Just purchased 2013 Azera with 14K miles. On third morning of ownership, all radio presets (FM & XM) were gone, trip computer display changed from "distance to empty" to "Trip A", clock time incorrect. Reset all of these and they stay throughout the day. Then, after sitting overnight in garage, all settings again disappear.
View 4 RepliesI've been having some troubles with my 2009 Hyundai sonata GLS 100k 4 cyl. Its quite an odd issue I've been having with my power windows. It seems that the switches or relays stop working intermittently however it does it in an odd fashion. First the drivers master switch works for all but sometimes not for the front passenger up nor down . The front passenger switch/relay does not work at times, up nor down, the rear passenger does not go up at all and the rear driver switch does not go down at all. I can't for the life of me fathom what might actually be the issue other than, all the switches breaking at the same time(due to power surge ?) Another theory I have is that is that my passengers and I sometimes place cellphones in the door handle and may have somehow damaged the switch ? I know these are some whacky conjectures but that I can think of.
View 9 Replieswe just bought a 2002 Excursion and it has a few issues. First off the door, the ajar light will not go out, however, the dome lights are not on constant, they come on briefly while the key is removed and do work with the roller switch. Also the radio doesn't shut off with the key removed until the timer relay kills all power. I have ohmed the door switches to ground all the way back to the VSM/GEM module. The door lock/unlock switches do nothing for any of the doors, the actuators don't even try to move. The auto headlights also do not function.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2012 azera, and noticed this a/c issue I have had. Recently when driving, I have notice the a/c intermittently change speeds and blow faster when I am at a stoplight or slowing down.
View 29 RepliesMy 2006 F150 was purchased by me in early 2009 with about 28,000 miles on it. It's an XLT crew cab 4X4 with the 5.4. Stock except for a leveling kit and an aftermarket head unit. It currently has about 59,000 miles and has been babied since I purchased it. About 3 years ago I started noting some issues:
A. Oil pressure dummy gauge is all over the place. Some times it will show no oil pressure. Other times it is all the way to the highest mark. Other times the needle has gone 180 degrees past where normal is and is actualy pointing straight down towards the floor.
B. Recently my alternator dummy gauge has started doing the same thing as my oil pressure gauge.
C. The backlight behind my odometer works intermittently, but mostly not at all.
D. My dome light will flicker when first turned on. It doesn't matter which door is opened or if the override switch it turned on. It takes several seconds to come on and will flicker like there is a poor connection somewhere, but stays on once its on.
E. Blower fan will occasionally stop blowing. Once the climate control switch is turned to off, then back to on it resumes working. This doesn't happen often, but does occasionally.
Fortunately, the truck has not left me stranded and I want to keep it that way. We are getting ready to sale my wife's Toyota and this will become her daily driver. I want to take care of any issues before she starts driving it. Are these all separate issues or is there one common issue which could be causing them all?
I had a serious issue arise today while simply trying to reprogram the radio settings on the infotainment system. When I hit the autostore button (which I had done many times before), the system kind of ground to a halt, wherein it found and programmed a new station, then a couple of others, but it took forever to finish - something that had never happened before. So I hit the autostore button again, with no effect.
Then suddenly, the whole system rebooted - the screen went black, then the welcome VW sign, then the radio started blasting again, but with only 1 or 2 stations showing. Nothing I could do to change anything worked. I couldn't switch to the CD player, I couldn't manually tune the radio, and then I found out that I didn't even have control of the temperature settings in the climate control any longer. the whole front control system seemed to be completely frozen.
And then it rebooted again - after only about 20 seconds of playing. this cycle repeats itself, over and over again. I have no control over anything on the front dashboard. I tried powering down the system, but that didn't work. So I pulled the fuse and then started it all up again, only to have the same issues again. Then frustrated, I took my key out, got out of the car, and closed the door. the damn thing kept doing the same thing. Even removing the key and locking the car up didn't slow it down. I took it to the dealer and explained the problem, and when we went out to the lot to look at it, some 5 minutes after I had arrived there, there was the system playing away all by itself, and then rebooting itself. they did a couple of checks on it and said something like - the whole command center is screwed = you need a new one.
My beloved 1995 Dodge Ram Van has intermittent dash panel electrical issues. The gas gauge an speedometer are intermittent, coupled with lights and radio on off too. It It all started when I had the transition services years ago. It has less than 100k mileage.
View 1 RepliesSo got this P0A93 code when I was driving on the highway about 65mph, scared to me death when big yellow warning light came on so I returned home and turn the car back on after 30 mins the code and all the warning lights were gone I checked under the hood felt the pump everything was good. I just got done 90k maintance on the car from dealer. So my question is that could be computer error or it could be water pump malfunction? On warranty manual the warranty for inverter with converter covers under 100k so dealer should be able to cover the water pump if it's broken? I driven the car today again at normal temperature and full blast AC on, then again no engine check light on and warning light no message.
View 4 Replies'95 LeSabre, 250K, runs great. Check engine light on randomly and signs point to a computer malfunction causing the light to come on. Is it true that only a dealership can replace the computer, not an indy mechanic? How much for the repair? Will it run ok w/o a new computer?
View 6 RepliesAt 60k mi. A/c works fine then next day won't blow cold on usual settings. Then works fine again for months and probably over a year. Now at 72K mi same problem. Is this a switch or something since I am not hearing the a/c clutch engage? Hopefully tomorrow it works as it starts up again after a day or two. What could be going bad or is loose?
View 4 Replieswhat is the best computer chip for a 2011 F-350 to get better gas mileage?
View 4 RepliesMy car has the original battery and it hasn't given me issue. Even a few weeks back when most of the country was really frozen and the car was parked outside, it started fine.
Last week after a work day in the parking lot, she was dead-dead. No dome light, no cluster, no lock LED. After 5 minutes tethered to a friend's battery via jumpers, it quickly showed interior electricity but the starter strained. 5 minutes more and the car started like nothing happened. Last weekend after a movie, the car was dead-dead again. I opened the door to see if I could hear the starter to determine how dead it was and the dome/cluster lights came back and it started fast.
The car sat for 36 hours or so and started fine, even after pretty substantial temp drops. Got around town for the past 2 days, no issue.
Today the car was dead again. Jumped it off my Mk2 and went on my way. It started fine and got me to Advanced Auto where their battery tester read 400 CCA and their info showed spec was 430 CCA. They didn't want to sell me a battery yet and suggested an overnight trickle charge and to monitor the issue.
If it was just a dead battery requiring a jump, I'd replace it. But the other oddities + the seemingly good test #'s makes me wonder what else I'm seeing.
My radio displays the word "Safe" when the car starts and will not work. I am guessing that the electric system failed at some point and I now have to put a code in the radio to get it to work. My question is: exactly what buttons do I push to do this?
View 1 RepliesI was driving my '02 Passat 1.8T home yesterday, and I noticed the steering wheel controls for the sound system weren't working. I thought nothing of it, believing that it was a fuse. I also noticed the my radar detector wasn't on, but was plugged in. So the cig lighter wasn't working either. Hmm. I got home, and pulled into my driveway, and then noticed that the HomeLink garage door opener wasn't functioning either. It was late so I just left the car outside for the night, planning to work on it the next day. Today, I went to go get my friend (I didn't have time to check on the problem), and when I honked for him to come outside, the HORN wouldn't work. At that point, I went home, popped open the fuse box, and checked all the corresponding fuses. And whaddaya know, all the fuses are fine. Yet, still, nothing work.
View 7 Repliesi have a problem with my passat.everything was perfect with my alarm and my doors.
one time i went to my car, start my engine, and then this BEEP BEEP BEEP was the whole time, and first i didn't know what that is. and then i turned on my headlight on and the notice god more and it did BEEEEEEEEEEP. the light inside my car did not turn off. after few minutes looking around, i recognized that my car things that i didn't closed my door, but i did. and my alarm doesn't work too, because it things my door is not closed, and it doesn't want to lock it!! what should i do? My car things that my car is open the whole time.
Possible to change the setting for the auto mode for the headlight to come on when it gets dark? I've always thought that they don't come on soon enough, particularly in heavy rain or towards sunset when I see many other cars with headlights on.
Couldn't find a section in the manual, but wondered if there was any undocumented tweak I could perform to get the lights to come on sooner so I can leave in in auto mode and not worry about it.
I got a new 2011 Subaru Legacy a few months ago and now that the weather is starting to get warm again I am finding that the AC really sucks!! Even on the highest settings it doesn't get above a cool breeze in the car. I grew up with an older legacy and the AC was awesome so is this just with the new Subarus or have I gotten another lemon?
View 5 RepliesI'm really puzzled by the electrical issue I'm having with my wife's 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer. It's got a 120,000 miles and we've owned it since new. It has had almost zero problems up until this point.
The other day, my wife calls and says that her A/C isn't working, it's just blowing hot air. When she got home, she turned the car off, removed her key, and noticed that the climate control blower was running. She turned it off and went inside. She had the radio on.
When I came home, I verified that with no key in the ignition, turning on the blower motor switch did turn on the blower motor. I started the car and immediately noticed both the condenser cooling fan and the engine cooling fan both immediately started running. I turned on the A/C, got nothing but hot air, and verified that the compressor was not turning.
I turned the car off and decided to check for fuses. When I pulled the A/C fuse under the hood, I heard a loud CLICK from the A/C compressor area. When I reinserted the fuse, I received another click. I then pulled out the A/C compressor clutch relay, and heard the same click. Since I wasn't sure if it really was the A/C clutch, I asked my sister-in-law to plug in and unplug the relay while I put my hand on the compressor. She did it several times and before I could verify it was the A/C clutch...it stopped. At this point, unplugging the A/C compressor relay would not cause the click. Also, unplugging the A/C fuse would not cause the click.
I then turned on the blower motor (key still off!) and it didn't start running. I started the car, and the A/C worked fine! So I drove 50 miles back and forth to work the next day and figured it was some sort of fluke.
This morning I get a call that her battery is dead. I get home, put the charger on it, and as soon as the voltage came up a little, there was the click from the A/C clutch. Unplugging the A/C clutch relay caused another click. Relay in - click. Relay out - click. Same with the A/C fuse. Then, like before, plugging the relay or fuse back in no longer caused the click.
I do have the service manual and looking at the wiring diagram...the blower relay coil can only get power with the key in ACC or RUN. The A/C clutch is more complicated...it gets power from the SAME source - the ACC or RUN position on the ignition switch. But, ground is through the engine management computer (car is a 5-speed).
The only thing that seems to be common and could explain everything would be a bad ignition switch - the blower and A/C compressor power, plus the engine management computer all seem to be on the same contact on the ignition switch. The service manual ignition switch schematic is very confusing.
I don't want to throw parts at it...but that seems to be the only thing that makes sense?
Have a 91 Honda Accord (automatic) with seems to be an electrical problem.After driving a while the Tac, Speedometer stop working and the radio cuts in and out. The car still runs, just a little rougher; when I turn it off it won't start, acts like the battery is dead. After it sits overnight it starts and then runs fine for a while or until it happens all over again.
View 2 RepliesMy AC clutch will not engage until the engine gets hot enough to call for the radiator cooling fan to switch on, which in moderate weather at highway speeds can be forever. (Single electric cooling fan.) Of course, the AC should override the engine coolant sensors and turn on the fan and engage the clutch. Once the engine is hot, the AC works normally. No one seems to know where to start looking. It's an '03 Grand Marquis with an interceptor engine package.
View 5 RepliesMy wife loves this car except when it won't start, and unfortunately that's happened from time to time recently. The first time was when we were out of town, when we got home, it wouldn't start. No big deal. But since then, it's developed the habit of draining the battery over very short times. We put in an after-market stereo a couple years ago, I thought that must be the problem. Pulled the fuse so it wouldn't play. Overnight the battery ran down. The battery is almost new. I took it back to the seller of the battery and had it checked. It's fine. My nephew told me that when he had a 1998 ES300, it had a similar problem. Obviously some type of battery drain, but I'm at a loss. The Lexus dealer cannot diagnose the problem.
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