Azera HG (2011-16) :: 2013 - Startup Rattle When Car Has Been Sitting For 30 Minutes And Longer
Mar 1, 2016
I recently bought this CPO Azera that came with 100k mile powertrain warranty. I noticed startup rattle that occurs when the car has been sitting for 30mins and longer. It usually lasts 2 - 4 seconds.
I wanted to take it to the dealership but I want to make sure that I approach them the right way and won't be sent home with "this is normal behavior" as it happened in many cases when I was researching it. I suspect chain tensioner but I might be wrong.
2013 Azera Limited with 49k miles ....
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I have a 2013 Azera w/technology package, it has 20,500 miles. I absolutely love the car, have had no issues with it. However, every time the car is started with a cold engine, either from sitting overnight, or sitting an hour when it's very cold outside (20's or 30'sF), there is a loud rattle like something is very loose or I've described it like it sounds like someone threw a bag of bolts in the engine for about 3-4 seconds. Then it runs like a normal engine. I've had it in the shop twice, the 2nd time they replaced the fuel rail injector assembly and all the injectors due to such a heavy carbon buildup in the cylinders. It still rattles horribly. It's an embarrassment to start, it sounds horrible and doesn't sound like the normal startup noise. This concerns me of the longevity of the engine. I have video of the start up noise even.
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Every time I start my 2013 Azera there is a rattling of the valves like there is no oil in the top end. I have heard other owners complaining about this so I asked my dealer when I went in for an oil change. The last three changes I have asked and he told me the same thing, there is nothing being reported. So I got my oil changed and went home. Parked the car for 6.5 ~ 7 hours and when I started it up the sound was louder than ever. I called the dealer back and told them. They asked me to leave it overnight so they could hear the noise for them selves. I dropped the car off that evening.
I got a call the first thing in the morning and they said that their tech did hear something and they were going to test it again in two hours and call me back. They called back and said they believed it was the CAM phasers. They gave me the car back while they ordered parts and rounded up a loaner. I dropped it off on Thursday.
Two weeks later (today) I picked the car up. Here is what they did. It turned out to be the CAM Phasers so when they got in there they also had to replace the CAM shafts (All 4) as well. I am sure there was more going on than what they told me, after all they had the car for two full weeks!
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Many months ago I had a rattle in my 13 Azera. Of course when I took it back to the dealer they heard it but when I left it was gone. I had a scheduled service to have it looked at but the rattle never came back.
The last two weeks it is back louder than before. I thought it might be coming from the passenger seat belt housing on the side of the door but now it sounds like it might be coming from the passage side rear door or maybe the sun roof. Hard to tell yet my girlfriend was in the car last night said it wasn't coming from the passenger side seat belt housing sounded more like the rear of the car.
So going to make an appointment to get it looked at next week. I hate rattles! I looked all over the car yesterday after had her cleaned up. My trunk is empty, so not sure what it could be.
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My car was randomly not starting for past 2 months. I would get in the car, press the break pedal and push the start button. The car would not start and the ignition would just go to ON. I turned the ignition off, closed and reopened the door with the remote and then was able to start it. Few days later the trick stopped working. Did some research and found something on faulty P gear selector sensor. They recommended starting the car on N. That has been working for me for few weeks until one day this tricked stopped working for me. I decided to replace remote battery and had no issue for past two weeks. New remote batteries solved my problem.
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Where exactly is the temperature sender/sensor is located?
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I have a 2011 santa fe limited with the 3.5 and 35k miles that has a noisy timing chain rattle upon start up after sitting for a few hours,it's my understanding that the cause is no oil pressure to the tensioner because the oil drains back into the oil pan after sitting for a while. Is there a solution for this situation like a spring loaded tensioner-it seems to me that replacing the tensioner and chain does not solve the problem.
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My 2011 sonata rattles when starting. It sounds like noisy lifters and quits after 2-3 seconds. It does not do it on the first start-up of the day, but on subsequent starts when the engine is warm.
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I got the 2013 sonata gls, 5700 kms.
I live in southern Ontario, in Canada and the weather is starting to drop here in the mornings and nights.
The mornings are not 0-3 degrees Celsius and at night a little bit colder.
I have notice that when I start my car in the morning it seems like the engine takes a little big longer to start. It takes no longer than 2 seconds to actually start, it just sounds like its struggling a bit more.
I notice once i drive the car for a bit, park and then start the car again it seems like it fires up quicker and without ease.
Is this due to the drop in weather? or something else at play here.
Also it seems like in the mornings when the car has been sitting for like 9 hours, after it starts the engine sounds louder than usual.
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2011 Santa Fe 3.5 L
I've isolated this rattle down to the cam phaser( CVVT) in the right cylinder head. It rattles bad for 2-3 secs on cold start or after it sits for 3 hours.
I've put in 5w20 synthetic oil and synthetic Lucas additive and it cleared up the noise for short interval start ups.
I changed the cam phaser in the right head with a used one ( 40k ) but it didn't make a difference. I should change out the attaching cam as well.
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When going down the road I notice a rattle noise coming from the steering column area. I took it to the dealer a week or so after noticing it. I purchased the car brand new and like I said I took it to the dealer a week after purchasing it and they said they could not find anything and said they zip tied the brake lines or some bs hoping that would solve my problem.
It is now kind of obvious and I am going to take it back in to another dealership that has a better reputation.
I took a video last night so you can hear the noise I am talking about.
2013 Hyundai Sonata steering column rattle - YouTube
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My 2007 Azera trunk no longer stays open. In fact, if I open it the trunk lid will come crashing down. I assume that there are struts and/or a spring that has failed.
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So here is a little background on my car have owned it for 1 1/2 years, never had any issues. just recently over the past month the car has trouble starting the first try after sitting for a hour or longer. I took it to the dealer for an oil change and had them check the alternator, battery, and starter. All came back perfectly fine. I also had the spark plugs, and all coil packs replaced assuming this would resolve any issues.
So after doing all of that still have the problem, I have read numerous post that seem similar but have not seen an actual answer. My car is not throwing any check engine lights or anything. Trying to avoid taking it to the dealer to have them waste my time and money. By the way my car only has 38k miles on it second owner.
So far I see it could be
CTS
MAF
Crank Sensor
etc ...
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Have a question about a noise I hear. This is a click (three click only) that only seems to occur if the car has sat for around an hour or longer. When started and put into gear and it starts to move, there is a metallic click that occurs right after the car starts to move. It come from the front. I try the dealership but no luck.
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About 7 months ago my truck started cranking longer than normal to start after sitting for more than 2 hours. This went on for about 3 weeks, then it started normally again. (By longer crank time, i timed it between 5-7 seconds on average. Normal is about 2 seconds). Now it has started doing this again about 4 weeks ago. Now I'm thinking HPO slow leak. Yesterday all is good again. What should I be looking for as a starting point to fix this permanently? When it cranks longer, the icp stays at 0, the ipr goes to 77%. Then it just fires off. No slow build of pressure. You can see all my mods and updated parts in my sig. I wonder if one of the new dummy plug o-rings is starting to give up already after only 15k miles. (Batt voltage is at 13.9-14.2, ficm is at 49.5 steady).
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So my R32 just recently started to stall at any stand still longer than 1-2 mins with the A/C on. Every thing works perfectly fine as avertised as long as the engine has not warmed up yet, I am driving at a cruising speed, or the A/C is not turned on. I'm thinking the issue maybe be heat related causing the crank position sensor to malfunction. Is there anyway to check the cps with Vagcom?
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Our 2004 V8 w/air susp bounces up and down when idling in park for more than a minute or so. At first we sent it to the dealer as a rough idle problem. They sent the car back as normal.
The "bouncing" is just that; the car vibrates in only the vertical axis. Most V8 roughness is mostly rotational and V8's with rough idle usually rock the car on it's longitudinal axis. Also, feeding in a few hundred rpm doesn't change the period of the bounce. So, it's RPM independent. Rules out the enging, doesn't it?
The bouncing is enough to jiggle keys on the dash. I'm wondering if the air suspension could be the culprit. I tried changing the ride height while bouncing and the behavior stopped until the car settled at the new height. That's what leads me to suspect some sensor failure in the air susp.
2004 V8, Air Susp, No Nav
2003 GTi 1.8T
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I have an 87 v6 ranger with 5 speed that has been sitting for several years. The truck only has 48000 miles on it. The gas tank has been cleaned out and both fuel pumps have been replaced. The injectors were pulled and cleaned...
It will start up and run for about 5 minutes and then will shut off. It will not start after that until the next day and then does the same thing. It starts up and runs then shuts off and can't get it to start again. Could it be some kind of circuit breaker tripping or maybe the ecm. If it is the ecm how do you test it...
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I hear a squeaking noise when I start my car. It is mostly in the mornings. Sometimes other parts of the day also. I believe it is on cold start because I usually hear it when the car has been sitting for a few hours.
My first thought was that it may be the belt so I popped the hood and looked at it. The belt seemed nice and tight and there were no cracks or extensive wear on it.
Second thought was brakes. My front brake pads are good but rear brake pads are close to needing replacement. Sometimes when I brake I hear the squeaking noise but it is hard to tell because at time it feels like it is coming from other cars.
Could the brakes be the cause of this sound? Even though it is at start up and not constant.
Car is 2007 Sonata with 100k+ miles on it.
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Have been noticing my 2003 SantaFe "coughing" on startup after sitting typically overnight or longer. Started noticing this after I went to Royal purple synthetic on an oil change. Started useing Mobil One synthetic and I am hearing the same thing. For a millisecond after I start it up after it has been sitting overnight or longer a quick "cough" kind of a sound that quickly goes away. No other problems apparent.
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OK so my 2003 Nissan maxima is hard to start all the time after its been sitting for a few minutes like 30min or more also I'm getting a CEL light.
See the video : [URL] ....
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