When parking on a severe incline, it's hard to put the car into reverse and there's a clank from underneath. It's not a smooth transition. Is this normal?
View 11 RepliesIs there a way to disable either the driver or both driver/passenger side auto tilting outside mirrors when in reverse gear?
View 3 RepliesBought a 2012 Azera a couple of weeks ago. When the engine is cold and I shift into reverse there's a loud bang and the whole car shakes. Feels as if I've been run into, or the transmission is going to fall out. I have also noticed some delayed upshifting (doesn't accelerate for a second but then really takes off). My 2007 Sonata did that a little, so I thought maybe it was a Hyundai thing, but maybe not.
My main concern is the BANG into reverse. The dealer said they can't get me in for several days, and that they don't have loaners, but they "might" be able to get me something to drive while they look at it. Honestly, the service guy sounded skeptical, and I guess I imagined a little better/faster response for such a new car. I'm almost afraid to drive it right now, the bang is so violent.
I'm pretty upset about this, it's my first really nice car. Has some sort of transmission issue with a new Hyundai? Anything in particular I should look for, say, etc.?
I have a 2011 GTI with ~23k miles on it, manual trans. Bought it CPO this year. Recently, I have had an extremely hard time getting the car into either reverse or first. It only happens randomly. It often takes a few times to finally get it to click. Other times I think it is in gear only to let off the clutch and hear the gears grind.
Next, when it is cold, it is squeaking when I lift off the clutch just before the gear engages. Again, it is totally random. It may go an entire week without doing it, and then one day start.
I have read all over these forums that this is likely a linkage issue with the difficulty shifting and a TOB issue with the squeaking on the clutch liftoff.
I am taking the car into the dealer tomorrow (still under CPO warranty). I called a local, and extremely well respected, Euro repair shop and he said it sounded like a classic pilot brushing problem. When I looked online, it says that the manual GTIs don't have pilot brushings... Is this correct?
Additionally, what do I need to expect from the dealer? I've read horror stories about the dealers tearing down the clutch (~10hr job) to get inside and replace something only to say that there is "wear and tear" and that the job isn't covered under warranty. Additionally, I know I won't be able to replicate the sound tomorrow when I bring it in. Nor will I be able to replicate the difficulty getting the car into gear. Short of leaving the car with them for 3 weeks and having them try it every few hours, they won't see what I am talking about.
My question at this point is, does a bad TOB cause any long term problems, or is it just an occasional annoyance with the sound? And what specifically should I tell the dealer about the difficulty shifting to get them to do something about it?
2007 Rabbit shakes quite hard when i accelerate mainly on any type of incline and only between 35-60 mph. When i take it to the shop they cant find a problem.
View 3 Replies2011, 69,000 miles. My truck is experiencing very hard shifts from park to drive or park to reverse after a cold soak. It goes away once warmed up. I can't find any excessive driveline play and my transmission fluid level appears fine and in good condition.
The last repair done on my truck was around 7,000 miles ago and it was for a transmission fluid leak around the bell housing. They just replaced the seal between the torque converter and transmission.
I've got a noise in the front end of my GLS (52K miles). It's kind of hard to make it happen, but I hear it 2-3 times a day. It doesn't usually happen hitting a bump, but is usually heard when the weight of the vehicle shifts, when there's a sudden incline or drop, like when pulling into a driveway or gas station.
I had a car with a motor mount issue once, which sounded similar. However, I actually had my motor swapped 5K ago, and my noise existed before that.
I have to get to the dealer (I believe 60K is the end of coverage for this kind of thing). I would like to have a little more info or suggestion of what to check, otherwise it will be "we don't hear anything."
2000 F150 Lariat, XC, 2WD, 5.4L, 4R70W
I don't know if this all started right after I got back from towing a 3500# lathe + 2000# trailer back from Texas a couple weeks ago or if there might have been some slight symptoms before. I do know that this really got bad a couple days ago and I haven't driven the truck since then.
So, here's what is happening. I noticed a few days before that when I would back out of a parking space, the truck didn't seem to go right into reverse. It was as if it was in neutral, but as I was reaching to jiggle the gearshift lever, it would engage and I could back out just fine. All forward gears, and shifting, have been fine all along, including lockup. I kind of wondered if the shift linkage had somehow moved and was on the edge of being in the right spot, so I was going to have a look at it one evening soon. Then a couple days ago, I went to back out of a parking spot at work and it wouldn't go anywhere.
Just acted like it was in neutral. Put it in drive and it engaged just fine, then back to reverse and nothing for a few moments before it finally engaged. Then, as I was backing up, it acted like you might expect a limited slip that was not slipping to behave. But, that was right before I put it in drive and went home. After I got home, I tried it out some more and found that in reverse, it just wouldn't go anywhere unless the truck rolled a little bit. I don't know if the rolling really had anything to do with it or not, but the driveway is on a slight incline, so it happened, and then the transmission would engage. But, when it did start to back up, even straight, at first it acted like it was under a load, then when it started to move, it bucked really badly. Put it back in drive and all seems fine.
There are no codes set. Trans fluid is full, and doesn't smell or look bad. I've searched for reverse shudder, and other stuff, and there are threads about the TC, about no reverse at all, and a bunch of other stuff, but nothing like this that I found.
I have a 2006 Hyundai Azera Limited, 3.8 with 5 speed automatic; car has 139K miles. I am noticing a small 'click' noise when putting the transmission in Drive or Reverse, and sometimes when accelerating from a dead stop. Car otherwise drives beautifully - the 'click' doesn't seem to affect driving it. The CV's don't make a clatter if accelerating at full wheel lock, which is usually the tell-tale for bad CV's. Is this something simple? My thoughts are:
1.) Somehow it's a CV joint. Grayson Hyundai said they're 'shot' but I think I would notice more than a brief click? They said a whole bunch of other things were wrong on their 'inspection', said the brakes were 'shot' because the rotors had rust on them... I don't trust that opinion.
2.) A motor mount or transmission mount. Seems more likely since would be most noticeable with torque.
3.) Something in the suspension. The car has new tie rod ends, but there may be something else worn/loose that I'm not aware of.
4.) Maybe I am just being too picky. The car drives awesome!
Maybe I'm overreacting, I just don't want some sort of catastrophic failure to occur.. The car still feels very robust, solid, and overall quite healthy..
Key Hard To Get In ignition switch, What Lub Should I Use?
View 2 RepliesSo, I bought an used 2006 Hyundai Azera Limited few days ago. It's clean title and has 86k miles on it now.
After three days from the purchase date, my car starts causing transmission problems, hard shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear only. It's getting worse now...
Now, what should I do? ...
Traded my 06 Sonata for a used 2012 Azera Tech last month
White with chestnut, 23k miles. Went 12 rounds with the dealer . We finally came to an agreement.
Only one complaint with it. The steering is lousy. Feels numb, wanders, constant attention needed. Very tiring.
Wanted an Azera when I bought the Sonata, but price to much. So while I'm disappointed with the handling, (even the wife noticed the steering ) the rest of the car lives up to expectations.
I started my car last evening and it hesitated and balked and the check engine light came on. It started fine this morning, but would not go above 30mph even with accelerator down all the way. I checked the diagnostic codes from Bluelink and it said there is a possible condition with my Engine Control System and should be checked soon. The car only has 4,000 miles and has been fine until now.
View 5 RepliesOn my 2006 Azera Limited with about 27,000 miles on it. Occasional hard shift issue. Normally the car is only driven 10 miles a day to and from work no problem. But on longer trips have hard a few instances of hard shift.
The first time this hard shift bump occurred was when I was driving on city streets 2 minutes after getting off the freeway after a 2 hour drive. On a scale of 1-10 this was a #5 bump like feel followed by a #3 bump in the next few minutes while accelerating from a signal light. There were no further bumps that day, even after another 2 freeway drive.
The second time the #3 bump happened was on an on ramp after a 3 hour freeway drive and a short rest stop. No further bumps that day even after another 3 hour freeway drive.
The last time this #3 bump happened was on a city street after a 45 minute freeway drive. No further bumps on the return trip. I am not sure which gears this bump happens between.
I have no MIL set. So I took it too a transmission shop and they could not find anything wrong but said there was a code C1616 CAN Bus Off Failure. His opinion was that this problem maybe an electrical issue.
I've had my '12 Azera for about 6 weeks. One issue with the car is the inside of the windshield on the driver's side won't stay clean. I can clean it and the next day it has a film on it. The longer I leave it, the bigger the area gets. I've tried all different types of cleaners with no better results. I had a GM car that did this, was told it was from the gases escaping the plastic molding inside the car near the windshield. The Azera doesn't have that. I'm puzzled why it's doing it and how to stop it.
View 18 RepliesEvery time I start my 2013 Azera there is a rattling of the valves like there is no oil in the top end. I have heard other owners complaining about this so I asked my dealer when I went in for an oil change. The last three changes I have asked and he told me the same thing, there is nothing being reported. So I got my oil changed and went home. Parked the car for 6.5 ~ 7 hours and when I started it up the sound was louder than ever. I called the dealer back and told them. They asked me to leave it overnight so they could hear the noise for them selves. I dropped the car off that evening.
I got a call the first thing in the morning and they said that their tech did hear something and they were going to test it again in two hours and call me back. They called back and said they believed it was the CAM phasers. They gave me the car back while they ordered parts and rounded up a loaner. I dropped it off on Thursday.
Two weeks later (today) I picked the car up. Here is what they did. It turned out to be the CAM Phasers so when they got in there they also had to replace the CAM shafts (All 4) as well. I am sure there was more going on than what they told me, after all they had the car for two full weeks!
Is there a way to remove the prompt on the map display on engine start?
View 15 RepliesI wonder if our Azeras automatically reset an AMPG on a trip computer after each fill ups like Sonata does?
View 8 RepliesWhen my car sits for a few hours and it starts the engine is very noisy and rattily, for a second or so. One of my coworkers heard it the other day and made a comment. Oil is changed every 4000 miles, level is good. This is consistent and does it every time it sits for a while then starts.
View 39 RepliesNoticed when A/C is on, the fan speed suddenly turns up (i.g. 3bars to 4bars), especially during recirculate mode.
The Auto button is set OFF (on the middle circle knob). Is this a defect?
2013 Azera with 7k on it. Problem started at about 1500. Coming to a complete stop, the rpm return to normal idle (700rpm). A few seconds later, the rpm drops to 500 and the car shakes. Feels like the car is about to stall. About a second of 2 later, the rpms return back to normal idle (700). The car has been to the dealer 4 times and they cant find the issue. And now they are telling me that it is normal. I drove a brand new Azera with service manager and it was not doing the idle drop. Search youtube for "azera 3" with the same screen name as here.
View 65 Replies