Rough idle whenever you are not in motion. It is very obvious, and a little frustrating as my previous 5 cars never had this issue. I love the car, but the vibration is driving me a little crazy. When the car is in park, and you lean on the outside of the car it is also vibrating heavily. I hate to have them start taking things apart when there is less then a 1000 miles on the clock.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2006 azera limited with about 63k miles on it and I noticed in the owners manual that at 60k I should have the valve clearance checked and adjusted if theres vibration or rough idle. I currently have a rough idle and more vibration from the engine.
View 1 RepliesMy 2007 with 73k has started to idle rough at traffic lights. Not horrible, but a noticeable vibration. Rpm's are around 500. If I put it in neutral, rmps go up to about 800 and idle gets better. What could cause a rough idle like this?
View 14 RepliesI just took delivery of a 2015 pewter gray base azera. It is my second one as I purchased a leftover 2013 last year. The sonatas had to go just not comfortable enough for me. Between 1000-1500 rpm whether in motion or in park I get a sound like an owl hooting. my 2013 does not do it.i can make it do it any time I want. This is really annoying in traffic it actually can be heard with the radio on. the dealer said it is normal and let me drive another new one on a test drive and it does it too. Almost sounds like it could be a harmonic noise in the intake or exhaust. Going to see if I can pinpoint it this weekend. I am very disappointed as my 2013 has 36k on it and other than the rattle at start up no issues.
View 2 RepliesIs there a way to resume cruise control once it is stopped by braking or hitting the cruise button? My other vehicle saves it so that it can be resumed but I don't see this option in the Azera and have to set it up again every time.
View 2 RepliesWhen I'm slowing down, usually about 35 mph which i think is going from 3rd to 2nd gear, there is a noticeable rough down shift. Nothing horrible, but definitely much more noticeable than the shifting of all the other gears.
View 11 RepliesI've been experiencing a regular feeling of the engine "missing" in my seat when in Drive, stopped at a light. I listen carefully and it just doesn't sound super smooth like my wife's Acura. The Acura has over 160k miles on it...so getting this from a new car is worrisome. The vibration is in the seat and steering wheel.
I tried different gas, higher octane, different brands - no change.
2013 Azera with 7k on it. Problem started at about 1500. Coming to a complete stop, the rpm return to normal idle (700rpm). A few seconds later, the rpm drops to 500 and the car shakes. Feels like the car is about to stall. About a second of 2 later, the rpms return back to normal idle (700). The car has been to the dealer 4 times and they cant find the issue. And now they are telling me that it is normal. I drove a brand new Azera with service manager and it was not doing the idle drop. Search youtube for "azera 3" with the same screen name as here.
View 65 RepliesMy car was parked for 5 days. When I next started it there was no response when I depressed the gas pedal--car remained in a rough idle. Had to restart the car three times before it worked but check engine light has not gone off.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 azera limited 63k miles on it and I'm getting a rough idle that sounds worse when the weather is cold. also when I press the gas there is hesitation from the car to accelerate. on top of that, I feel vibrations from the engine all through the driver and passenger seat. When I turn the car on it idles at 1300-1500 rpm and takes about 5-7 minutes to come down. when it does , it idles at 650 rpm. I'm not getting any check engine lights or codes. I've replaced spark plugs, air filter, had the air induction service done at the dealership, and had to have Hyundai put on a new throttle body last march when it gave out on me while at work. the dealership doesn't know what it is and said to use a fuel additive when I fill up the tank. I have and am waiting to see if that does anything. I put in a bottle of CRC 1 Tank fuel system cleaner 2 days ago. I've even changed my brand of gas from exxon to bp just in case. I think it may be a bad hose for the idle and a bad motor mount for the vibration. Could an O2 sensor be going bad?
View 1 RepliesI have just bought a Hyundai Azera 2013 28,000 miles on it. The car is under warranty. I notice not a lot but a good amount of white smoke when I start it in the morning. If it is a warm day I don't see the smoke again. But if is cold weather or a rainy day I see while smoke come out at idle continuously, even after the engine is warm ! I have not noticed that with my Camry or Honda CRV anything like this. I am wondering if it is anything to do with GDI engine ?
I took it to the dealer and they said they could not reproduce the problem. They did multi points checks and everything is ok. Also , I have checked the Carfax report. Looks like the previous owner , who leased the car, did not do all required maintenance except oil changes. I bought the car as CPO .
2004 Santa Fe 3.5 has started idling rough when in park or when stopped and in drive. When I'm actually driving, it runs smooth and doesn't seem to have any issues or hesitation. I tested my EGR valve with a vacuum pump and it held 7Hg of vacuum and did not leak. I think that indicates it is working still?
I think my issue may be the EGR Solenoid, but I'm not sure how to test it. When I remove the Green hose from the Throttle Body, there is a good vacuum coming from it and my car speeds the idle up and seems to run smoother. I think that means there's some kind of blockage? When I have the Solenoid off, you can blow through it, which I think means it is open.
I think I have to replace the Solenoid, but didn't want to just buy parts.
2011 accent gs. We purchased the car brand new and it currently has roughly 32k miles on it. About a month ago the car started to misfire at an idle (in park and in gear stopped at a light, etc.). At this time, I purchased a new air filter, and a new set of autolite platinum plugs. Roughly 3 weeks later it started misfiring again. After a few internet searches it seemed as though some people don't like autolite platinum plugs. At this point I purchased a fresh set of NGK iridium ix plugs and figured that'd be the end of it. I test drove the car for almost an hour myself (the same night I repaired it) with no issue. On my wife's commute the very next morning it acted up again.
We took it to the dealer this morning, and I honestly don't believe what they're telling me. They are insisting the problem is with spark plugs. They say that the manufacturer recommends copper plugs only, and that would be step 1 of their diagnosis/repair which they want $130 for. At this point I declined their service, and they'll let me put copper plugs back in. They said that if it continues to act up to bring it back in after that. Ah yes, and during this whole time there has never been a check engine light.
I am trying to solve a mystery on my mom's truck. It's an '06 4.2L F-150 STX with about 133k miles. It had a check engine light on until today- I cleaned the TB and changed air filter yesterday, and both were filthy. Code vanished later on while driving.
I want to check the PCV because the truck idles high and rough in any setting from park to OD, stopped or moving. Worse when stopped though. Entire coil pack has already been changed due to previous misfire problems. This feels similar to a misfire but without the acceleration hesitation. It has also had a recent oil change, and fuel/oil filter change as well.
There is only one hose connecting to the intake on this truck, and it appears to be a vapor line of some sort to the valve cover, but isn't a PCV cause it's just a hollow tube. There is nothing else coming out of the TB at all, except for the throttle control cable. I don't even seen any nipples or connections or holes where a PCV hose or valve should go. I thought it was on the passenger side, under the TB... but there is nothing here at all. I'm stumped.
I am beginning to think the truck just does not have one at all, which I know for a fact is impossible. I have traced every line on this motor from top to bottom, and I do not see it. Should have a heater on it I assume? What else can make the truck so rough? I don't buy it that "it's just that way". That is complete, lazy, BS. I have had/driven many trucks; 4x4s, supercrew, diesels, jeeps, dump trucks... I have NEVER had a truck run as badly and roughly as this one does. Heck, a twin-turbo 700HP diesel doesn't run this roughly.
As of late, my 06 Camry (I4) idle's real rough @ 600 rpms when in park. It stays the same in drive with the A/C on. However, when I switch the A/C off, for about 2 secs, the idle will be smooth before dropping down in rpms. Some folks have said this is normal, but I've had this happened to my car before. I've got 135K on it so I'm guess a tune up is in order.
I'm new in the game of working on my car myself since a past issue with the dealer on my '06. So if all is needed is a tune up, I can do that myself with the parts of my choice.
2007 Sonata V6 with 72K miles.
The car has developed a rough idle while in gear (i.e. when stopped at a stop light) and park (i.e. after I start the car).
It's starting to get a little annoying since I'm used to a very smooth idle.
I think this issue started within the last 2-3k miles.
Plugs were allegedly changed at 30k. A full tuneup was done at that time.
Wires are still original.
An injector stuck open on my 05 5.4 and bent a rod. I had a new rod put in and all new revised Motorccraft injectors. This was about a month ago. Truck has ran great for the past 3 weeks until today I put it in park and it idles real rough, put it in gear and it smooth as butter again? (Once in a rare while it will continue to idle rough in gear for a few seconds but then clears up.) New motorcraft plugs were put in right before it bent the rod. The truck runs real strong other wise. I am about done with ford this pickup has been the biggest pile I've ever owned one thing after another and just when I think its fixed its some other stupid problem. I'll start by cleaning the maf and throttle body. Could it be a bad coil?
View 3 Replieswhat would cause a pulsating rough idle when in park with the defrost or a/c on? when I turn it off or to any other position it's fine even when I turn if off it's fine as well? there is no Check Engine Light showing at this point.
View 7 RepliesMy truck has a similar rough idle and I decided to investigate. What my plug gap was supposed to be as I didn't have access to my owners manual at the time. The specs I was given (.041-.047) is what I followed and recapped my plugs .045. The idle improved a great deal.
Now I was wondering and finally got around to checking my owners manual after I read somewhere that the gap for the 5.0 changed between 12 and 13 model years. What I found in my owners manual is that the gap I'm supposed to have is from .049-.053. My plugs were out anyway at .057. I will leave them be at .045 but am wondering why the change from .041-.047 on the 2011 model years to .049-.053 on the 2012+ model years? I assume the engine hasn't changed, so am curious of the thought process.
My 99 7.3 has had a vibration / shake in cab as you rev up while in park in neutral around 1000 RPM -1700 mostly. Around 1500-1600 is the worst. At idle it seems fine and what you would expect from a 7.3 but then as you give it higher idle, it starts shaking cab and you can physically see seats start shaking and it all feels rough. It also translates to a vibration while driving in those RPMS down the road... It has new injectors, transmission/ torque converter, HPOP, exhaust and a whole lot more.......
View 4 RepliesJust got my 2015 manual Golf GTI last Monday. The car has been great (except for the dealer leaving in the shipping pucks in the struts) and a lot of fun to drive. Over the past week I've noticed that when stopped and idling the engine vibrates every so often. Just like a light flutter. You can feel it in the pedal and kind of on the floor. This happens with the clutch engaged or not. Stopped at a light etc. Just wondering what would be the cause. I thought maybe bad gas that the dealer filled it up with. I just filled up with new gas a couple hrs ago. Maybe coil packs? When driving I have full power and it feels completely normal. Just that slight flutter every few seconds at idle.
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