Azera TG (2006-11) :: Click Noise When Putting Car In Drive Or Reverse
Jul 20, 2015
I have a 2006 Hyundai Azera Limited, 3.8 with 5 speed automatic; car has 139K miles. I am noticing a small 'click' noise when putting the transmission in Drive or Reverse, and sometimes when accelerating from a dead stop. Car otherwise drives beautifully - the 'click' doesn't seem to affect driving it. The CV's don't make a clatter if accelerating at full wheel lock, which is usually the tell-tale for bad CV's. Is this something simple? My thoughts are:
1.) Somehow it's a CV joint. Grayson Hyundai said they're 'shot' but I think I would notice more than a brief click? They said a whole bunch of other things were wrong on their 'inspection', said the brakes were 'shot' because the rotors had rust on them... I don't trust that opinion.
2.) A motor mount or transmission mount. Seems more likely since would be most noticeable with torque.
3.) Something in the suspension. The car has new tie rod ends, but there may be something else worn/loose that I'm not aware of.
4.) Maybe I am just being too picky. The car drives awesome!
Maybe I'm overreacting, I just don't want some sort of catastrophic failure to occur.. The car still feels very robust, solid, and overall quite healthy..
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I am a new driver and I made the following mistake twice.
Twice over the last month, after street parallel parking, engaging the foot parking brake, turning off and exiting the car, I noticed the spacing from the front and back car is a bit off so I went back inside the car to move the car slightly.
However, I forgot to disengage the parking brake first, so I put the car into R, and when the car did not move, I tapped on the accelerator. Only then did I remember to disengage the parking brake.
If I just tapped on the accelerator slightly, does it damage my car? I haven't noticed any problems yet, but I feel terrible about the screw ups.
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2008 Azera with 90K miles won't start or crank. Unhooked battery and hooked it back up--no joy. No lights on the dash--absolute silence when turning the key. Doors and trunk won't auto-unlock. Can't get it into neutral to move it so I can try to jump it. Almost like it has some kind of kill switch.
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I have a 2012 F-150 STX 4x4 with the 5.0 liter. I have noticed that when I put my truck in to reverse and sometimes drive I get a click sound. I jacked up the truck thinking it was the drive shaft that was loose but it wasn't... But I believe it is coming from the rear end. I found a video of the sound on youtube.
Check it out : 2013 F150 Rear End Click - YouTube .....
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My Accent is a 2007. It regularly has the check engine light come on. They continually claim it's the fuel cap. When it's colder, even when it's been running it continually stalls when your putting it in reverse. They also claim that's not a problem. It's only got 25K on it. So the fact that it's already have problems is rather annoying.
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My mechanic noticed an engine vibration when he was installing my new brake pads and rotors. He noticed the vibration when putting it in reverse. He then checked the engine and mounts. He then asked about the timing belt. I told him the belt was changed at 62,000 miles. The Accent currently has 76,000. He thinks that the belt may have jumped or a counter balancer is not working right. I do not know if the 2007 has a counter balancer. Any diagram of the timing belt, pulleys and counter balance (if it has one). It is a 2007 GLS with auto trans.
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I drive a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS and it has about 84,000 miles on it. Sometimes in the morning the car will not start and I have to start it in reverse... Often times the check engine light will come on and stay on and other times it will go out. Sometimes when I am putting the car in reverse it stalls out... Then there is this horrible loose knocking noise that I think it coming from the steering wheel... Is this car about to put me down?
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So I have a 06 350 and I'm getting clunking from drive to reverse and now with drive too, I know my rear diff is on it's last days but I am wondering if that could cause the clunking and now my truck around 90km shakes likes crazy and same thing wana know if that's the diff. And if I was to fix diff myself would it not just be easier for me to just swap axles if I wanted to be cheap??
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No codes, transmission makes a slight grinding noise when putting it into reverse only. Has a slight bump from 1st to 2nd. I flushed 16 quarts of the sp3 through it. Been researching and see a lot of talk about the output and input sensors. Not my car but my sisters. Needs axles, timing belt water pump, ps return hose, plus have champions in there and old ass hyundai wires.... thing does idle rough, motor mounts are new.
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I got a 1986 chevy g20 conversion van and I am having a problem with it once in a while it will stall out after putting it into gear it does not do this a lot but it does happen also smells like its running rich and until it warms up while the van is in park you can hear a intermittent click sound goes click click............................click...click no real rhythm just kinda does it then stops when in any gear besides park friend said it could be a small backfire. The engine is a 350 V8 4 barrel carbed.
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I have a 2009 Corolla S and the symptoms are as follows:
1. Normal forward driving, brakes work fine (and as expected without sound).
2. In reverse, when I apply the brakes I hear a click (clunk) sound from the front brakes. It only makes the sound when I'm going from moving to stopping (IE: I cant just keep pressing the brake once stopped to generate the noise). But if I let myself continue in reverse and press pedal again, it will make the same sound (very repeatable). I don't need to go forward to replicate the sound, I can just stay in reverse, stop (CLICK), continue in reverse, stop (CLICK), etc.
3. The it's noticable in the pedal. I can feel it on the brake with my foot when the noise happens.
4. It happens when I depress the brake pedal about 1/4 down, a gentle stop. And usually happens every time when I back out of my driveway or parking spot.
5. GF's sister's 2009 corolla CE does NOT make this noise in reverse.
6. 20,000 miles, Orig tires/brakes, didn't happen 4ish months ago.
I plan on putting winter tires on next month. Perhaps I'll take a look at the pads to make sure they aren't moving around, but wouldn't I also hear the noise in forward motion? Or when I switch from forward to reverse?
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When I reverse on flat surface no bumps or anything like that... when I proceed to go forward I get a light click pop noise from my passenger front area I don't know what it might be I will be putting it on a lift to check if anything is loose ...suspension mods are usrs bushing and bc coilovers ...What I should look at would be great. When turning or going over bumps I get no noise what so ever its only when I proceed so go forward after reversing
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I bought a 2009 Sonata V6 this past August. Immediately I had shifting problems. I asked my mechanic and he found the TSB. I took it to Hyundai and they took care of the TSB. The shifting problems stopped, but it is STILL literally JUMPING out of reverse when I'm going into drive. Dealer said they could not reproduce the problem.
I am a Toyota driver, and chose the Sonata based on price. So far, I am not impressed and plan to return to Toyota when this one is paid off. But, in the meantime, I want this car fixed, but the dealer acts like there is nothing wrong. I have warranty for another 25,000 miles....
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Owning a Lexus . I recently bought an '06 model GS300 and have just had an issue appear with it.
Issue is that, whether in drive or reverse, the car accelerates on its own - not very quickly, but quickly enough that it'll crash me into my garage door if I'm not careful.
What this could be? Variously, I've read that it could be a Throttle Positioning Sensor, or Idle Air Control valve. Some things I've read suggest it could be air conditioning related (though I don't understand that one...).
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Vehicle was repaired after front end collision and I get no codes found on scanner, had some bad connectors which I replaced and codes went away. I don't get ready light and the dash lights do not cycle off (ABS, SRS, Check engine, Etc. Etc.) The car will shift into neutral but not drive or reverse. Has new Aux battery and Hybrid battery is showing two bars. What to check ?
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I have a 2006 Chevy cobalt and am currently stranded with my husband. Last night as we were about to head home from visiting family 3hrs away, we got off at an exit and as we were stopping about to go again because the light turned green, the car stalled. We had to start it a bunch of times just to get it to the nearest gas station about an eighth of a mile down the road. The message on the dashboard said "engine power reduced". We looked up that message online and a few posts said to disconnect the battery. We did that a few times but when we went to go, it kept doing what it did before, stalling. We were almost to the road and decided we weren't going to make it so we put it in reverse and it drove just fine back to a parking spot. Why it would stall idling and in drive but not in reverse? We are baffled and currently waiting on a tow.
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Maybe around 35000 miles, experienced a creaking noise when you brake? The car typically does it after warming up, but every time I come to a complete stop, the rear of the car produces a creaking noise right before the braking completes. I brought it to Hyundai, they couldn't replicate it. So I took them for a drive myself, and was able to replicate it, however the technician had never heard or experienced this before. So far it's intermittent, but whenever it's more constant I'll bring it in again.
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As I am driving my 2009 Azera, every five or ten minutes there is a soft to moderately loud clicking (or clacking) noise for a second or two. I have tried pinpointing the location but it is difficult. When I have other people in the car, we each think the sound is coming from somewhat different locations.
The noise is loudest and most frequent when it is hot and the AC is running, so I am guessing it is associated with the cooling system. I have taken the car in twice. The second time, the service manager said she had read the Sonata was making some clicking noises in the moon roof, so she had my Azerra's moon roof serviced. That didn't work.
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Ten months ago the dealer replaced my front end suspension as the noise was getting worse. Everything but the shocks were replaced. Good news for me and after the replacement the noise was gone.
Six thousand miles later after a trip to south Florida and many bumpy roads the noise is back and with vengeance. It now sounds like a rusty front end noise. I just about given up on this noise issue. The 06 is out of warranty, no recalls, Hyundai knows the problem is on the 2006 cars and now I have the same problem yet it might not be the struts but maybe the shocks. The shocks bad after 35,000 miles. I can't see it but maybe. I need to get them looked at first to see if that is the issue.
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I have a 2008 GS350. Been having brake clicking when I move from reverse to drive and lately been happening more when driving regularly. Brought it in to Lexus to get the complimentary 19-point inspection and they said I needed new brake pads and rotors. I did do a search and found it can be issues with front spindles, sway bar, bushings.
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So I have a 2006 2.4 sonata with a transmission whine only when pressing on the gas in drive or reverse. I just flushed and replaced the fluid and it is at the correct level. What I want to know is since the transmission has in internal filter, is it possible for me to clean it out to get rid of the whining sound?
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