My 06 azera will not crank or start some times. I put the Key in and nothing happens. The lights and radio all the bells and whistles work but the car wont start or crank. I turn the key and nothing, just silence. I take the key out and wait for 2 to 5 minutes at most then the car starts. I have taken it to the dealer and because the problem will not replicate itself for them, they can not fix it.
View 4 RepliesI own a 2006 Azera Limited. I've been experiencing intermittent problems starting it. It cranks fine but will not start? The battery is new.
View 1 RepliesI've got a 2007 3.8 tg with about 46000mi on it and it will intermittently not start and only lights on the dash are the abs and esc lights on start up. Also will reset the clock and trip. the dealer has put in a new battery and immobilizer antenna, but the problem is still there, it was about 1k miles apart the last time it died after the battery replacement.
View 11 RepliesCar power shuts off, can't start it, not even turning over, then 45 minutes later I can start car and all is functioning. I also noticed that the clock was off by 45 minutes...
View 2 RepliesI constantly hear 'tick, tick, tick' sound from the engine at start. Once the engine gets heat up, the sound disappears. I live in canada so it is still kinda cold in the morning. I didn't have this problem in the summer. the problem started in december when it gets really cold in canada. so i thought it might be an engine oil problem. I called the dealer to ask what kind of engine oil they use for my azera, ans they said they just use a regular engine oil with viscosity of 10w-20. However when I check the manual, viscosity of 5w-30 is recommended. I know engine oil with viscosity of 5w-30 is thinner than the one with 10-20w and therefore easy for the engine to get heat up and better protection at start in the winter. What viscosity engine oil do you use for you azera? Will using synthetic engine oil useful??
View 17 RepliesRough start like some thing missing, check engine light came on, shut off car checked my oil, ok, restart runs smooth but check engine light stays on, went to dealer 8 mile drive, car ran fine ????
View 12 Replies2008 Azera with 90K miles won't start or crank. Unhooked battery and hooked it back up--no joy. No lights on the dash--absolute silence when turning the key. Doors and trunk won't auto-unlock. Can't get it into neutral to move it so I can try to jump it. Almost like it has some kind of kill switch.
View 1 RepliesMy 2006 Azara has had a no start problem since about a year after we bough it new. The condition is intermittent and is not dependent on outside temperature, humidity or other conditions, It happens when the engine is cold or hot. Sometimes the problem goes away for a week or so then it comes back. It happens with either key.
The engine cranks over but does not start. Usually resolve it by sitting for 10 - 15 seconds then trying again. Sometimes have to do this two or three times before it fires. All other electrical items work ok and the battery has no problem powering accessories. I've had it into the dealer however because it is difficult to replicate, they have a hard time repairing the problem. The first time they neutralized the immobilizer and re-programmed it. The second time, I got a check engine light and they replaced the immobilizer. But the problem continues.
I recently purchased a 2006 Hyundai Azera which has developed a rattling sound upon cold start up. Based on service bulletin 06-20-002 I believe the issue is with the timing chain tensioners. I am looking at getting a DNJ TK147 timing set kit to replace them with. Do this kit contains the updated tensioners? It is located on rockauto.
View 4 Replies2006 Toyota tundra starting problem only intermittently, id say about half the time recently it does this. Ill go to crank my truck, turn the key over and it makes a loud CLICK/thud under the hood. Lights go dim, clock shuts off etc. Turn the key off and back on, CLICK. I have to repeat this 3-4 times before starting sometimes. And once or twice the starter would turn over for 3-4 seconds before finally firing up. Ive check the battery and alternator at the local auto zone and a local dealership, both checked out fine. The starter is under the intake manifold. I have checked grounds/connections etc but dont see problem.
View 3 RepliesSo I've been trying to get rid of the check engine light recently so I can get the car inspected. The car has about 130,000 miles. I was having problems with the car intermittently misfiring, and burning a lot of oil on start up. Also the car still had the original timing belt up until this time so I decided to change the valve seals and timing belt. I couldn't get the timing right so I took it to a mechanic and he got the car running like it was before I took it apart, although I don't think he changed the timing between the camshafts. The check engine light stayed on with p0016 as the code. The car accelerated poorly, but otherwise drove fine. I tried changing the camshaft sensor, and cleaning the OCV but that didn't work. So today I looked at the timing between the two camshafts and moved the intake cam over by one tooth which got rid of the p0016 code! Unfortunately the car decided to replace that with the p0340 code. I didn't notice any damage to the pins on the sensor. It seems to stumble for a bit after start, and when releasing the gas after revving the engine, but otherwise idles okay. I have yet to road test it.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2006 Ford Expedition with 95,000 miles that has a crank but intermittent no start problem. When it does happen, it will eventually start after one to two tries. I don't have to wait to start it again and I don't have any problems while it is running. Two or three times in the past two months it will sputter out and die (even though I am pressing the gas pedal) right after starting. I'll crank it again and it starts just fine. I have no problems while driving at freeway speeds or around town.
I never had any check engine lights come on so I replaced the battery and the fuel filter. I finally got two codes and replaced the fuel pump driver module and the fuel rail pressure sensor. The codes went off after replacing these two parts. I can hear my fuel pump turn on every time I start the vehicle. I have even taken the entire fuse panel apart to check Relay 303 which is soldered into the circuit board. It is fine and so is every other fuse in the panel.
Our Honda Odyssey will have an occasional delayed start where you turn the key but no sound occurs. All the lights come on like normal and the automatic doors can all close and open without any issues. Originally we didn't know that we could eventually get the car to start by turning and holding the key in the start position. It happens every couple days to couple weeks and without holding the key in the on position it will be anywhere from 30 minutes to 3 days before the car will start normally again. We've spent about $1,000 at the Honda dealer to have the battery, battery cables, starter, and starter relay replaced but we're still having the problem.
View 2 RepliesStarted having some crank no starts intermittently. Scanned and found codes for cam sensor. so I was in a pinch and a hurry on a sunday so I picked up a BWD brand cam sensor from parts store and installed. I have not seen this issue since but started noticing other thing going on. I noticed a few weeks ago my truck was starting a little strange. as it would spin over before firing off, it didn't sound right. I couldn't pinpoint if it was due to slightly low compression on one cylinder or one cylinder had a little fuel or oil in it and that one cylinder was actually firing while cranking over.
I also was noticing a little longer crank times than normal. didn't matter if engine was cold or hot. sometimes would fire up quick and sometimes it took a few seconds. most of the time I couldn't catch it on my scanegauge if the ICP was low due to the lag on the scangauge.
Well one day on my way home from work (50 miles one way) I stopped about half way to fuel up. after filling up and attempted to restart the truck it really acted like it didn't want to start but did after cranking for about at least 10 seconds and started rough. and of corse my scangauge decied to hate me this day because it would show any data until I unplugged it and plugged it back in. so started home. felt like it had a very very light miss on the way home. when I slowed down to turn onto my road the truck died. took forever to get it to start back up. this time the scangauge was reading and I could see ICP was between 300-400 and IPR was 85%. so low pressure and not reaching the 600 needed to fire. once it started I limped it home. scaned it with my Auto Enginuity and it didn't show any codes.
So that much I can see I have a leak on the HPO system. but I done a lot of work to the truck about 2-3 years ago. roughly 80k-100k miles since the work. what I done included...
OEM oil cooler
OEM (updated)dummy plugs, standpipes & STC fitting
OEM head gaskets and ARP studs
BPD EGR cooler (I should have deleted)
ALL other engine gaskets(Bed plate, oilpan, front&rear cover, ect.)
OEM glow plugs and harness
OEM blue spring upgrade
Cleaned turbo veins
2 OEM REMAN injectors. (cant remember which two) had contribution codes one on each side.
This is all I can remember right now. Now have yall seen the updated dummy plugs and standpipes leak? I have not pulled valve covers to air test the HPO system yet.(don't have my air compressor at my new house yet). Here is what I have done so far:
Fully charged batteries.
I did do a bubble test. pulled upper fuel filter cover off and removed filter topped the bowl off and turned engine over using the wire by the passenger side battery. some bubbles but not a bubble bath.
Checked fuel pressure (not running) its 60psi. did not start truck because I need a different fitting so I can run the truck and check pressure while running.
while doing the bubble test I could hear that one cylinder is low on compression. but I do not have any misfire or contribution codes.
when I ran contribution test on AE its not showing any particular cylinder lower than the rest. but the line is not very solid at all.
Here is what I plan to do.
Compression test on each cylinder.
Looking at the Harbor freight kit. Looks like it has fittings for glow plug and injector holes.
If I can do compression test on both glow plug and injector holes this should show weather my injector orings are the cause of the low compression.
Then I have to airtest the HPO system and find the leak.
Am I on the right track? what else should I check? Guess I should add that the truck currently has 297K miles.
My Oil Filler Cap won't come off...it just makes clicking noises when I turn it....I've been told Ill have to break it off somehow.....I can't do an oil change until I solve this problem..it is a 2006 Azera....
View 1 RepliesMy 2007 Azera alarm keeps going off for no reason at all. How do I fix or unplug the alarm system?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 Azera. H&R lowering springs. I just replaced the front struts but they are not stiff enough to stop some of the bounce. Any stiffer aftermarket strut that I could use to stiffen the front end?
View 2 RepliesSeveral months back the maintenance guys at the local dealreship somehow managed to screw the AC compressor which was covered by the warranty and replaced with new one (or so they say). Ever since then the engine noise becomes louder and more audible when I switch the AC.
A simple experiment to compare - let your car slowly crawl (1st gear or D) with your foot off the accelerator and try to make a difference with the AC on and off. When I do this I can clearly hear louder noise from the engine compartment as if the motor is significantly loaded.
I purchased my Azera 5 years ago and it now has 44,xxx miles in it. The car runs well and everything works on it but I am now on my second set of tires!
The car came with Michelin tires and at about 25k they were extremely noisy. Investigation revealed the tires were scalloped and not wearing properly. At that point I had an alignment done. At 35k I had the alignment checked and found that it was 'out' and had the alignment done again.
At 43k I replaced the tires with Continentil Tires and the tires were balanced and the alignment was done. This alignment was 'guaranteed' for 6 months and I returned prior to the 6 month expiration for an alignment check and found it was 'out' and the shop corected the alignment. This correction was needed after only 1,000 mi!!
So here I am - 6 yrs of use with 44k accumulated and 4 alignments
The tire shop is well regarded in the area so I think their work is competent and we have reasonably good streets and we have not hit any curbs so where does the problem lie?
The Sonata (v-6) that I had before was only aligned once when new tires were installed and the Mercedes cars I owned before that I don't think were ever aligned.
I noticed some time ago that engine is making a sound like smth. is spinning very fast (gyrscope? mass wheel?) That happens when it is idle or drives slow, when I accelerate the sound disappear. The sound is hearable inside and outside of the car.
View 5 RepliesI've driven 06 Azera 3.8 80,000 miles now.
When idling or stopping at red light, the rpm slightly and continuously goes up and down. (+/- 50 rpm)
Which part is a problem and how to fix it?