Azera TG (2006-11) :: Air Conditioner Only Work Properly When Driving Over 50 MPH
Jun 9, 2009
My air conditioner (from new) seems to work properly only when I'm driving over 50mph. On the interstate, for example, it's fine. Recently I had a passenger who really drew my attention to it. "What's wrong with your air conditioner. You should get it fix!"
It seems that, when I am stopped (as in stop-and-go traffic) or parked with the car running, the air conditioner blows warm air.
Is this normal for this car? It's a 2006 Azera. If not, is there an easy fix?
This happened from day 1, so I just thought it was normal. But I guess it's not.
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As I am driving my 2009 Azera, every five or ten minutes there is a soft to moderately loud clicking (or clacking) noise for a second or two. I have tried pinpointing the location but it is difficult. When I have other people in the car, we each think the sound is coming from somewhat different locations.
The noise is loudest and most frequent when it is hot and the AC is running, so I am guessing it is associated with the cooling system. I have taken the car in twice. The second time, the service manager said she had read the Sonata was making some clicking noises in the moon roof, so she had my Azerra's moon roof serviced. That didn't work.
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I have a 2008 Azera, my A/C is not working properly, when I turn it on the drivers side is COOL, the passenger side warm air is coming out.
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As the title says.
* Remote won't work
* Handle above license plate won't work
* Lever in front door by the gas cap lever won't work
* Only thing that works are physically putting the key in the trunk opener and also emergency latch inside the trunk
What gives?
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The driver side door lock doesn't work electronically. It locks and unlocks with the key and the knob on the inside but not with the remote and central locking. Though when I lock it, it does make a sound and the knob moves a little. Need to confirm that it is in fact the actuator ...
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I am the owner of a 2009 Accent L (Canadian model) sedan. I have had this car from brand new and I have had two warranty issues with this car in the last 6 months. First at approx.36000 miles (60000Km) the stop light switch started sticking, so the brake lights wouldn't work properly. The second issue was the turn signal/ headlight combo switch malfunctioned and started to smoke. The dealer replaced these under warranty after some hassles.
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My 2006 Azera has a most bizarre problem. I can drive the car just about any where I want to with no problem. However whenever I drive it at a very low speed it starts to overheat, and it overheats quickly. It is most notable when I drive up the hill to my house. It is a dirt road and is a very steep hill. I generall shift into 1st to climb the hill. To see if going into first caused the problem I tried the hill a couple of times leaving the car in automatic. One time it did not overheat and the second time it started to heat up a little but then cooled right down once I stopped the car.
The dealer told my wife there could be a bad connection on the battery and they tried tightening the connections and the second time they replaced a battery cable, which was not cheap, and how either of those could affect engine heat is beyond me. I am at times almost suspicious that perhaps I just have a temperature gauge that goes psycho every now and then, but it goes psycho consistently. I don't think it's a warped temp gauge. The dealer hasn't mentioned the thermostat as a possibility and I'm thinking of pulling it out and testing it myself.
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Have a 2009 Limited with 14,500 miles. After driving an hour at 75 MPH on interstate on a hot day, the car died. The immobilizer warning light came on, and I coasted to a stop. Waited a couple minutes, the car started right up, ran fine. Went a few miles, and car died again. This time check engine light also came on. After couple more times, car towed to dealer. No problem apparent at dealer. 4 codes were active - all HO2S Signal Stuck Lean. Dealer called Hyundai tech and were told to check gas quality and replace all ground bolts and sand paint at contact. Gas was O.K. Took for 42 mile test drive, no problem. I drove home on interstate and after an hour same thing happened. Obviously not a ground problem. Now running fine and at my local Hyundai dealer.
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My Azera has developed a misfire. Upon leaving work today it ran rough ass soon as I started it. CEL flashing.. I could feel it skipping as I was driving home. Skip never let up.
When I got home, I hooked up the Scanner to it. DTC P0300 was set. Which I think is random misfire. I checked underhood. Nothing appears amiss. With engine off I clear the code and restart the car, This time it set DTC P0301 cyl. #1. I think.
I do not have all the factory service manuals yet. so I need to know what the firing order is on the 2006 3.8 L VIN F Engine. And where the #1 cyl is located. I am suspecting a bad coil at the #1 Cylinder.
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I own a 2006 Hyundai Azera and my air bag dash light stays on after I start the car and while driving. I understand that there was a TSB for the passenger side airbag but not the driver's side air bag? I called the dealership and they told me that since I have over 60K miles, it is not covered under waranty. I have also read that there are air bag sensor wires under the driver's side seat and this could be the source of the problem. Is it easy to get under the driver's seat to access the air bag sensors?
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My tires are cupping on my Azera. I've had the tires rotated every 7500 miles as required by the maintenance schedule. The tires make a lot of noise while driving, especially at highway speeds.
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Air Conditioner sometimes works, sometimes doesn't. when it does, it works fine.
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My radio does not work kinda... when i turn the car on it works for a minute just fine, then the volume goes off and i cant put it up or down, but i can use and other function cd/casset fm, change stations and all that i just cant use the volume, or hear anything if i turn the radio off and then back on it works for like 5 sec then same thing happens.... I know sounds like fuses, but why does it work then shuts off?
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I have a 2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx LT with 94k miles. On cold mornings I have consistent problems with the car's electronics. They can be as benign as a warning bell about 2-3 minutes after starting driving. Sometimes, one of the warning lights will accompany the bell (power steering, traction control, etc), and then return to normal. Some mornings, all of the gauges will not work/stop working for the first 2-3 minutes of driving and then return to normal. The worst case scenario is that the car will not start at all. All lights, radio, etc. will work, but the car will not crank. I have had the car to a couple of shops where they have tested the battery and starter.
Both are new and working fine. No codes are ever generated. My question is how can I go about isolating what appears to be an electrical (or electronic) fault somewhere in the system that gets aggravated by cold weather. I read in another forum that the ignition system in other GM cars (the Saturn ION was one example) would trigger a fault in the ignition system in cold weather and the KeyPass security system would shut down the ignition for 10 minutes. For me, it's only occasional that the car will not start, but there is some electrical issue most every day that it's below 40 overnight. I have never had an issue after the car has started once during the day - this only happens on the first start of the day. Only once did the car go 2 days without starting.
1. Battery cables?
2. fuses?
3. etc.?
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We just bought our 2012 Chevy Cruze in April (it was a rental return) and in the last couple of weeks the (computerized) radio has started to go berzerk. It doesn't do it all the time -- which is why the dealership hasn't caught it yet -- but when it does, it keeps rebooting itself in the manner of this other 2012. Will the car suddenly die on us without warning? We're going to make the dealership take it back if they can't find the cause and fix it.
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I have a 2002 Camry LE, and the rear driver's side blinker does not work properly, I mean that I have replaced the bulb, and it will work rarely.
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I own a 2001 Ford Taurus 3.0 OHV V6. What would cause the heat to not work properly? The engine temp gets into the operating range as it should and the coolant flows well. I'm just not getting more than 10 degrees above outdoor air from the heater.It doesn't matter where the controls are set, anywhere from defrost to vent makes no difference.
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Is it true I can never have different types of tires between front and rear? Even if the size is the same? I put on winter tires the other at the front. The result was a nasty noise when I would accelerate and release the pedal suddenly... I had to switch back to my old summer and (unequally) used front tires.
I wonder why that is. Furthermore, the wear on my tires is not equal between front and back.
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I just bought a 2007 and my Multi Information Display does not work properly on the climate control screen or information screen. ie when you press temp up or down buttons it sometimes works and when you want to change the fan speed and press medium it goes to low. On the information screen no matter what you select it goes to Trip information screen. However the Audio screen works perfectly.
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I have a 2004 v8 phaeton. Recently I found out the front shocks cannot work properly to absorb the shakes. I can feel stiffened and the car swayed badly on those light offroad. How come it doesn't happen to the rear shocks but just the front one?
It is so uncomfortable while driving in my car. I also drove it to vw 4s and have the tire rotation, wheel alignment done, then they checked the air suspension and said it still worked. Actually they didn't make my car being better, coz when i drove it back home i can still feel the same, shocks are tough and the car swayed, I wondered if the front shocks have been worn out. Then I ask the advisor from vw if he can order the new parts for me, then he answered they cannot replace them for me, coz it is air-shocks, i am so confused , what's that mean by air shocks?and air shocks can not be replaced?
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It seems as though whenever I turn on the AC in the car (and sometimes even if I don't engage the AC) all the windows lock and only I can control them from the driver's control panel...
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