Azera TG (2006-11) :: Car Stops Running After Driving An Hour At 75 MPH On A Hot Day
Jul 23, 2011
Have a 2009 Limited with 14,500 miles. After driving an hour at 75 MPH on interstate on a hot day, the car died. The immobilizer warning light came on, and I coasted to a stop. Waited a couple minutes, the car started right up, ran fine. Went a few miles, and car died again. This time check engine light also came on. After couple more times, car towed to dealer. No problem apparent at dealer. 4 codes were active - all HO2S Signal Stuck Lean. Dealer called Hyundai tech and were told to check gas quality and replace all ground bolts and sand paint at contact. Gas was O.K. Took for 42 mile test drive, no problem. I drove home on interstate and after an hour same thing happened. Obviously not a ground problem. Now running fine and at my local Hyundai dealer.
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Recently my wife took her car to work. While driving on the highway the car all of a sudden quit responding to pushing on the gas. As if the pedal had no affect at all. The electrical was still in tact as my wife pulled off to the side of the road and turned the car off. Before I could reach her to pick her up she had started it again and it started right up no hesitation at all. Upon dropping her off at work I came back and it started right away and I drove it to her work and she then drove it home at the end of the day with not problems. It sat in our garage for a few days and I decided to take it out to see what happens for myself. I drove it for a full day stated right up every time and it wasn't until the second day I drove it around that it did the same thing to me. Gas pedal had not response. All electrical seemed operational, still had power steering and the dash was lit. I pulled over then waited a few minutes and it fired right up and I was on my way. Wondered if its the fuel pump and how I could test that out. As I said is starts right up every time with no hesitation. Also I have fuel pressure tested it and it shows a 60 the during idle.
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1999 Nissan Maxima. My AC works great until I take a trip. About an hour into the trip the AC slowly stops cooling. I turn the fan onto high to unthaw, this works a little but it is still very warm. If I slow down to about 45 going through a town the cooling will improve until I return to highway speed. My mechanic has checked the freon, changed the sensor two times. When it has stopped cooling I have checked under the hood and the AC is still clicked in, as if the AC does not click off when it is cool enough and freezes. My mechanic has come to the conclusion that there may be something in the computer.
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My jeep is having two issues. First, almost every time I start the vehicle it idles fine, but then when I start to accelerate it bogs down for 1 to 2 seconds. I will accelerate through it and after that it runs fine and doesn't do it again until the next time I start the vehicle. My second issue is that after driving for a couple of hours with the AC on, the flow of air out of the vents drops. The air is still cold to the touch just barely blowing. Once I cut the motor off for about 30 minutes it works fine again for a couple more hours. Also, when the intensity of the air coming out of the vents dies down the blower motor sounds like it is working harder to put out the little bit of air pressure.
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So I have this recurring problem where my passat will die while driving, and fail to start. Usually I know it will die because the accel. is sluggish and the power steering is dead (but no light) when i start it, but today that did not happen. It just died completely out of the blue.
When it dies, it cranks for a second, then stops and the dash screen/lights fade out. The most annoying part is that everytime, I get it towed, then it starts.
The first time it happened the dealer said nothing was wrong. It started for them fine. Kept it overnight, and was good next day. Died a month later from same thing.
Second time the dealer said the alternator and battery were bad, got both replaced. (about 6 months ago).
Today it died again, with no symptoms beforehand. Tried for a while to start it, no go. Nothing engine related worked. Auxiliary did though. Had AC / Radio / Hazards just fine, i only used hazards though.
Got it towed, and I myself went and started it right after it got off the truck, it started. Had to give it gas to get it stable, but it started. I had the dealer check it out, and they said they found 3 fault codes that they have never seen, then later told me they did not know, and didn't want to blame anything unless they were sure.
This was right in the middle of a vacation trip 2 hours from home, and I decided i should just turn back. On the way back I noticed that the AC, Cig Lighter, and Heated Seats were not working. On top of that the car felt like it would die at any moment. Almost no throttle, sounded very weak / quiet. And about 25min in the car started stuttering, like it was about to give up. I pulled into a parking lot and tried it 20min later, started completely fine. No sluggishness, but AC etc still out. After that I got it home fine.
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I have a huge problem!!! While I'm driving every week my 07 Santa Fe just "kicks out". First my touch screen system cuts off then the car will stop running. This morning every time I hit the brakes my check engine light would pop on then my touch screen and lights would "restart". As I was pulling into my neighborhood it completely cut out of me. Nothing worked, not even the power door locks. And I couldn't put it in park. This has never happened. Usually it just kicks out, restarts and then I can go. This has got to stop!!
In the past when this has happened I was able to pop the hood and wiggle the wire on the battery. Then my lights and everything turn back on and I can continue to go where I was going. Battery and connectors were replaced in June 2012
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I got this problem for 10 days and by the time to take my car to the auto shop it turned out that now I cannot start the engine at all. I started to hear that the starter is still running for a second or two after I switch on the engine but I was busy and was not able to leave the car for a check. Well, this morning the car gave up and refused to start at all.
Before I blame the starter I was thinking about the ignition lock although I didn't noticed anything problematic with it. I think that the battery is OK since I didn't lost the radio and I still can operate the windows as well.
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My odyssey stops running when I am driving on the road. The instrument panel goes off and the engine shuts down. There are 166,000 miles on it. I took it to the Honda dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong.
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My 2006 Azera has a most bizarre problem. I can drive the car just about any where I want to with no problem. However whenever I drive it at a very low speed it starts to overheat, and it overheats quickly. It is most notable when I drive up the hill to my house. It is a dirt road and is a very steep hill. I generall shift into 1st to climb the hill. To see if going into first caused the problem I tried the hill a couple of times leaving the car in automatic. One time it did not overheat and the second time it started to heat up a little but then cooled right down once I stopped the car.
The dealer told my wife there could be a bad connection on the battery and they tried tightening the connections and the second time they replaced a battery cable, which was not cheap, and how either of those could affect engine heat is beyond me. I am at times almost suspicious that perhaps I just have a temperature gauge that goes psycho every now and then, but it goes psycho consistently. I don't think it's a warped temp gauge. The dealer hasn't mentioned the thermostat as a possibility and I'm thinking of pulling it out and testing it myself.
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My Azera has developed a misfire. Upon leaving work today it ran rough ass soon as I started it. CEL flashing.. I could feel it skipping as I was driving home. Skip never let up.
When I got home, I hooked up the Scanner to it. DTC P0300 was set. Which I think is random misfire. I checked underhood. Nothing appears amiss. With engine off I clear the code and restart the car, This time it set DTC P0301 cyl. #1. I think.
I do not have all the factory service manuals yet. so I need to know what the firing order is on the 2006 3.8 L VIN F Engine. And where the #1 cyl is located. I am suspecting a bad coil at the #1 Cylinder.
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I own a 2006 Hyundai Azera and my air bag dash light stays on after I start the car and while driving. I understand that there was a TSB for the passenger side airbag but not the driver's side air bag? I called the dealership and they told me that since I have over 60K miles, it is not covered under waranty. I have also read that there are air bag sensor wires under the driver's side seat and this could be the source of the problem. Is it easy to get under the driver's seat to access the air bag sensors?
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My air conditioner (from new) seems to work properly only when I'm driving over 50mph. On the interstate, for example, it's fine. Recently I had a passenger who really drew my attention to it. "What's wrong with your air conditioner. You should get it fix!"
It seems that, when I am stopped (as in stop-and-go traffic) or parked with the car running, the air conditioner blows warm air.
Is this normal for this car? It's a 2006 Azera. If not, is there an easy fix?
This happened from day 1, so I just thought it was normal. But I guess it's not.
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My tires are cupping on my Azera. I've had the tires rotated every 7500 miles as required by the maintenance schedule. The tires make a lot of noise while driving, especially at highway speeds.
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I have one Hyundai Accent 1.4 from 2006 gasoline with 61.000 km. I have a strange problem. Sometimes the engine car stop while driving. This problem appear when i change from 5 to 4 or from 4 to 3 with ac on. Without ac the problem not appear. If i try to start engine again he start without problem. No error storage in ECU. I replace gasoline pump but the problem appear again.
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I'm having 2008 Sonata Limited model with 60k miles. i was on a busy street when my 08 Sonata died and i had to coast into a parking lot put it in neutral and restart my car. This is happening two or three times per week. I reported this issue to nearest hyundai dealership and they are not able to figure out this problem. Again this week I am taking this car to them to find out the root cause. What it could be?. Right now I'm kind of scare to take this car to outside.
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This happens not all the time, can cold start and the car runs fine but then once its shut off then started for use again later it will shut down, sit on roadside for 2 minutes with key off and then restart and good to go again...its a random thing...the check engine light does come on...
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I've got a 2006 f250 with 160,000 miles, trans was rebuilt by previous owner about 10,000 miles ago. The tow/haul light started blinking yesterday, only blinks for first couple of minutes of driving and then stops. Service engine light popped on today as well. Won't have access to a code reader until tomorrow, but looking for some preliminary info...
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Every time i run 50 miles per hour i feel shaking on my steering wheel..i did balance on my tire and alignment..still the same..
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2002 Ford F350 7.3...
After replacing the Glow Plug Module and the cam sensor. I have no codes on the scanner. However, after driving the truck for one hour or two it stalled and after cool down about a while t started and stalled after hot. Now I been reading lots of info and this is what I got so far.
Flow Sensor
Fuel injector control
Fuel pump
And one person said that he change the wire harnesses for glow plug on top of the head covers?
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2000 2WD 4.6L ... I was trouble shooting why the truck will not start after it has run for awhile then sits for about an hour. I was checking the connections on the solenoid switch on the fire wall when my wrench slipped and touched both terminals on the solenoid and the engine starter kicked in. I tightened the connection then tried to start the truck with no luck. so I tried leaving the key in the "ON" position and jumped the two terminals and the truck started. Does this tell me I have a bad solenoid switch?
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My 2007 Honda CR-V has started to vibrate when I am driving around 45-50 miles an hour. Seems to be in the wheels. Doesn't happen all the time. At first I thought the road was rough, but now happens more often only for brief period then drives normally. The majority of the time, it's when I take my foot off the gas to maintain or slow speed. Car dealer took it for a test drive. They told me my tire pressure was too high and took air out, but the problem persists. They checked the wheel bearings, the joints, etc.
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