I have a 2012 azera, and noticed this a/c issue I have had. Recently when driving, I have notice the a/c intermittently change speeds and blow faster when I am at a stoplight or slowing down.
View 29 RepliesWhen I'm slowing down, usually about 35 mph which i think is going from 3rd to 2nd gear, there is a noticeable rough down shift. Nothing horrible, but definitely much more noticeable than the shifting of all the other gears.
View 11 RepliesI bought my wife a new 2014 Azera and we like it a lot but it seems to have a bounce at low speeds 0-20 mph, mainly when starting driving. It might seem to be a tire flat spot, but she only has 1,100 miles so far and it has always been there.
View 13 RepliesJust purchased 2013 Azera with 14K miles. On third morning of ownership, all radio presets (FM & XM) were gone, trip computer display changed from "distance to empty" to "Trip A", clock time incorrect. Reset all of these and they stay throughout the day. Then, after sitting overnight in garage, all settings again disappear.
View 4 RepliesOur son's van transmission makes a clunk sound when it downshifts while slowing for a stoplight. Sign of a serious problem? Transaxle?
View 1 Repliescar revs real high sometimes, other times just won't idle for long with out dying. getting harder to restart after it dies.have changed fuel sensors, oxygen sensors, throttle sensor,mass /map sensor. Whats going on with my car!
View 4 RepliesMy neighbor and I have a similar problem with our Prius'. At around 35,000 miles, after an oil change at a dealership my 2011 Prius had a loud rattle while driving on a famous grade in my county called "Waldo Grade". It may be known as "Robin Williams' Tunnel". There was a loud rattle that occurred from the rear of the car and goes away on the flats. I brought it into a Hybrid Shop and the proprietor drove it for a day and reported that he could not duplicate the sound.
The noise has since disappeared and now I have 39,000 miles on the car. My neighbor had the same problem with his 2015 Prius: around 35,000 miles, after an oil change at his dealership, loud rattle and banging near his rear brakes. But his rattle occurred while braking down the San Francisco hills in the rain. My neighbor brought his car to his dealership and with this complaint and they reported that their driver was unable to duplicate the condition. He's waiting for another rainy day in San Francisco but it's unlikely that it will be soon. Is there any connection to the similar miles or oil changes?
So it's been REALLY cold here in MA. for the first time this winter. I've noticed that once my engine warms up to temp (160), the needle drops back down to about 140-150 idling at a stoplight, and takes a while to get back up to temp. Maybe this is normal for the diesel? I've just never noticed this in any of my previous VW gassers. Coolant level is fine, engine runs fine, so maybe its just the brutal cold weather??
View 6 RepliesMy front right tire has been squealing when I turn. It also makes a high pitch tone when driving on the Interstate or at faster speeds. (It might be the wheel barrings - is that the same thing as a CV joint?)
Is the power steering fluid found under the green cap, under the hood? Cause I checked that and it was filled. What do I do? I don't like the squeak when I turn, nor the high pitch constant sound when driving on the interstate. Also I just posted a report about really poor gas mileage. Could these problems be connected??
I have a 7.3 2003 Excursion. Should I change the gearing in the rear differential to make the truck go faster at lower RPMs? I know that will decrease my towing capability.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2004 Honda Accord EX (4 cyl) with 102k miles. I bought it brand new and kept it completely in shape with regular service. For the past few months I start getting front end vibration at braking, mostly when slowing from high speeds and without any repair this vibration has now became common at all speed.... my diagnosis - I need to replace to turn disk/rotors....
While I have not remedy the rotor issue yet, I started getting this new vibration at 60 to 80 mph.... Below and above this range of speed i have no vibrations - the car will drive fine. This type of vibration in my experience for front wheel drives is mostly due to balancing or bad tires. so i took the easy way ..... and as i already needed tires well i dished out the dough and replaced all four with Michelin Primacy hoping that it will resolve the speed related vibration.... Well it did not?
I continue to drive as-is without addressing the real problem - coz I'm not sure what is causing the vibration.... now new additional vibration started on acceleration; any time I hit the gas pedal (normal acceleration or kick-down) I get vibration very similar to when a stick shift's gearbox required replacement/repair of the worn out pressure plate's (fingers/springs gets bent or weak) or the thrust bearing needs replacements/repair/grease packing. I'm from the old school stickshift transmission, my knowledge in automatic is very little - I have repaired Acura's automatic transmission before but I don't think repairing once will make me an expert in automatic.
So to summarize my issues or current state:
Issue# 1 front end vibration on braking
Issue# 2 front end vibration 60 to 80 mph speed only
Issue# 3 front end vibration on acceleration at all speed
The list above is in sequential order as I have experienced.
Well I've been noticing that when I'm slowing down from higher speeds (50 mph or so) my steering wheel is shimmying a bit. Also I just started to hear my front passenger brake squeal a little. Well when I went to visually check the brakes, the pads seem VERY thick! Is it normal for them to start to go bad even with such thick pads? They are like 1cm thick. Also the rotors did seem used for sure, maybe 1mm worn down or so from the outer lip which is raised (I hope you understand what I mean), but they weren't scoured or anything. I suppose they could still be warped? I figured with such big brakes I wouldn't run into that problem. The car has 70k on it and the pads have been replaced once and rotors turned at 25k by the previous owner.
View 6 RepliesMy Hundai Azera 2009, was blowing heat on both side of a "dual system" during the cold months. Now that its warm weather when I turn on the A/C it blows cold on driver side vents , but hot air on passenger side. What do I need to correct this.
View 2 RepliesThe alternator light on my 2001 Ford Escape 3.0L comes on intermittently. I've replace the alternator, belt, tensioner, and battery. I've check the wiring and the ground and there are no noticeable issues. When I first start up it never comes on. After about 30-40 minutes of driving it will start to come on intermittently. I've noticed that it always shuts off when taking off from a stop. I have the most trouble with it coming on while driving around the city and little trouble while cruising on the highway. I'm completely stumped. Is it possible for one of the other pulleys to be causing this if for instance some bearings were going bad and it was binding up or problems with the crankshaft slowing down the belt?
View 13 RepliesSo even with the AC light signalling ON on my display, the cool AC feel sometimes works well and sometimes will shut off and just blow air. The heater function works fine. I"m almost certain I need to charge in more freon.
View 1 RepliesLately, when slowing down to a stop, or very slow speeds, the intake ducts make a very loud moan. It sounds like a muted horn really. Sometimes, I can put it in park, and it'll be making the noise. Open the hood, and it feels like it is coming from the plastic intake tube. When it does this, the motor likely stalls out, and needs to be restarted.
Another issue, we cruise with it at roughly 100 kph. It works good, that 4.0 has gobs of power, but when cruising, sometimes it will very randomly work bad, just have a misfire hissy fit! It doesn't affect the cruising, but it just works funny.
Its a 1997 Ford Aerostar with the 4.0 OHV, and the E- 4wd with the Dana TC28 transfer case.
At 60k mi. A/c works fine then next day won't blow cold on usual settings. Then works fine again for months and probably over a year. Now at 72K mi same problem. Is this a switch or something since I am not hearing the a/c clutch engage? Hopefully tomorrow it works as it starts up again after a day or two. What could be going bad or is loose?
View 4 RepliesA couple weeks ago my AC started to blow just hot air. I went to Autozone, picked up a can of AC Pro, emptied the can without overcharging the line, it ran great for 3 days, then it shut off. I thought all the freon leaked out but the next day the AC system came back on. Now it sometimes comes on and off.
I took it to my mechanic. When I first told him the issue, he came back telling me that the AC system was fine. I drove home and as I was about a few miles from my house the AC stopped working. The mechanic said they did see it leaking but to come back a few days once the dye marks the problematic area.
Should I have not used AC Pro? I did not get any error codes when I ran the AC diagnostic. Turning on/off the AC manually does not seem to work. Changing from recirculation to outside air does change much. Revving the engine does not produce cooler air.
I'm not an expert, could there be bubbles in the line causing this behavior? I'm taking my car back in tomorrow morning. I'm hoping the AC stays off so my mechanic can troubleshoot this issue. Sounds like maybe the AC is having a hard time staying on? Bad sensor?
My tires are cupping on my Azera. I've had the tires rotated every 7500 miles as required by the maintenance schedule. The tires make a lot of noise while driving, especially at highway speeds.
View 25 RepliesMk4 problem: my interior fan in my Jetta doesn't work on any of the levels, the ac button doesn't work either, and nothing is lit up except the recirculating button.. Resistor?
View 3 Replies'99 Exp. My AC blows cold most of the time when I first start the car, after awhile it begins to blow hot (heater hot). If I mess with the switches for awhile it will blow cold again at least for a little while. It appears to work fine at highway speeds, but if I stop for a light, it starts to blow hot again as soon as I take off. You can hear a flap close (or open) sometimes when you move the switches. I have read several post concerning the blend door, but I don't know how to check to see if this is the problem. According to my manual, I have to take apart the dash to get to the blend door. Is that correct? I would hate to go through all of that only to find out it is something else.
View 6 Replies