I understand the TSB for this issue relates to 2005 and 2006 model Avalons. what's your best guess in terms of how common the timing cover oil leak problem is on '05s and '06s? 20%? 80%?
View 11 Replies'07 Avalon with 169k miles. I replaced all 3 back coils and 6 plugs back in December when I had various misfires, but the most common code was P0301 which is cylinder 1.
Car ran great until last week when I made a hard left and accelerated. CEL started flashing, read code and it's P0301. Every time I accelerate half throttle or more I can set the code off, but then shutting down car and restarting it drives fine, until I go half throttle. Car runs better when cold, and worse when I turn left and accelerate.
As long as I don't mash the gas I can drive for a half hour or so without the strumbling/hesitation. Surely the new coil hasn't failed so soon, I hate to pull the wipers, plenum,etc. and buy another coil just on a chance that might solve the issue. Car is only throwing a P0301 this time, no other codes like before. I've read a clogged cat or sticky exhaust valve could cause a cyl misfire.
I brought my 2004 VW Touareg V6(83k miles) to the dealer for a recall on the ignition call and much to my surprise, was presented with a diagnosis of a $6,000 problem! The dealer told me that the computer read some codes which say that the timing chain is stretched and needs to be replaced. They said it will take 4-5 days and should be done asap so it doesn't "go out", because if it does, it's an even more expensive problem. I took the car to another VW repair shop and they asked me if I heard any noised when I start it cold (like pebbles in a bucket). I have not had any problems like that at all, so they said I shouldn't worry until I start getting symptoms. They also said there is no recommended point (like 90,000 miles) when VW recommends the change, so it really shouldn't be a common problem. I want to do the right thing, but I don't want to rush into an expensive repair if it isn't necessary.
View 1 RepliesWas told my Sonata has a leak at the Timing Cover Gasket by two different service stations. Took it to the Hyundai Dealership and they said they would need to pull the engine out to fix it and it would take a couple of days. I read on a couple of other posts that people were able to replace the timing cover gasket themselves. So, I don't understand why the Dealership said the engine would need to be pulled, but I'm reading others say they fixed it without pulling the engine. Am I missing something...? I'd rather not have the engine pulled out if it doesn't need to be.
2008 Hyundai Sonata 2.4 L 2359 CC L4 DOHC 16 Valve.
I went in today for a factor recall on my 2006 Toyota Corolla and when I was leaving I was told that my car needs to have the timing cover resealed. Additionally, the Drive belt is cracked and it was recommended to me to get a new belt. My air filter is dirty, I need manual transmission service, Fuel injection service, Fuel induction service and an AC refresh.
Being a college student I wanted to get some feedback on some of the stuff I could do myself. I already change my own motor oil and oil filter and anything I could do myself from the above recommendations from Toyota would really lower the cost.
Also I am not really sure about the timing cover reseal because I have not seen any leaks under my car. It may be that I do not understand what a timing cover leak is. And is this something that I should get fixed right away or can i afford to wait for a while (1 year or longer).
Also what is the difference between a fuel induction service and fuel injection service? Can i do it myself?
Had our dealer service (non oil change interval) today at 46k miles. Was informed that there is an oil leak from the timing cover seal.
I was told it's not a minor job to remove the timing cover and reseal due to the many labor hours involved. 2 days of work required.
I have seen this minor oil leak on the left engine side that facing the firewall for sometimes, but just found time to bring to dealer. After some searching on Internet, I suggested to them that it might be leaking from the timing chain cover.
View 19 RepliesI had my 2011 on the lift tonight for a quick oil change and tire rotation. The current mileage is 115k. During the inspection, I discovered that I had a small timing cover oil leak.
View 1 RepliesI have a 97 Honda Accord with V Tec engine, 2.2L. I have an oil leak that is coming from BEHIND the timing belt cover. I removed the cover and the belts to expose several seals. The oil leak is quite extensive and leaves a good puddle after running the engine, however, it will not leak once I clean up the mess, put the car up on jack stands and disassemble the engine. I cannot tell which seal is leaking and am wondering how to tell which seal is leaking. Is there a way to apply pressure to the engine with air, possibly through the oil dipstick hole to possibly expose the leaking seal?
View 9 RepliesI was changing my mom's oil at work today. I noticed her timing chain cover is leaking. Is this just an isolated occurrence? It seems to be right where the FIPG mates the timing cover to the cylinder head. It also seems right below the tensioner. However the tensioner is bone dry.
View 9 RepliesMy truck has had this annoying tendency to drink coolant. I believe I took care of it by replacing the thermostat gasket. Not so, it drinks about a quart every 50 miles - so quite a bit really.
Finally bit the bullet and took it to the dealer so that they could figure out where the coolant was going.
Answer I got back was - timing cover gasket, water pump, lower radiator hose.
The water pump appears to be good, its just the gasket that's bad. So my question is - how significant is the timing chain cover leak? Poking around online it appears to be reasonably common, but sounds very expensive. The dealer indicated it would be 2 days work minimum.
My serp belt squeaks due to contamination due to timing cover leak. I removed belt and cleaned it with mild degreaser solution and it was quiet for 1 day. If I had 100% water in cooling system, would any more leakage cause a belt squeak? I am putting off fixing timing cover gasket since it is a 5hr job. Coolant is @ 90% water concentration now.
Taurus 3.0 Vulcan motor.
I have a coolant leak from behind my timing cover found while doing a coolant system pressure test. I do not want to remove the engine. Looking for info on successful cover install with the engine still in the truck?
View 8 RepliesMy 2003' Explorer XLT (4.0L V6) has an oil leak. I tracked it down to the passenger side, rear, bolt head on the valve cover (back by firewall). I took it to a guy who replaced the valve cover gaskets, but it is still leaking. He claimed when he had the cover off he looked for any cracks on it, but did not see any at the time.
Anyways, I was searching around and found several explorers leaking in or around the same area of the valve cover. And it turned out that there issue stemmed from bad timing chain guides, causing the valve cover to crack.
I do notice that on a cold start, I hear a rattling when I first start it up. It rattles for maybe that first 1-2 seconds when starting. Is this my timing chain rattling around? If that is the case, how much this could set a guy back on repairs?
I guess I don't know whether to just replace the valve cover, or if I should dig into it to see if the real issue is the timing chain guides/tensioner. Mileage is approximately 121,000....
I have 2000 V6 3.0 Ranger and it has sprung a small coolant leak from timing chain cover gasket. I think just few drips after driving a while since I don't see significant drop in coolant level (Took a month to notice level dropped in reservoir) and did not see an active leak while idling. No water in the oil.
The proper repair would be to replace the gasket, but for the age and condition of the truck, I don't think it is worth it. Searching for a cheaper solution, I found K-Seal and see lots of reviews with success. Will it damage the cooling system in anyway? I think it would be worth a try even if it doesn't fix the leak as long as it does not cause any harm.
Is this common? No coolant in the oil-YET........
Any way to fix it without pulling the cover?
OK... I know next to nothing about cars. I have a '99 Chevy Lumina I just bought in February. It has been one problem after another. The water pump has been changed and I just got my car back on Monday because there was a leak on the timing chain cover. Now, the car is smoking on the passenger side. Its not a light smoke, but its not heavy yet. I noticed it on the way to work this morning. I opened the hood, it is coming from the left side (looking at it, so the passenger side) of the engine maybe kinda underneath it. I dunno what to do, but I'm ready to push that thing into a lake.
View 1 RepliesI have an '04 Ranger Edge 3.0 with a severe coolant leak. It appears to be coming from the area where the head/water pump housing meet. I have been told I've lost the seal behind the pump on the timing cover. Is there any way to know for sure? Will I be able to tell, once the pump is out that it isn't coming from the head side? Are there any "special" instructions for re-sealing after replacing pump?
View 6 RepliesA few days ago I noticed some oil leaking from the left (front) valve cover area and I suspect it's the gasket. Fortunately, I didn't see any leaks from the back cover. It seemed like an easy job to replace the gasket, but as I started to disconnect the wiring, e.g., cam sensor, spark plugs, etc., I can't seem to find a way to remove the black plastic wiring harness 'housing' out of the way.
View 1 RepliesMy daughters 2004 f150 5.4 3v. 130k miles. Had a broken timing chain guide on passenger side. Changed phasers, solenoids, timing chains, crank gear, tensioners, and oil pump. Pulled pan and cleaned it and the pickup tube of pieces of the old guide. Engine had zero sludge. Very clean inside.
Put it all back together. Left crank sensor unplugged to rotate engine until it had good oil pressure which only took a few seconds. Plugged sensor back in. Truck started right up. Runs perfect. Drove perfect. Idles with no noise. But as soon as I rev it up a little, there is a HORRENDOUS squealing from the lower left of the engine. Pulled serpentine belt and squealing is still there. Used a stethoscope to determine its in the lower left behind the timing cover.
I haven't pulled the cover back off yet but what this could be? Everything went back together fine so I can't imagine what it is.
HOWEVER, I did notice that my new tensioners only had an oil hole in one of them. The two I removed both had an oil hole. So one of the new tensioners does not have an oil hole in the center of the plunger. I see online, that many did not come with an oil hole. But I'm wondering if this could be the source of the squealing? Maybe not oiling the chain enough and the squeal that I hear is the chain on the plastic guide?
I did a search but found nothing on a coolant leak. My 07 (57K) has developed a leak on the passengers side of the engine. Not sure if its the water pump (not making noise) or the themostat housing as a mechanic who took a very quick look at it suggested. How hard it is to get to the thermostat housing? Anything else have to come off? I don't have a FSM.
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