dark, my headlights will dim drastically either when I brake under about 30 mph, or when I let up on the gas going around 30-35 mph. I can see the tach drop to below 500 rpm, and the interior lights will also dim. It frustrates me because I took it to the dealership yesterday to have them look at this, and they said they couldn't see anything wrong. They said there were no error codes, the alternator was fine, and the battery looked fine. They said "just keep an eye on it" when I picked it up yesterday.
This morning on my drive to work it happened about 5 times. It bugs me because I feel as if it is going to stall, and when the lights dim like that, I can't see!! It's usually brief - about a second or so - but still. What it would be, so when I take it back to them I can tell them what is going on? I love my Azera, but to be honest I don't know much about the inner-workings of cars, so where to start if I was to look at it myself. It seems electrical, but they assured me that nothing was wrong.
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Noticing that my drivers seat is taking a long time to heat up. I usually warm up the car in the winter, and turn on the seat heater. The seat is still cold when I get in, and does not heat up until I go a few miles. Have to check and see if the passenger is doing the same thing.
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Maybe around 35000 miles, experienced a creaking noise when you brake? The car typically does it after warming up, but every time I come to a complete stop, the rear of the car produces a creaking noise right before the braking completes. I brought it to Hyundai, they couldn't replicate it. So I took them for a drive myself, and was able to replicate it, however the technician had never heard or experienced this before. So far it's intermittent, but whenever it's more constant I'll bring it in again.
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Like it says my lights have quit on my 07 with 53,000 miles . I have checked the fuses under the hood , the two 20 amps are good . I think they are number 15 and 23 . There are also two relays that i think control the lights , how do you tell if there bad . The bulbs are good and i have checked and have no power to the lights . It seems odd for both HI and LO to go out together .
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I have the same problem that many azera and sonata owners have where my headlights dim when i slow down or apply brakes etc on my 06 azera. I have found the alternator to battery positive issue and fixed that with another piece of 4awg wire added (now has 0 volt drop). That didn't fix the issue.
Then i seen a suggestion of checking/sanding all grounds. Did that to battery to chassis, chassis to trans, engine to chassis, pcm/misc grounds (bunch of 5), and 2 more by windshield washer reservoir. This didn't fix the problem either
I've had my alternator checked and my battery as well. My only questionable idea as of now is my battery. Its the right size and checks out fine but only rated at like 450cca, etc vs 700+ and I assume more reserve at advance auto parts? Not sure if the battery is oem or not it is some bs "powervolt" brand.
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I have a 2016 Elantra that was bought brand new in October of last year. Since about January, the front end of the car bucks when taking your foot off the accelerator to slow down. The brakes do not need to be applied to cause this to happen. When I say it bucks, it happens repeatedly for 3-5 seconds and everyone in he car can feel it. This happens mainly when going at speeds of 20-30 mph and when going short distances such as stop sign to stop sign or in bumper to bumper traffic. If I put the car in neutral the bucking instantly stops. Unfortunately this doesn't happen every day so the dealer has not been able to replicate it as of yet.
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I have 2005 Prius, 53K miles on it. Bought it as used car few months ago. It has been running great since then.
Since last few weeks I have been hearing a soft beep every time I take foot off the brake. Today I had my windows down while driving and I realized that the soft beep is actually a loud noise like squeak or beep. I can hear a noise every time I take foot off the brake (NOT when putting foot on the brake).
Anyone can standing near the car or other car drivers at red-light can hear the sound too.. This happens when- the Car is in D, I take foot off the accelerator and press the brake (to slow down or complete stop) then take foot off the brake.
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The headlights went out on the automatic "arrive home mode" more than the programmed 15 seconds. The interior overhead and foot lights took as much as 5 minutes to cease and desist.
V6, silver/gray
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Today I noticed that it feels like my R decelerates rather quickly as soon as I take my foot off the gas. In my old GTI, it seemed that it would glide in whatever gear I was in for a while. In this, however, It seems to slow down VERY quickly if I am not pressing in the accelerator.
Am I just crazy, or could this be an actual issue? My only thoughts are that the emergency brake cable is too tight and the brake is stuck on a little bit? Any thoughts?
I do have a CEL on from code P3801, which I read is most likely the ECT sensor. I know this may cause a loss of gas mileage, but could this be the culprit of this (almost) issue?
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I have a 2009 Tiguan Auto Diesel and have noticed recently that, when cruising along, if I take my foot off the gas pedal the revs drop to idle. The revs only pick up again if I touch the accelerator. Im sure it did not used to do this. If you feather the gas pedal to maintain a set speed (say 50mph) then this can have the effect of the rev counter dropping to idle and going up again to, say 2500 rpm all the time.
The rev counter seems to be all over the place!!! I also had a stall situation the same day. I was leaving a driveway to join a main road. The driveway is on a slight incline when exiting. I nudged up to the kerb line as normal and then took my foot off the gas to check noting as coming. Nothing was so I accellerated gently and the car stalled. I think this is related.
The Tigual Auto box is not DSG it is regular Auto and it is also 4motion. I have noticed the haldex doing its thing in D2 when pulling off, you know that weird bit where the revs drop a bit even though the gear is not changing. This is a little similar to that but not the same....
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I have a '92 toyota camry that we just purchased and put a new engine in... now it's stalling when you come to a stop and are taking your foot off the accelerator. we've tried a fuel injector, a fuel clean, fixed vacuum leaks, and replaced the fuel filter, and fuel preside regulator... it's still doing it and is getting worse.
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After putting my front end back together except new springs, new shocks, and new track bar, just to give everyone a little history of what I've done to it. I've had it for 8 months and maybe put 1000 miles if that because of working out of town a lot and the front end torn apart. I've noticed a louder roar coming from the rear end when taking my foot off the accelerator without pressing the brake. It feels like the tow button is engaged, but isnt. I have no issues with handling besides knowing it still needs alignment. I'm taking it to the dealership tomorrow for a 4 wheel alignment. It sounds and feels like I'm riding on mud terrain tires.
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My car smells a little like something's burning and sounds like I'm engine braking when I take my foot off the gas (on the flat). My brother stated definitively that it was the rear differential - something about burning oil. I took it to the dealer who said it couldn't possibly be from the donut tire I had to use to drive to the airport, but lo and behold - the rear dif was having issues. I read the manual for my 2005 Subaru Impreza very carefully when I changed the tire, in the dark, in my driveway - with a flashlight, and no-where in it did it list how far I could go on the spare.
I ended up going about 50 miles at below the recommended speed because it was 3 AM and I had no other way to get to the airport. It did not mention anything about turning off AWD by removing or adding a fuse (as has been mentioned elsewhere in this forum) or any other way of turning off the AWD for that matter. It said NOTHING anywhere - I checked before, after, and again just now. Even when I called the dealer, AAA, and four different tire shops no-one could tell me how far you can drive on a spare or whether or how it might damage my car.
Anyhow I bought 4 new tires before driving home from the airport, but seem to be stuck with burned oil in the rear differential. The dealer acted like there was nothing they could do except replace it when it got bad (it's barely noticeable now). I asked if they couldn't just change the oil - to at least delay any additional damage but the guy shrugged as if it didn't matter. Is that really true? Is there nothing to do but pay $2,100 to replace the rear differential. Seems crazy.
It's a manual transmission and it did start snowing badly on my way to the airport if it matters (but I was driving very slowly - with hazards on and everything).
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Toyota Yaris 2008 with 165,000 miles, so far great car. I drive an average of 100 miles a day, and had no problems until the last 6 months that the driver side headlight burnt out. So no big problem, right? just replace it... Well, about 2 months later, the other one went out, replaced it too. This morning at 1:30a.m getting home from work, a hwy patrol stops me because the driver side headlight is out, and gives me a warning ticket. I took the car to my mechanic so he can check wires or something, but he says that there is nothing to check, that after a while "those" lights go out like that. I am not sure about that, I really do not want to be changing lights every 2 or so months.
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Is there a way to resume cruise control once it is stopped by braking or hitting the cruise button? My other vehicle saves it so that it can be resumed but I don't see this option in the Azera and have to set it up again every time.
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My 06 azera will not crank or start some times. I put the Key in and nothing happens. The lights and radio all the bells and whistles work but the car wont start or crank. I turn the key and nothing, just silence. I take the key out and wait for 2 to 5 minutes at most then the car starts. I have taken it to the dealer and because the problem will not replicate itself for them, they can not fix it.
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08 Sonata: I have been noticing this for a couple of months.
Its summer out here in CO and my car typically has the the thermostat on cold, but the AC is off, Air on fresh air (default with AC off), windows rolled down. After driving the car for ~ 5-10 minutes, the vents for the driver and passenger's feet blow out hot air. It gets just a little difficult to breathe and I am forced to turn the AC on. The AC works fine, no issues.
I am at 43k miles and wanted to run this by the forum before heading to the dealer.
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My Oil Filler Cap won't come off...it just makes clicking noises when I turn it....I've been told Ill have to break it off somehow.....I can't do an oil change until I solve this problem..it is a 2006 Azera....
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My 2007 Azera alarm keeps going off for no reason at all. How do I fix or unplug the alarm system?
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My 2007 Sonata V6 limited would produce a pop / clunk sound (sometimes 2-3 in succession) under these circumstances
- Car is coming to a stop (brake applied)
- When I release my brakes, press on the accelerator, a pop / clunk sound would ensue
It doesn't happen all the time. I noticed it's more prevalent when it's hot outside or when I've driven the car for a little bit
My mechanic re-tightened the subframe bolts and visually checked bushings / ball joints but everything seems tight.
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Have a 06 Grand Caravan 3.8L that suddenly quit and would start back up easily enough, but one had to keep foot on the gas to keep it going.
I pulled two codes:
P0123-throttle postion sensor 1 high
P0508-IAC valve sensor circuit low/undercurrent
So far I have removed the IAC and cleaned it with throttle body cleaner, cleaned throttle body out as well with the spray, installed new EGR since it got mangled trying to remove it for cleaning. Removed the TPS connector and with key on, took measurements and I am getting a reference voltage proper ( almost 5 volts). I then back probed the connector once it was plugged back in and again things checked out, the reference lead was varying between .7 and 4.7 volts as I manually moved the throttle plate.
I had switched out the IAC with a used one, from an engine that had been running before being parked, but it made no change.
Note: I have a new TPS but am holding off on changing it until I investigate whether or not it may have a clogged fuel filter causing it to stall at idle speed. Now if can just locate where it is..the sketchy diagrams in my Alldata program are useful.
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