Azera TG (2006-11) :: 2008 - Rear Sunshade Quit Functioning
Jul 8, 2015
We have a 2008 Azera Ltd. with 108,000 miles. Until recently rear sunshade worked perfectly as we used in in auto mode retracting in reverse and going up in forward. No noise during any phase of operation. Not sure when but recently sunshade quit functioning. have tried console button without success but also hear no noise indicating a broken gear as others have reported. Have checked fuse on drivers side fuse panel and it is not blown. From this I can only assume problem is either motor has completely failed or switch is bad. I have laid in the trunk to see if i can access system but covers are all riveted so i thought I'd pull the switch and test it but not sure how to remove it without damaging console
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I have a 2008 Azera Limited with a rear sunshade. It works fine except that the switch (located on the console between the two front seats) jams. The switch has been replaced once by Hyundai, who said the old one was full of grit (it's possible - I own a dog who rides in the front sometimes). Since then I have been careful to avoid the grit problem. However, the switch is jammed again and I want to take it out and clean it or otherwise free it up, but I cannot get the console cover off. I can free up the front of it, but then it will not come off, being held in place further back by something I cannot find.
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I've been following CL for quite awhile now. I recently bought a 2006 GS300 and have experienced the stuck rear sunshade issue which I believe is a common issue. Mine gets to go up and down but only halfway up. Tried many things such as spraying lubricants etc but didn't work.
So finally decided to take the rear sunshade assembly apart to see what was wrong. Taking it out was not as difficult as some mentioned. Rear seats, side airbag covers, rear C pillar covers, 3rd brake light and sensor then the back board and finally the sunshade assembly. Got in there in under 30 Mins.
Tried to understand where it got stuck initially by checking the arms Etc but all was good. Eventually decided to open up the motor assembly (black box) and check out the motor and gears. Motor worked fine but one of the large gears had a broken teeth. Tried many fixes but eventually decided to buy the toughest steel epoxy in the market. Glued the broken teeth back and let it sit for 2 days to dry out.
Put all things back in reverse order and it worked like a charm. I only managed to take some pics of the disassembly...
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Like it says my lights have quit on my 07 with 53,000 miles . I have checked the fuses under the hood , the two 20 amps are good . I think they are number 15 and 23 . There are also two relays that i think control the lights , how do you tell if there bad . The bulbs are good and i have checked and have no power to the lights . It seems odd for both HI and LO to go out together .
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The sunshade will go up when you push button but will not go back down when put in reverse or pushing the button. The control arms move about 2-3 inches and stops.
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I had a question regarding the rear sunshade. Currently my sun shade is stuck in the middle position and it is very annoying and also is reducing my visibility in my rear view mirror because the bar is in the middle of my view. I took it to my local dealer and they said just to put it in the lower position would cost $800-1000. Does this seem fair ? I didn't break it, and why should I have to pay for something that is a malfunctioning part. The worst part is my rear view mirror is also turning black in the inside of the mirror also reducing my visibility ?
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Trying to decipher the problem with my 4WD not functioning. 2006 F150 S-Crew. Dash lights all light up when starting so those are functional however they do not light up when switch is activated. Checked the hub locking solenoid and have 12 vdc what seems constant to it with switch in any position. Removed vac tubes off solenoid and connected together and had vacuum at one wheel line. Did not check the other wheel. Checked fuses and all checked well. I will say I did not check every fuse marked 4x4 in the manual. May need another go at that. Replaced hub locking solenoid. Still not functional. Do not hear the solenoid coil picking up or any lights illuminating.
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My car was having a strange power issue after I went stage 1+. This occurred 3 separate times and always at the same moment in acceleration. I would be on the highway on ramp shifting from 5th to 6th and the car would just die, the turbo completely quit functioning. When this occurred the car had no power and would consume fuel like crazy. Each time this happened it was over 90 degrees outside. If I parked the car and let it sit for 10 minutes before re-starting it would be back to normal. Since going 2+ this has not occurred. I don't know if this was a protection mode implemented by the ecu or what.
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I just bought a used (25K miles) 2008 Azera. On Friday I started the car to leave work, and the ABS and ESC OFF lights came on. Not sure what to do I started to pull from my parking spot, and the front wheel ABS seemed to be engaging as i drove slowly (had the sound and feel of ABS as if I was making a fast hard stop). I pulled into another space and shut off the car. When I restarted it minutes later, the lights were off and no sound/pulsing feel. Is this a known issue?
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I've been living with a rattle in the rear shelf since ~6k miles. When I took the car in for an early 15k service, I told them about it. It rattles whether the radio is on or not, so it's not speaker vibration. The tech heard the rattle, but did NOTHING to try to fix it. I was told by the service writer that since I was past 12k miles, it may or may not be a warrantied repair! He said that if the part is broken, it would be covered, but if it simply needed an adjustment it would NOT be covered. How do you adjust a rear package shelf???
I called Hyundai and was told the same thing. The girl at Hyundai said they go by what the dealership says. It was almost like she was saying "wink, wink - have the tech say the piece was broken and we'll pay for it." I'm supposed to authorize them to tear the car apart not knowing what reason they'll give for the rattle. It's an intermittent rattle, so I've been tolerating it.
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My rear brakes are grinding so I am preparing to replace all pads and rotors. Any special tools or procedures from when they did theirs? Do the rotors have retention screws? Do you have to use a special tool to push in the pistons?
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I have a 2006 Azera and recently had the small part of the door handle fall off (part #83652E). I got a new part but wanted to know how easy it is to install this or whether I should have the dealer do it. Do I need a special tool to remove the door panel/clips or can I do it with something else. Once inside, is it just as simple as screwing the new part on through a hole in the door?
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My parents have a 2008 Azera with 65k miles on it. Bumper to bumper warranty has expired. Their trunk will not close. It doesn't seem to latch. Any recommendations before I take it to the dealer? What the cost may be to have it fixed?
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I have a 2011 Azera. The rear doors don't automatically unlock when shifting into park. They function properly otherwise. The child door locks are set in the open position.
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Last Wednesday, I went to the parking lot after a lunch meeting and my 08 Azera would not turnover. I assumed it was a bad battery (53,000 miles on the original) so I replaced it in the lot (The original tested dead at the parts house). After connecting the terminals of the new battery, the car would still not turnover. It wouldn't even click. I called road side assistance and when they arrived the car started fine by just turning the key - no charger/jump system was attached . I drove the car the rest of the day and put it in the garage that evening.
The next morning, the car would not turnover again - not even a click. I called roadside assistance again and they came out and connected a portable charger and it turned right over. I drove the car to the dealer and it continued to start without issue and they were unable to diagnose any problem. They did a parasitic draw test but the new battery continued to test as fully charged. They also checked the starter and it appeared to be functioning properly. I parked the car that evening and the next morning it wouldn't turnover - not even a click.
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2008 Hyundai Azera 3.8L V6 .... Purchased in 2009 with 11,000 miles.
In early November 2012, I experienced occasional episodes of a low brake pedal, which did not affect the stopping power of the vehicle. Most of the time, the car stops and behaves normally. However, once in a while, the brake pedal drops/travels farther than usual. (This is accompanied by a heart pumping, "I'm about to blow through this stop sign", moment.) I had a full brake inspection performed at my usual automotive repair shop. Nothing was found to be wrong with the system. Linings were 30% front, 90% rear (rears were done at one year prior, at 48,000 miles). Odometer at the time was 64,850.
I returned to the shop one week later with the same symptoms. Again the system was inspected, and nothing was found to be wrong. Decided to replace the master cylinder as the most logical explanation of the symptoms. Drove car successfully, without symptoms, for approximately 1,600 miles.
Recently, at 66,600 miles, the same problem has returned. Returned to the shop for additional brake inspection. No faults were found in the entire braking system. No stored ABS codes. No visible fluid leaks. Fluid is clean and full. Shop contacted local Hyundai service representative, who claims that this behavior is normal for this particular vehicle. Claims that as the ABS hydraulic pump cycles, the vehicle will feel like is has no brakes (but will stop properly.)
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Creaking dashboard on 2008 azera ... I bought silicone spray to try not sure if this will work.
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I have 2008 azera and the dash is creaking noise, I tried felt tape across the length of the dash still the noise, sounds like the windshield is flexing or the dash is flexing when I take off and driving any solutions don't tell me to turn up the volume on the radio.
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ON smooth highway at varying speeds I can hear a rhythmic bumping/thumping noise from the front end of our 2008 Limited with 26,000 miles. It is speed sensitive but I can't tell if it would be a wheel bearing going bad or tire noise from the stock Michelins or maybe one out of balance though I don't feel anything as much as I hear something. I guess I can take it to dealer to see if they can diagnose
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I have a 2008 with 21,000 miles on it, the arm rest has a completely worn down as if it has a 100,000 miles on it. Also I took car back to dealership because the rear speaker vibrates at the sound of music. I like this car but it doesnt seem to be built as well as the Sonata I had before it. more trips to the dealer.
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I got my 08 Azera Limited two weeks ago (it's a used vehicle, less than one year old with only 7,500 miles on it.... it's a Carmax car, but after the purchase I got it checked through by a dealer and everything seems to be fine. Interior looks and smells like new, 3 minor scratches in the paint which have been fixed... nothing else. considering i paid less than 20k, not a bad deal).
However, I noticed a few things (within the past two weeks):
1) power steering noise. When the engine is on (the car can be in park or drive) and I start moving the steering wheel (even if I move it only VERY slightly), I can hear a softly grinding/whining noise.... it occurs when i move the wheel right or left. when the car is moving faster than lets say 20mph ... you tend not to hear it because other noises (wind, street, engine) cover it up. But it's clearly there when you drive very slowly and it's quiet (parking garage etc).
The PS fluid is ok and i cannot detect any leaks. I assume the noise is a "noisy" PS pump or it's the pressure in the PS system which makes those whiny noises.
2) rattles. I read most of the rattles post here and I have to admit, that my 08 Azera has some rattles too. Nothing serious, but it shows that the Azera is not quite Lexus class.
The most annoying rattle i have is in the drivers door. it comes from the speaker area (the upper speaker in the drivers door) and something in there seems to rattle. It's most obvious when I go less than 60mph and the pavement/street is bad - there are vibrations in the car. unfortunately i don't think i can fix that rattle without opening the speaker cover or so. wonder if hyundai fixes rattles after the 12 month adjustment warranty??
The second rattle I have is the center speaker in the dashboard. if i go on vibrating pavement less than 40mph i can sometimes hear that speaker rattle... if i put the hand on it, it disappears for a while and then comes back again.... unfortunately roads here in texas do suck big time (concrete pavement patchwork with lots of holes....) and so I can hear that rattle a few times on my way to work.
The most annoying rattle came from the back seats but was in fact the tool box on the spare tire in the trunk. i turned that plastic piece on the spare tire a few degrees until it fit better and the rattle disappeared. if it comes up again i will try to put a blanket on top of the spare tire. it's interesting who much noise comes from the trunk into the main cabin.
I haven't had any suspension problems so far and I think the Azera suspension is quite stiff but very sporty. Back in Germany I had a 06 Audi A4 TDi as a company car and the A4 suspension was somewhat comparable to the Azera.
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