I've got a 2007 3.8 tg with about 46000mi on it and it will intermittently not start and only lights on the dash are the abs and esc lights on start up. Also will reset the clock and trip. the dealer has put in a new battery and immobilizer antenna, but the problem is still there, it was about 1k miles apart the last time it died after the battery replacement.
View 11 RepliesI own a 2006 Azera Limited. I've been experiencing intermittent problems starting it. It cranks fine but will not start? The battery is new.
View 1 RepliesI have an '07 Azera and the turn signal sound is intermittent. The signals flash normally, but sometime I hear the flasher sound inside the car and sometime it is dead silent. Cannot seem to correlate it to temperature or other factors. Any way, I assume as the lights flash with no sound that either the flash or the sound is electronically generated, but cannot be like an old school mechanical flasher. What makes the flasher sound in the Azera and where is it located?
View 1 RepliesJust got this Azera with 61K running after replacing front end body parts. This code (bank 2 sensor 1) came on. I reset the code and it came on in about 30 miles again. From my reading it seems this car has 4 O2 sensors.
View 3 RepliesBought a used 2007 Azera Limited last week. Yesterday, the car was parked outside and there were thunderstorms but I didn't hear the car alarm go off. Today, I was unable to get into my car. The locks wont open from the remote or using the key. Wonder whats wrong !
Even the emergency alarm (red button on the remote) won't work. I can see a red blinking light from the top of the dash that indicates that the car is locked.
I have a 2007 Azera with a sunroof problem. Went to open the sunroof and found out it would not slide back, it would only lift up in the back. Went to close it and it would lower some, but not all the way. It goes to lower but then there is a click in the mechanism and it won't close completely. Tried the manual close to no avail.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 Azera . About a week ago when I was going to sit in the car I noticed that driver seat leaned completely forward , I didn't pay attention to it and put it back but today When I was driving the the highway the driver seat suddenly started to leaning forward and push me in to the steering wheel, and the switch didn't work to put it back until It reach forward dead end . when I stopped the car and turn it off I could put it back with it's switch , also the seat memory's were erased . I happen 2 times in the highway then I decided to remove the seats fuse.
View 9 RepliesCar has 67k. It did this before when the car was under 50k. took it in , got it documented and they could find nothing. Last 3 days when I punch on the freeway to pass someone, the car goes in to neutral. Manually down shifting does not work. I had to pull to the side of the freeway today for a few minutes before it would engage. Felt like I was in a very dangerous situation.
View 7 RepliesI am having an issue with my 07 Hyundai Azera. The mechanics of tilting the mirror up and down seem to have stopped working. Side to side still works fine. What could be the issue? Looking for a diy of the removal?
View 4 RepliesMy 06 azera will not crank or start some times. I put the Key in and nothing happens. The lights and radio all the bells and whistles work but the car wont start or crank. I turn the key and nothing, just silence. I take the key out and wait for 2 to 5 minutes at most then the car starts. I have taken it to the dealer and because the problem will not replicate itself for them, they can not fix it.
View 4 RepliesCar power shuts off, can't start it, not even turning over, then 45 minutes later I can start car and all is functioning. I also noticed that the clock was off by 45 minutes...
View 2 RepliesI constantly hear 'tick, tick, tick' sound from the engine at start. Once the engine gets heat up, the sound disappears. I live in canada so it is still kinda cold in the morning. I didn't have this problem in the summer. the problem started in december when it gets really cold in canada. so i thought it might be an engine oil problem. I called the dealer to ask what kind of engine oil they use for my azera, ans they said they just use a regular engine oil with viscosity of 10w-20. However when I check the manual, viscosity of 5w-30 is recommended. I know engine oil with viscosity of 5w-30 is thinner than the one with 10-20w and therefore easy for the engine to get heat up and better protection at start in the winter. What viscosity engine oil do you use for you azera? Will using synthetic engine oil useful??
View 17 RepliesI have a 2007 Azera with a 3.8 engine. It has 16000 miles without any problems. There is a clicking noise coming from the engine compartment when accelerating. The noise only occurs when the engine is cold and seems to be more pronounced when accelerating quickly. I do not hear it when the car is idling.
View 2 RepliesRough start like some thing missing, check engine light came on, shut off car checked my oil, ok, restart runs smooth but check engine light stays on, went to dealer 8 mile drive, car ran fine ????
View 12 Replies2008 Azera with 90K miles won't start or crank. Unhooked battery and hooked it back up--no joy. No lights on the dash--absolute silence when turning the key. Doors and trunk won't auto-unlock. Can't get it into neutral to move it so I can try to jump it. Almost like it has some kind of kill switch.
View 1 RepliesMy 2006 Azara has had a no start problem since about a year after we bough it new. The condition is intermittent and is not dependent on outside temperature, humidity or other conditions, It happens when the engine is cold or hot. Sometimes the problem goes away for a week or so then it comes back. It happens with either key.
The engine cranks over but does not start. Usually resolve it by sitting for 10 - 15 seconds then trying again. Sometimes have to do this two or three times before it fires. All other electrical items work ok and the battery has no problem powering accessories. I've had it into the dealer however because it is difficult to replicate, they have a hard time repairing the problem. The first time they neutralized the immobilizer and re-programmed it. The second time, I got a check engine light and they replaced the immobilizer. But the problem continues.
I recently purchased a 2006 Hyundai Azera which has developed a rattling sound upon cold start up. Based on service bulletin 06-20-002 I believe the issue is with the timing chain tensioners. I am looking at getting a DNJ TK147 timing set kit to replace them with. Do this kit contains the updated tensioners? It is located on rockauto.
View 4 Replies2007 with 3.3L at 30k miles (bought new and with regular oil changes) starting throwing p0018's intermittently. No noticeable difference in way the car drives: idle seems fairly normal (only once recently felt the idle briefly stumble at a red light), fuel consumption regular, no power problems. There has been a engine tapping sound at low speeds only heard until the engine warms up after a couple of miles (I'm in Florida, temp is regular in the 70-80's), and the sound is not evident during the start-up, only while accelerating slowly.
On occasion, with hard acceleration, the "ESC 0ff" light comes on, not affected by the ESC off switch, and stays off after one key turn.
Brought to Hyundai dealer who, same day, requested doing an oil/filter change (Firestone had done a change 900 miles/3 months prior) claiming that a wrong oil filter could cause blocked oil galleys. They did the change (and also, no charge, repaired a valve cover leak) and 6 days later called to tell me the car was fine. No mention of the car having been low on oil or evidence of sludging. Also, no mention of whether or not the filter that was replaced was the incorrect filter for the vehicle. (I called Firestone and they claim they regular work with Hyundai to ensure proper filters are used). No mention of why they kept the car for an additional 5 days after the oil change before calling either (except for repairing the valve cover leak with a rocker cover gasket), and although their invoice indicated that they drove the car 5 miles, it was evident from the invoice that the mile in/miles out were the same. I did notice that there was about 2-3 gallons of fuel consumption though when I picked the car up.
6 miles from the dealer after pickup (2 key turns) CEL returns, with same code. I have now driven the car about 100 miles in the last 20 days with the CEl going off and on 4 times now, and each time the same code. I have never had the CEL come on (or go off) while driving, only at start-up. (Longest trip has been 10 miles, top speed 50mph, so a lot of key turns). The longest the CEL has stayed off was for a 30 mile span. The tapping sound mentioned above continues too.
I'm hesitating returning to the dealer. The 10 yr warranty might be a problem for a variety of reasons, and I realise finding the fix for this code could get expensive. But I do want to know what the dealer found out doing their GDS (and via eyes on inspection) and nothing was mentioned on the invoice besides the gasket leak. I'm especially concerned about the timing chain and tensioner.
Is it acceptable to make an appointment with the service manager to find out what they ruled out (and then take that information to a regular mechanic)? Given the problem is regularly intermittent over the last 100 miles, is it still possible that something might be seriously wrong with the engine and damage might be done to the engine by driving it? When I first brought the car to the dealer, they said they couldn't do anything with it because the CEL had gone out. Fortunately, within a mile from the dealer the CEL returned and they took it in. Presently, the light is out again.
My 2007 Chevy Colorado has an intermittent problem with starting up. It will try to start and labor and without touching the key, it tries to start itself again. If I wait 15 minutes, it starts just fine. Someone said it was maybe the passlock ignition switch or passlock senior, and to fix it the passlock sensor would need to be bypassed.
View 5 RepliesI have 2007 Santa Fe LTD which will intermittently not start. All electrical devices work fine but when you turn the key the starter will not engage. Keep trying the key and after 5-10-100 try's the car will start. The next time it may start on the first attempt or it might not. Sometimes it will go weeks without a problem then it will not start again. I have checked the starter relay, battery, and cables. It seems like the alarm is faulty and not letting the power get to the starter.
View 16 RepliesFor the past year I have had intermittent start issues with my LS that occur about 15 percent of the time. Ambient or engine temperature do not make a difference. Sometimes the starter engages but then disengages right away. I then need to depress the start button an additional time or two before it actually starts. At other times the starter engages and continues cranking while the engine sounds like it is trying to start (like it is just barely keeping ahead of the starter speed). That carries on for several seconds and then it starts. Nothing shows on diagnostics and the dealer says I am going to have to wait until there is a complete "no start" before they can trouble shoot. There was a similar issue with earlier 460 models but the Lexus service tech said that problem does not apply to the 2011's. It seems there is a lack of fuel delivery but from what point? And why only intermittent and momentary?
View 6 Replies