Avant - Audi A6 :: 1999 - Occasionally Stumbles / Misfire And Throwing CEL Code
Sep 3, 2014
We have a 1999 Audi A6 Avant (wagon) with about 190,000 miles. Best car we've ever owned, and want to keep her running until the wheels fall off (so to speak). We split our time between sea level and a ski town at 7000' (yes, that may be relevant).
Last spring our Trusty (sea-level) Mechanic repaired the exhaust system; both tailpipes were shot (car sounded like a tank). Rather than replace with Audi parts (was going to be a full exhaust system replacement - $000s) they spliced in some new tailpipe. Car ran quietly after that.
However, immediately thereafter (like, on my drive home from Trusty Mechanic's shop) and ever since the car will occasionally stumble (misfire) and throw a check-engine light. Typical scenario is after having been off the throttle while going downhill and then tipping into the throttle at the bottom of the hill, the car will stumble and on comes the CEL. Stumbling lasts 5-10 seconds then gradually subsides. Light stays on, though. Not 100% reproduceable under those circumstances (but doesn't really happen under other scenarios), but happens often enough to be disconcerting.
We recently decamped from sea level to spend the summer up in the mountains (great bicycling), and while the car misbehaved a couple of times on the way out of town, by the time we got to 5000 ft or so, the CEL was no longer illuminated. The car has not misfired once while at altitude despite plenty of situations that would presumably have triggered the issue, were we at sea level.
Trusty Mechanic has replaced some injectors, some coil packs, and the spark plug cables. No behavior change.
View 11 Replies
Advertisement
2000 Grand Am GT with 3.4 and 150,000 miles. Car keeps throwing code P304 - cylinder 4 misfire. The main issue is the light and needing to pass emissions test. It has just recently had new plugs, wires, and injector #4.
The fuel pressure regulator was replaced about 3 years ago because it was leaking fuel, enough to smell while driving the car with windows rolled down. Shortly after the fpr was replaced, the acceleration problem seems to have started, either by coincidence, or improper installation. The light/error has been occurring for quite some time, about the past year or two. About a year ago, the car was also throwing a random misfire code. I am not positive if both codes were being thrown at the same time, and when exactly the P304 started.
The crank (or cam) sensor was replaced and worked with the issue for a short while (removed codes/light for maybe a few months?) Before the sensor was replaced, the car would stumble at very slow speeds, 0-10 mph. Also replaced Idle Air Control valve last year. The car would sometimes surge on semi warm starts (not cold, not 190-200) between 500-1000 rpms. The surge would be worse when I had the blower running or the rear defrost on, down to 200 rpms at times.
Currently, the car runs perfectly fine for me, except when trying to accelerate on highway ramps. Its firing somewhat when you step on the pedal, but lags and takes longer than normal to accelerate up to speed for merging with traffic. Drove the car after new injection and said it runs fine while driving, but the misfire seems to be mostly or only occurring at idle.
View 14 Replies
My wife's 03 Passat w/ 1.8t is bucking and lurching throwing a P0301 (Cyl 1 misfire) code. We have about 58k on the engine and had the dealer do the 40k service 2 years ago.
So far I replaced cyl 1 spark plug, swapped and then replace coil pack with new. My choices for parts were limited on a Friday night and these are el cheapo Autozone parts. Still missing and throwing DTC, I don't really have access to Vag-Com anymore (just OBD reader at parts store) and I don't have a Bentley's either (I know there's some eye rolling going on now).
How to troubleshoot the cause so I can make a decision to take to mechanic or do a few more parts swaps between now and Monday. I've got tools and a multi-meter. I used to have Vag-Com but it isn't supported on my new laptop (Vista), I tried the USB extension cord on my desktop but it is hit and miss.
View 3 Replies
My friend has a 2003 Toyota Echo that is throwing a cylinder misfire code. Original code is P0302 and P0302PD. The car is idling rougher, kind of sounds like "put-put-put". Also, the car has no power at all. He lives on a hill and he can't even pull out of his driveway. Lastly, the smell of the exhaust is gassy.
We have changed out the spark plugs...no change. Next, we bought a new ignition coil for the number two cylinder...no change. So, maybe its the wiring. Put the new coil onto the number 3 cylinder and the number 3 coil onto the 2 cylinder. Low and behold, the misfire code changes to P0303 and P0303PD.
Thinking we might have gotten a dud of a coil, we bought another. Same thing...new coil on 2 code is P0302...new coil on 3, code is P0303. Could we just have gotten two bad coils? Oh, coils were a BWD brand coil and Duralast brand. Should we just go OEM from dealer? OR Denso from Advance Auto?
View 5 Replies
2004 Elantra AT ... 6 months ago top of the radiator cracked caused it to overheat and blow the head gasket and warp the head. Repaired that and compression is fine now. It ran great for 4 months but now it randomly stalls. at or near idle. Seems to do it more at operating temp rather then cold. Occasionally the check engine light will pop on and the code reads (random misfire). It acts just like it has been shut off. But immediately restarts.
View 3 Replies
I'm trying to diagnose a stumbling condition in a Hyundai Elantra 2008 with 84,000 miles. Occasionally when driving between 25-40 MPH, the car will shudder/stumble - almost like the engine is trying to shut off. However, it keeps on driving after a few seconds.
I cleaned the throttle body - it was quite dirty - but the problem continues to occur.
I didn't see anything related on several searches.
View 9 Replies
I have a 1999 F-150 with the 4.2L engine. I recently did a motor swap as the original motor was bad. I bought this truck as a project truck and have enjoyed working on it.
When I did the engine swap back in May of this year, it took a while to work out all the little bugs and quirps. However, after a while of running the truck it threw a few codes. I replaced a lot of the emission components and no more codes for several months until last month the truck started throwing the infamous P0174 "too lean bank two"... I have replaced the pcv valve and all the hoses to include the little rubber boot under the front of the intake, all 4 O2 sensors, MAF sensor, EGR, DPFE, IAC valve, new wires and plugs to include coil pack, fuel pressure regulator, and all the vacuum lines that are under the hood.
The truck runs fine, has power, but about every couple weeks or so it throws this P0174 code. I know there are alot of threads on here about this problem and I have read many of them. It only throws the P0174 and not the P0171. I am wondering if there could be a problem specific to "bank 2" that I am over looking.
View 2 Replies
So, I just picked up a 99 1.8T Wagon with 158k miles a couple days ago and after driving it a bit, I've noticed a couple things.
1. The coolant temp isn't reading, I assume this is probably the coolant sensor.
2. Occasionally the car will go into a rough idle and misfire when I put my foot on the gas. Could this just be a spark plug issue or something bigger? The PO did mention that he just replaced the plugs and I've read in previous threads about the subject that the 1.8ts are picky about plugs.
View 24 Replies
I recently bought a h&s tuner and installed a dpf delete kit. Everything works great when the truck is not plugged in to the tuner although when I do plug it in, the truck keeps throwing a communications code and goes into a limp mode until I delete the code. I believe it was p0073 but i maye be mistaken. Regardless it has to do with communicating through the obd2 port. I sent the tuner in to get checked out and it turns out its something to do with the truck. I've checked all the fuses and tried to check for broken wires. Where to look next?
View 4 Replies
I've got a 2006 F350 5.4L.
The ABS light came on and it was throwing a 'rear speed sensor' code. I searched around and it seemed to be a common issue that the sensor goes bad and needs to be replaced.
I bought a sensor and replaced it, but in doing so, I saw that while the sensor was indeed bad (cracked) the wire right at the connector was corroded.
I replaced the sensor but the ABS light is still on the dash. Is it possible that they code simply needs to be cleared? I was able to read it with my OBD2 dongle and Dash Command App, but maybe I'm not able to clear it?
Or is it more likely that the corroded wire on the connector is the issue? (it wasn't fully corroded and I cleaned it up and sealed it.). It didn't look like I could pull the wires out of the connector, so I assume I'll need a new connector. What is the part number?
View 2 Replies
My 2008 f250 6.4l just got out of the shop a week a go new small block and new pistons, throwing #1 constrabution code,map sensor and #1 cil misfire you can hear air come out of the intake, I am guessing valve train or lifter..... other problem two days after the truck throwing the codes i went to take it to the shop and would barely drive floored struggle to go 10mph put it in park rev up normal will go in reverse normal just no power in drive, no transmission codes, had it towed to the diesel shop, mech said might be a fail safe on transmission from the engine codes? it has egr/dfp h&s mini maxx tuner, the truck has 170k on body 11k on new engine before the new block that was put in last week.
View 6 Replies
I own a 2003 Ford Ranger 4x4 Automatic with the 4.0l V6. I bought the truck a little over two years ago with 150k miles. The Engine had alway had a slightly rough idle and I never really noticed until a friend pointed it out at around 170k. Every time the pump engages after a short warm up period there is a distinct stumble in the engine, although it never stalls or trips a check engine light. I have replaced the spark plugs with four prong pre gapped Bosch platinum plugs and new plug wires as well. I have installed an Optima red top battery that tests at 1100cca and have tested the voltage draw when the AC engages and it only drops .2 volts from 14.48v to 14.24v. I thoroughly cleaned the MAF sensor and before changing plugs I ran a can of non chlorinated brake cleaner through the throttle body to clean out carbon deposits and dirty throttle body. The engine still stumbles. Yesterday at 182k I disconnected the low pressure switch on the AC pump and boom, smooth low idle with no stumble. What could be wrong with the AC pump that could cause this stumble in the engine?
View 12 Replies
I have a 2000 f350 5.4 liter I recently fixed a misfire in cylinder 1 since then every morning the truck runs perfectly fine however at night when I leave work around 6 o'clock the truck has a misfire again I stopped pullover pull the spark plug out put the spark plug back in and it runs perfectly fine all over again I don't know if this matters but when I replace the spark plug I only replaced one and not all 8 same thing with the new coil pack I don't see how that could cause this.
View 14 Replies
After almost an entire year of trouble-free running (with the exception of replacing a ground strap), my 2009 accent decided to start bucking and shuddering again. It only does this when warmed up, runs perfect cold. In the last 16 months, I've replaced the plugs, coils, battery, PCV valve, and ground strap. Car starts with zero hesitation.
Strong battery and starter, consistent output from alternator. After @5 miles, the car stumbles on acceleration, and idles sporadically. While looking at it tonight, I noticed a few exhaust brackets under the car had broken, and the flex section of the intermediate pipe had torn open. Could this presumed exhaust leak be causing the crap running performance?
My "exhausted" brain thought it could cause the O2 sensor to misinform the ECM, resulting in the P0300 code I pulled...
View 3 Replies
So recently I took my engine apart to do a valve cover gasket and Ecs tuning 2.0 coil conversion. I noticed a good amount of oil in the plug tubes so I got out my trusty soap dispenser and started pumping out oil. Pulled plugs and cleaned them (wanted to make sure oil was all out b4 getting new) also while I had it apart I wanted to take intake off, ( just to polish it and clean out any carbon inside).. Well I never ended up doing that. I removed the injector connections and realized it was to much work for such little satisfaction. So I plugged the injectors back in.
I got my car all back together and now I'm throwing 6 cel codes!! P0102 (maf) which I'm assuming b.c I took it off for so long, p0201, p0202 ( injector 1 and 2 miss), then some misfire codes p0300 (random) p0301 (cylinder 1) and p0304 (cylinder 4). The car starts runs very rough then cel comes on and blinks. I was thinking maybe the oil getting down to the combustion chamber couldn't be the best for it but it would just burn off. Only other thing I did was take off the thottle body and cleaned it.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2001 Audi A4 1.8t (AWM engine, B5 platform). When I start the car, I get misfires on all cylinders (very rough idle, sometimes it stalls when the engine is cold) and the car appears to be running lean. Once the CEL comes on, it runs fine (albeit the slight loss of power do the ECU going into limp mode to correct the problem).
So far, I've done the following myself: new O2 sensors, new SAI pump, new EGR valve, new diverter valve, new N75 valve, new vacuum hoses, cleaned the throttle body, new MAF sensor, cleaned the air filter, new plugs, and new coils. When the problem persisted, I had my mechanic change the timing belt, check for vacuum leaks, change the valve cover gasket, replace the fuel pump and filter. None of this has solved the problem! This is driving me nuts.
At this point, there are only two possibilities that I can think of:
1) Catalytic converter is clogged? I pulled out the pre-cat O2 sensor, started the car, but it still misfired. This seems to mean that there's another problem (i.e., if the cat is clogged, it's in addition to something else).
2) Dirty fuel injectors? I've put two bottles of Techron through the car to no avail. From the outside, they look pretty dirty, so I'll definitely try removing them, cleaning them, and replacing the gaskets. Hopefully this solves it.
Is there something I'm missing?
View 7 Replies
So my girlfriends's 2001 2.0 Golf (engine code AVH, 153k miles) began throwing codes for misfire on cylinder 4 and for the o2 sensor (post-cat) recently. I went ahead and replaced the spark plugs, wireset, and the coil pack. They were way overdue. The CEL went away for like 30 miles, and then came back. Now it's reading misfire on cylinder 3 and the same thing for the o2 sensor. What else it could be? Search is coming up blank, most people replaced the coil pack and the CEL went away.
View 2 Replies
I've got a misfire problem with my Focus. It started about a month ago and did not trip a code until last week. It stumbles on acceleration between 2,000 and 4,000 rpms. It is only a slight stumble and although noticeable, it does not impede driveability much. Last week I was able to get it to finally trip an OBD code. P302 - Cylinder 2 misfire. I changed the plugs and wires with no effect. I thought I had it narrowed down to the coil or injector until my wife noticed a new wrinkle.
Under normal driving conditions the misfire is annoying, but my wife found that if she turns on the A/C, it is undriveable and will not accelerate past 30 mph without some patience and a neck brace for the bucking. My first thought was the A/C compressor was freezing up. I turned off the A/C and left the blower on and it would not stop missing. I turn off the blower and it smooths right out to the annoyance I described first.
Right now I drive the car without A/C and blower whenever I accelerate. If I'm going a steady speed, all is well and I can run the blower and A/C.
View 7 Replies
I have a 2000 Explorer 4.0 SOHC that I'm having a persistent problem of cylinder 3 misfire. I've changed plugs with Motorcraft plugs set to the proper gap, put on new wires and have checked the resistance across the ignition module, both primary and secondary without change. I doubt that the problem could be the ignition control module as only cylinder 3 is affected. I have Auto Enginuity that I use to read the codes, attempt a repair and then clear the codes only to have P0303 appear again. Obviously the engine stumbles and has poor acceleration.
View 14 Replies
Recently bought 98 f150 xlt 3 door 5speed 4x4 4.6l 230k miles for $1k was throwing misfire codes on 1,8,4,3 cylinders. Usually throws two cylinders at a time and never the same cylinders consecutively
Parts replaced:
coils...msd blaster
belden wire
motorcraft plugs...when i did these it ran perfect for a tank of fuel...18mpg no stumble
two cans seafoam through the tank
tank was dropped and drained
fuel filter
one can seafoam intake cleaner
3" exhaust from the Y pipe back
MAF cleaned
Previous owner said to have tested and cleaned injectors but I am not positive it was done... I don't think its mechanical because it wanders through the cylinders and when i changed the plugs it ran spot on. it gets worse the warmer the truck gets also.
injectors?
clogged small cats?
sensor?
View 14 Replies
I have a 2006 Lincoln Mark LT that seems to have an intermittent misfire. The truck is not throwing any codes either.
View 6 Replies